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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 09-12-2008, 05:57 PM   #21
ScoobyBoo
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OK, jbeurotech, you've made your point about testing prior to replacing. But, help me to understand how a hole in the breather line and/or loss of vacuum somehow in the breather line is going to cause a "PO444 - Purge Valve Circuit Open" fault code? An open circuit usually means a break in the continuity of the power/control wiring.

Have you come across situations when the PO444 fault code was caused by the loss of vacuum in the breather line?

Last edited by ScoobyBoo; 09-12-2008 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 09-12-2008, 06:17 PM   #22
jbeurotech
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Yes I have the computer in relatively stupid... It activates the valve and if it does not see the right flow it sometimes ASSumes the valve is electrically shorted, now MORE often than not that code is a dead giveaway to the vavle being faulty, if it test good with the outlined test I posted before then you should look elswhere. If everything elsewhere checks out then you may just have an intermittent short in the coil of the purge valve.
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:22 PM   #23
stolleee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbeurotech View Post
You have 8 posts on this board before condemning me ask others. I help alot of people here.
I can agree with this point which we should all not. Usually a service technician would not use a forum to help people rather than just referring them to a service center or stealership so you must be commended for that.

And I agree that one should NEVER just take a P code and use it to replace a part for any reason, upon research their is many instances which could be used as examples why this would be bad.

This forum is supposed to be used to ask questions related to problems so others who have experienced this same symptum can provide advice. It would then be each persons responsibility to decide which direction to take.

I will diagnose this issue in the am and try to determine which avenue to take. I am a little bummed that only the dealer offers the part if it needs to be replaced though was my only point in the earlier thread and hoped someone else had found another solution if it comes to part replacement.
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:02 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbeurotech View Post
Yes I have the computer in relatively stupid... It activates the valve and if it does not see the right flow it sometimes ASSumes the valve is electrically shorted, now MORE often than not that code is a dead giveaway to the vavle being faulty, if it test good with the outlined test I posted before then you should look elswhere. If everything elsewhere checks out then you may just have an intermittent short in the coil of the purge valve.
jbeurotech, thanks for your expert insight, feedback, and for tracking down your previous posts on the subject. I know the next time I get the purge valve fault codes to first test per your advice. I guess I was fortunate this time that it happened to be the purge valve and replacement resolved the fault code.
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Old 09-28-2008, 09:41 AM   #25
sergio
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ScoobyBoo, congrats on replacing your purge valve / breather valve on your E46 based on the P0444 code. I also had the same error and the best advice I got was from 2 certified BMW mechanics, was to not waste any time doing diagnostics on this part since the probability that the purge valve / breather valve is bad is over 85%.

When I posted this problem on this forum (1.5 years ago), there was not enough information on this, but the only advice I got was to test valve, which I was not familiar with and not interested in doing.

I have been driving with P0444 error for over 1yr and will replace breather valve soon. Thanks for instructions on how to proceed.

Take care...
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:28 PM   #26
ScoobyBoo
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Sergio, thanks. Just for your information...it took me about 1 hour. But, it was because it was my first time and I was planning, confirming my next steps, and doing things cautiously...maybe too cautiously (even with the very helpful feedback that received from the other people on this thread). I can see someone replacing it in 30 minutes [or less] who has done it before. Let me know if you have any further questions once you start getting into it.
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Old 11-15-2008, 07:42 PM   #27
sergio
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ScoobyBoo,

I finally had time this weekend to see my mech friend who does some BMW side work, and amazing, it took him 15min to replace part. He removed air filter housing, and pulled a few times, to remove the purge valve. It took him a total of 10min to do. Another 3min to reset check engine code. While he had air filter housing out, we also replaced day time running lights (H55??) on driver side.

He mentionned again, at BMW, noone has time to diagnose parts, they replace them. They diagnose only if problem still exists after replacement. For purge valve / breather valve, it seems to be a common problem for cars that have high mileage and 6+ years.

Nice to see no check engine light on my dash. It feels good in my head, but do not notice any difference on car performance. I probably was consuming more gas.

Take care...
Sergio

Last edited by sergio; 11-23-2008 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 06-23-2009, 10:13 PM   #28
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I have tried to disconnect the evap purge valve on my 2001 330i, but got stuck with the bottom hose, can't remove it. Bentley manual states "(2) release the bottom vent hose by pressing the locking bar and detaching". There is a plastic clip that seems to be holding the bottom hose connector in place, do I have to remove it? Do I simply pull the hose off the valve? I don't really want to break off anything...
Please help
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Old 07-11-2009, 06:05 PM   #29
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jbeurotech,

Just have a few questions and wanted your advice. I have a 2000 328i and was driving on the highway (twice) and all the sudden the engine would stall completely when shifting to neutral. I ran a diagnostic and two codes came up P1478 (EVAP Capillary Leak 0.5mm detected) and P0440 (Functional Check Purge Valve). Just wondering if one or both of these codes could cause my car to stall without warning. Also, 5 years ago I had a similar problem and the dealer replace the idle control valve. Can I eliminate the idle control valve from the list, since I didn't get a fault code for it?
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Old 07-12-2009, 06:11 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Busby View Post
Slide under the car, and look up, at the rear of the passenger side below the trunk and right below the fuel tank filler-neck where you add gasoline. There is a black plastic box, a little smaller than a shoe box. Unlatch the bottom-cover by sliding the little button-ears under the latches. Look for the solenoid, which will look like an iron core with a lot of copper wires wound around it. Unclip the solenoid and the wires. Pop off the front end of the solenoid, clean the o-ring with alcohol, and lightly regrease the o-ring with di-lectric grease or vasoline jelly. Re-install everything and clear the codes. This worked for me. My trouble code was something like "small leak at the evap purge valve." That was 50,000 miles ago and it has not returned.
Hi, I replaced the purge valve underneath the manifold as well as followed the instruction above about cleaning the o-ring but it's still throwing the code. Does anyone else have any idea why I'm still getting the error code? Any other parts or anything I should be check/testing? Thanks in advance...
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Old 07-12-2009, 06:15 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djdonis View Post
I have tried to disconnect the evap purge valve on my 2001 330i, but got stuck with the bottom hose, can't remove it. Bentley manual states "(2) release the bottom vent hose by pressing the locking bar and detaching". There is a plastic clip that seems to be holding the bottom hose connector in place, do I have to remove it? Do I simply pull the hose off the valve? I don't really want to break off anything...
Please help
Sorry, my previous response was incorrect. What I did was squeezed the clip with my hand as tight hard as I can without breaking. It took a couple of tries by it worked. Good luck!

Last edited by monkey330i; 07-17-2009 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 07-12-2009, 10:23 PM   #32
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Try to look through jbeurotech's extreme arrogance....you just might find some valuable information in his posts.
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:19 PM   #33
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All the M54 engines have this http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...&fg=15&lang=en (purge valve)?? Cause i can't find it in mine..
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Old 08-05-2010, 09:37 AM   #34
zaharias
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Originally Posted by zaharias View Post
All the M54 engines have this http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...&fg=15&lang=en (purge valve)?? Cause i can't find it in mine..
??????????????
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:49 AM   #35
84matthewd
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I know it's an old thread, but I fugured I'd put in mt two cents... I bought my 325I used with 87k and less than a week later my SES light came on. I went to a local Pep Boys or O'rileys or one of those auto part chains, and bought an ODB 2 scanner for about 125$. P0444 and i think p2444 were the codes I was throwing (MAF and EVAP PURGE). Natutally,I thought it was the end of the world!

Well I did a little research, and thanks to JBEUROTECH'S "test first" antics, I did just that. I had a Little trouble testing the lines that run to the valve itself, but only because it's kind of a tight fit, but when I found they were in good order, I went ahead and ordered the purge valve for like 95 bucks on eBay.

Once I got the valve in, and since I had already pulled it all apart and seen how it all went together, I felt I had a bit of an advantage having seen how the things the "whole deal works." Obviously the first thing I did I was to disconnect the negative battery terminal. Then I just just removed the airbox, and all the little odds, and ends and ducting to expose the EVAP PURGE or fuel breather valve.

Once I removed all the little fastening clips from the electrical connector and the fuel lines, I just pulled the faulty valve out. Next, I put a very light coat of petroleum jelly on the fuel valves in / out lines as well as on the lines themselves. I Then just pushed the new valve in it place, and put some dilectric grease on both the male and female electric connectors, and secured it all back in place.

After I had the part installed successfully, I cleaned up the airbox and put it all back together.
I reconnected the battery and re-scanned for any potential remaining fault codes, and found not a single one!

Even though this process has been dealt with before in this thread, I figured I'd throw my experience on here in the hopes that it may help someone else out there. Additionally, I believe the purge valve fault was thre reason I was geting the 02 sensor fault; although I can't wrap my head around why the two would overlap but hey, I'm not complaining.

Nonetheless, this is. an extremely easy job even for a novice. Not to mention, It requires only a couple of basic hand-tools, and less than 150$ + 2 or so hours of labor.
I do hope this post can help a fellow E46'er

Last edited by 84matthewd; 11-16-2010 at 07:02 PM. Reason: spelling errors GALORE
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Old 04-27-2011, 02:32 PM   #36
kore
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i just spent probably double that at an independent auto repair shop. but i needed the car for a cross country trip and didn't have a lot of time. next time, if there is one. i'll be doing it myself.
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:55 PM   #37
FMANALOPR
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thread revival! I'm struck trying to unplug the lower hose...I have pressed on the plastic clip to no avail.....Help!
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:17 PM   #38
Handle46
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Hey guys,

I found this cool diy on how to repair the EVAP purge valve. According to the diy, a faulty o-ring causes the malfunction. I am going to try this since I have the P0440 and now P0443 fault codes and since my smog check is in like 15 days. Plus my other incentive is I don't want to spend $100 bucks for this little dude(Note: I may have to if this diy does not work).

Lets revive this post, Good luck and post and new info!

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=31691
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:46 PM   #39
Ramm440
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Tank overflows after pump is removed

My question is my wife's car keeps gurgling fuel out after the pump has shut off and nozzle has been removed upon fill up. We remove the pump after it clicks off and do not top off. So is this purge/breather valve likely causing this?
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:33 AM   #40
yimingz
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After u replace the valve, does the engine light go off? I have the same code now,
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