DIY: Taking your headlight apart (excludes facelift coupes)

Originally Posted by Paulo82

Hello,
That is pretty much what I did when I updated my 323i with a set of 325ci/330ci xenons i bought on ebay for only $200, for the pair. Had to pull both apart to fit the xenon assemblies in my non-xenon housing, due to the coupe different to the sedan. Had to make a slight adjustment with the igniter not fitting in properly but all good. Took me awhile to figure it out, if only this was here when I did it.

Oh I put my black internals back in my headlight assembly, I'm not sure what colour the ones out of the coupe were, I'll have a look on the weekend.

However the problem I have is the when the headlights are off there is an error saying my headlights are blown in the insturment cluster, this is probably because the xenon ballast/igniter is acting like an open circuit when the headlights are switched off. I have heard that I can take it to a BMW dealer to fix the problem, but apparently I loose my insides lights for highbeam, and they are only then used for flashing. And the fact they will probably charge me more then enough to plug something in and press a couple of buttons. Or put something across it to make it look like a short when the headlights are off? I saw something on ebay once to fix the problem but missed it, now they never seem to be on there.

Also, they are bi-xenon headlights, which I'd like to connect up. Can I just wire a relay into the high beam circuit, like you would if you were connecting aftermarket spotlights to your car?

Also does anybody know where to buy the plugs from??? So it kinda looks like a factory install.

What you need is a reflash from the dealer or an indy shop with a GT1 or newer diagnostic machine. You will not lose your high beams as your car is a 323i, bixenon's were not available that year. You can also do the capacitor mod, but i don't like to recommend it as I consider it a hack mod.

for the connectors, you can find the part number off www.realoem.com, and then get it from your dealer. simply just splice the respective +/- wires with the high beam wires and that will activate the bixenon shutters. No relay is needed, unless you want to.

Originally Posted by amar325ci

To all you guru's out there
I am fairly new to modding. I have a 2001 325 ci with stock lights. I want to put a hid kit with projector headlights. Once I get the HID kit and the projector assembly, is there anything else I need so that I don't get all kinds of orange lights on my dash?

Yes you need an LCM reflash. I have a pair of m3 bixenon headlights for sale if you're interested

In order to to remove the plastic retainer clip which connects to the autoleveling arm, I found it easier to remove the black plastic trim in between the lights. Once that's removed, you have access to the back side of the plastic retainer clip, allowing you to compress it and pop it out. I slightly damaged my retainer clip in my first attempts to pop it out from inside the headlight. The dealer didn't see it as a replaceable part, but one of the other parts guys handed me one and said he saves them when the techs do warranty work on headlights - I guess it's manditory that they replace that piece when they're doing warranty work on headlights. On the drivers side (light in which I replaced the igniter) autoleveling used to start the beam low and then level when I turned on my headlights. My headlight now starts high then goes to level, my guess is the retainer clip is upside down - can anyone confirm that would be the cause?

there's actually many different methods. most likely taking it out won't break. but when you put it in, that there were everyone breaks it. i've done it a couple of times, but i have a lot of spares to take it from. i've been meaning to update this thread. i guess i'll update it now.

Originally Posted by Dantuan1

In order to to remove the plastic retainer clip which connects to the autoleveling arm, I found it easier to remove the black plastic trim in between the lights. Once that's removed, you have access to the back side of the plastic retainer clip, allowing you to compress it and pop it out. I slightly damaged my retainer clip in my first attempts to pop it out from inside the headlight. The dealer didn't see it as a replaceable part, but one of the other parts guys handed me one and said he saves them when the techs do warranty work on headlights - I guess it's manditory that they replace that piece when they're doing warranty work on headlights. On the drivers side (light in which I replaced the igniter) autoleveling used to start the beam low and then level when I turned on my headlights. My headlight now starts high then goes to level, my guess is the retainer clip is upside down - can anyone confirm that would be the cause?

that clip doesn't affect anything no matter which way it's pushed in. i'm guessing maybe you could have manually leveled it wrong the first time and had it too high? i haven't run into that problem really.

either that, or you did something wrong and wedged something on the bottom of the bowls so that the arm couldn't move down, senses that, and then go to move up.

Great information. I think my igniter is failing and I may have to replace it.

While I'm in there, I would like to open up the hole for the city lights. I've brought the car to Italy and were supposed to use these. The local shop can flash the LCM to enable them and run the wires, but they are not sure how to drill out the plug. I'm up to try it. Any advice?

Originally Posted by Massimiliano

Great information. I think my igniter is failing and I may have to replace it.

While I'm in there, I would like to open up the hole for the city lights. I've brought the car to Italy and were supposed to use these. The local shop can flash the LCM to enable them and run the wires, but they are not sure how to drill out the plug. I'm up to try it. Any advice?

there is already a hole for the city lights. on the back of the headlight, you will see the circular outline of where the city lights should go (if you're looking from the back, look at the high beams and its on the upper right). that's where you want to drill out a hole. make sure you drill out just big enough for the bulb holder.

for the bulb holder, just look for a 194 bulb holder, and that will work. good luck.

Thanks, I picked up the bulb holder and connecter from the local BMW shop. Is the structure for holding the bulb molded inside there with just a cap over the top? I don't want to have a loose fit and get water in there. Ciao.

nah, the bulb holder itself holds the bulbs and also acts as it's own seal for the headlight

Nice DIY man. Thanks

Many thanks for this write-up! Just today I received my Xenons and one had a loose/broken auto-leveler bracket which is causing the lamps to rattle up and down and may affect aiming. Now I can try to fix!

Do you know if the main black plastic body of this headlamp is the same between Xenon and regular?
Car is 2003 Touring. That way I could cannibalize my non-Xenons to make a perfect set.

are you talking about the small white clip that everyone breaks? lol if so, then no. the halogens have a black one which is smaller than the xenon ones (which uses a bigger white one). but you can certainly take the black one and glue it in there to make it work

^ this only applies to facelifted sedans/wagons for those that are reading it. for prefacelift headlights, the clips are the same.

Damn.

Is that part available from the dealer? What are my options if it's not to stop the looseness?
Or if I fix it down rigid will that affect aiming?

My car does not have auto aiming but does have manual.

Also, flashing the LKM to 'accept' Xenons and stopping the warning lights, I thought the only proper way to fix that is to use a new headlamp switch which has the capacitor built-in. It's what BMW ask you to buy also when buying Xenons.

well you can ask the techs, but the dealer does not sell that part. you can try going to a junk yard and grabbing them. i would help you, but i already gave like a few of those away to other fanatics that asked.

Finding a set of Xenons in a junkyard is going to be... how can I day... IMPOSSIBLE.

So if I lock it down somehow you think it will affect aiming?

I only need 1 man!

lol. well i'm waiting for this other dude to give me one, then i'll have one extra. but don't hold your breath on it though lol

well, you don't really need to find a set of xenons. you can look for a set of OEM halogens for pre-facelift cars. those will work as well. it's just the facelifted sedan ones that don't work.

Dude - your PM box is full - I emailed you.

Yea it's always full lol. I just cleared it. Will check your email later

Originally Posted by sillieidiot

What you need is a reflash from the dealer or an indy shop with a GT1 or newer diagnostic machine. You will not lose your high beams as your car is a 323i, bixenon's were not available that year. You can also do the capacitor mod, but i don't like to recommend it as I consider it a hack mod.

Are you saying that you don't need the capacitor adapters to stop the warning signal on your dash, that your dealer can flash the LKM to tell it that Xenons are now fitted?

yes. that is what you're supposed to do in the first place. the capacitor is just a band aid mod to make it act the same for cheaper