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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 02-03-2009, 04:24 PM   #21
copracr
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brunswick, OH
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My Ride: 02 325i
and the results:

My findings are as follows:
at startup the voltage climbs from ~ .100 V to ~ .425V . It stays at ~.425V untill operating temp is reached.
Once its up to operating temp the voltage climbs to .825V slowly over about 1 minute. It hovered around that for about 10 minutes.
Then i decided to high idle it for about 5 minutes @ 2400rpm to make sure everything was heated up.
Still it hung at around.8V
Then i propped up the multimeter in the door to see what it did under different conditions.
I goosed the throttle and the voltage dropped to under .1V and climbed back up to .750V
I tried raising the throttle at different rates and letting it return to idle at different rates. On the acceleration side it always drops and on the decel it returns to .4-.8 after 10 seconds or less.

So, you definetly have your voltage out of range at .1-.3

Also, as far as I know (my euro car experience is limited) american and jap cars that are obd2 all have the same voltage range so a standard obd2 mil eliminator should work at least somewhat.

Last edited by copracr; 02-03-2009 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:17 PM   #22
F1004fun
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Were you using a labscope to check to voltage or just a regular voltmeter, cause you wont be able to see the sweep on a graph. And I didn't say that the voltage I got was reving my car in the driveway, this was datalogged and I noticed that randomly the DME would run the mixture just a little lean at a steady cruise when it starts to run it OBDII self tests, after talking to some tuners I learned this was normal to test the cats.
This is why the O2 sensors foolers, foulers, simulators, etc. DON"T WORK!!! The DME knows how to check the actual oxygen saturated of the cat. Now honestly that last part I don't know for sure but one fellow was insistent I understand this.

Guys I work on these cars all day long and I have tried all sorts of the gizmos and gadgets, I fix problems that customers gizmos and gadgets crause, I fix problems my damn gizmos and gadgets cause. After trying it all the only thing that I have found to truly keep the check engine light out when not running cats is the Innovate LC-1 wired into the rear O2 signals. When you get that let me know and I'll share the voltage curve that I finally got to work and actually got the monitors to pass.
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:25 PM   #23
copracr
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f1004fun, i was using a fluke multimeter. i know what you e refering to but it has always updated fast enough to see primary o2 switching, so it should be ok on the slower switchin cat monitors.

that bein said, i believe you r right about that test. mil eliminators will keep the ses light off for a while though and if you time it right you can pass an echeck.

whats the cost on one of those lc1s?
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:33 PM   #24
F1004fun
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Shop around an little but about $250, I get most of my stuff at tuner tools.com they have pretty goods deals. You need a laptop to run the program and change to output curve.
Whats an echeck? In Cali. we need like 5 outta 7 monitors past and pass on emissions. After doing all this I still ended up making a set cats on a removable section of exhaust for smog and cause my inner tree hugger kinda felt bad about mashing around with no cats.
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Old 02-04-2009, 09:10 PM   #25
copracr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F1004fun View Post
Shop around an little but about $250, I get most of my stuff at tuner tools.com they have pretty goods deals. You need a laptop to run the program and change to output curve.
Whats an echeck? In Cali. we need like 5 outta 7 monitors past and pass on emissions. After doing all this I still ended up making a set cats on a removable section of exhaust for smog and cause my inner tree hugger kinda felt bad about mashing around with no cats.
Ohio has echeck, they plug thier scan tool in to your obd2 port and then tell you if you pass. I'm not sure exactly what they do, but if you have a check engine light then you fail. I put mil eliminators on my 99 mustang gt that had a 5.4L and an off road h-pipe and i still passed. My check engine light still came on every month or two so i cleared all my codes, drove for about 3 weeks and then went and got my echeck.
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Old 02-09-2009, 10:53 PM   #26
iaknown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F1004fun View Post
That's strange, I think we both have the same engine managment MS43, but either way the bypass resistor will work, Radio Shack 50 ohm 10 watt cerammic block resistor.
This is really driving me crazy now...had 10 ohm resistors cuz that's what my O2 heaters measured, was running great for a while then I started getting heater circuit codes. I went to the Radio Shack 50 ohm 10 watts and same thing. What the heck.....you guys ever hear of the TSB for certain O2 codes? I had an '01 330xi and couldn't get an O2 code off, found the TSB which required DME reprogramming, brought it in for them to reflash and it was fixed. I dunno if it included the heater circuit codes or not though...I want to drive my car into a tree ....
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:17 AM   #27
F1004fun
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There is a software update for various 02 sensor faults, that sounds like whats wrong. You do have a resistor for each O2 heater right, just checking.
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Old 02-28-2009, 11:56 PM   #28
iaknown
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Yup, you're right, had to bring it to the stealership to have the DME software updated, O2 heater codes are now gone. My last car, a 2001 330xi, had the same exact problem.
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