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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need! |
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#41 | |
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Registered User
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Update on my AC problem
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Regarding the "auto" function, I'm an idiot. I've had the car for four years and had completely forgotten what it meant. It is the function for the windshield, face, feet blowers. It is working perfectly as it should. Lesson learned. AC blowing warmer on passenger side -> low on freon. Now I hope it won't happen again (soon anyway) which would point to a leak somewhere... bad thing. |
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#42 | |
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Rolling on Dubs. Got Boost?
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: EP East Director - PA
Posts: 4,419
My Ride: AA SC Y2K 323i
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Quote:
TIA, Charlie |
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#43 |
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Registered User
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i had the same problem but my driver side was colder than my passenger side vents. try evac/recharging the system. that did it for me.
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#44 |
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Registered User
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Ivanfuzz, How did this work out? Was it an easy fix? I am experiencing same thing. AC works fine when car is cool. Once I've parked and it sits in the sun for a while, I get warm air from center vent and warm-to-cool air from side vents.
BMW is telling me they'll rebuild the entire system for $1600 (charged me $200 for diagnositics and a recharge) because they don't know what's wrong. Took it to another BMW mechanic, he recharged and added to hose ends/clamps, hoping that would fix. Another $150. Problem is that it doesn't "act" up all the time, so nobody can put their finger on it. The heater valve sounds most likely. Not sure why the "geniuses" can't figure that out. Anyone else have any comments or suggestions? |
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#45 |
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Registered User
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im having the same problem with mines just earlier, cold air on the driver's side, and warm on the passenger side. and reading the replies, im hoping that it just needs to be recharged.
but, did you guys who had the same problem heard some hissing sound when the blower is on? and when i turn it off, the hissing sound is gone. |
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#46 |
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Registered User
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problem fixed! just needed a recharge.thanks!
__________________
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#47 |
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Registered User
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I am new to the forum but have owned my 330d (2000reg) for a couple of years. Just recently, following an inlet manifold removal and heating outlet manifold renewal, my heating system was constantly blowing warm no matter what temperature I had set. I removed the water valve (mine has the additional water heater) and found a piece of plastic preventing the valve from closing. This was removed and the valve appeared to work fine for a few hours at which point the same thing had happened. I removed the valve and this time stripped it down. The source of the plastic bits was the "additional water pump for the auxiliary heater" which had stripped all four vanes of the pump and these were blocking the water valve. I have flushed the system but am assuming that two of the vanes are still circulating so will wait a few days before fitting the new valve just in case the bits are still circulating and might damage the new one!
Hope this might point some people the right way. Does anybody know whether you can bypass the auxiliary heater and just use a single valve? Tony |
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#48 |
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Rolling on Dubs. Got Boost?
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: EP East Director - PA
Posts: 4,419
My Ride: AA SC Y2K 323i
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My AC problem has been fix by Sun BMW dealer locally here. Since I had try to trouble shoot most of what I can on my own, the only thing left was let the pro look at it. They were just that, found the problem to be one of my stepper motor went bad out of the 5 in the dash. They took the dash out and also notice that the center control dial didn't turn the flap correctly to give the right air flow. They made adjustment and its all good now just in time for summer temperature.
Charlie |
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#49 |
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Registered User
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Ive learned working on many E46s.
When you have different outlet temps from each vent its either. low charge of freon bad water valve Most common leaks. Evaporator Line from compressor to firewall |
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#50 |
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Registered User
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Hi, I've been following this forum for years but this is the first time I post. I have an intermittent problem with my AC, which sometimes blows hot air out of the upper left corner of the center vents, along with cold air, while the side vents blow out cool air. If I close the center vents, the side vents will now blow lukewarm air. If I close all upper vents, the footwell will blow out really hot air.
Here's the intermittent part: The AC always work fine in the first drive of the day. It doesn't matter how hot the weather is. Usually the problem occurs when I make multiple driving trips - one stop after another - say when you drive around town running errands. If my car has been parked for more than an hour or two, the problem usually goes away when I drive again. Have taken it to dealership twice. Of course they didn't find anything wrong; no leaking and they recharged the system. The blower control (auto or manual mode) and temperature sensors seem working fine. So I suppose it's not the final stage resistor or sensor issues. And just in case anybody asks, my center vent dial is set to 3 blue dots and my thermostat is set to 68F (and I live in warm climate). Could it be the water valve or steppar motors? I'd appreciate any input and advice on what to look into. Thanks very much! |
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#51 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Thanks !
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#52 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Next my mechanic (who is a friend) vaccumed the freon, added a sealant to the system and then fully charged the system. This brought the AC back alive with kicking cold air. But then I discovered that I was back where I started. It would blow cold, but if I stopped the car for a couple of minutes I would start getting the warm air just as you describe. My next step is going to be the heater control valve. I'm hoping it's not one of the flap motors or anything like that. Last edited by mtyson227; 06-02-2009 at 08:54 AM. |
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#53 |
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Registered User
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mtyson227, it's good to get to know somebody who's also trying to solve the same mystery problem.
please let me know how it turns out with the heater control valve. I haven't had a chance to do that test that others described by pinching the water line. It doesn't seem easy to reach down to where the pipes are. And I suppose the test has to be done while only when the AC is malfunctioning. Good luck with your next steps with the heater control valve. I too hope it's not the flap motors inside the dash! |
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#54 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
What would happen if I bypassed the HVAC? I just called my local dealer for that part, (not in stock)and they said it would take a couple of days. |
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#55 |
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Registered User
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Nothing yet huh?
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#56 |
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Registered User
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im having the same issue... im going to order the valve this weekend from tischer!
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#57 |
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Registered User
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lafabritto325ci, I would appreciate it if you can let me know if your new heater valve solves the problem. thanks and good luck with the repair.
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#58 |
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Registered User
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thanks. ill post up as soon as i get the part...
__________________
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#59 |
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Registered User
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I also have a problem with my AC. Seems to blow hot whenever I first and drive the car. After I stop and turn the car off for a while, when I turn it on, AC blows cold again. Does this sound like the water valve? Thinking of just replacing it. I had the system tested and charged up about a month ago. Thanks guys!
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#60 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
As for water valves.....a failed water valve will typically cause hot air to blow out of the footwell vents or the defrost vents......when the AC is on. The water valve is sprung open, and is powered closed. This is in case of failure during winter, you will still have heat.
__________________
YOU BOUGHT A BMW, IF YOU CANT AFFORD TO MAINTAIN IT............SELL IT.
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