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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 06-27-2008, 02:04 AM   #181
kpeng
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good job ken... Now that I've bought my 3.46, I might have some questions for you later on
Fire away
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:59 PM   #182
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Fire away
here it is: what is the correct torque spec on the input flange nut?
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Old 06-30-2008, 05:13 PM   #183
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here it is: what is the correct torque spec on the input flange nut?
If it's a U-joint (62.7 ft/lbs), if it's a CV Joint (51.6 ft/lbs)
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Old 06-30-2008, 05:58 PM   #184
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If it's a U-joint (62.7 ft/lbs), if it's a CV Joint (51.6 ft/lbs)
Sorry I should've been more specific. I am not talking about the 4 (U-type) or the 6 (CV-type) bolts. I am talking about the single nut that goes right in the middle of the input flange, which needs to be removed for the flange-swap. But since your new drive shaft solved this problem (eliminating the need to swap the input flange), you didn't touch that nut.
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Old 06-30-2008, 06:04 PM   #185
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Ah, I got ya.

I have several listings here for that.

If the nut is black, it's 73.8 ft/lbs.

If it's silver, it's 59 ft/lbs.
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Old 06-30-2008, 06:32 PM   #186
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You sure about that? Those are "very" tight torque specs, and according to Alex323Ci it should be very light as well. I found a number online for an e36 and it says 15-20 inoz, just enough to crush the securing plate.. don't see why this should be that different on an e46.. Here is the quote for the e36 from bf.c, with the relevant part bolded:

Quote:
Actually, IF you're using the stock gearset and housing, its quite straightforward. I just finished rebuilding mine and putting it back in the car last weekend. I could rebuild it in a few hours no problem.

The carrier is pretty simple. Take everything a part and lay it out in order paying attention to what face faces which way. There is a good writeup w/ pics on r3vlimited.com. I replaced the clutches w/ the ones from bimmerworld. Clean everything and rebuilt it like how it was w/ the new clutches. You should also flip the dogged washers that the clutches rub on to provide a fresh surface.

Note, its probably easier/smarter to replace the output bearings before you rebuild the carrier.

I got the output bearings off w/ a gear puller. All the races in the housing and tranny sides can be tapped out w/ a hammer and tap. Always tap the new races in by tapping the old race against the new one to prevent damaging the new race.

You'll need a press to press the pinion bearings on/off. There is a shim behind the inner bearing race. This is important and goes w/ your housing, don't forget it. Its what sets the pinion depth. Press the inner pinion bearing on and put it in the housing from the inside. don't forget the crush sleeve. Then you gotta sort of hold it as you start the outter bearing by tapping it. Then you'll need to press it on until it snugs up against the crush washer. Then you put the input flange on and the nut and slowly torque down on the nut to crush the crush sleeve until you get the correct drag torque and/or feel. spec is around 15-20inoz. I crushed the sleeve until i got around 16inoz of drag and an experienced friend agreed that it felt right. Note, you do this without the input seal first because the seal creates a lot of drag when new. So do this all to crush the washer, then take the nut and flange off, tap in the seal, and put the flange and nut back on.

Then you put the carrier in. Slap on the tranny sides (don't forget the shims) and you're rolling.

Really, its not hard and costs under $250 in parts for all new clutches, bearings, seals, etc.
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Old 06-30-2008, 06:38 PM   #187
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Yeah, it does seem low huh? I actually had to remove it because I had the CV joint, and I needed to swap the U-joint on there. We needed an air tool to get it off. I don't know, I'm just going off what was written on the Bimmertols Torque Spec sheet I had. Maybe I read it wrong.
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Old 06-30-2008, 06:46 PM   #188
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Ok, I'll do a little bit more research on that
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Old 06-30-2008, 09:46 PM   #189
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that nut your talking about, if its the pinion lash, you have to set that right. my friends jeep had a too lose front diff lash and it sucked the pinion in enough to jam the gears and lock his front tires on the freeway.

you want the tips of the gears to mesh, use crisco, or paint, and tighten it accordingly. i don't know if thats able to be done on a bimmer, but works on trucks
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Old 10-12-2008, 06:33 PM   #190
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How much did your gas millage dropped after the diff. install?? I use my 325ci as a commuter and I would love faster pick up but I dont wanna sacrifice my mpg too much....
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Old 10-12-2008, 07:17 PM   #191
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How much did your gas millage dropped after the diff. install?? I use my 325ci as a commuter and I would love faster pick up but I dont wanna sacrifice my mpg too much....
Haven't really noticed that much of a difference at all. I do mostly city driving, and my cruising RPM at 45 mph went up probably like 400 RPM.
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Old 04-20-2009, 04:49 PM   #192
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Hi, interesting.
What is the "computer restet trick" ?

I have a 328 CI steptronic whith a 3.07 diff, just bought a 3.23 and going to install it tomorow, that could help me.

Thanks
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:12 AM   #193
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turn the key to the first position, wait 10 secs, turn it off, wait 10 secs, then start car.

i think
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:50 PM   #194
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Talking

I am wondering since the 4th gear is so long,.. and your highway mileage increased,... I wonder if you can get away with the X3 3.0si Auto diff at 4.44??

Might be nasty in gears 1-3 and better in 4 with manageable RPM in 5th

I am speculating because the gear/mph calcs on the web must not be right. If you look at the video and the bimmerworld.com gear/mph calc they are off by 10mph in 4th.

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Old 05-06-2009, 09:26 PM   #195
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4.44 might be just a TAD overkill.
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Old 05-07-2009, 08:41 AM   #196
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LOL,.. true,.. did a little math and it is way overkill,.

I was thinking about the "long" 4th gear though and it doesnt make sense,.... all you changed was the final drive 1-5 are the same gears,... ratio wise 4th should be any different than it was prior to the diff change. I am thinking that it is just perception. The first 3 just pull so nice that when you come back down to earth in 4th gear it just seems long,...

What is your shift MPH out of 4th?
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:41 AM   #197
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:45 AM   #198
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:45 AM   #199
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lol
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:51 AM   #200
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