2003 330CI Won't Start, but turns over

Hi all, thanks for any comments.

I got up this morning, after putting my car in the garage last night and it will not start...I hit the forums and began my research and here's what I know thus far:

1) Car will turn over fine and continuously but will not fire
- This rules out battery, alternator, etc.

2) I immediately thought fuel pump and went to work diagnosing
- I removed the back bench and verified that the fuel pump can be head once the ignition is turned on
- I further verified that the fuel rail was getting fuel by doing a pressure test...50 psi...this will noe rule out Fuel Pump, fuses, relays, & filter...right?

3) I should of mentioned this first...no error codes were given...I scanned it with my PEAK just to be sure but it is clean.

4) I now suspect that is may be the Crankshaft Speed Sensor, preventing the engine from starting...is this logical? How can I verify that it is in fact this sensor?

5) I ruled our either of the Camshaft Position Sensors because the car will not start...I believe that the car would run rough it one/both of those sensors was bad.

6) Is there anything I am overlooking?

Any help/comments are appreciated.

Hey all, now I'm a bit concerned...do you think it could be the ECM??

Bump...

well id advise testing the battery before deeming it good. sometimes battery has enough juice to turn the engine but not let it fire. an easy way to also check if its not the ignition side, get some starter spray (the ones with alcohol) spray into the intake and crank the engine if you can hear it firing then you elimintated the sensors and igition. if you dont get any life out of it it maybe a sensor or fuel. i believe the cam shaft sensor produces square wave dc signal. if you have a multimeter or a volt meter and measure the sensor you should get a high of 5 and a low of 0. but its hard to see it on a meter you may need an occiliscope. ifrogot the technical name for that sensor i need to refrsh my memory

Battery measures 12.4 VDC and drops to 10.6 VDC when the car is cranking...I believe this is normal??

Have been away and not working on the car but will verify the ignition tomorrow.

Fuel Relay Switch?

I heard the horn relay switch is the same part number so maybe you can easily swap the parts and see is that fixes your problem

Isn't the Fuel Relay before the pump? I have measured 50psi of fuel at the fuel rail, right before the injectors.

not to point out the obvious, but is there gas in the tank?

Originally Posted by EIAlfonso

Fuel Relay Switch?

I heard the horn relay switch is the same part number so maybe you can easily swap the parts and see is that fixes your problem

^^^^

Originally Posted by Mecemoose

Isn't the Fuel Relay before the pump? I have measured 50psi of fuel at the fuel rail, right before the injectors.

Not necessarily

Go to realoem.com and find out where it is.

My guess is under the hood next to fuses.

It doesn't costs anything to try and your car could be running in 5 mins.

what was the issue? did you get this problem solved?

no I have not solved my problem.

The car is running rich and idles like crap. Cycles between 1000 and 1500 rpm and in limp mode. I've recently replaced the oil separator and associated hoses and also replaced the oil filter housing gasket. So I had everything off the left side of the engine, but dont see any connectors that are wrong. I've looked around and seen some issues with people leaving the cam position sensor disconnected - but not sure what connector that is. It looks to me like all the connectors are made up properly.

Driving me crazy!!

I pulled the ICV and cleaned it. I had the throttle body off, so wonder if there is an issue with it. I just cleared all the codes, but now P1503 is pending.

I have no vacuum leaks, and I've double checked all the connections on the wiring harness.

So now I'm thinking

1. Issue with the idle control valve (looks fine and getting power and not stuck - so dont think so)
2. Issue with the throttle body - not sure why it would be a problem, looked fine when I had it off
3. Issue with the DISA - flapper is not very tight, but seems to be working okay - and dont think it would cause my problem
4. Bad throttle wiring harness - I hope not.

Seems like it is just dumping gas into the engine. Engine rpm cycles after you tap the gas and will not stop until I shut it off.

Any help much appreciated!!

the car is giving me the EML light, yellow brake light on the dash and the DSC light (traction control) - I belive this indicates limp mode? When I replced my plugs they were badly fouled from too much fuel. Any help much appreciated.

maybe something to do with the VANOS or cam sensors?