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E46 clutch lifetime, how long did yours last? symtpoms of dying...

81K views 145 replies 90 participants last post by  Landlorder 
#1 ·
How long have your factory clutch last on your E46? I have about 120K on it, 70% highway, 30% city. What are some symptoms of a dying clutch?
thanks.
 
#3 ·
slipping, burning smell, shaking from the worn out springs in dual mass flywheel, etc.

clutch wear has everything to do with use to abuse ratio and engagement vs non-engagement. if you do like you said 70% highways then you're not really taking it out of gear much. so that 120K is understandable.
 
#4 ·
There are two common clutch failure modes: disc wear and throwout bearing failure. Sometimes the pressure plate fails, but that's only when it's abused by major slippage and overheating, which causes the springs to lose their temper.

Disc wear causes less "grab". The clutch is self-adjusting, so you won't really know it's gone until it's gone. Frankly, if you're a good driver, and most of your miles are on the highway, this probably won't happen until 150-200k. Or longer. Just remember: the clutch is either up or down; not in between.

Throwout bearing failure seems to happen more often. This is characterized by a grinding noise and feel (in the clutch pedal) when the clutch is depressed. Happened in my e36 at 145k. (The disc looked fantastic in that car at the time.) BMWs seem to like to toast their throwout bearings, but you can help by not sitting with the clutch down for any longer than you need to. Be sure to put it into neutral at red lights and keep your friggin foot away from the clutch pedal.

We could discuss the pilot bearing, but since I've never seen one fail, we'll save it for another time.

Hope this helps.
 
#9 ·
Throwout bearing failure seems to happen more often..
I can't speak to E46s, as I've never heard one fail on an E46, but I had a throwout bearing fail on my Z, and it was a whirring sound that only appeared when the motor was wound and the clutch was depressed, ie changing gears. I had people asking me all the time if it was a turbo, and I had to explain that sadly no, the sound was from a mechanical failure.

Loved the sound, I didn't want to fix it!!!
 
#12 ·
thank you for all the info. Although 70% highway, but it's often stop and go stop and go...
I havne't noticed anything abnormal about the rpm needle. After shifting into a gear, sometimes when I accelerate, it kind of not wanting to go, just spinning/slipping is how I would describe it. It isn't a clutch issue right? Since shifting has no problem, it acts up after the car is in gear.
The mpg needle does swing quicker and stay longer on the right side, may be it is just in my mind....
 
#19 ·
Mine is slipping pretty bad now with around 95K. Started off that if I accelerated hard when taking off or trying to pass on the highway, the RPMS would jump up but it just wouldn't catch for a minute. Ordered a new UUC lightweight flywheel/clutch, can't wait to get it installed.
 
#20 ·
yea my clutch makes a funny noise from first to second during hard driving. how much would it cost for a mechanic to replace it for you if you provide the part?
 
#22 ·
My father passed down his 1999 328i to me recently and hes in search for a new car. He bought the 328i with around 70,000 miles and now it has close to 130,000 miles. Since driving the car ive noticed that sometimes its hard to put it into gear (any gear). For example, i shift from 2nd to 3rd and its hard to put it in 3rd. Also, sometimes ill shift and it wont stay in gear but instead will come back to neutral. One last thing, sometimes in 1st gear ill slowly let out the clutch and it will suddenly rev high (clutch slipping?). Seems pretty obvious, but do i need a new clutch?
 
#26 ·
+1 it really is dead easy, but i did do it at a local friendly garage who let me use their car ramp. Just remember to open the fill bolt first. The bolts can be difficult to get off, so a long breaker bar (if thats what you guys state side call them) gets them off easy as it gives you better leverage. And while your there you could do the diff oil as well.

2 quarts of Redline D4 ATF for manual transmission, and 2 quarts Redline 75W-90 NS for the diff is what i used for a 330. Royal purple also good, or you could just head down to the dealer and pick up the fluids from them.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Are you driving miss daisy?!! ;)

It sounds to me like a Master cylinder rather then a clutch. If you havent looked at it in a while or at all, I recommend you do.
Master cylinders go out way more frequently then clutches do.
But i had the clutch changed and all has been fine since. :confused:
 
#31 ·
160k on mine, but i think the dmf pos is gettin about shot. kinda clunky at low speeds like backing up and such. i hate dmf. at least thats what i hope it is and not the trans lol. course i have never changed the fluid since i got it w/ 123k but its next on the to-do list.
 
#40 ·
awesome:thumbsup:. i call them chatter plates instead of floater plates lol.
 
#42 · (Edited)
Symptoms of dying DMF?

Got a 2001 330i which I love and adore. 85 000 Km (= about 53 700 Miles) on it, so not bad!
When in idle, if I depress the clutch, there's a distinct rattling/vibration just an inch or so from the floor.
When starting from a standstill, I really need to work the clutch, otherwise the car tends to stall or jump, as if it's not quite catching the power - I can't really "blast off" but have to ease off the clutch until I get some speed. This only applies to first gear though.
I sometimes get RPMs oscillating up and down, especially when in reverse, sometimes in idle.

Have tried to figure out what's causing this for a year, recently my shop had a new idea: Replacing the DMF + Clutch. It's a bit costly, so I just want to make sure that this is the most likely cause? Thanks in advance folks!
 
#43 ·
How long have you had the car and how long have you been driving a manual?

I have 236 miles on my original clutch.

Something about the way you described your issue makes me think you're holding the clutch at the engagement point and giving it gas slowly so it doesn't stall...and that itself tells me that you should probably give it just a tad more gas and lift up clutch pedal sooner. Don't linger on the clutch.

Rattling like you describe sort of sounds like throwout bearing...but it could just be the clutch...maybe yours was replaced with a lightweight one by PO who wanted to drag race the car or something?

My guess, though, is that you need to get used to the clutch a bit more. No insult intended, btw. I've been driving manuals for almost 40 years, so I think everyone needs more practice! LOL

HTH

Got a 2001 330i which I love and adore. 85 000 Km (= about 53 700 Miles) on it, so not bad!
When in idle, if I depress the clutch, there's a distinct rattling/vibration just an inch or so from the floor.
When starting from a standstill, I really need to work the clutch, otherwise the car tends to stall or jump, as if it's not quite catching the power - I can't really "blast off" but have to ease off the clutch until I get some speed. This only applies to first gear though.
I sometimes get RPMs oscillating up and down, especially when in reverse, sometimes in idle.

Have tried to figure out what's causing this for a year, recently my shop had a new idea: Replacing the DMF + Clutch. It's a bit costly, so I just want to make sure that this is the most likely cause? Thanks in advance folks!
 
#45 ·
Hmmm? The only other thing I can suggest is you read up on 'bedding the clutch.'

Chatter when clutch pedal is down sounds like throwout bearing to me...and I'm not sure how long it could rattle, but I'd suspect a long time.

Me? I'd probably monitor it closely, try bedding, and hope for the best while being prepared for the worst. I'm not a mechanic, so just know what I know...mostly...from reading here and paying attention in my buddy's shop.
 
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