The title states it. I have cleaned my throttle body, ICV, replaced intake boots and cleaned, changed spark plugs. The dealership said the reason this was last time was because I had a bad valve cover. So I spent $500 on that replacement and it was great for months. Now it's doing it again.
I am drumming a huge youth retreat 2 hours away and had to pull over "12" times because the car wouldn't let me go over 45 mph! So I turn the car off and on again. The cel stays on but the eml and traction lights are off. Every stop sign I approach, the lights comes back!
I know there are multiple threads on this. But I am wondering if maybe y throttle body is done for or my icv.
Just because you touch something does not mean it will be cured. They say Jesus fixed stuff that way, but I don't recall anybody else doing that. I sometimes fix stuff and have no clue what I did, but if something does not work and it still does not work after I fix it, then my assumption is that I did not fix it. I don't carry on as if there is something else wrong, I assume the same thing is still wrong, ESPECIALLY when the car is telling me the same thing is not working.
If the car insists that the ICV is stuck, then it's a pretty safe bet that the ICV is stuck.
Well two days later after not driving the car. I drive it today 2 hours home, no issue until the road stretch to my home the same thing happened again. So everything must be good except the computer or sensor. Ideas?
Replace the ICV rather than clean it. Also, when you cleaned it, what did you clean it with? You should have used something that also lubricates the part as well. Seafoam Deep Creep does this.
The DISA isn't the problem. Either you need to replace your throttle body or your ICV. My 323 did the exact same thing the week after I bought it and I cleaned the throttle body and it hasn't ever come back. I also cleaned the ICV at the same time too and the car was much nicer to drive.
I guess why I struggle to believe if either are bad is because one day I'll drive and no problem. And a week later the problem comes for a day a then stops for a while. It's random times.
Mine also did that. Cut the car off and it was fine and drove for a few hours with no problems. Next day it was back on and I couldn't go above 2k RPM's and 50MPH.
Exactly what I am experiencing. Do you know if seafoam is safe to clean electrical connections? It looks like my connection and input on my disa valve is Brown inside.
Idle problems typically point to vacuum leaks, which means anything connected between the MAF and the cylinder head. That's a lot of ground to cover on these cars. Jfoj has the best thread on this, and I know you've seen it. Have you looked at everything he covers? The fact that your problem comes and goes can help you pinpoint it. Notice the conditions when it happens. Is the car warm or cold? Is the weather warm or cold? Does it only happen at idle? You get the picture. If you can correlate a situation that exists every time you have this problem, you are close to solving the problem.
So after I replaced my O-ring, I completely forgot to plug in the small hose that plugs into the intake boot, and I just realized it today as I opened my hood while I was having a rough idle. I hope that may end this!
So obviously the problem still hasn't Went away, no lights are coming up, but when I Idle, the RPMs jump down like they are being jerked. Does that sound anything similar to something I can fix?
And of course my car decided to do the same thing it is been doing right as I passed a cop pulled over putting someone in handcuffs. How in their sing. I seriously don't know what else to do. I had to pull over and reset the engine like I normally do. And continue with my drive. I keep getting that the throttlebody's stuck, but if it was really stuck, my car would be doing this way more often than so many miles every time I clean it.
If so, pull the upper boot off and look down inside the lower boot with a flashlight and make sure the lower flap in the lower intake boot did not get caught and is inside the throttle body.
Also you should be able to turn off and restart your car while rolling.
If an automatic, just put the trans in neutral, the the engine off, then restart.
If a manual, do the same but have the clutch pushed in.
Interesting news. I decided to hook my scan tool to the car under the engine. I got more codes. P1510, P0101, and P1770. It looks as if my computers are noncooperating right. Obviously this must mean that there is something wrong with the wiring. So I took time to use electrical cleaner on my ICV, and mass airflow sensor. The reason why I am checking these codes again is because the car decided to do the same thing it has been doing again tonight. After over 500 miles of it's being cooperative. I just read another thread on someone else getting similar codes to this, and it was due to a faulty ICV, so I may go ahead and buy a recycled wine and try it out if this problem comes back again after this Because that individual with the problems I am having had no other issues after he had the dealership changes ICV, of course I will change my own though.
If your car has the 20 pin round under hood connector, it has to have the top cap in place for the under dash 16 pin connector to read DME codes.
There is a shorting jumping in the under hood connector that passes the DME signals to the under dash connector. Make sure the jumpers in the under hood cap are not damaged.
I went from under the dash for my 2 codes and then got the other codes under the hoof last night.
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