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DYI: Mechanical Fan to Electric Fan Swap

245K views 467 replies 143 participants last post by  jasondotcom 
#1 ·
Let me just start off by saying I know this has been covered before, but no one has given a definitive answer, so I figured I'd make a thread for future reference.

I have an auto, and our cars come with a mechanical fan (engine driven) as well as an auxiliary fan to help with A/C and extra cooling power.

However, when I installed my supercharger, I had to remove the Aux fan to fit the intercooler. Because of that, the car would overheat when sitting at idle for too long, or if I ran the A/C (which wasn't even cold). I had to find a solution. I started looking at aftermarket fans, while also researching if I could swap an electric fan from a manual transmission E46.

I found a couple threads, but no real answers. I finally decided to PM the almighty and infinitely knowledgeable Mr. Nick G @ Technique Tuning, who informed me that it is a direct swap, and he performs this swap on his steptronic cars with no problems.

The mechanical fan and the aux fan have both been removed on my car, and replaced with a single OEM electric fan. So far so good. No wiring, no fitment issues, nada. Plops right in, plugs right in, and works.

Part # 17-11-7-561-757-M14
Cheapest place to buy: Pelican Parts - Click for direct link
Price: $253.00
Why?: Because a good aftermarket electric fan costs $150+. This is $100 more, and it's a direct plug-n-play.


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#320 ·
The 5spd cars rely on just 1 Efan so I'm sure you wouldn't notice a difference as far as the ac cooling.
 
#324 · (Edited)
#331 ·
#336 ·
How safe is installing a 'used' Electric Fan?
My first thought is going from 2 fans to one, reliability is an important factor in the one fan.

That said, you don't often hear about manual transmission electric fans failing. Once you remove the pusher fan in front, that opens alot of air directly to the radiator, so how often does the fan run? Sitting in traffic with the a/c on or other idling, but likely not much more. However, the failure mode is likely to be like a fuel pump, rarely in the driveway.

I might approach with caution a fan that's been sitting outside for awhile, as I don't know if internal motor rust/corrosion is a consideration on a fan that hasn't been run for a long time.

For mine, I bought new.
 
#337 · (Edited)
Just got one for literally free from a salvaged 06/2003 330i manual car (that got rear ended) with 132,000 miles.

All I have to do is drive to 70 miles in and out of Connecticut for it.

Seller says it is actually still in the car and the engine and everything works as I am writing this. I may also get some other parts off the car while I am there.

fingers crossed.

My guess is if it has worked since 2002 to now over 130,000 miles then I should be good.

Now I have money left over to get my Stewart Water Pump and a few other things my car desperately needs!
 
#341 ·
IF YOU HAVE NOT COMPLETED THIS MOD AND STILL HAVE A MECH FAN ON YOUR CAR, SWITCH IT NOW! I PUT THE MOD OFF, NOW THAT MY FAN EXPLOEDED, HERE'S WHAT I AM HAVING TO REPLACE:

1) fan - obvious
2) shroud
3) airbox and snorkel
4) power steering pump pulley
5) radiator
6) exp tank
7) serp belt
8) headlamp washer pump

This does not take into account the dent in the hood and subsequent body work and paint. The engine splash guard had a blade go through it but I think I can reuse this part. I wish I had done this mod before the explosion!
 
#342 · (Edited)
IF YOU HAVE NOT COMPLETED THIS MOD AND STILL HAVE A MECH FAN ON YOUR CAR, SWITCH IT NOW! I PUT THE MOD OFF, NOW THAT MY FAN EXPLOEDED.
Sorry to hear that, major bummer! That was one of the reasons I did mine.

Wolfn8tr!
Where did you get your fan from? Did you get bosch? or behr?
I got the BEHR fan from Amazon for $194 and Free shipping last week. I just checked and it's $215.00!
The links are below...




BEHR/BOSCH Fan #17-11-7-561-757-M14 and #351038391

Amazon
Price: $194.00
New-Part.com
Price: $204.00
ECSTuning.com
Price: $242.00
Pelican Parts.com
Price: $261.00

Water Pump Thread Cap/Nut
Price: $10.00


 

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#345 ·
I have a 2000 323i with auto transmission. Bought it in 2004 with 60K miles on it. It now has 114k miles.
3 weeks ago, after hearing what I thought was noisy bearings, I replaced the idler and tensioner pulleys (which had never been replaced since I have owned it). After listening to it at idle after that, I still heard quite a bit of noise, so I knew it had to be the (original factory) fan clutch going bad. I had read horror stories of how the fan can explode, so I knew I shouldn't continue driving it. I was going to replace it, but after researching the forum posts, I decided to replace the mechanical fan with an electrical fan. I took the mechanical fan out and took it for a test drive staying close to home (outside temp was 83), relying on only the front auxiliary fan, keeping an eye on the temperature gauge. It didn't overheat but after 10 minutes I came to a stop my transmission warning light came on. It was shifting really rough after that. Drove it 2 miles back home. I assumed the transmission light came on because there was not enough airflow and the transmission was getting too hot. After that, I developed a small slow leak from the tranny pan. I assume that was because I cooked the gasket just a bit. After removing the front bumper, removing the front auxiliary fan, thoroughly cleaning the radiator, installing the new Behr (Hella Service 351038391 Blower Radiator/Condenser) fan that I got on Amazon for $200. The install was really quick and easy, using the same connector from the old front auxiliary fan. I took it for a few test drives staying close to home. Seemed to run a little more peppy without the load of the mech fan. New aux fan came on when needed and never overheated and never saw the tranny warning light come on again. After a week of normal driving around town I assumed it had passed the test and the following week I drove to Arizona and back with no overheating problems or tranny warning light, even in 95 - 100 temps. Driving around town again the next day when I came to a stop, the tranny warning light came on again. I'm thinking the tranny could be low on fluid, and/or the fan needs to be on full time. As far as I know the fluid and filter have never been changed. I am planning on changing fluid and the filter this week, but am hesitant to go out driving again after that if the problem is an overheating problem. Does anyone know what could be happening? Does anyone know how to jumper the fan so it will stay on full time?
 
#346 ·
Might have first problem with the fan switch. I did mine last Oct.11 of 2011 and had no poblems till yesterday. Outside temp was 90 and drove 30 miles and temp was dead center on guage. drove around town for 15 mins did not look at temp guage and when I pulled into parking lot bam and steam everywhere. Figured I blew a hose but turns out the dam expansion tank cracked wide open down the seam. It was only 1.5 years old. any idea why that would happen?
 
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