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Forced Induction Forum
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Old 01-12-2015, 01:57 AM   #1
signalwest
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ESS TS2 Oil Filter Housing Gasket Change

I think this has been asked before, but did not see any answers. Has anyone changed out their oil filter housing gasket with the SC still on the car? It looks tight. I definitely have a leak and 95% sure it is the OFH gasket. I know the alternator needs to be removed etc, but can this be done without moving the SC?
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Old 01-12-2015, 06:03 AM   #2
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Not sure how you can maneuver it out of there with the TS in place...
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:31 AM   #3
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I know. Even if I am able to wiggle it out...I have to get it back in. Or maybe (if I can get to all six bolts) I can pull it back enough to either pull the gasket out and replace or put some extra gasket sealant with my fingers around that area (and cross my fingers). I was hoping someone could verify they had done it or at least attempted it and provide feedback so I know I should attempt this in my garage up on jacks or if I need to make arrangements to pull out/move the SC at a better garage.
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:33 AM   #4
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I'm assuming there is enough room to get the alternator out? That would be the first hurdle.
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Old 01-12-2015, 08:26 AM   #5
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Alternator yes. Best thing is to drop an e-mail to Hans, I asked him about the bypass valve a few days ago and he responded immediately with what needs to be removed in order to change it
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:35 AM   #6
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I'll shoot him an email. It would be nice to know if someone has attempted/done it with some feedback good and/or bad. I know I will share my experience as it really needs to be done. With or without the SC on If Hans replies I will post what he says here.
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Old 01-13-2015, 01:45 PM   #7
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I did mine recently, the charger can stay in.
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:20 PM   #8
signalwest
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Dave, this is very good to know. Thank you. I will give it a go. Any gotchas in the process or is it pretty much straight forward just a little tighter with the SC in the way?

Paraklas, nothing back from Hans yet
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Old 01-13-2015, 04:00 PM   #9
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I'm pretty sure apart from alternator, etc, I just removed the top radiator hose and sc pulley from memory. Once unbolted it just needs to be manoeuvred as it is lifted out.

Edit: when removing alternator, remove the idler pulley plate also (two pulleys on plate from ESS).

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Old 01-13-2015, 10:36 PM   #10
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Great Dave. Hans wrote back and said this:

You will have to remove the front snout for the supercharger. With this remove you will be able to remove the oil filter housing.

Dave, sounds like you avoided this and just removed that front plate. Could you get the whole oil filter housing out or just enough room to get to the gasket?
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Old 01-13-2015, 10:43 PM   #11
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Took the whole unit out and cleaned it, I did not remove the snout, and did not have to use force to remove it. There is a sweet spot where it will come out. I may have removed the top banjo bolt of the vanos line, can't remember, but keep that at the back of your mind just in case
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:50 AM   #12
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Dave, thank you for the tips!
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by signalwest View Post
Dave, thank you for the tips!
Best of luck with the job, I hate taking more apart than I need to. Hopefully it goes as smoothly for you
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:08 AM   #14
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Just FYI, Hans was not sure what the torque specs were for the 6 bolts that hold the drive extension in place that he said you could remove to have more room to work. So I called Lysholm and they said the LYS 1600AX (our ESS Twinscrew) is a discontinued model that they sold and which was developed out of northern Europe. They also did not know the specs But Whipple has similar twin screw models and I gave them a quick call to ask what the drive extension torque specs were on all their models for those 6 bolts. They said 120 in/lbs (not foot pounds). They also said to use something like black RTV sealeant around the edges when replacing the extension. Again, just some info. Of course I am going to try and do the job as Dave did and not worry about the drive extension removal. We will see how it goes.
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Old 01-23-2015, 04:19 PM   #15
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Just ran across this as I'm not online here much these days. I have also removed the OFH to replace the gasket without removing the SC'er or its drive extension. I seem to recall some funky angles trying to get at some of the filter housing bolts but it can be done. Removing the drive extension might be more straightforward but it is definitely not required.
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Old 01-23-2015, 06:45 PM   #16
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I was doing other work under the car at the same time, I removed the oil filter housing bolts from beneath the car.

Last edited by Davew; 01-23-2015 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 01-26-2015, 12:48 PM   #17
signalwest
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Upper left bolt on the housing was the only issue...it was hitting the sc drive extension, but pulling out ofh from bottom first got it. Funky angles to get out is right. Next step...getting it back on. Besides the gasket should I add some black rtv sealant?
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:40 AM   #18
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Noticed yesterday that I may have an OFHG leak
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Old 02-04-2015, 02:51 PM   #19
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It is not too bad getting it off. I still have not put it back on yet because it has been around -5C here and my garage is not heated. Hoping things will warm up mid to late Feb. I am definitely putting some RTV sealant with the gasket for good measure.
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:35 PM   #20
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If anyone is interested, this is much easier if you change the OFHG when you refresh your cooling system (which I also did). Once you take out the upper hose and thermostat (and remove pulley) this is a cake walk. Easily accessible.

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