So the car has been eating oil like crazy because before the turbo it sucked up a lot of water and killed some rings. Now the boost is making it worse anyways...
I thought I guess its time for stage 2 plus a little. The goal is 415RWHP.
So far I only plan on:
CP 8.8:1 Forged Pistons
Hone and deck the block
Same turbo with a .82 a/f exhaust housing
and more boost:4ngie:
Not sure if I'm doing anything to the head/valves.
I worked on it for about 5 hours today.
Oil in the intercooler is from a bad CCV keeping the turbo from draining.
Got frustrated because i could get the down pipe/wastegate tube off and out of the way.
(all done with 2 jack stands in my apartment parking lot)
Any advice welcome. BTW i planned on leaving the transmission attached.
Yeah & make sure you cover it in silicone grease and put it on the dipstick tube before forcing the dipstick back into the oil pan - otherwise the o-ring will get cut, which is probably what happened to begin with.
awsome thread of F/I infor i cant wait to see the final product and 15 psi? on a TT kit whats stage 2 come from Nick at? and i believe around 375 crank for stage 2 is what i rememebr is there a stage 3 or 4 now?
Driving on the stage 1 tune should be fine, low compression tunes can run more timing at the same boost levels, so you should be safe as long as your EGT's aren't out of control.
I won't go into details, but many have good luck with just welding the nut on a stock BMW oil pump. Many of those I speak of are racing their cars (no VIN).
That said, the dual mass is kindof nice in a street car. You won't get gear rattle, and driving around will be easier on you...
Thanks man hows the E60? and did you sell your 330?
I'm get upset that I'm doing this every time I go out side and see my car:banghead: I just want to go for a drive ha. Motorcycles aren't fun like they used to be.....
I would keep the OEM cams and put your $$ into getting the engine back up and running. There are costs coming that will surprise you a bit, but it's all part of rebuilding a BMW engine.
I don't mean to scare you, but in general everything took me nearly 2-3 times as long to finish than what I initially planned on my first engine rebuild. Probably the most nasty one was receiving the wrong parts from vendors...which I got to foot the shipping bill on. In one case, the part was completely unusable from a well known vendor, and they refused to take any action.
I don't think you'll run into the exact same issues I did, as I can guide you through a lot of this, but there still will be "surprise" $500 costs by the time you get this back together.
WOWWWWWWWW... I went through all 8 pages and I :bow: to you! Thats pretty fukin awesome what you're doing. Fully restored engine by yourself, all labor done at home, and especially no garage?? :excited:
Also I see that you're very mechanically inclined so thats a big :thumbsup:. Have you done this type of work before? If I attemp to bring my parts let alone engine hoist, stand, and block/heads in my house I wouldn't hear the last of it from the significant other.
Keep up the good work and i'll check back later on the process. I wanna see the outcome and the newly refined rebuilt motor.
Thanks, and actually the apartment manager came up to me and was telling me he admired my car and ask what I did with the engine. In the end he wanted to know if a was a BMW mechanic:lmaonot by far) and if I could put cats on his E39 530. My roommate(female) doesn't really care as long as everything stays in my room or the back deck.
Yeah I really wish I ordered the pistons a long time ago but O well.....all I want is to be done before August 6. That includes a dirve down to Florida.
The cam blocks (or ledges) are the bearings, and unless your ledges show severe signs of scoring or other wear I wouldn't worry about it.
I'd find more importance in weight matching your piston/rod assemblies than putting the rods back in the same place (but others may have a different opinion.
Ha nice pic but because I'm not paying extra money to get the pistons sooner.
2 weeks I think.
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