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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 04-22-2016, 10:42 PM   #241
ddaniel1
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Might have been a clearance or break in issue with the new pump parts? You need to get a BMW code reader to trouble shoot the DSC. I use BMW scanner 1.4.0 I will pm you some info on it. check to see if you have the round connector in the drug bin, 2000 models will need an adapter.
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Old 05-15-2016, 07:22 PM   #242
DBLOCK1968
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Bad news! While I was on the on ramp to get on the highway I speeded to be able to merge in and something went. Not sure what but tranny fluid all leaked out. Just got home after waiting to get it towed. Any ideas? I know I have to get under it to see where it leaked from. I'm praying it's something simple like one of the cooling lines. Idk what to think at this point. Only leaks when I turn it on.
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Old 05-15-2016, 09:05 PM   #243
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Sounds like a cooling line, look down the radiator to see if one came off the cooler, happened to us. It will empty the transmission very quickly.
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Old 05-15-2016, 10:06 PM   #244
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Just got up from under the car. Cooling lines and and all connections are intact and bone dry. It's leaking out from the tork converter area where the opening is where you can see the tork converter and flywheel. Must be some type of seal that blew. Can't tell till I drop the tranny. Not sure when that will be.
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Old 05-16-2016, 05:47 AM   #245
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Sorry to hear you are having more issues with that darn transmission. If it is coming from the torque converter area the only reasonable source is the converter seal (the one with two screws). I think I mentioned this before but on mine the pressed-in bushing just behind that seal had walked out over time and pressed against the lip of the seal. The fluid leaked out around it while my daughter was driving until it didn't have enough pressure to drive anymore. I found the problem very quickly and bought another bushing that was solid instead of the split one I received first and I also JB-welded it in too for extra insurance. The car has been driven over 10,000 miles with no problems since. I don't know which converter and bellhousing you used but I remember you had the stuck converter and found it very marred up. If you have one that isn't smooth I think it moves that bushing and likely causes extra wear of the seal lip too. However, since yours failed very rapidly based on your description, you may find something a little different. Keep us posted and I wish I could be there to help you out and end this nightmare!
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Old 05-16-2016, 06:53 AM   #246
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Thanks jw! I had bought a new converter and seal (the one with the 2 screws) and installed them when I rebuilt the pump. I also bought the bushing but never replaced it because when I closely inspected it, it didn't look like it suffered any damage. Meaning no visual dents nicks or scratches. The seal itself looked ok but since it was relatively easy to replace, I replaced it just to be safe. I remember it was a very tight fit, so I lightly tapped it in with a socket big enough to fit around the metal housing and cleared the rubber seal. I'm going to try to drop the tranny today at some point. Just not sure I'll have time. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks again!
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Old 05-16-2016, 08:45 PM   #247
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Well, I got the tranny down. It is definitely leaking out from somewhere behind the converter. What puzzles me is that the new converter seal I installed when I rebuilt the pump, and the bell housing bushing which I never replaced because it looked intact, both look to be in great shape. I mean, I do have a new bushing that I ordered but never installed. And a new converter seal is pretty cheap. But how can I be sure that's where all the fluid leaked out of? I know it makes sense to just replace them both. No brainer there. My concern is putting it all together and have it still leak. I'm also thinking about replacing the o-ring on the converter shaft. Are there any other seals or maybe o-rings that could be causing the leak in this area? Don't mean to sound dumb. But I'm pretty dumbfounded because as I mentioned, both the converter seal and the bushing look pretty good. Please reply ASAP. I'm kinda stuck!
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Old 05-16-2016, 09:34 PM   #248
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D, , there is also a special tool to center the convertor seal, I am betting on the bushing allowing extra wear on the seal though. , post 5 shows the tool. The oring could play a role also as you mentioned. Sorry to hear about this. I was thinking of the white teflon seals but if you didn't disturb the clutch packs they shouldn't be an issue.
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Old 05-16-2016, 09:39 PM   #249
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Thanks d! I was doing a little shopping on the cobra site. I saw the sealing ring kit which includes those 4 white Teflon rings you're talking about. It also comes with 3 other black ones and a larger black one. But I can't find the o-ring.

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Old 05-16-2016, 10:03 PM   #250
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BTW, I'm not sure what you mean about disturbing the clutch packs. But last time, and today again when I lifted up the bell housing away the shaft came up some on me. When it happened last time I just carefully and slowly spun everything until it all fell back in place. Did the same today. It all fell back in place and cleared the top edge from touching the pump stator.
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:12 PM   #251
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Strange the two of you can refer to each other as d and it works fine but I'm left out! I am assigning one letter names for each of you.... DBLOCK1968 is now capital letter "D" and ddaniel1 is now lower case "d"!

D (that is so much better!), sorry I didn't see your urgent request sooner but I'm not getting notifications for some reason; I'll see if I can fix it.

I remember you replaced several parts due to the damage caused during the install and removal of the transmission. Please confirm the following:
1. Torque converter -- new or refurbished?
2. Bell-housing -- reused old one that had damage from attempting to pry it apart?
3. Pump housing & pump parts -- reused old housing but replaced the pump parts & seals?
4. Input shaft seal (the one on the end of the shaft that you need to remove to get the bell-housing off) -- Reused old one or replaced
5. Converter seal (the one with 2 screws) -- installed new one and are you sure it seated all the way around before you installed the screws? I'm curious if you tried to use the screws to pull it in at all.
6. Bell-housing bushing -- You said you reused the old one, is that the one the converter got stuck on? I though you had bushing material embedded into the converter shaft. That may have left it looking uniform but oversized the opening.

I know you talked about some of that yesterday but I'm looking for a few details and trying to get it all in one place so we can help you better.

My latest thoughts are the leak has to be from the input shaft seal or converter seal (2 screws one) and is possibly related to the bushing. I don't know that you really need the seal tool d (again, way better) mentioned as long as you are getting it fully seated and not deforming it on the way. Those are the only seals that prevent leaks from the bell-housing during operation. The pump is driven by the two wide slots on the end of the converter any time the engine is rotating. That fluid exits ports in the pump housing and circulates to the converter along with other places. As long as there isn't a hole or crack in the converter or bell-housing the two seals are the only things keeping the fluid in. The bushing located behind the converter seal maintains the alignment of the converter shaft during operation. Make sure it isn't even close to the converter seal lip.

My best guesses right now are as follows with the most likely first:
1. The bushing is damaged allowing the converter shaft to wobble around during operation. That would break the seal and cause a leak that would get worse over time; especially under high load.
2. Bell-housing damage where it mounts to the engine is somehow causing a slight misalignment that is deforming the converter seal to the side just enough to leak.
3. Bushing backed out like mine did and is making contact with the converter seal and is pushing the lip of the seal away from the converter shaft allowing the leak.
4. Input shaft seal (small one) is damaged or worn allowing the leak. (I'm not sure this can actually cause an external leak though).
5. Hole or crack in the converter or bell-housing (the area that is also the pump housing).
6. Car is possessed and wants a 6-speed manual even more than you do. It won't stop until it gets what it wants!
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Old 05-17-2016, 05:25 PM   #252
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Hi jw! Lol. Ok. I'll be capital D it it works for you. Lol. Ok. I'll try to address all your questions in the order asked:
1 torque converter listed as new in cobra transmissions.
2 bell housing is the original that came with the tranny. The used one I got of eBay it's the one that had damage from prying and where the original torque converter got stuck and damaged the bushing.
3 I reused my original pump stator since it wasn't really damaged. The pump stator on the bell housing I got of eBay got some deep gashes in it when I screwed up and misinstalled the torque converter the first time causing all the unnecessary damage.
4 Do you mean the o-ring? I reused the same old ring.
5 I replaced the converter seal (the one with the 2 screws) with a new one. I used a large enough socket to seat it in place. The socket is big enough to sit over the metal without disturbing the rubber part of the seal. It seated perfectly before I put the 2 screws back in.
6 I did re use my original bellhousing. The one the converter got stuck on is the one I got of eBay. That's the one that I screwed up.
As far as your 6 guesses? I'm really believing on #6. I believe this SOB is possessed. I can't wait to have the money for the swap.
Thank you for all your help. As I stand right now, I'm ordering a new converter seal, a new turbine shat o-ring, (the one that goes on before installing the converter) and a new sealing ring kit, which comes with the 4 white teflon seals and anothe 3 black Teflon seals and a larger black teflon seal. The bellhousing bushing is intact. But I do have a new one I will install. I got it when I got the pump rebuild kit, but never replaced it. In addition, I just removed the old bellhousing bushing. Both the new and old one fit around the neck of the converter identically. But I'm still going with the new one since I already got it.

Last edited by DBLOCK1968; 05-17-2016 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:30 AM   #253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBLOCK1968 View Post
Hi jw! Lol. Ok. I'll be capital D it it works for you. Lol. Ok. I'll try to address all your questions in the order asked:
1 torque converter listed as new in cobra transmissions.
2 bell housing is the original that came with the tranny. The used one I got of eBay it's the one that had damage from prying and where the original torque converter got stuck and damaged the bushing.
3 I reused my original pump stator since it wasn't really damaged. The pump stator on the bell housing I got of eBay got some deep gashes in it when I screwed up and misinstalled the torque converter the first time causing all the unnecessary damage.
4 Do you mean the o-ring? I reused the same old ring.
5 I replaced the converter seal (the one with the 2 screws) with a new one. I used a large enough socket to seat it in place. The socket is big enough to sit over the metal without disturbing the rubber part of the seal. It seated perfectly before I put the 2 screws back in.
6 I did re use my original bellhousing. The one the converter got stuck on is the one I got of eBay. That's the one that I screwed up.
As far as your 6 guesses? I'm really believing on #6. I believe this SOB is possessed. I can't wait to have the money for the swap.
Thank you for all your help. As I stand right now, I'm ordering a new converter seal, a new turbine shat o-ring, (the one that goes on before installing the converter) and a new sealing ring kit, which comes with the 4 white teflon seals and anothe 3 black Teflon seals and a larger black teflon seal. The bellhousing bushing is intact. But I do have a new one I will install. I got it when I got the pump rebuild kit, but never replaced it. In addition, I just removed the old bellhousing bushing. Both the new and old one fit around the neck of the converter identically. But I'm still going with the new one since I already got it.
Is the new bushing you are going to use solid or is it split in one spot?

Did you verify the bushing you had installed was properly inserted and not interfering with the lip of the seal where it goes around the converter?

I'm running out of ideas here....I might need to look at the hydraulic schematics next.
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Old 05-19-2016, 07:46 PM   #254
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The new bushing is solid. The one I removed that was originally there isn't.
I never installed the bushing the last time. I reused the same one and never disturbed it. As far as I remember it was pretty centered in the bellhousing and not touching the the lip of the converter seal.
This is why I'm very puzzled and dumbfounded. Before I pulled the tranny down I saw fluid coming from that area. After I pulled it down I couldn't tell exactly where it was coming from.
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Old 05-19-2016, 07:54 PM   #255
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One thing is for sure. After I undid the pump stator from the bell housing I noticed I had missed one of the 13 little flat spacers that go inside the pump assembly. There was no damage whatsoever. Thank God. I had found the "extra" one after the tranny was up. And I figured maybe one came extra. But sure enough it wasn't an extra one. Idk how I missed it. But I did. Too excited about putting back in I guess. I will be extra careful this time. Although I'm pretty sure that did not cause the leak. It could've damaged the pump again.
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:03 PM   #256
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D, I thought I responded to this previously but don't see my post.

The spacer you are referring to is actually a pump vane. They must be in correctly or the pump will not work. If you are not sure you have it right post a picture so we can confirm.

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Old 07-18-2016, 03:16 PM   #257
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Still trying to resolve "no reverse" problem with E46

Hi,

I like to thank everyone for the excellent information in this thread!!
I'm hoping for a little advice on my next move to fix my trany.

I have a "2000" 328i that has just manifested the dreaded no reverse problem.
The trany has about 230k on it and has never been low on oil or abused, that I know of.

At first the problem was intermittent and I changed the changed / flushed the oil, filter and reverse solenoid. The trany worked fine for about 2k miles and then the issue reappeared and there is now no reverse at all.

Several posts mention that finally rebuilding the valve body at this point has a high level of success when fixes above don't work.

I chatted online with Cobra Transmission and the person didn't seem to quite grasp what I meant by a valve body rebuild kit. Instead, he sent me lists of one-off parts of an incomplete kit.

My question is, do I need to determine exactly what parts, gaskets and seals I need and supply the grocery list to Cobra?

I have read through ddaniel1's post and feel confident I can produce a successful rebuild with the correct parts list, books and tools.

Thanks in advance!!!
-jz
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