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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 06-20-2015, 10:07 PM   #141
tslavant
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Well I'll get to reading some more, thanks! Does anyone have a good exploded view of the CCV?
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Old 06-27-2015, 07:46 PM   #142
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Well my issues have been resolved! I decided to replace my spark plugs because they were due and to eliminate that variable. When pulling the plugs there was a black crust on some of the plugs. The car did run a bit better. So I took the car to the parts store to read the codes then clearing them. I drove the car till the light came back on. The code said to check coil number 4. I did some research and found a video on how to check your coils and super simple!!! So after replacing the coil my car runs fine, the I think I will replace them all!

Last edited by tslavant; 06-27-2015 at 07:54 PM.
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Old 06-27-2015, 07:48 PM   #143
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Here's the video, this would have saved me a ton of time... But I did enjoy and doing all that I did! Thanks all the help guys!
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Old 06-28-2015, 11:49 AM   #144
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So would you replace all the coils or just the one? I was thinking replace them all.
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Old 06-28-2015, 11:50 AM   #145
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Only the one that is failing. Changing them all is a waste of money.
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Old 08-16-2015, 01:48 PM   #146
tslavant
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More issues

Well car ran great for awhile more cylinders are showing miss fire and running lean. I'm assuming and replacing the worst coils. Eventually I will replace them all. Also it miss fire intermittently, then times the car will go dead suddenly if I give it gas. I also have the wifi obd2 device. I have two oxengyn sensors bank one and bank 2 both say running lean. Are these working or are they bad, do I need to replace them? I did just replace the radiator, expansion tank , fan clutch and new fan sense a blade was broken off. It's amazing how cloged the radiator gets and in a place so hard to clean. if I would would have known that I would been more vigilant maintaining the radiator!

Last edited by tslavant; 08-16-2015 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 12-17-2016, 11:25 AM   #147
malone
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I,ve had a similar idle problem for 4 years that seems to be getting progressively worse.
It's a 2001 325 Ci with manual xmsn. It runs great except at idle after coming to a stop.
When clutch is in or transmission in neutral the idle will fluctuate between 1000 and 400 then usually dies unless the engine is reved up. It is definitely affected by electrical load, ie head lights on or AC or heat blower on high. With any of those things off it still fluctuates but usually smoothes out.
I replaced the alternator which put out 14.1 volts at idle with a new, not rebuilt, to no avail.
No codes are thrown.
Smoke test for vac leaks were done by 2 independent shops indicated no vac leaks and read all data was normal with their SnapOn scanners.
I have replaced 'oil separator valve ', 'idle control valve ', 'DISA adjuster valve', 'throttle body', and all associated the boots and hoses.
After all of that, the problem went away for about a year. Now it's back!!!
The local dealer service dept. has never heard of this issue and wants the car for a week to start replacing components.
Any intelligent help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Last edited by malone; 12-17-2016 at 11:28 AM. Reason: I was trying to post this to the'Rough idle' Thread
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Old 12-17-2016, 11:59 AM   #148
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malone,

I see you are new here and this is your first post.

You need to listen to me. DO NOT take your car to the dealer!!!

Spend $30 or less and buy the OBDFusion App for your phone or table and get the proper VeePeak wireless interface on Amazon.

Android requires Bluetooth, iProducts requires Wifi.

Then you need to read these threads at least 3 times, then get some sleep and then read them again.

Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1057387

I hear you say the engine has been smoke tested before and the SnapOn scanner info looked fine. Forget about all of this, if the brake booster is bad, a smoke test would not pick this up.

I have more test equipment and software than most of these E46's are worth, but for driveability I can do more with a $4 App than most "Professional" mechanics can with a $4000 SnapOn tool.

Suggest you start a new thread once you get the OBDFusion App and interface and I will provide info on how to set it up and gather data.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 12-17-2016, 01:48 PM   #149
tslavant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malone View Post
I,ve had a similar idle problem for 4 years that seems to be getting progressively worse.
It's a 2001 325 Ci with manual xmsn. It runs great except at idle after coming to a stop.
When clutch is in or transmission in neutral the idle will fluctuate between 1000 and 400 then usually dies unless the engine is reved up. It is definitely affected by electrical load, ie head lights on or AC or heat blower on high. With any of those things off it still fluctuates but usually smoothes out.
I replaced the alternator which put out 14.1 volts at idle with a new, not rebuilt, to no avail.
No codes are thrown.
Smoke test for vac leaks were done by 2 independent shops indicated no vac leaks and read all data was normal with their SnapOn scanners.
I have replaced 'oil separator valve ', 'idle control valve ', 'DISA adjuster valve', 'throttle body', and all associated the boots and hoses.
After all of that, the problem went away for about a year. Now it's back!!!
The local dealer service dept. has never heard of this issue and wants the car for a week to start replacing components.
Any intelligent help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Do what he said above! But for quick check, check your coil packs it's easy to check. If it wasn't done.
Clean MAF, or it may need replaced. Also check your valve cover gasket, it will suck air and rain water in if bad. Easy replacement. Oh, run sea foam thru the gas!!! Twice. Your choice if you want to run it through the intake. I did and it helped.
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Old 12-17-2016, 03:13 PM   #150
malone
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jfoj, your info is fantastic! Given all that's there, it will be awhile before I get back.
Thank you so much!!
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