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This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 01-26-2017, 11:59 AM   #21
Mango
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You may be able to mitigate oil loss on some old BMWs, but truth is, at some point, these old BMWs are just going to need new ring jobs. Plain and simple. Everyone wants to believe there's a magic quick fix. but there's not. These engines are just fvcking old and worn. You want new car characteristics, you'll have to make your car brand new OR get a new car. Stuff wears out.

Money money money.
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Old 01-26-2017, 02:39 PM   #22
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you may be able to mitigate oil loss on some old bmws, but truth is, at some point, these old bmws are just going to need new ring jobs. Plain and simple. Everyone wants to believe there's a magic quick fix. But there's not. These engines are just fvcking old and worn. You want new car characteristics, you'll have to make your car brand new or get a new car. Stuff wears out.

Money money money.


ie: Replace everything mango fashion
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Old 01-26-2017, 05:11 PM   #23
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ie: Replace everything mango fashion
Yes. You are unintentionally right.

At this point a ring job is likely to turn into a full blown engine rebuild. One example is 50sKid's findings after engine teardown. Initially he was planning a head gasket / piston rings / rod bearing job.
Just watched one of his most recent videos on blueprinting his engine block. He found that most of the cylinders have significant out-of-round and taper wear, so no simple cylinder wall honing and engine reassembly. He'll need cylinder boring machine job and a set of oversized pistons.

This is just motivating me to do leak down testing more often and get ready for a full engine rebuild at first sings of compression ring and/or cylinder wall wear.

Of course, people who just want to get another year or so out of their aged E46 may consider alternatives cheaper than restoring the engine back to factory specs.
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Old 01-26-2017, 05:50 PM   #24
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Yes. He found that most of the cylinders have significant out-of-round and taper wear, so no simple cylinder wall honing and engine reassembly.
Interesting... wonder if this is due to the cast iron inserts not being very durable or the way in which they are manufactured (pressed in?)
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Old 01-26-2017, 06:47 PM   #25
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I am surprised from those consumption rate you reported OP!!
Almost feeling spoiled that @ close to 140,000 I am down MAYBE 1/4th of a quart in 3,500miles on my B30.

There's got to be some variable here which you can compare again a non-burning car, which is affecting the consumption ; Have you smelled the exhaust lately for oily smell when you step on it, or trailed your car with a camera lately?
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Old 06-11-2017, 08:12 PM   #26
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I too am experiencing pretty excessive oil consumption on my 02 330i, 185,000 mi!! Runs pretty strong but using a quart about every 500 miles. FAK!!
MY 01 325i just turned 100,000. Minimal oil consumption. I'll be driving that for most of my longer errands until I get the 330 squared away.
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Old 06-11-2017, 09:32 PM   #27
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Oh man, I stopped getting notifications from this thread for some reason.

I went ahead and changed to Mobil 1 0W40 European Formula, as it goes on sale once every month or so for $30 or so. Consumption noticeably reduced.
My oil filler cap was actually broken on a corner, and the seal wasn't sitting flush causing oil vapor to come out and then condense on my valve cover. Also had a mayo build-up occurring on it. Changed out the cap, and no-oil condensation or mayo.
I also went along and ran some fuel cleaners through, oil came out pitch black the first time, and still pretty dark the last oil change (mid-april).
Yellow oil light doesn't come up as frequently, but when it does I do check my level, drive around to a different spot and re-check it, to eliminate a false light, and then top-up.

I am looking at changing out the sensor at my next oil change (should be soon), and going to do the oil housing gasket when I find myself working in that area. (Contemplating B30 manifold swap + headers /w EU2 B30 tune).

I'm going to just avoid chasing the oil issue and keep an eye on it, since it more than likely is just an age issue, as Mango said.
Eventually I may do a ring job, or an engine swap from a 330 since the M54B30 engines are getting cheaper in my area. (One in need of a head gasket change sold for $100, and a low-mileage one is up for $600 atm).
But that will have to wait, as the goal for the car is for it to get me through University (2 years to go).

Everything is running mint, no leaks or sign of leaks anywhere. Car idles at 1K on startup, and around 630 once warm.

No smoke out the tail pipe.
Note: Exhaust does smell sweeter since I put in an AFE CAI about a month ago.
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Old 06-12-2017, 06:08 AM   #28
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I'm not sure how important it really is, but you might want to see if the Mobil1 you're using still has the BMW LL-01 certification on it. The jugs I purchased recently no longer have it and I believe that certification was dropped sometime ago.

I ended up not using it and went with Amsoil Euro 0W-40. It's working great so far and has LL-01 spec.

Last edited by Mike_Hawk; 06-12-2017 at 06:17 AM.
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Old 06-12-2017, 06:51 AM   #29
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I changed to Rotella T6 and did the O2Pilot mod. Oil usage down dramatically.
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Old 06-12-2017, 08:01 AM   #30
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The M54B30 engine is notorious for burning oil. The cause is the low tension oil control rings (LTOCRs). BMW installed them in this engine and not any of the other variants (M54B20, M54B25). These rings need consistent crankcase vacuum to work properly. That's the job of the CCV. It sux at its job (pun intended). The ONLY real solution is an oil catch can.
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Old 06-12-2017, 11:01 AM   #31
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Why don't you like O2pilot mod?


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Old 06-12-2017, 11:25 AM   #32
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Why don't you like O2pilot mod?
From what I remember - O2Pilot mod is not good for cold climates or the car is driven in cold climates as the lines used is not insulated and vapor can freeze.

If I get a 3rd car this before winter I will probably do the mod but Ohio can have really cold weather.
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:19 PM   #33
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From what I remember - O2Pilot mod is not good for cold climates or the car is driven in cold climates as the lines used is not insulated and vapor can freeze.

If I get a 3rd car this before winter I will probably do the mod but Ohio can have really cold weather.
It's the opposite. The catch can fills with water/oil slurry and needs to be emptied.

The 02Pilot mod carries no greater risk than the stock CCV system.

The only downside to the 02Pilot mod is that you maintain the stock CCV, which is a sh*tty system.

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The M54B30 engine is notorious for burning oil. The cause is the low tension oil control rings (LTOCRs). BMW installed them in this engine and not any of the other variants (M54B20, M54B25). These rings need consistent crankcase vacuum to work properly. That's the job of the CCV. It sux at its job (pun intended). The ONLY real solution is an oil catch can.
The increased vacuum helps with oil burning, but it's not the actual problem. The problem also has nothing to do with low tension oil rings, which virtually all cars have. 50sKid made a video where he explains the issue--BMW switched to a 2 ring design from the 3 ring setup on the M52. The 3.0 and 2.5 M54 engines both burn oil. There's no difference.

I have his video embedded in the 02Pilot mod DIY in my signature. He explains everything you would ever want to know about the oil burning issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Hawk View Post
I'm not sure how important it really is, but you might want to see if the Mobil1 you're using still has the BMW LL-01 certification on it. The jugs I purchased recently no longer have it and I believe that certification was dropped sometime ago.

I ended up not using it and went with Amsoil Euro 0W-40. It's working great so far and has LL-01 spec.
There are no Mobil 1 oils with LL-01 certification now.

As long as you're not using a sh*t Mobil 1 like 5w30, it doesn't matter. 10w40 HM, 0w40 Euro are both perfectly fine. Look for ACEA A3/B3 to B4 on the bottle.

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Old 06-12-2017, 12:24 PM   #34
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I changed to Rotella T6 and did the O2Pilot mod. Oil usage down dramatically.


Mango says these motors need new rings. More often than not they don't. They just need their rings to work better. The combination of the O2Pilot mod and the use of a high detergent oil such as Rotella T6 does just that.

Last edited by Dave1027; 06-12-2017 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:35 PM   #35
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The 02Pilot mod carries no greater risk than the stock CCV system.
But the stock CCV system is not the cold climate package that they had to create because of issues n cold climates with the stock CCV.
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:39 PM   #36
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But the stock CCV system is not the cold climate package that they had to create because of issues n cold climates with the stock CCV.
The stock CCV carries its own cold climate risks, the cold climate system is an upgrade that should get rid of those issues. You can still do the 02Pilot mod to the cold climate CCV, and the only added risk would be that vacuum hose clogging--which isn't a risk at all, because until you do the modification that vacuum hose doesn't exist. It's just running a vacuum hose from a capped port on the intake to the capped port on the CCV. So a clog would bring it back to where it was before you did anything.
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Old 06-12-2017, 04:04 PM   #37
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WOW....Every mechanic sells 'rear seal' !

You are leaking massive oil...and should be evident if not for the two pans under your engine-transmission. I'd think an O-ring, or some major gasket within the pressurized oil system has failed. And it may likely get catastrophic very soon.
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Old 06-15-2017, 09:45 AM   #38
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Thanks for the info on Mobil 1 0W40 Changing, I never noticed or really checked since I switched over to it.

My car does have the cold climate CCV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lingon300k View Post
The stock CCV carries its own cold climate risks, the cold climate system is an upgrade that should get rid of those issues. You can still do the 02Pilot mod to the cold climate CCV, and the only added risk would be that vacuum hose clogging--which isn't a risk at all, because until you do the modification that vacuum hose doesn't exist. It's just running a vacuum hose from a capped port on the intake to the capped port on the CCV. So a clog would bring it back to where it was before you did anything.
Interesting insight Mr.Lingon300k , I may actually try that. O2 Mod seems like a safer mod to do than a catch can in the cold climate. I say that knowing that on mornings where I'd be rushing out, there is a higher chance of me not checking the catch can.

87 300D:
Car doesn't have any of the under body shields. They got destroyed by bouncing fan blades. (Still finding pieces in the nooks and crannies of the engine bay).So,I were to be having any sort of major leak, there would be a nice puddle in my garage or on driveway.


I've also been beating the car really hard lately, drove to Florida in my moms CRV, and then to Baltimore in my sisters '16 Civic, and just craved my lil 325xi ("power" and comfort-wise)
Added about 5K km in the past month and a half, and another 14K+ since I first posted the oil problem. Only issues I've had was two misfires on startup, however had a drop to -15Celcius the night I parked the car outside.

I'm changing oil about every month-half/two months, and adding a little dabble everyone 3 weeks.

Last edited by MrAfro; 06-15-2017 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 06-16-2017, 09:43 AM   #39
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Interesting... wonder if this is due to the cast iron inserts not being very durable or the way in which they are manufactured (pressed in?)
No, that is just normal wear.
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Old 06-16-2017, 01:01 PM   #40
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Why I did for my 330 in order:

1. Ofhg
2. Valve cover
3. CCV replace
4. Oil pan gasket
5. Rotella
6. O2Pilot Mod

You could eat off my engine now, and oil consumption went from 1qt/750 miles to no quarts since last oil change 7,000 miles ago.


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