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Old 03-23-2010, 12:27 PM   #41
Nachos23
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Update. Haven't touched suspension since repacking CV joints and car is running great. CV joints were not too bad afterall. I got the alignment adjusted (it was off front and rear toe-in), got my summer wheels balanced and installed and everythings great. Staying "as is" for the moment. Will be doing front brake job in next few days including rotors, pads, caliper rebuild, performance caliper pins (replace stock rubber ones) and brake bleed. Been having steering wheel shake when applying brakes lightly a sure sign of warped rotors. Believe, that is final piece to puzzle. Suspension been great since CV repack, but was still getting ocassional pulling/grabbing which I have identified as right caliper.

Although I must have, I don't recall ever changing the rotors before, so it's possible they are original (225,000 km??). If I have it's been well over 150,000km since. The front calipers are original; 1st rebuild.....
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:08 PM   #42
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Need some help on this topic. I had torn the boot a couple months back and just last weekend had both front axles changed out. 01 330xi 94k. I have h&r springs, Bilstein struts, car isnt crazy low but it isnt very far from it. Im now getting a little vibration under acceleration which does not occur unless im getting on it a little, and also around 90-100 mph.....Im no mechanic or even close but it appears this happens when the max torque is applied for the most part. Is this something that is possible prior to the axles being fully broken in or is this indicitive of a deeper issue? I have a warranty on the axles and labor so if i need to move on these I would like to sooner than later. Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:50 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by 330xischeid View Post
Need some help on this topic. I had torn the boot a couple months back and just last weekend had both front axles changed out. 01 330xi 94k. I have h&r springs, Bilstein struts, car isnt crazy low but it isnt very far from it. Im now getting a little vibration under acceleration which does not occur unless im getting on it a little, and also around 90-100 mph.....Im no mechanic or even close but it appears this happens when the max torque is applied for the most part. Is this something that is possible prior to the axles being fully broken in or is this indicitive of a deeper issue? I have a warranty on the axles and labor so if i need to move on these I would like to sooner than later. Thanks for the help.

If the new axles are not OEM then they are usually junk. You're better off rebuild your OEM then buying some Chinese made brand.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:54 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Nachos23 View Post
Update. Haven't touched suspension since repacking CV joints and car is running great. CV joints were not too bad afterall. I got the alignment adjusted (it was off front and rear toe-in), got my summer wheels balanced and installed and everythings great. Staying "as is" for the moment. Will be doing front brake job in next few days including rotors, pads, caliper rebuild, performance caliper pins (replace stock rubber ones) and brake bleed. Been having steering wheel shake when applying brakes lightly a sure sign of warped rotors. Believe, that is final piece to puzzle. Suspension been great since CV repack, but was still getting ocassional pulling/grabbing which I have identified as right caliper.

Although I must have, I don't recall ever changing the rotors before, so it's possible they are original (225,000 km??). If I have it's been well over 150,000km since. The front calipers are original; 1st rebuild.....
Warped rotors will give you a feeling of pulsation in the pedal, if you don't feel the pulsation on the foot pedal then more likely control arms, worn tie rods, blown struts, etc....
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Old 03-23-2010, 02:15 PM   #45
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If the new axles are not OEM then they are usually junk. You're better off rebuild your OEM then buying some Chinese made brand.
+1. My passenger side FEQ brand axle lasted three weeks.
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:14 PM   #46
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To answer and respond...... The problem with the vibration is usually associated with inner CV joints being dry. Heard of similar issues with aftermarket axles. I was going to replace with FCP Groton parts, but will opt for local rebuild instead when time to avoid just such an issue. I would check the remaining suspension components for wear and/or play, but normally the vibration you're feeling is related to inner CV boots.... in fact this thread ws started due to that specific issue. Read the complete thread, you will see the efforts some have gone to identify and fix this issue. That is why I posted the update today. Many of spend HUGE $$$ to fix an elusive but otherwise easy fix. I was fortunate that my boots did not tear, only leak from seals, so clean, repack and reseal; DONE! The VERY minor vibration I still feel under full load, is likely due to the the CV joints being worn and exposed to elements for so long before being repaired.

As far as brakes are concerned. I absolutely have wrapped rotors. I'm 49 and have been driving for over 30 years and know that feeling without even thinking about it. Just did the wife's Odyssey last weekend for exactly the same issue and she runs and brakes perfect now. No shake!
Since I do all my own work, I regularly check for wear in the items you mentioned Botaman, but all are tight and dry as they say. Just had an alignment done last week and they again checked everything and amazingly are still all good (all are ORIGINAL FACTORY installed). That's right; original FCABs, Control arms, tie rods, sway bar links, balljoints, etc. Car has 225,000km and they're checked for wear every 2-3 months whenever I'm under the car.... and by professionals I know that own their own shops......
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:29 PM   #47
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I don't think I'll ever repack an already torn CV boot again. I'd rather just replace the axle and presume the CV joint is toast than repack the boot only to have the joint fail anyway at a later date.
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:38 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Nachos23 View Post
To answer and respond...... The problem with the vibration is usually associated with inner CV joints being dry. Heard of similar issues with aftermarket axles. I was going to replace with FCP Groton parts, but will opt for local rebuild instead when time to avoid just such an issue. I would check the remaining suspension components for wear and/or play, but normally the vibration you're feeling is related to inner CV boots.... in fact this thread ws started due to that specific issue. Read the complete thread, you will see the efforts some have gone to identify and fix this issue. That is why I posted the update today. Many of spend HUGE $$$ to fix an elusive but otherwise easy fix. I was fortunate that my boots did not tear, only leak from seals, so clean, repack and reseal; DONE! The VERY minor vibration I still feel under full load, is likely due to the the CV joints being worn and exposed to elements for so long before being repaired.

As far as brakes are concerned. I absolutely have wrapped rotors. I'm 49 and have been driving for over 30 years and know that feeling without even thinking about it. Just did the wife's Odyssey last weekend for exactly the same issue and she runs and brakes perfect now. No shake!
Since I do all my own work, I regularly check for wear in the items you mentioned Botaman, but all are tight and dry as they say. Just had an alignment done last week and they again checked everything and amazingly are still all good (all are ORIGINAL FACTORY installed). That's right; original FCABs, Control arms, tie rods, sway bar links, balljoints, etc. Car has 225,000km and they're checked for wear every 2-3 months whenever I'm under the car.... and by professionals I know that own their own shops......
just cause they are original doesn't mean they aren't total ****. i agree the minor vibration is from your cv joints getting dry and worn and you not repacking them fast enough i just did my front axles at 130k. they started going bad and clicking around 80k so meh
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:23 PM   #49
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just cause they are original doesn't mean they aren't total ****. i agree the minor vibration is from your cv joints getting dry and worn and you not repacking them fast enough i just did my front axles at 130k. they started going bad and clicking around 80k so meh
I would agree entirely, except the mechanic whose shop I use for my bigger jobs, has checked the entire suspension and drivetrain from front to back; as have I separately and he says everything is tight. I went the following weekend and checked it all again myself; all tight. Just last weekend had a 4 wheel alignment done by one of the top alignment shops in the city (been around for 35 yrs; service all high-end vehicles) and they too said everything is tight + in spec. Inner CVs don't click usually, that's usually outter CVs, but my inner ones were binding after getting hot or when cold. I never heard ANY clicking sounds.

Might just swapout FCABs, Control arms and driveshafts in the spring (depending on tax refund amount) just because of age, but they are all working great! With the mods I've been doing, I've also had the entire front-end apart a few times and checked each piece individually then too (Nov)......

Unless there are further issues, going to do my front brakes this weekend the car should be perfect. The "floaty" feeling I had was resolved by the alignment.
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:57 AM   #50
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Sorry for the bump of an old thread But I'm having the exact same problem with my lowered 330xi.
Having a vibration under the same conditions, brand new tires, best alignment possible with the drop, all rims are balanced, passenger side cv axle has been replaced 3 times and the outer boot broke again last night.

A little more info on the repacking of the cv, are you referring to pretty much regreasing the joints?

Any help would be great..
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:44 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by VanNuys303 View Post
Sorry for the bump of an old thread But I'm having the exact same problem with my lowered 330xi.
Having a vibration under the same conditions, brand new tires, best alignment possible with the drop, all rims are balanced, passenger side cv axle has been replaced 3 times and the outer boot broke again last night.

A little more info on the repacking of the cv, are you referring to pretty much regreasing the joints?

Any help would be great..

The vibration you're experiencing is from the inside CV boots only. Outter boots cause binding, etc when turning. As far as inside boots are concerned, I got away with just re-packing inner boots, but you need to check for wear of the CV joint first. If it's badly worn from lack of grease (alot of play in CV once cleaned), then you're talking replacement, but I can tell you from having 180,000 miles and having repacked both innner and outter boots several times on mine (it's lowered too), the CVs are remarkably resiliant and you should hopefully be able to just re-pack (hopefully boot isn't torn, or you're pulling the axles to replace boot) and you should be fine. Check the specs on amount of grease to use. It's only like 90g (one small packet if you get the grease that way), so the boot isn't supposed to be completely packed with grease. Providing the CV joint isn't done, that should address your issue.
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:34 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Nachos23 View Post
The vibration you're experiencing is from the inside CV boots only. Outter boots cause binding, etc when turning. As far as inside boots are concerned, I got away with just re-packing inner boots, but you need to check for wear of the CV joint first. If it's badly worn from lack of grease (alot of play in CV once cleaned), then you're talking replacement, but I can tell you from having 180,000 miles and having repacked both innner and outter boots several times on mine (it's lowered too), the CVs are remarkably resiliant and you should hopefully be able to just re-pack (hopefully boot isn't torn, or you're pulling the axles to replace boot) and you should be fine. Check the specs on amount of grease to use. It's only like 90g (one small packet if you get the grease that way), so the boot isn't supposed to be completely packed with grease. Providing the CV joint isn't done, that should address your issue.
LIsten to this man he speaks the truth. Ive been there done that with the vibration thing.
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:31 AM   #53
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Guess what this weekend's project is?

Photobucket

The inner and left outter CV boot were covered under warranty when they failed. CPO warranty ran out in July, this one's on me.
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Old 12-05-2010, 10:33 AM   #54
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Just curious, did you check the motor mounts.
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Old 12-20-2010, 09:58 AM   #55
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Just curious, did you check the motor mounts.
Motor mounts are not typically the culprit for this type of issue. Bad motor mounts are usually noticable as a vibration @ idle. Did mine before this issue ocurred and had no effect on the vibration.

Good thing to check while you're down there anyway.
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Old 06-28-2014, 10:19 AM   #56
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im getting vibration in my steering wheel on my 330xi accelerating between 40-60 mph and breaking in the the 50 mph range. so i should check my my cv joints to?

i have had my wheels balanced and car aligned. i was thinking a bent tie rod?

thanks
Sorry to bring up an old thread...

Did you ever get this fixed ? I've replaced ball joints, cv axles and checked tie rods, it only occurs accelerating between 40-60 mph and breaking in the the 50 mph range also

I am at a loss
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Old 02-23-2017, 07:07 PM   #57
Bubbachukin
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Thats a control arm
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