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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 02-09-2017, 02:44 PM   #81
YoitsTmac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dknightd View Post
I can only assume your BMW wheels are suited to your BMW hubs. Apparently they changed these specs, I don't know when. Just trying to help. Apparently the new m2 are really good. It might be time to trade in.
Since all E46 brake rotors are compatible through all years, I assume that the bolt pattern/face didn't change and that I'm a go for these wheels. They may have been an option for preface too...
Not crazy about the M2...that and I'm only 19 without a career and a poor college student. If I had M2 money, there'd be a supercharged S65 under my hood for the ultimate sleeper
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:24 PM   #82
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I'm not sure how a new engine would solve your vibration problem
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:55 PM   #83
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I bet you can't solve this: Need thinking outside the box

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Originally Posted by dknightd View Post
I'm not sure how a new engine would solve your vibration problem

I don't believe buying a new car solves the problem either but rather just consider it a lost cause.

Last edited by YoitsTmac; 02-09-2017 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 02-09-2017, 05:20 PM   #84
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News flash, the vibration is coming from the rear and you haven't figured that out yet! Start by replacing all the different rear end suspension and wheel pieces.
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Old 02-09-2017, 08:00 PM   #85
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Took it up to 85, no wobble. Braked, loud hum and wobbled mildly. Considering all the work I did to the brakes, I think my rotors are the problem (I feel my pads have too much life to be unsalvagble. Front rotors were also REALLY hot. Awaiting to hear back from Bimmerworld if I should order Brembo or Zimmerman


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Old 02-09-2017, 08:54 PM   #86
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Get oem front rotars if you want to guarantee no headache. Theyre not that expensive. Think i got mine for 100.
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Old 02-09-2017, 08:58 PM   #87
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You do know the loud hum is likely from the slotted rotor, right?

This is NORMAL. You will not hear hum typically under 25 MPH with normal braking. Hard braking at speed will sound like you are driving on the roan on rumble strips.

You mentioned the the front brakes were "Really" hot. Not sure this statement can be quantified. Stopping a car turns the forward momentum into friction, then ultimately to heat dissipated by the brake pads and rotors. The pads and rotors will get hot, this is what they are supposed to do.

But between setting the brake pads on fire and the "Really" hot statement, I am starting to wonder if the brake calipers are dragging as well?
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Old 02-09-2017, 09:10 PM   #88
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Get oem front rotars if you want to guarantee no headache. Theyre not that expensive. Think i got mine for 100.

Who is the OEM??? I might go 330 brakes so might ditch the pads altogether

Fjoj - in the type of nerd that feels his brakes after most drives because I do understand the physics and whatnot. From what I saw on YouTube, a sticky caliper wouldn't allow me to easily spin the rotor, correct? Loud as in louder than my exhaust and would worry other drivers
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Old 02-09-2017, 09:20 PM   #89
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You should get an IR thermometer if you really want to check the temperature of the brakes. It's tricky, because how long have you driven after hard stopping do you check the temperature??

As for how loud is the noise, from in the cabin, it is loud.

I assume you may have the rumble strips on the side of the highway where you start to drift off, it causes a loud buzzing that you can hear both inside and outside the car.

Not sure if you can hear slotted rotor noise outside the car, but you can clearly hear it in the car and it louder than the exhaust in some cases. It may be more of a vibration that is transferred into the cabin.

I have not put a lot of time and effort into determining how you hear the noise, but I have 5 cars in my fleet that have either drilled and slotted or slotted rotors. Each one is a bit different how loud they are, but they all have some noise when stopping hard above 20-25 MPH, the faster you are driving, the faster the buzz/noise.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 02-09-2017, 11:45 PM   #90
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I usually feel after my commute. Yes, my observations aren't based on data, just observation,so they don't hold much water.

I hear what you're saying about rumble strips. All I can say is that they were never that loud. I did another break in and it seems to have quieted down to an acceptable volume, no noticeable wobble. I need to wait for it to dry up for me to confidently say the wobble is gone. Amazing what a little sanding can do.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
You should get an IR thermometer if you really want to check the temperature of the brakes. It's tricky, because how long have you driven after hard stopping do you check the temperature??

As for how loud is the noise, from in the cabin, it is loud.

I assume you may have the rumble strips on the side of the highway where you start to drift off, it causes a loud buzzing that you can hear both inside and outside the car.

Not sure if you can hear slotted rotor noise outside the car, but you can clearly hear it in the car and it louder than the exhaust in some cases. It may be more of a vibration that is transferred into the cabin.

I have not put a lot of time and effort into determining how you hear the noise, but I have 5 cars in my fleet that have either drilled and slotted or slotted rotors. Each one is a bit different how loud they are, but they all have some noise when stopping hard above 20-25 MPH, the faster you are driving, the faster the buzz/noise.
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Old 02-10-2017, 03:34 AM   #91
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(Didnt read the whole thread) have you thought of the front subframe? And for ME & my car meyle hd components beat oem and lemfoerder. I have r1 rotors as well theyre great for the cost


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Old 02-10-2017, 05:07 AM   #92
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(Didnt read the whole thread) have you thought of the front subframe? And for ME & my car meyle hd components beat oem and lemfoerder. I have r1 rotors as well theyre great for the cost
I've ended my FCAB journey with Z4M bushings. Solid rubber just like Meyle and BMW for the peace of mine. Looking back, there was probably nothing wrong with the Meyle's, but I did get OEM for cheaper ($20 lollipops, $55 for the bushings, free tool rental)

I have thought about it. Haven't tested it. That's the last thing I'd suspect. It seems like the issue is my brakes and is close to being resolved
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:14 AM   #93
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I've ended my FCAB journey with Z4M bushings. Solid rubber just like Meyle and BMW for the peace of mine. Looking back, there was probably nothing wrong with the Meyle's, but I did get OEM for cheaper ($20 lollipops, $55 for the bushings, free tool rental)



I have thought about it. Haven't tested it. That's the last thing I'd suspect. It seems like the issue is my brakes and is close to being resolved


Well thats wassup, peace of mind is priceless.


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Old 02-11-2017, 12:53 AM   #94
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Ok so I'm a complete noob to the E46 but I just fixed a similar issue. I noticed you didn't say you replace the control arms but just the bushings? If that is the case I had that same horrible wobble and even worse under breaking. The problem was the outer ball joint on my right control arm. It was shot and was literally allowing the wheel to wobble. I replace the entire control arm as the ball joints on my 323i can't be replaced. If you replaced them ignore me but if you didn't, I would be willing to bet that is the problem. Maybe the old bushing was compensating somehow? Or the alignment change just caused it to show up?
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:55 AM   #95
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Ok so I'm a complete noob to the E46 but I just fixed a similar issue. I noticed you didn't say you replace the control arms but just the bushings? If that is the case I had that same horrible wobble and even worse under breaking. The problem was the outer ball joint on my right control arm. It was shot and was literally allowing the wheel to wobble. I replace the entire control arm as the ball joints on my 323i can't be replaced. If you replaced them ignore me but if you didn't, I would be willing to bet that is the problem. Maybe the old bushing was compensating somehow? Or the alignment change just caused it to show up?
control arms are listed as the third thing I listed in original post
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Old 02-11-2017, 01:35 AM   #96
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Oh, sorry, must have missed it. While I have your attention since you have obviously done more work on E46s than me. Any advice on my axle replacement. Thread here -->http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1122436
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Old 02-21-2017, 11:18 AM   #97
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I suspect rotors, pads, and you from what you have explained.

Post #5, how's that coming?



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Old 02-21-2017, 12:37 PM   #98
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Post #5, how's that coming?



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Everything was worn, so everything seemed to be the culprit. I'm in stop go traffic constantly but am not heavy footed nor do I pulse brake. What can I do to combat any inconsistencies from my stop go? This is my only car I've had but I've never had the car where I needed to do anything to brakes bc of stop go traffic. I have the fix and will install this weekend and update.


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Old 03-24-2017, 09:43 PM   #99
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Wheels and tires... You changed the wheels, change em' back. Tires... something isn't right. You tried every fix but the MOST OBVIOUS one

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Old 03-30-2017, 12:10 PM   #100
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Wheels and tires... You changed the wheels, change em' back. Tires... something isn't right. You tried every fix but the MOST OBVIOUS one

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Not sure what you mean. Guess I should clarify. I went through multiple sets of good wheels and tires. The problem was in the brakes. Rotors were checked to the thousandth of an inch, the calipers weren't sticking, but replacing it all made the problem fade.
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