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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-29-2016, 09:23 PM   #81
DBLOCK1968
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Ok. Got it. I'm more than ready. I have done a few engine rebuilds before. But never a tranny. And I do understand how much more complex a tranny is. Hence I never tried doing one. But the time and money have now left me with no other choice. Even if I had the money, I'm very handy and have always refused to pay someone for something I can do. Also found this used bell housing pump assembly on eBay for $75
Check out the link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/134750AAK-5L...1Wr3uk&vxp=mtr

My question is. Should I try just the pump first since it'll be the hardest but cheaper of the 2? Or should I just go ahead and replace the valve body as well before putting the tranny back in? I do understand that the valve body can be replaced with the tranny in place after I do the pump and put the tranny back in. Just wondering if the pump went more likely than not the valve body and solenoids suffered as well. Just my theory. But looking to be either agreed with or corrected! Thanks again.
Btw. I did download the entire parts list for the whole tranny from the Cobra transmissions site. Great prices and inventory.

Last edited by DBLOCK1968; 02-29-2016 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 02-29-2016, 09:52 PM   #82
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Is it even cheaper to rebuild like that than to replace?) cuz i guess if its cheaper to replace why not go cheap as ****?) or manual swap) ?
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:14 PM   #83
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cwarel, A manual swap is my next option. The thing is I rather have all the parts at hand before attempting the manual swap. If I can fix what's wrong with the auto tranny and get her working again, that'll buy me time to save up to either do a full auto rebuild. Or a 100% correct manual swap. There's more than meets the eye for the manual swap. I've read a good 50 plus threads on the manual swap for this particular model car and tranny. No disrespect intended when I said correct. When I said correct I meant doing it with the end result being all computer issues addressed to the point it will think it was always a manual. And the only way anyone could tell would be by the VIN number. Many auto to manual swappers have just done the swap and once they got the car running didn't bother doing the electronics. I on the other hand couldn't do that to my bimmer. It'll have to be all the way or not at all.
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:46 PM   #84
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Cwarel, price some replacement transmissions, 4 to 6K is going rate for a rebuild job, they typically quote 1200 to 2500 then jack it up once it is open. It was out of the question for me for a car that wasn't worth 5K itself.
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:50 PM   #85
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D, thats a good deal of that pump is tested, that would be an easy swap, I will have to study the theory to see if the valve body can completely kill the pump pressure, generally valve bodies cause shifting issues or one gear missing like reverse, it is possible but I dont recall it off the top of my head. You are the reason why I wrote this DIY, sounds like we have similar backgrounds. Let me check the book and I will post back.
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Old 02-29-2016, 11:13 PM   #86
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ddaniel1, thanks so much. I will proceed with the pump and take from there. I'll keep checking in for your input and I'll post my results. Might be a few days to a week before I can. But I'll be here daily.
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Old 03-01-2016, 12:18 AM   #87
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D, there is a filter on the output of the pump, it may have clogged from your seafoam application, that seems likely, see the theory here on pg 33:
https://www.scribd.com/doc/135436060/5L40E-Manual
Search the manual for "loss of drive" to read more. Also, did you try manual mode? Some early e46 didn't have a manual shift mode, I would try it if your car has it to see if there are any different symptoms.
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Old 03-01-2016, 12:33 AM   #88
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ddaniel1. Thanks for you prompt reply. I don't think I have manual drive. All I have is the DSC which is traction control. I did try the DSC but nothing happened. What you just mentioned makes a lot of sense. Once I drop the tranny I will sure inspect the pump filter. And thank you for all your reference links. I will most definitely check them out. I'll post my findings. If you find any more info please post it. I'll be checking here all the time. Again. THANKS SO MUCH!
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Old 03-09-2016, 04:16 PM   #89
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ddaniel1, looks like I'm stuck. Got everything undone. But I can't get the tranny to slide back. I got enough room and got the 3 tork converter bolts. But the tranny will not slide back anymore. Seems to be stuck at the top somehow. Any ideas?
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:46 PM   #90
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D, count your bolts, it sounds like you missed one, it should come apart by wiggling the back of the transmission, if there isn't a gap check to see the you have all bolts out, when I get home I can send a pic of the bell housing showing where all the bolts are, you removed the starter bolts also?
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:49 PM   #91
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You tipped it back also? I use a engine lift bar and it helps to loosen motor mounts to get it to tilt more.
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:19 PM   #92
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ddaniel1, yes. I got all the bolts including starter bolts. 9 total. The problem was it was stuck on the starter set pin. It had built up quite a bit of corrosion. Other than that the bell housing spacer was caught behind the flywheel. It has some sort of clip that attaches to the bell housing with a 10mm bolt. I finally got the tranny out. Removed the tork converter and I have her standing up vertically. Removed all 7 13mm bolts that secure the bell housing to the tranny. Now need to know what else is holding the bell housing in. Thanks!
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:21 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBLOCK1968 View Post
ddaniel1, looks like I'm stuck. Got everything undone. But I can't get the tranny to slide back. I got enough room and got the 3 tork converter bolts. But the tranny will not slide back anymore. Seems to be stuck at the top somehow. Any ideas?
Sometimes the starter wants to stay stuck on the dowel pin so make sure that's loose. There's also the little 10mm bolt on the engine side near the exhaust headers. It secures the dust protection plate to the transmission.
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i'd rather be gapless with no bulge
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:22 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBLOCK1968 View Post
ddaniel1, yes. I got all the bolts including starter bolts. 9 total. The problem was it was stuck on the starter set pin. It had built up quite a bit of corrosion. Other than that the bell housing spacer was caught behind the flywheel. It has some sort of clip that attaches to the bell housing with a 10mm bolt. I finally got the tranny out. Removed the tork converter and I have her standing up vertically. Removed all 7 13mm bolts that secure the bell housing to the tranny. Now need to know what else is holding the bell housing in. Thanks!
Looks like you already got it and it was exactly those two things I mentioned. Chalk one up to experience.
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i'd rather be gapless with no bulge
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:27 PM   #95
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cyberkaa, thanks for your reply. I took my time and carefully inspected around the whole tranny with a bright flashlight and found out it was that clip with the 10mm bolt that wasn't letting me pull her out the rest of the way. Now I'm stuck in removing the bell housing. Any idea what's holding it in after removing the 7 13mm bolts? Thanks again!
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:42 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBLOCK1968 View Post
cyberkaa, thanks for your reply. I took my time and carefully inspected around the whole tranny with a bright flashlight and found out it was that clip with the 10mm bolt that wasn't letting me pull her out the rest of the way. Now I'm stuck in removing the bell housing. Any idea what's holding it in after removing the 7 13mm bolts? Thanks again!
No problem. I've posted about that same 10mm bolt earlier when another forum member had the same issue. It grabs a lot harder than you'd think! The clip is for securing a wiring loom, btw, in case yours wasn't in place.

Did you pull the shaft o-ring out before trying to pull the bell housing?
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:45 PM   #97
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cyberkaa, yes, I took the o ring out. But the bell housing only moves up about 3/4 inch. Doesn't even make it to where the o ring was.

Last edited by DBLOCK1968; 03-09-2016 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 03-09-2016, 07:08 PM   #98
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Is your filter still installed? If so remove it. The neck of the filter interferes with the pump/bell housing coming off.

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Old 03-09-2016, 07:08 PM   #99
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cyberkaa, yes, I took the o ring out. But the bell housing only moves up about 3/4 inch. Doesn't even make it to where the o ring was.
That's interesting. I'm not an expert in auto trans disassembly, so I'll wait for the OP to chime in. The video in the first post was very helpful though, even if it's slightly different. I'd go back over the first few steps and make sure you got all of that out of the way first, particularly dropping the pan and removing all of that stuff.
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i'd rather be gapless with no bulge

Last edited by cyberkaa; 03-09-2016 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 03-09-2016, 07:11 PM   #100
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Ok. Thanks! I'm not ready to rebuild the entire tranny yet. Just need to get to the pump cause that seems to be the problem.

Last edited by DBLOCK1968; 03-09-2016 at 07:11 PM.
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