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Old 08-12-2013, 11:45 PM   #21
DillonMpower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beasted86 View Post
I think I agree with a previous poster about the "perceived" effects of these repairs and what you see as a problem. I hope you don't take offense to this, but I have a hard time believing you that your car ran as smooth as butter with lean engine fault codes, 174k miles, needing a drive shaft flex disc, control arm bushings and obviously other repairs.

I think the poly transmission mounts are indeed adding more vibration than your worn rubber mounts... but the other problems were always there but you were just now looking harder after a recent repair.
no offense taken, but i strongly believe this is not the extra vibration that everyone talks about because i feel this vibration when i am stationary, with the clutch fully disengaged. just reving it does not feel right slightly slower when reving the engine to redline. another reason i think this is a vacc leak because the vibration is at its max passing 2000-2200 rpm. it still vibrates more then it should through out the rev band but thats where it is at its max.

last i didnt have any lean codes. P0491& P0492 are secondary intake failure this is only used on start up to warm the cats for emissions. plenty of people fix this using a relay instead of actually fixing the problem. and i have been driving on that code for a month and a half maybe more with no problems what so ever.
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:49 PM   #22
DillonMpower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwtaylorpdx View Post
There are several tubes, pipes etc down near the motor mounts that can cause bad run-ability issues..

The problem with forums from the mechanics perspective is that they vary so much in accuracy..
I get the same crap all the time if I fix someones computer,, I change a power supply,, and a week
later they have a virus and blame me.. I totally gave up helping anybody on computer repairs..

Its all relative,, I vote vacume leak and possibly a disturbed connection somewhere..

Dave
thank you dave. so as it stand i have engine mounts on the way, so theres one possible fix. i am going to order exhaust gaskets tomorrow. what next if those do not work. the pipes near the motor mounts, do they use gaskets as well that i can swap out ?
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:42 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DillonMpower View Post
last i didnt have any lean codes. P0491& P0492 are secondary intake failure this is only used on start up to warm the cats for emissions. plenty of people fix this using a relay instead of actually fixing the problem. and i have been driving on that code for a month and a half maybe more with no problems what so ever.
Although P0491 & P0492 are SAP codes, the most common problem on the pre 2004 cars is bad vacuum hose that runs from the Combi valve to the SAP control solenoid that is located under the rear of the intake.

If this hose is bad, it will not cause lean codes, but can cause cold start misfiring and idle stability issues.

But also keep in mind that the ONLY way the DME knows the airpump is actually working is by the way the O2 sensors behave in the first 90 seconds or so. If post O2 sensor wiring was mixed up, you can have some really strange things happen and it is usually the last thing considered as a problem.
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Last edited by jfoj; 08-13-2013 at 06:47 AM.
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:36 PM   #24
aldeghij
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If you knew as much as a mechanic, you'd realize how riddled with garbage and misinformation these (and other) forums are. I would be willing to bet that less than 8% of posts on here are useful, and that's in the tech forums... not OT. If he's been a mechanic for 30+ years, he can afford to lose you as a client... you may be able to afford to lose him too, I don't know.
I agree that there is a lot of bad info on Forums, however I doubt that 92% of posts are useless. Most of the problems w/ my car have been fixed by me, based on info I found on these forums. In fact, the one time I gave up on trying to find a solution on the forums and took my car to a shop, they misdiagnosed the problem and it cost me $1500 I didn't need to spend. I even got 2nd and 3rd opinions, which were also wrong. Maybe it's just my area, but I haven't been able to find a decent indy that doesn't charge an arm and leg + first born. And yes, i'm aware that you get what you pay for.

The thing with forums is you gotta do more research, and not just believe the first person who gives advice. It's important to spend some time reading.... The more time you spend on here, the more you realize that there are certain contributors who consistently provide good advice, and certain ones who don't. Then there are some who provide suggestions with good intentions, but don't necessarily have enough experience to be taken as gospel (I would be in this category, since I'm somewhat of a newb still). My 2 cents.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:17 PM   #25
2003 325i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aldeghij View Post
I agree that there is a lot of bad info on Forums, however I doubt that 92% of posts are useless. Most of the problems w/ my car have been fixed by me, based on info I found on these forums. In fact, the one time I gave up on trying to find a solution on the forums and took my car to a shop, they misdiagnosed the problem and it cost me $1500 I didn't need to spend. I even got 2nd and 3rd opinions, which were also wrong. Maybe it's just my area, but I haven't been able to find a decent indy that doesn't charge an arm and leg + first born. And yes, i'm aware that you get what you pay for.

The thing with forums is you gotta do more research, and not just believe the first person who gives advice. It's important to spend some time reading.... The more time you spend on here, the more you realize that there are certain contributors who consistently provide good advice, and certain ones who don't. Then there are some who provide suggestions with good intentions, but don't necessarily have enough experience to be taken as gospel (I would be in this category, since I'm somewhat of a newb still). My 2 cents.
I was being generous at 92% garbage, probably closer to 97% lol.

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Old 08-13-2013, 07:37 PM   #26
DillonMpower
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Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Although P0491 & P0492 are SAP codes, the most common problem on the pre 2004 cars is bad vacuum hose that runs from the Combi valve to the SAP control solenoid that is located under the rear of the intake.

If this hose is bad, it will not cause lean codes, but can cause cold start misfiring and idle stability issues.

But also keep in mind that the ONLY way the DME knows the airpump is actually working is by the way the O2 sensors behave in the first 90 seconds or so. If post O2 sensor wiring was mixed up, you can have some really strange things happen and it is usually the last thing considered as a problem.
I c, said the blind man. so in theory if that vacuum hose went bad would cause it be rough throughout the whole rev band ?

so i will add that to the list of things to buy so far, engine mounts (poly of course), exhaust seals, and that vacuum hose. i will fallow up in a week or so with the results.

if these are the problems is it going to hurt the car to drive on it ?
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DillonMpower View Post
I c, said the blind man. so in theory if that vacuum hose went bad would cause it be rough throughout the whole rev band ?
No, the SAP vacuum control is only active beyond the SAP control solenoid for usually for the first 90 seconds on cold start.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DillonMpower View Post
if these are the problems is it going to hurt the car to drive on it ?
SAP problems are not a major problem to continue to drive on. May cause codes and some rough cold starting issues.

BTW, vacuum leaks usually only cause problems at idle and lower RPM lightly loaded conditions, as the engine RPM and throttle angle increase vacuum leaks become much less of an issue.

You have to rule out misfiring, which "usually" is flagged by the DME with trouble codes and a CEL and a mechanical vibration.

You likely will need someone locally to drive the car and experience the issues first hand for a 2nd opinion. It is very difficult to diagnose some things over the Internet.

Proper diagnostics and elimination of issues needs to be carried out in a methodical manner.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 08-13-2013, 09:18 PM   #28
DillonMpower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
No, the SAP vacuum control is only active beyond the SAP control solenoid for usually for the first 90 seconds on cold start.



SAP problems are not a major problem to continue to drive on. May cause codes and some rough cold starting issues.

BTW, vacuum leaks usually only cause problems at idle and lower RPM lightly loaded conditions, as the engine RPM and throttle angle increase vacuum leaks become much less of an issue.

You have to rule out misfiring, which "usually" is flagged by the DME with trouble codes and a CEL and a mechanical vibration.

You likely will need someone locally to drive the car and experience the issues first hand for a 2nd opinion. It is very difficult to diagnose some things over the Internet.

Proper diagnostics and elimination of issues needs to be carried out in a methodical manner.

calling all socal fanatics. anyone willing to confirm the engine wobble issue ?

"BTW, vacuum leaks usually only cause problems at idle and lower RPM lightly loaded conditions, as the engine RPM and throttle angle increase vacuum leaks become much less of an issue."

this scares me, because this vibration does not go away regardless of where i am in the rev band or how much throttle i give it. the only time i see a difference is once its warm and cruising at 3000 rpm, it almost feels the normal smoothness but it is slightly louder
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:31 AM   #29
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Time to backtrack and get someone to inspect the car. If the exhaust was disturbed I would focus on this first based upon your comments.

Pay careful attention to the center exhaust hanger.

Test drive and inspection is what is required.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 08-14-2013, 09:53 AM   #30
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An engine wobble that is caused by broken engine mounts is very different from what is caused by rough running. If your mechanic has 30+ years of experience, this should be really easy for him to diagnose. Unlike us, he actually gets to see the car.
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:26 AM   #31
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Proper diagnostic methodology is vital. If you take the shotgun approach and replace a bunch of parts, you may get lucky and fix the problem. However, you won't know which part fixed it and if you have the same problem somewhere down the road, you won't know what to fix. So, let your mechanic do his job. You'll then know exactly what caused the problem and you'll save money on parts.

Having said that, my money is on the motor mounts. Your engine may have felt as smooth as butter before you had the work done, but consider you had the drive train sitting on mounts of the same material and age. It's likely that any vibration may have been absorbed/hidden by the older mounts. Replacing one mount with a mount of harder material radically changes the dynamics of how vibration is handled and felt. Even with the clutch disengaged, the engine and the tranny are still connected and the new tranny mount is no longer absorbing any engine vibration (or the amount of vibration handled/absorbed by the tranny mount is reduced).

Last edited by radaddict; 08-14-2013 at 11:30 AM.
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:02 PM   #32
DillonMpower
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UPDATE 8/17/2013

so i have yet to receive my parts. BUT MY CAR IS DEAD

today i was driving to my brothers place. after i got there i ran upstairs to drop something off, i got back to my car, turned it on and .... it bogged out. i figured my batterie was dead (i had been doing short drives all day.) i called my brother he came and jumped me. the car would crank, turn on for 2 or 3 seconds then turn off. and when it did turn on it would run EXTREMELY rough miss firing like crazy then bog out. i checked the code and a new one popped up (the old ones where P0491 and P0492) P0340. after trying to get the car to stay on (giving it gas upon start up, and checking to see if there was anything clogging the air intake) the would even stay on, it would just click. i replaced my camshaft position sensor about 6 to 8 months ago. any other ideas? i spoke to the mechanic today he said spray break cleaner into the intake and if that doesn't work then is it the fuel pump.
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:27 PM   #33
daves325in2012
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Fuel Pump all day

My car did a crank, then die, then a crank then die and would eventually start for 10 seconds if I let it sit for a half hr, then wouldnt work at all.

So I call my ride, and low and behold i start it and I drive it home just as I was about to give up on it, which was another hour after it originally died at startup

Now, I go to start it next morning, it starts fine, drive to the store, come back, it starts, then dies again

FML, so then I had to wait a week to get the new Fuel Pump and it runs amazing after the change.

Mine died at 140k and about 9 years of life

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Old 08-17-2013, 08:30 PM   #34
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Okay, I didn't want to be quick to judge your mechanic before.... but he is an idiot if he indeed suggested to spray brake cleaner into your intake. You need starter fluid, not brake cleaner. Brake cleaner has a pretty high flash point in comparison to gasoline. Gasoline is around -40* F, starter fluid is around -49* F.... brake clean is around 0* F. I'm not sure if this makes any sense to you.

My point is, find a new good mechanic, then sue your old mechanic if your your new good mechanic says something he did has caused the problems with your car.... because he is clearly not very technical.
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:31 PM   #35
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Take the backseat out and smack the pump, it may get it going.
Otherwise check fuel at the fuel rail, or measure fuel pressure to verify.
I was just thinking that about the brake cleaner.
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:33 PM   #36
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Forum info, bonehead mechanics.

It's a dead heat.




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Old 08-17-2013, 08:40 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavi Mike View Post
It's hard to tell if you're over-reacting or if there's genuinely a problem. For starters, of course the car is gonna vibrate more. There's a reason why bushings are made of rubber - to isolate vibration from the cabin. If you're not ready to experience vibrations - why did you get poly bushings?

As far as you saying "car doesn't rev as fast" while at the same time saying "performance isn't hindered" and then saying something as ignorant as "felt like I was running with no oil" all I can gather is that you really don't have any idea what you're talking about. I feel sorry for your mechanic because he has to deal with someone like you.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:21 AM   #38
DillonMpower
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Originally Posted by daves325in2012 View Post
Fuel Pump all day

My car did a crank, then die, then a crank then die and would eventually start for 10 seconds if I let it sit for a half hr, then wouldnt work at all.

So I call my ride, and low and behold i start it and I drive it home just as I was about to give up on it, which was another hour after it originally died at startup

Now, I go to start it next morning, it starts fine, drive to the store, come back, it starts, then dies again

FML, so then I had to wait a week to get the new Fuel Pump and it runs amazing after the change.

Mine died at 140k and about 9 years of life

do you think the fuel pump dying would cause that harshness from the engine that I start feeling 5 days ago? we thought it was the mounts, what if that was the first sign of the fuel pump failing. how much did that run you?
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:33 AM   #39
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Forum info, bonehead mechanics.

It's a dead heat.

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Old 08-18-2013, 05:07 AM   #40
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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