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This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 06-25-2015, 03:17 PM   #81
UROpartsman
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I greatly appreciate the positive feedback from many of you in this thread.

As far as lubricants go our engineer recommended one called Krytox from Dupont, but it's pretty pricey. Has anyone tried it?
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Old 07-01-2015, 08:51 PM   #82
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Does anyone with chronic power window issues like these smoke? Or for some other reason often drive around with windows down in unusual conditions like when it's raining?
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:22 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by UROpartsman View Post
I greatly appreciate the positive feedback from many of you in this thread.

As far as lubricants go our engineer recommended one called Krytox from Dupont, but it's pretty pricey. Has anyone tried it?
2 problems.

#1 - Engineers, they do not typically have much real world experience and often expect/take things WAY over the top. As you mention Krytox is $$$$.

#2 - Krytox is a grease! Where are you going to apply grease in the window tracks or on the gaskets that will not make a mess?? This is why I am looking either a spray silicon, spray silicon with PTFE or a spray PTFE. What I need to see is what kind of residue/hydrocarbons is in the spray mix.

I will have some some Dupont Silicon with PTFE and Dupont spray PTFE hopefully next week.
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Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:58 AM   #84
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As jfoj has already mentioned, you definitely don't want to get Krytox anywhere near the window glass. It will make a mess and be a PITA to remove.

Krytox, however, is fantastic for maintaining rubber seals away from windows. I use it on my wife's Eos; the convertible top has a bunch of seals and six years later they're still in great shape.
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Old 07-02-2015, 10:06 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by UROpartsman View Post
I greatly appreciate the positive feedback from many of you in this thread.

As far as lubricants go our engineer recommended one called Krytox from Dupont, but it's pretty pricey. Has anyone tried it?

Like this ?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWLDALQ/..._DmvLvb2VBQC4F
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Old 07-02-2015, 10:09 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
2 problems.



#1 - Engineers, they do not typically have much real world experience and often expect/take things WAY over the top. As you mention Krytox is $$$$.



#2 - Krytox is a grease! Where are you going to apply grease in the window tracks or on the gaskets that will not make a mess?? This is why I am looking either a spray silicon, spray silicon with PTFE or a spray PTFE. What I need to see is what kind of residue/hydrocarbons is in the spray mix.



I will have some some Dupont Silicon with PTFE and Dupont spray PTFE hopefully next week.

What does BMW use?
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Old 07-02-2015, 10:11 AM   #87
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I have a hard time believing any engineer recommended Krytox for lubing these things. It's absurdly expensive.

BTW, JFOJ a grease is exactly what you're looking for. Silicone will not last. Greases don't spontaneously go everywhere and get on **** so mess isn't really a concern.
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Old 07-02-2015, 10:36 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WDE46 View Post
I have a hard time believing any engineer recommended Krytox for lubing these things. It's absurdly expensive.

BTW, JFOJ a grease is exactly what you're looking for. Silicone will not last. Greases don't spontaneously go everywhere and get on **** so mess isn't really a concern.
I am not looking for a grease and DO NOT want a grease.

There is NO WAY I would ever put a grease in a window track or even on the gaskets.

Grease will attract dirt and hold dirt, I have no problem reapplying something as necessary, this will be needed when a vehicle becomes 5+ years old.

But it is also about CLEANING as well as lubricating. Quite often I wipe down the gaskets and mating surfaces usually with something like a towel with Windex or something with Ammonia to cut greases and oils as well as remove dirt and any of the top layers of rubber that have started to break down.

Then in the past I have typically used a spray silicon, however, PTFE based products are more readily available then they were many years ago.

All it takes is a wipe down of the gasket surfaces and mating surfaces to see the residue that you clean off to get an idea as what is going on.

I see there are 3 areas to focus on.

1. Rubber sealing gasket surfaces.

2. Window guides, on sedans and wagons, these are present, on coupes and convertibles these are not present.

3. Window regulators and slides in the door.

For #1 & #2, there should be no grease IMHO.

For #3 I would expect that the window regulator to be pre-lubricated from the vendor and if any additional lubrication is required that cannot be put in the correct location, the vendor should probably provide a small, single use portion of the proper lubrication.

For coupes and convertibles the vertical guide rails in the doors may need some form of grease, however, I really do not see problems with the coupe and convertible window regulators, so I think these models are not part of the focus here.

So this pretty much leaves area #1 and #2 as the main area focus.

I would expect the vertical window guides to hold the PTFE better than sealing gaskets. Also not having to work on a sedan or wagon with a failed regulator, it is unclear if the vertical slide channel material wears out, bunches up, shrinks or shifts and becomes tight over time. Or does the window cock in the vertical guide channels for some reason.

I think manually raising the window up and down with your hand while the regulator is out of the door would be quite telling as to what may be going on.

Seems the problems are mostly with "breaking" the window loose for opening, kind of like getting a stuck window open in your house that has not been opened for a long time. It often takes a lot of effort and energy.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 07-02-2015, 11:17 AM   #89
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Originally Posted by zander271 View Post
Trust me, you don't want that stuff on glass. That's the same Krytox version I use on our Eos, and I accidentally got some on a window. It's made from inert PTFE so normal cleaning agents are nearly useless.
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Old 07-02-2015, 11:51 AM   #90
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Trust me, you don't want that stuff on glass. That's the same Krytox version I use on our Eos, and I accidentally got some on a window. It's made from inert PTFE so normal cleaning agents are nearly useless.
Gotcha.

Ok after using "the Google" it seems that a lot of people are using White lithium grease.
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Old 07-02-2015, 04:10 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zander271 View Post
Gotcha.

Ok after using "the Google" it seems that a lot of people are using White lithium grease.
What are people using grease on? The window regulator or the guide channels and gaskets?

I really must be missing something because there should be no additional grease required for a window regulator or and not any used on the guide tracks or gaskets.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299

Last edited by jfoj; 07-02-2015 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 07-02-2015, 04:20 PM   #92
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I sprayed White Lithium grease on all the moving parts of the window regulator only.
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Old 07-02-2015, 04:36 PM   #93
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[QUOTE=UROpartsman]First off, thank you taking the time to write me! The URO team is made up of passionate enthusiasts such as yourself, and we definitely understand where you're coming from.

We recently developed our "URO Premium" brand to accomplish exactly what you're talking about***********: provide replacement parts that are superior to OEM at a reasonable price. Our URO Premium window regulators accomplish this, as well as our URO Premium metal engine pulleys, aluminum t-stat housings, etc. However, 99% of our product line is not engineered to be superior to OEM. These parts are designed to be comparable to OEM for less money, creating great value for the DIY enthusiast. However, the cost savings is not due to the use of inferior materials or shoddy manufacturing (at least not since we expanded our QC capabilities several years ago). We're able to offer low prices because our reproduction parts don't require years of expensive R&D to develop and validate, which original equipment manufacturers must recoup in the form of high retail prices.

Have we failed to provide acceptable quality on some products over the years due to inadequate materials testing and manufacturing QC? The answer is undoubtedly yes. Have we improved in these areas and fixed many, many quality issues? I can say with 100% certainty, a resounding YES! In the last few years we have made drastic company changes and have spent a fortune revamping our product line. Today we have seven full-time mechanical and electrical engineers, a material testing laboratory, an arsenal of life-cycle and destructive testing equipment, and a complete library of OEM samples to test against.

As a company, URO cares more than you can imagine. We don't want any of our products to fail prematurely, and if there's an inherent problem causing a failure we're going to do our damndest to fix it. But at the end of the day, our standard products are for commuters who just want a good part at a low cost. For serious enthusiasts who demand the highest quality at any price, we're proud to offer the URO Premium line. Hopefully the difference will be clear to our potential customers, and whichever URO part they choose will satisfy their budget and expectations.

Again, thank you for your candid feedback. Please feel free to contact me if I can be of assistance to you or another forum member.

Last edited by glhx; 07-02-2015 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 07-02-2015, 04:55 PM   #94
WDE46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
I am not looking for a grease and DO NOT want a grease.



There is NO WAY I would ever put a grease in a window track or even on the gaskets.



Grease will attract dirt and hold dirt, I have no problem reapplying something as necessary, this will be needed when a vehicle becomes 5+ years old.



But it is also about CLEANING as well as lubricating. Quite often I wipe down the gaskets and mating surfaces usually with something like a towel with Windex or something with Ammonia to cut greases and oils as well as remove dirt and any of the top layers of rubber that have started to break down.



Then in the past I have typically used a spray silicon, however, PTFE based products are more readily available then they were many years ago.



All it takes is a wipe down of the gasket surfaces and mating surfaces to see the residue that you clean off to get an idea as what is going on.



I see there are 3 areas to focus on.



1. Rubber sealing gasket surfaces.



2. Window guides, on sedans and wagons, these are present, on coupes and convertibles these are not present.



3. Window regulators and slides in the door.



For #1 & #2, there should be no grease IMHO.



For #3 I would expect that the window regulator to be pre-lubricated from the vendor and if any additional lubrication is required that cannot be put in the correct location, the vendor should probably provide a small, single use portion of the proper lubrication.



For coupes and convertibles the vertical guide rails in the doors may need some form of grease, however, I really do not see problems with the coupe and convertible window regulators, so I think these models are not part of the focus here.



So this pretty much leaves area #1 and #2 as the main area focus.



I would expect the vertical window guides to hold the PTFE better than sealing gaskets. Also not having to work on a sedan or wagon with a failed regulator, it is unclear if the vertical slide channel material wears out, bunches up, shrinks or shifts and becomes tight over time. Or does the window cock in the vertical guide channels for some reason.



I think manually raising the window up and down with your hand while the regulator is out of the door would be quite telling as to what may be going on.



Seems the problems are mostly with "breaking" the window loose for opening, kind of like getting a stuck window open in your house that has not been opened for a long time. It often takes a lot of effort and energy.

I was only recommending grease for the window regulators. They are in a relatively sealed environment and won't get the opportunity to gather much grime. Any wet lubricant will get dust in it even silicone.

Btw Why are we talking about gaskets?
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:15 PM   #95
jfoj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WDE46 View Post
Btw Why are we talking about gaskets?
Window and DOOR gaskets, at least.

The coupes and convertibles have gaskets on the top and rear edge of the door glass, all models have door gaskets. The exterior of the window guides in sedans/wagons have a rubber outer edge, at least this is the way my E39 is configured. I need to look closely at the inside of the window guides to see if there is rubber or if it transitions quickly to the felt type of guide trim.

Also not sure if the sedans/wagons have the upper gasket with the pinch protection for the Auto Up feature?? I have to look really close at my E39.

You have to realize I have 2 convertibles, the E46 and a 2003 VW Beetle so I have a lot of rubber to deal with. Even without sticking windows, I have squeaky/itchy gaskets that need to be treated as well.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:47 PM   #96
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I thought BMW gummifledge was always the product of choice for that.
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:24 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by WDE46 View Post
I thought BMW gummifledge was always the product of choice for that.

We have been discussing the issue in the following thread:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1079371
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:59 PM   #98
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One of my rear uro premium regulators went bad yesterday. Luckily still have my old one which still works. The URO Premium regulator went bad in less than 3 months.
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:39 PM   #99
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I emailed Uro on friday and got a reply back pretty much 15 mins after I emailed in. They said that they would be more than happy to send in another window regulator on monday and that they saw my post on this thread. The person I talked to guessed exactly where my regulator failed and they are actually in the process of improving the pulley so the cable doesn't have a chance of slipping off like it did on mine.


I just got off the phone with a rep at Uro Parts and he let me know that they are sending the part in today. Overall very happy with the customer support!

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Old 07-27-2015, 03:42 PM   #100
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Bleh that blows...I just bought one of these. Hopefully it lasts a decent amount of time.
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