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Old 02-05-2017, 05:00 AM   #41
zander271
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If you can get both sides that would be great if not we can start with the outside.


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Old 02-05-2017, 05:03 AM   #42
YoitsTmac
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I can do that. Not too much extra work just a torx


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Old 02-06-2017, 01:16 AM   #43
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Zander. I had my morning appointment and then some family issues arose today. I didn't have time to work on the car. I will get you photos as soon as I can (weekday's coming). I will PM you if that's best for you, I can't wait to hear what you have to say.
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Old 02-06-2017, 01:38 AM   #44
niklecce123
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Originally Posted by YoitsTmac View Post
Zander. I had my morning appointment and then some family issues arose today. I didn't have time to work on the car. I will get you photos as soon as I can (weekday's coming). I will PM you if that's best for you, I can't wait to hear what you have to say.
Same because it seems like we're having the same issue. Within the last 6 months, I have replaced the struts and shocks with Bilstein B4s.
Control arms & ball joints replaced with OEM parts, CAB as well.
I also have slotted rotors up front and they make a weird humming noise upon slightly heavy breaking. The shop just told me it was 3 bent wheels when I had them check for bad tie rods. This is getting ridiculous already!!
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Old 02-06-2017, 04:08 PM   #45
YoitsTmac
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All original resolution brake photos (and wheel bearing test videos) can be found at: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/u0apl7uc4...PTWkdtRwa?dl=0

When I tested the wheel bearing on the passenger side, it made an odd ticking noise. Then I tightened the allen a bit more and it went away
I do believe this means my bearings are fine, right? They didn't make any noise at all
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Old 02-07-2017, 02:54 AM   #46
YoitsTmac
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ttt?
Wheel bearings were quiet on inspection
rack bolts triple checked
Photos of brakes in previous post (Zander?)
Caliper temps seem consistent after drives...
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Old 02-07-2017, 06:02 AM   #47
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Based on your DropBox pictures, your rotors may be on the wrong side??

Usually the grove near the hub enters under the pad first from what I have seen on many rotors, however, this can vary depending on the vendor.

See the videos and link below. In reality the rotor position is really a function of the internal vane curve, if the vanes are curved, but if the internal vanes are radially straight out from the center of the rotor, then in general it kind of does not matter, however, I always see slotted rotors with the leading edge of the slot closest to the center of the rotor if this makes sense. More like in the videos.

If the internal vanes in the rotor are straight and not curved, you might just swap the rotors side to side and see what happens, if the internal vanes are curved, you need to have the curves in the correct direction. I find the MAJORITY of the brake systems I work on that have slotted, drilled or slotted & drilled rotors the inner most edge of the slot or hole touches the brake pad first when turning in the direction the car is moving forward.

This may or may not be part of your problem??

Here is a one way some manufacturers rotors may be installed - https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Path=6446_6515

This is how I usually see slotted rotor direction installation:




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Last edited by jfoj; 02-07-2017 at 06:11 AM.
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Old 02-07-2017, 10:28 AM   #48
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I bet you can't solve this: Need thinking outside the box

Well there are 2 things. Rotors are backwards and you have pad build up on your rotors. Flip your rotors and then take your car out to a back road and bed your pads . Was this done?

Get up to 45 slow down 10 mph without locking the brakes up. Then 50 and then 60 3 times. If the shuttering goes away it was just pad build up.

Make sure you drive on a road without having to use your brakes allowing them to cool down.

If the shuddering comes back get new pads because they are now uneven and will slowly put pad residue bacon your rotors.


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Last edited by zander271; 02-07-2017 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 02-07-2017, 12:00 PM   #49
Geo31
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Remember that the side the rotor goes on depends upon the vanes, NOT any machining on/in the surface. The leading edge of the vane should be at the hub, not at the OD or the rotor. That said, the slots may be cut wrong.
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Old 02-07-2017, 07:16 PM   #50
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I bet you can't solve this: Need thinking outside the box

Hey guys. Thanks for all your comments. Before I say anything, I want to say I just did 85 with very little wobble. The caster difference was a big contributor.

I have a photo back in June of my wheel, and I had the slots facing the correct direction. That being said, I probably put them on the wrong side either when I was sanding the mating surfaces or when I took my brakes back after swapping with a friend. When switching them back, should I bring the pads along too? I will make sure to keep note of the internal vein direction, but I believe they're straight.

I bedded my pads when I switched from ceramic to my PDF-Z pads. They actually caught fire during bed in.

It may be worth re-swapping brakes now that my caster is correct to see if that corrects my problem. I will also rebed the pads. Hopefully school will be cancelled tomorrow so I can do it tomorrow

Thanks so so much you guys

Edit: I hate R1. I would not be surprised if they were cut wrong


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Last edited by YoitsTmac; 02-07-2017 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 02-07-2017, 07:31 PM   #51
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I bedded my pads when I switched from ceramic to my PDF-Z pads. They actually caught fire during bed in.
WTF were you doing to get the pads to catch on fire?? This is not bedding brakes, this is SEVERE competition driving where the rotors and pads would be discarded after those conditions!
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Old 02-07-2017, 07:36 PM   #52
YoitsTmac
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WTF were you doing to get the pads to catch on fire?? This is not bedding brakes, this is SEVERE competition driving where the rotors and pads would be discarded after those conditions!
I used the instructions from my ceramic pads. I believe it was two stops 45-10 and about four stops 60-10. I mean, I was shocked too but I assume that that is roughly a normal bed in procedure?
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Old 02-07-2017, 08:12 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by YoitsTmac View Post
I used the instructions from my ceramic pads. I believe it was two stops 45-10 and about four stops 60-10. I mean, I was shocked too but I assume that that is roughly a normal bed in procedure?
Yeah the procedure sounds normal but not the fire lol
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Old 02-07-2017, 08:26 PM   #54
Megalocnus
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Brake pads shouldn't catch fire.
Was any type of anti-squeal product applied and which one?
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:40 PM   #55
YoitsTmac
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Yeah the procedure sounds normal but not the fire lol
I'm telling you, it's just my luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Megalocnus View Post
Brake pads shouldn't catch fire.
Was any type of anti-squeal product applied and which one?
No products used

Thanks again for all the comments. Weather has actually been super bad. All schools cancelled. If it's this bad I won't want to work on the car





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Old 02-07-2017, 10:10 PM   #56
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I used the instructions from my ceramic pads. I believe it was two stops 45-10 and about four stops 60-10. I mean, I was shocked too but I assume that that is roughly a normal bed in procedure?
Sounds like the procedure I used but I slowed gradually to 10 mph, haven't had any issues even with ceramics.
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Old 02-07-2017, 11:11 PM   #57
Jason325xi
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Originally Posted by YoitsTmac View Post
I'm telling you, it's just my luck!



No products used

Thanks again for all the comments. Weather has actually been super bad. All schools cancelled. If it's this bad I won't want to work on the car





TM
Why not?! Just break out the scuba gear lol

And like jmo69 said, he gradually went from 60-10mph. Were you going from 60-10mph as fast as you could? I know you said you switched rotors with your buddy and there was no difference but if the pads literally lit on fire i feel like that's rotor warping type of heat.
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Old 02-08-2017, 02:48 AM   #58
YoitsTmac
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Why not?! Just break out the scuba gear lol

And like jmo69 said, he gradually went from 60-10mph. Were you going from 60-10mph as fast as you could? I know you said you switched rotors with your buddy and there was no difference but if the pads literally lit on fire i feel like that's rotor warping type of heat.
I did slam the brakes each time, but that's what the directions told me. What is gradually? Like the way my parents approach a stop sign or half way between that and near ABS?

We (my friend and I that I swapped brakes with) discussed the odds of the rotors being warped based on the information that they did catch on fire. We were sure this was the issue but when we swapped rotors and pads, my wobble didn't carry over to his car. I'd be interested to swap brakes with him again now that my alignment is essentially in spec (I understand the toe has to be fixed on my driver side after fixing the caster)
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Old 02-08-2017, 04:44 AM   #59
YoitsTmac
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.

If the shuddering comes back get new pads because they are now uneven and will slowly put pad residue bacon your rotors.

First of all, thanks a ton. I did more research on pad build up and stumbled upon some Porsche threads that have near identical issues. What about my driving is causing pad residue? Too rough or too gentle? Can I just sand down my pads and then bed them? I really like my pads... I'd sooner buy new blanks if you think that is best, but I'd be most curious as to how to prevent build up from here on out.

I think what happened is that I had these pads and rotors, been slowly creating build up, the old bushings absorbed the issue for so long that it could get really deep, and now it's magnified with everything stiff



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Old 02-08-2017, 06:34 AM   #60
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Wow. I was thinking that your chassis is bent- it all got better when you disconnected the sway bar.

Bedding in brake pads- yeah, half way between ABS and what your parents do is about right. You're just trying to get everything to mate together. And you want to make sure that you drive far enough in between braking parts that the rotors and pads can completely cool back down. So you make them warm by slowing down, cool them by driving without applying the brakes, then warm them up again, then cool them again. Not threshold braking- that's for later. The more I think about it, you probably jacked your pads doing stops like that- it's called glazing the pads, when they get too hot too fast when they're new. That's that- but the problem persisted when you swapped pads and rotors with your buddy? Maybe something *is* bent up front...
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