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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 04-23-2017, 06:44 PM   #21
tubbs76
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As simple as it sounds, go under the car and disconnect the oil level sensor. (Leave it in and just un plug it). In the glove box where your fuses are kept, go to fuse 30 (7.5amp) and replace with a new one. Now start the car and see how it runs. If it runs fine, the oil level sensor is faulty. The oil level sensor runs on the same line as the battery and and the alternator and believe it or not, can give you the same issues. Simple test before throwing money at it. Worst case scenario, order a new sensor, drop the oil and replace. See if this works and see how you go.
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:24 PM   #22
cwaltz666
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UPDATE!

Voltage regulator went bad on the alternator. Popped a new one in and runs good as new


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Old 04-23-2017, 08:44 PM   #23
tubbs76
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Great to hear your problem is soughted
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Old 04-29-2017, 09:17 PM   #24
milesas
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Similar Issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanr1299 View Post
Well I'd start with the battery and alternator. I don't really trust the AutoZone battery and alternator testing, but to each their own. To test the battery, check the voltage with the car off, should be 12.5v. Then start the car and check the voltage at idle, should be 13.5v+. If both of these check out, use the OBC to monitor voltage while driving...you should stay above 13.5v, going up to 14-14.5v under load. All approximate, but if you're basically in this range then battery and alternator are good. More than likely the battery is good since it's brand new...If you're not getting enough voltage at idle or when driving, OR the voltage is highly erratic or too high with the car on, you should be looking at your alternator. Start by checking the connections to it are good and tight.
I am having the same issue and would love some advice. All signs point to alternator, but AutoZone ran alternator and said it was good. I know their test can be wrong, but I've noticed the wire housing on the wire going into the positive charging port under the hood was slightly melted making me wonder if there could be a short in the charging system feeding the alternator. I'm new to this stuff and wondering if there is any way to test before buying a new alternator and risking that not fixing the problem.
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:53 AM   #25
jfoj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milesas View Post
I know their test can be wrong, but I've noticed the wire housing on the wire going into the positive charging port under the hood was slightly melted making me wonder if there could be a short in the charging system feeding the alternator.
Cannot tell how bad the battery connection under the hood is from the picture, but this is NOT due to a short circuit of any kind, this is due to a loose connection at this mounting point. Any electrical connection will create some form of heat once a substantial amount of current passes through the connection, if the connection is loose, corroded or dirty, then more Voltage drop and heat will build up.

Disconnect the battery and then disassemble the connection under the hood and clean an oxidation off the copper so it is bright and shiny, the reassemble and tighten properly.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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