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Old 12-19-2007, 04:58 PM   #21
gaby1088
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can someone take a picture of the engine bay and point to where this thing is at i cant find it at all! please!!
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Old 12-19-2007, 08:08 PM   #22
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here ya go.

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Old 12-19-2007, 09:31 PM   #23
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thank you!! that is the thing i thought it was but i have no idea how to begin to remove it, imscared of breaking it, also my car is now making a high pitched squeak at around 2500 rpm and goes away after like 5 min of driving but i think its the belt, strange how that happened after i changed the ATF for the power steering and i cleaned the MAF but thank you, i plan on cleaning that on friday for preventative maintenance right?
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:33 PM   #24
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wait is this the thing i have to clean for preventative maintenance or the Idle control valve that i have to clean because dirt and grim builds up there? do you know?
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Old 12-20-2007, 06:21 AM   #25
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I don't think removing and cleaning the part this thread is about would be considered routine maintenance but I'm going to do it because I have had the same codes as the original poster. From the diagram it looks to be just to bolts or screws in the center.
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Old 12-20-2007, 06:54 AM   #26
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What I cleaned was the black box (adjuster unit). To remove it you need to disconnect one wire connector and remove two screws. One of the screws is below the box, which is a little bit hard to find. You will need to remove the air box so that you can push the MAF and intake tube lower. Be careful not to drop it!

After removing the two screws, move the box towards the driver's side and you will see it come off. Very easy.

As for the squeak, you could have dripped some ATF to the belt/pulley when you change the power steering fluid.

Last edited by scintilla; 12-20-2007 at 06:56 AM.
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:46 AM   #27
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^thanks, is this adjuster box the one that builds up gunk on it making the flap not close or is that the Idle control valve? do you recommend me cleaning the adjuster flap anyways? or does it even get dirty?
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Old 12-28-2007, 09:24 PM   #28
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Good info... I have to check to see if the flap is broken on mine just in case this is contributing to my misfire.
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Old 01-13-2008, 12:00 PM   #29
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anyone got pics of the idle control valve?
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Old 01-14-2008, 12:24 PM   #30
gaby1088
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anyone have pics on how to take off the idle control valve?
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Old 01-14-2008, 12:59 PM   #31
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Here is a great DIY for your idle control valve and/or adjuster unit.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=900798

Both will need to be cleaned at some point because they get dirty.

Here is my idle control valve at 70k:





What came off of the valve:




Nice and clean!






And here is the inside of the adjuster box at 70k:

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Old 01-17-2008, 10:08 AM   #32
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Thanks! that was a good link!!


does this have to do with throttle response at all?
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Old 03-13-2008, 10:57 AM   #33
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Thanks! that was a good link!!


does this have to do with throttle response at all?
bump for anwser
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Old 04-17-2008, 10:43 PM   #34
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I took out my disa valve today and it was very dirty, the flap is in place but it moves freely, like it opens and close freely, the metal pin was there almost all the way out so i just pushed it in.

Is my disa valve broken?? or is it supposed open and close freely like that?
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Old 04-17-2008, 11:49 PM   #35
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It shouldn't move freely. It's spring-loaded to the open position.
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Old 04-17-2008, 11:53 PM   #36
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Is my disa valve broken?? or is it supposed open and close freely like that?
I guess the question is: define "Move freely"!
No, its not supposed move freely per se. To move it, (close it) you should have to exert some force I.I.R.C.
It is vacuum controlled and therefore should be in the closed position when vacuum is applied to it.
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:56 AM   #37
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move freely means that it there is not resistance to opening or closing, in other words i dont have to touch it for ti to open or close by it self. depending on the position i hold it either opens or closes
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Old 05-15-2008, 08:34 PM   #38
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Well I just tried this fix...we'll see if it resolves the issue.

The issue was on the freeway on the way from work this afternoon. The check engine light comes on, the power goes away, the idle is rough, and there's a horrible rattle at around 2500~3000 rpm.

Peake tool (thanks Ken!) indicated misfires in all six cylinders. No obvious air or vaccum leaks, nothing out of the ordinary in the engine compartment. I came across this thread in my troubleshooting quest and figured I'd give it a try.

I pulled the unit, cleaned it up, reinstalled it, and cleared the codes. After a few laps around the block, everything seems back to normal with no more CEL or codes. I guess I'll find out if this was the golden ticket on the way to work tomorrow...
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Old 05-15-2008, 11:41 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by jpr View Post
Well I just tried this fix...we'll see if it resolves the issue.

The issue was on the freeway on the way from work this afternoon. The check engine light comes on, the power goes away, the idle is rough, and there's a horrible rattle at around 2500~3000 rpm.

Peake tool (thanks Ken!) indicated misfires in all six cylinders. No obvious air or vaccum leaks, nothing out of the ordinary in the engine compartment. I came across this thread in my troubleshooting quest and figured I'd give it a try.

I pulled the unit, cleaned it up, reinstalled it, and cleared the codes. After a few laps around the block, everything seems back to normal with no more CEL or codes. I guess I'll find out if this was the golden ticket on the way to work tomorrow...
Symptoms sure are similar... But my guess is that if the flap on the adjuster was in place and asuuming it functioned properly, then you probably have some work to do...

I only say this because you only had "misfires" and had them on all 6 cylinders. The missing ingrediebt to make this fix a possible fix is (in my case and in my opinion) a lean mixture code!

Good luck...
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Old 05-15-2008, 11:42 PM   #40
Speeder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpr View Post
Well I just tried this fix...we'll see if it resolves the issue.

The issue was on the freeway on the way from work this afternoon. The check engine light comes on, the power goes away, the idle is rough, and there's a horrible rattle at around 2500~3000 rpm.

Peake tool (thanks Ken!) indicated misfires in all six cylinders. No obvious air or vaccum leaks, nothing out of the ordinary in the engine compartment. I came across this thread in my troubleshooting quest and figured I'd give it a try.

I pulled the unit, cleaned it up, reinstalled it, and cleared the codes. After a few laps around the block, everything seems back to normal with no more CEL or codes. I guess I'll find out if this was the golden ticket on the way to work tomorrow...
Symptoms sure are similar... But my guess is that if the flap on the adjuster was in place and asuuming it functioned properly, then you probably have some work to do...

I only say this because you only had "misfires" and had them on all 6 cylinders. The missing ingrediebt to make this fix a possible fix is (in my case and in my opinion) a lean mixture code... Thay's where a broken flap causes too lean a mixture due to the abandunce of air entering the combustion system...

Good luck...
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