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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 05-16-2008, 07:18 AM   #41
jpr
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The lack of other codes is definitely the puzzler...

The Peake Tool (thanks again, BimmerTools!) read out a total of seven codes (in order, if that makes a difference) -
* Evap capilillary leak (pre-existing and ignored issue)
* Misfire cylinder #5
* Misfire cylinder #6
* Misfire cylinder #2
* Misfire cylinder #4
* Misfire cylinder #1
* Misfire cylinder #3

And that's it - no codes on fuel, air, O2, coils, camshaft, vanos, MDK, DISA, etc. Nothing else.

The good news is that I did make it to work today without incident. It's about a 14 mile run, mostly freeway, and the engine seems back to normal. The only difference from the usual routine is that I had the A/C turned off. I don't know if that's a contributor or if it's even possible for that to be a contributor, but I figured I'd eliminate that system as a variable.
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Old 07-16-2008, 11:00 PM   #42
DeUSA
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Rough Idle Fixed! Intake boot elbow rotted!

I want to thank “abomb” for that full description & great pictures, “E46 SoKOR 328I” for parts blowout, “Frostracing” for detailed arrows pointing to part & “FSUmac” for more detailed pictures. This forum helped me to finally solve a rough idling problem with my ’01 330CI but a different part was the culprit.

My Actron OBD II AutoScanner gave me the following codes:

Misfire - Cylinder 1
Misfire - Cylinder 2
Misfire - Cylinder 3
Misfire - Cylinder 4
Misfire - Cylinder 5
Misfire - Cylinder 6
Misfire - Multiple Cylinders
System Too Lean (Bank 1)
System Too Lean (Bank 2)

The Haynes repair manual first suggested simple DIY solutions: air filter element clogged, idle air control system fault, bad spark plugs, vacuum leak at throttle body intake manifold or hoses. From under the hood, I couldn’t visually find any loose or broken vacuum lines. They all looked like new so I replaced the plugs & air filter.

This $100.00 step did not stop the rough idling problem & hesitation when starting off. Searching for an answer besides the BMW $ervice department I found this forum. The idle regulating valve problem made sense. It was a simple part to get at and diagnose.

I removed the air mass sensor first (it’s after the air filter housing and has a wire plug attached). Then I removed the intake boot tube elbow. It‘s about 3” diameter and has a small rubber port that two small hoses connected to an “F” plug, plugs into. This “intake boot tube elbow” part # 13541438761, is solid at first then after the port, it is round pleated to allow flexing when it is connected to the throttle housing hose. It looked perfect from the top but was rotted underneath with 2” long openings between the pleats. I knew this had to be the “vacuum leak” the manual pointed to but I continued on to remove the idle regulating valve.

The valve turned out to be in good condition, open as normal and would hold smoothly closed when vacuum was applied. I put it back and the next day went to the dealer and bought the boot tube part for $27.28. I was surprised they matched an internet price I showed them.

After replacing the rubber boot part, the car started & responded like designed. Smooth steady idle. No hesitation at all. Step on the throttle and go. I did a highway run then stopped. The idle held at 600, did not drop nor stall. I believe I found the fix for my problem and maybe it will help you. You could get your fingers under this part and poke to see if it’s rotted before removing it. Thanks to all!
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Old 07-17-2008, 12:49 AM   #43
Speeder
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Great first post.. Welcome to the board...

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeUSA View Post
I want to thank “abomb” for that full description & great pictures, “E46 SoKOR 328I” for parts blowout, “Frostracing” for detailed arrows pointing to part & “FSUmac” for more detailed pictures.
LOL... It sounds like you're accepting an academy award....

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeUSA View Post
..... Then I removed the intake boot tube elbow. It‘s about 3” diameter and has a small rubber port that two small hoses connected to an “F” plug, plugs into. This “intake boot tube elbow” part # 13541438761, is solid at first then after the port, it is round pleated to allow flexing when it is connected to the throttle housing hose. It looked perfect from the top but was rotted underneath with 2” long openings between the pleats. I knew this had to be the “vacuum leak” the manual pointed to but I continued on to remove the idle regulating valve.
....... Thanks to all!
You mean this boot: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...t=whistle+boot

Same part different symtoms!
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Old 07-27-2008, 08:27 PM   #44
Jordi78
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Talking vaccum leak

Hello everyone I am new in this forum. I signed up because you guys fixed my car...... thank you so much........

I had the same problem with my car, I was getting error codes P0173 and P0174 service engine light on. The car was was running normal and no high revolutions. But the light was bugging me. After inspecting with a flashlight I noticed a small cracked house connected to the back of the air intake boot.

So I removed the DISA valve to make space, and taped up this hose really good. I did not buy a hose because the labor in this baby looks kind a hard. After reading the posting from CHEVYGUY. I decided to clean the DISA valve with brake cleaner which was working fine but it was very dirty.

I put everything back up and tested the car, the light was still there, but it went away the second time I turned on the car. I thought the car was running fine before, but dam NOW I can say it runs a significantly better I was not aware about the power this car has..... Now it picks up speed quickly when I hit the gas. Feels like am going to pop a willie...
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Old 08-13-2008, 08:09 PM   #45
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2 questions....

1. If I move the flap back and forth manually in my hand, should there be a rubber "popping" noise coming from the round part of the unit?

2. On the small roud part of the unit, there is an open hole that make the flap behave differently (cause of the vaccum I suppose)...should there be a hose connected to the little opening, or is left open to get air in for the vaccum to work?

thanks guys! At 130K and never been done do I'm interested to see what the ICV looks like too
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Old 08-21-2008, 07:13 PM   #46
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^^^^ answer this mans question! I need to know it aswell
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Old 08-27-2008, 03:36 AM   #47
RotaryBzzz
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Bumpage...looking for insights from JPR and/or any other posters with misfires, rough idles, power loss, and lean conditions.

The cracked elbow is a separate issue from this DISA valve/flap condition.

I've already replaced my elbow a few months ago but have now started to experience the rough idle, bogging, stalling, and great loss of power (i assume from the computer retarding the ignition to prevent detonation) that others have been talking about.

Funny thing is that the computer resets when i turn the car off and back on. The car also runs much better when I clear all the fault codes with my trusty $37 Harbor Freight OBD II reader/scanner! But then within 20miles, the gremlins are sensed again.

Last edited by RotaryBzzz; 08-27-2008 at 03:40 AM.
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Old 08-27-2008, 05:33 AM   #48
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I also just did this this passed weekend. Took about 2 hours. I used bake cleaner to clean my ICV. Came very shinny, after spraying that idle control valve i set it out side in 89 degree weather and let it dry completely.."just in case"

I didnt know whether or not you can clean that flap part What are you guys using to clean it?

I threw the same codes. After just clean my ICV my car seemed a little bit smoother. Still having that slight idle issue. Im thinking if i clean the flap part it should be better.
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Old 08-27-2008, 08:41 AM   #49
ari00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RotaryBzzz View Post
Bumpage...looking for insights from JPR and/or any other posters with misfires, rough idles, power loss, and lean conditions.

The cracked elbow is a separate issue from this DISA valve/flap condition.

I've already replaced my elbow a few months ago but have now started to experience the rough idle, bogging, stalling, and great loss of power (i assume from the computer retarding the ignition to prevent detonation) that others have been talking about.

Funny thing is that the computer resets when i turn the car off and back on. The car also runs much better when I clear all the fault codes with my trusty $37 Harbor Freight OBD II reader/scanner! But then within 20miles, the gremlins are sensed again.
What year is your car, and if it's got over 90k miles, have you ever changed your O2 sensors? I only ask because I've done both, the Adjuster Unit and the O2s.

The adjuster unit can be vaccum tested by spraying brake cleaner on and around it with the engine running. If the engine revs, it's your adjuster unit...there's a vaccum leak.

However, the symtpoms you describe are more related to O2 sensors (as well as some other items others here have mentioned). I was experiencing those symptoms and replaced my O2 sensors (as well as plugs and coils), and all my misfires, leans, hesitation, loss of power issues have dissapeared for over 20k miles. If it's not your adjuster unit, could be O2s. Those may not throw codes for a few weeks, but eventually will.
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Old 08-30-2008, 10:25 AM   #50
jpr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpr View Post
The lack of other codes is definitely the puzzler...

The Peake Tool (thanks again, BimmerTools!) read out a total of seven codes (in order, if that makes a difference) -
* Evap capilillary leak (pre-existing and ignored issue)
* Misfire cylinder #5
* Misfire cylinder #6
* Misfire cylinder #2
* Misfire cylinder #4
* Misfire cylinder #1
* Misfire cylinder #3

And that's it - no codes on fuel, air, O2, coils, camshaft, vanos, MDK, DISA, etc. Nothing else.

The good news is that I did make it to work today without incident. It's about a 14 mile run, mostly freeway, and the engine seems back to normal. The only difference from the usual routine is that I had the A/C turned off. I don't know if that's a contributor or if it's even possible for that to be a contributor, but I figured I'd eliminate that system as a variable.
I'm rather late posting the follow up, but in my case it turned out that this - "...The only difference from the usual routine is that I had the A/C turned off..." was in fact the critical variable. After the intial happy experience, the rattle noise kept getting worse and worse. Eventually I figure out the correllation with the A/C being on or off. I pulled the belt from the A/C compressor drive and sure enough, one could here little intermittent ticking sounds when the compressor was spun by hand. I left the belt off and have not had a single engine issue since.

As for the DISA valve, while not the root cause of the problem, I do think cleaning it help the engine cope with the problem. Even when the rattle noise was getting worse, the misfires were more infrequent after the valve cleaning.
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Old 11-30-2008, 09:03 AM   #51
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One thing I've experienced with the Adjust Unit / DISA valve is that the seal on it is horrible. I believe after the factory install, if you ever removed the DISA valve, you will need to re-seal it with something else. The seals (red/orange color) are permanently compressed and will never seal right again once it's removed. It became one of the most common source of vacuum leak besides the intake ducts.

I found another member here using the RTV gasket material and found that it worked well.







My 2 cents.
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:24 PM   #52
RotaryBzzz
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Update: I've have performed the DISA valve cleaning & reseal, have cleaned my idle control valve, have cleaned my MAF sensor, and have replaced the final upper rubber intake manifold tubing; all my code-problems have gone away!

The RTV sealant that Peanut Man mentioned is the stuff I used. This is what they seem to sell at Pepboys and Autozone here in Socal. I took a step further than the original poster and spread and flattened out the material with a screwdriver to make a better seal. My original seal job (without patting down) was not flush and as a result wasn't a very good seal.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I'm back up to about 27-28mpg combined!

Total spent: $13 lower intake boot, $26 upper intake boot, $6 RTV sealant, $6 CRC MAF cleaner spray, $free brake cleaner i had laying around = happiness found.

Last edited by RotaryBzzz; 12-01-2008 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:43 AM   #53
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rotary....what codes was your car throwing before you fixed it?
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Old 12-02-2008, 01:34 AM   #54
RotaryBzzz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GermnBlt View Post
rotary....what codes was your car throwing before you fixed it?
A bunch but all related to P0171 and P0174.

I had codes for misfiring in 2 cylinders and one other I don't remember.

It also idled crappy with slight 'burps' and a vibration I could feel in my dash. All gone now.
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:45 PM   #55
scorpion king
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emg2919- did you clean the icv. is your problem there the moment you start your engine??? is it limited to certain revs. please give me all the details you can, and be specific
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Old 12-05-2009, 02:05 AM   #56
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I had a 3" crack (I could insert a whole fingers) in my lower intake tube and I guess I never noticed how bad the whistle was, but I had thrown 9 different codes due to it and have been paying 3x the price of a typical emissions inspection just to pass... Thank you.
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Old 05-10-2010, 06:35 PM   #57
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this may just solve my major problem right now. I have engine misfire in cylinders 1,2,3,4,5

and lean bank codes. really rough idle. sounds like I have cams lol...

werid thing is when the codes are erased it runs perfect. until the SES light comes back on.

decided im going to replace the o2 sensors on the cat as they NEEDED it bad.
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Old 09-09-2010, 01:58 PM   #58
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This Should Be a Sticky, I had to use a goggle search to find this. I'll be picking up the required pieces on the way home (elbow that attaches to intake mani, RTV sealant and I have some carb & electrical component cleaner @ home.
Hope this works!
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Old 11-01-2010, 10:39 PM   #59
MadBMW
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After much of the same problems... Pulled mine out to replace the bottom boot and sure enough it was broken. It was a little PITA getting it out and the little pin was sitting right there in the manifold thankfully.
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Last edited by MadBMW; 11-01-2010 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 11-02-2010, 08:45 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW808 View Post
I also just did this this passed weekend. Took about 2 hours. I used bake cleaner to clean my ICV. Came very shinny, after spraying that idle control valve i set it out side in 89 degree weather and let it dry completely.."just in case"

I didnt know whether or not you can clean that flap part What are you guys using to clean it?

I threw the same codes. After just clean my ICV my car seemed a little bit smoother. Still having that slight idle issue. Im thinking if i clean the flap part it should be better.
Hey there,

Great move on letting it sit out and dry. I did this last weekend and blew a whole in my manifold. Not happy -- but car is now back together and learned a very hard lesson. Sitting for an hour isn't enough!!!!

HTH
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