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General E46 Forum
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Old 02-14-2011, 08:00 PM   #81
j0n228
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i think im having the same prpoblem my car gets horrible gas mileage the car seems to b acting alot slower ive already changed vanos so i kno its not that n the codes that come up are very similiar to the first post i will b buyin the piece now can anyone confirm thats its defently worth it i dont just wanna throw 220$ out the window
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:49 PM   #82
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bump can anyone shed some more light on this
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:03 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by j0n228 View Post
i think im having the same prpoblem my car gets horrible gas mileage the car seems to b acting alot slower ive already changed vanos so i kno its not that n the codes that come up are very similiar to the first post i will b buyin the piece now can anyone confirm thats its defently worth it i dont just wanna throw 220$ out the window
I'd check for vacuum leaks. Check your maf. And check your icv before spending money on the disa. From my understanding the disa shouldn't have great effects on gas milage.


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Old 02-23-2011, 12:52 AM   #84
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i should b gettin my part today hopefully this will solve my problem i need my beamer back
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:35 PM   #85
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I am having the same codes P1083,P1085,P0174,P0171.

My car idles rough on cold start, but otherwise it acts normal. I am going to check the DISA. Will report back if it fixes the problem!
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Old 03-11-2011, 08:58 AM   #86
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For my car I had to replace the DISA that was totally shot. The second thing I replaced was the lower vacuum hose. Apparently a non-moving part like that can have cracks underneath it. So take your time and take everything apart and look at all the lines and everything to see if there is any cracks anywhere. Good luck guys.
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Old 03-13-2011, 09:31 AM   #87
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Reporting back

My car is 02 325i Step with 120k miles.

I cleaned the DISA and ICV yesterday. The DISA was working perfectly, although it had some crud on it. The ICV also wasnt too bad either. Cleaned everything and put it back.

Do i need to reset the codes or will they go away on their own?

One note on the hose clamps.

1.> The hose clamps can be loosened with a flat blade. Better way is to do it with the hex slot on a standard bit driver. The clamp screws have 6 mm heads.
2.> If the lower hose clamps are facing downwards then god save you! I realized that you need a stubby to get those out.
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Old 03-13-2011, 02:34 PM   #88
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Thanks for the tip fellas...

My car has been acting up lately so I pulled the DISA and found this outstanding pile of German fail:



I'm still kind of concerned though because those are all the parts I recovered. It seems like a few bits are missing.

My symptoms were exactly as described by others - CEL and rough idle along with an occasional loss of power (limp mode?) that could be resolved by a restart. The car is a 330cic with 100k on the odo.

I also downloaded a laundry list of misfire related ECU codes:
P1347
P0313- misfire w/ low fuel
P0300 - random / multi cylinder misfire
P1342 - misfire during start cyl1
P1349 - misfire cyl 4 w/ fuel cut off (indicating limp mode?)
P1344 - misfire during start cyl 2
P1352 - misfire during start cyl 6
P1351 - misfire cyl 5 w/ fuel cut off
P0174 - too lean bank 2
P0171 - too lean bank 1

I'll report back once the new part arrives.
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Old 03-13-2011, 11:09 PM   #89
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double check all the hoses and pipes. just make sure there are no leaks anywhere else. the codes should fade away after about 500 miles of driving.
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:20 AM   #90
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Outstanding thread! Thanks to the OP and all who contributed. I can fix my car now. I have been living with this rough idle and stalling (both only while idling) since last summer!
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:32 AM   #91
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the codes should fade away after about 500 miles of driving.
You'd be better off clearing the codes. That way if they come back on, you would know for sure that the problem isn't fixed.
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:46 AM   #92
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Guys,

I got the codes cleared, but they came back on in about 30 miles of driving?
My MAF looked very clean, so I did not clean it.

I am stumped now, could it be the injectors or O2 sensors?

Last edited by tractioncircle; 03-16-2011 at 07:47 AM. Reason: edit
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:47 AM   #93
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Guys,

I got the codes cleared, but they came back on in about 30 miles of driving?
My MAF looked very clean, so I did not clean it.

I am stumped now, could it be the injectors or O2 sensors?
Unplug the MAF and start the car. See if that helps. Don't run the car for too long without the MAF plugged in though.

Sometimes it looks clean but really isn't. Unplugging the MAF will cause the car to go to a default set of parameters which bypass the input of the MAF sensor. If it works better, clean and/or replace the MAF. If not, lets try elsewhere.
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Old 03-16-2011, 06:51 PM   #94
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I think I will do this also
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:33 AM   #95
tractioncircle
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Latest update.

The SES went off on its own. I also cleaned the MAF after this.

130 miles and no SES
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:35 AM   #96
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FYI: usually with the DISA Valve (flap) aka Adjuster Unit you will hear a pop as the air gets sucked back in. Rough idle can be attributed to many things (Tranny mounts, O2 Sensors, Engine Mounts, Coils, Adjuster Unit, Bad Gas, etc). Proper diagnostic codes make a world of a difference. If you can't get the codes MAKE sure you know what to look for before you waste time/money.
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:51 AM   #97
tractioncircle
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The same codes are back again. P1083,1085,0171,0174.

It's a on and off kind of thing. I did a coulple of 100+ miles drives. Long drives and warm weather the codes disappear. Do a cold start and the codes come back.
I have the ELM scan tool and read the freeze frames. Each time the codes are set at or near idle (625-700 rpm and 0 mph).

I removed the oil filler cap with the car at idle. Car idles the same with the cap off, guess this means the PCV is working allright.
Another interesting thing phenomenon is that the car idles at 695-700 rpm in P and N, but drops to 525-550 range when D or R is engaged.
When i had cleaned the ICV and MAF, the car kept the idle around 700 even under load.

Also, no loss in acceleration and highway economy is at a healthy 30-31mpg.

I am now totally stumped. Damn these codes.
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Old 04-29-2011, 11:17 AM   #98
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Any Guesses?
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Old 05-08-2011, 01:20 AM   #99
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hi..

would this problem with the intake adjuster be applicable on the n42 engine.. would the symptoms be the cause of one cylinder misfire? have done coil, plug and injector test but problem still at it.

help

Mark
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Old 05-11-2011, 03:16 PM   #100
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I saw this thread while searching for symptoms for the problem that i am facing.
I don't have any codes being set. I don't even know if what i have is called rough idling.

I am hearing a small rattling noise from my engine for a few weeks now. the sound is like a separate small fan spinning in a different frequency from all other things spinning in there. Also the engine gives a whining sound in low speeds (in 2nd and 3rd gear) and whenever i am down shifting.

I know these problem may not be solved by one unit, but after reading this thread and related links that i saw here it seems like the rattling noise may be coming from the DISA Valve.

Anyone know what is with the shining sound? I do get some jerks while at low speeds sometimes.
Also i just crossed 100k last week.

Neo
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