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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 07-05-2015, 05:42 PM   #21
Alex323Ci
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^ yep actually the firs stage is to inject foam in an area that makes somewhat of a wall in the crevice so the second stage can be injected and stays within the confined area around the mounting blocks. but if you have rust working from inside that cavity working out it's still going to give when the metal is fatigued. but it's a better way than nothing, works for many but not all. then again even some new floors have given out under hard use/abuse. i had my 323Ci floor replaced with a newer version improved panel. the original held up for about 115K miles, so one might expect atleast another 150,000 with a newer improved floor panel.
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:06 AM   #22
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i had my 323Ci floor replaced with a newer version improved panel.
Was this a brand new panel or cut off a junkyard car? Just curious...
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:55 AM   #23
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Was this a brand new panel or cut off a junkyard car? Just curious...
brand new from BMW and work done by BMW
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Old 07-06-2015, 02:55 AM   #24
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Was this a brand new panel or cut off a junkyard car? Just curious...
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Old 07-08-2015, 03:15 PM   #25
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What kind of price tag is a floor replacement...?


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Old 07-08-2015, 03:29 PM   #26
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OP, how many miles on your car?

Im trying to keep some generic statistics.
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Old 07-08-2015, 04:19 PM   #27
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The BMW replacement of trunk floor, at a bmw dealer under the settlement was just under $5,000. Others have gotten it patched for maybe $1500...maybe a little less...but there's a bit of work involved if you have a rip.
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:00 PM   #28
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The BMW replacement of trunk floor, at a bmw dealer under the settlement was just under $5,000. Others have gotten it patched for maybe $1500...maybe a little less...but there's a bit of work involved if you have a rip.
Is that the cost for parts + labor? And are they still doing it?
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Old 07-09-2015, 03:54 AM   #29
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yes that the cost for parts and labor from the dealership. not only do they replace the whole panel. the have to weld it in on a four point rack to get it aligned correctly. they also have to repaint both the top and bottom sections, then align the suspension.

sure they can do this still. but to be honest you're better off going to an independant BMW shop that has done this and save a lot of money. BMW does not cover this anymore. at the most i've heard them cover 1/2 of the cost when done at their approved facility. so you're still out about $2,500 when many places can repair for about $900-$1300 doing the TMS plates.
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Old 07-09-2015, 12:26 PM   #30
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If the subframe is not cracked or visibly cracked, would it be good measure to just weld the plates in and call it a day?
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Old 10-03-2016, 05:55 PM   #31
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What would you guys say causes the subframe to crack more twists and turns or launches
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Old 10-03-2016, 06:06 PM   #32
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Launches; loading and unloading of the drivetrain.
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Old 10-03-2016, 06:38 PM   #33
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YouTube redish motorsport videos. They also sell a repair kit that appears to be a lot more substantial than turner's.

And for only slightly more, too.

Their videos are pretty enlightening as well. Like, as far as the process of actually fixing it goes.

I saw a father / son video of the two doing the redish fix... They didn't scrub the paint off and weld the existing cracks, but it's a clear indication that you can do it yourself in your garage. Or driveway.

That's what I'm going to do after my car runs again.

Go make friends with a welder and offer him a few bucks and beers to come do it if you can't.

That's what I'm going to do... I'm not even sure it's cracked, to be honest, but I'm putting a bigger engine in, so I figure it would be wise to just do it.

As far as the paint and sealer, it's all under the car, so it doesn't have to be an amazing job. It just has to protect the metal from rusting out.

You have to get the kit on eBay, (I know, I know...) since they don't sell it direct from their site.

Last edited by bobnagga; 10-03-2016 at 06:41 PM. Reason: More info
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Old 10-03-2016, 06:47 PM   #34
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I did the Redish plates as PM. It was a lot of work, but top notch kit. A car with photo documentation of properly installed reinforcements would be worth $1500-2k more to me, after doing it personally.
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Old 10-03-2016, 08:00 PM   #35
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I did the Redish plates as PM. It was a lot of work, but top notch kit. A car with photo documentation of properly installed reinforcements would be worth $1500-2k more to me, after doing it personally.
Good to hear from somebody that's actually used it. Kind of makes me a bit more confident that I went with the right kit.
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Old 10-07-2016, 09:14 PM   #36
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You have to get the kit on eBay, (I know, I know...) since they don't sell it direct from their site.
You can contact Redish (Bristol, UK) directly via e-mail and they'll sell you the kit - payment via PayPal. I got impatient and bought mine on eBay from a firm that fabricates the plate kit. Incredibly it arrived in just four business days. The price on eBay is about the same but the shipping is a bit higher.

My plan is to have a body shop do the installation. They've done LOTS of BMW work that's much more complex than installing said plates. Yes the Redish kit appears to be more robust than the Turner kit and will distribute loads over larger areas thus reducing stress levels in the trunk sub-floor at the diff mounting points.

Redish appears to really know what they're talking about. They don't mandate complete floor replacement on all '99 and '00 e46s that show evidence of cracks as some on this board have mentioned.

The chassis had 175k miles on it before the diff tore out of the sub-floor, and after the repair the hope is to go another 150k miles. It's cheaper than replacing the car.
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Old 10-08-2016, 10:59 AM   #37
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You can contact Redish (Bristol, UK) directly via e-mail and they'll sell you the kit - payment via PayPal.
Yeah, that's right. I remember I tried to call them, too, but I don't have international calling anymore, so that's why I did eBay.

Yeah, so you've got options to get it.
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Old 10-08-2016, 11:36 AM   #38
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Now is the time for RTABs, diff bushings, CSB, etc. I also replaced my 160k mi oem fuel pump as PM during this process. I went with AKG 95A subframe bushings, which would sit flush against your new plates, distributing loads across a much larger surface area than the stock bushings. I went with OEM bushings for the diff, as this is where all the NVH originates, and it needs to float a little. Replaced the control arm bushings with the oem sphericals. RTABs need compliance in 3 dimensions throughout the suspension travel, so that's a bad place to put a spherical bushing or poly, IMO. I went with Meyle HD bushings and poly RTAB limiters. While you're in there, it's a good time to do your swaybar bushings and check out the endlinks.

Being slightly OCD, I completely scrubbed the underbody and wheel wells until spotless before and after welding. POR-15'd the plates and welds, then resprayed silver. Unless you know what you're looking for, you'd never notice it.

It took me about 3 weeks, just working an hour here or there. With a lift and previous experience, I could do it in ~16 hours. Maybe in a day if you take the shop route and leave everything dirty and skip any PM
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Old 10-08-2016, 02:31 PM   #39
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I went with AKG 95A subframe bushings, which would sit flush against your new plates, distributing loads across a much larger surface area than the stock bushings. I went with OEM bushings for the diff, as this is where all the NVH originates, and it needs to float a little.
I'm confused - Which bushings did you use for the diff? You're talking two different bushings - AKG 95A and OEM. Which is used where?? Are there two bushings per corner on the Diff? I

My intent is to use OEM throughout (except the where the Diff bushings contact the chassis, and use Powerflex three. I'll replace the upper control arm bushings with the spherical M3 variety. I'll also replace the rear springs with OEM. Mine are corroded from typical salt abuse in the rust belt.
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Old 10-08-2016, 02:52 PM   #40
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I used AKG for the subframe / diff carrier frame. OEM for the diff itself...there are two.
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