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Old 04-16-2011, 08:59 AM   #21
willsbma
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I know you said there were no vacuum leaks but how do you know? Did you do a smoke test?
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Old 04-16-2011, 10:13 AM   #22
28firefighter
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Yes, several times. I have also physically inspected every single area I can for cracks and leaks.

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Old 04-26-2011, 04:13 PM   #23
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Update: Car just spent 2 weeks at the mechanic. We've done a transmission fluid change, tried new pre-cat o2 sensors, tried new CPS', and VANOS seals all to no avail.

The car is not throwing codes of any kind whatsoever. There are no vacuum leaks of any kind. No matter what I do, from roughly 50-65mph between 2000-2500 RPM, the car will bog consistently. The general consensus seems to be that this is normal, and is a result of no software updates from BMW to accomodate the fact that the car has aged. I find that hard to believe, but we have nothing else left to try.

The car is parked and I'm seriously considering selling it at this point. To me it is not drivable in this condition. To "drive around" the problem, would mean driving to slow for traffic or a speeding ticket. Last thoughts?
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Old 04-27-2011, 02:06 AM   #24
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Did you try changing wire harness, like I said?
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:06 AM   #25
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I missed your post, Hukerfaker. Will investigate later today.
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:57 PM   #26
28firefighter
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We changed the wiring harness between the MAF and DME. No change.

I find it hard to believe that this is normal for the car. My fiancée's 4 cylinder Mazda has more getup and go.

Thinking about getting rid of it if I can't resolve this.

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Old 04-27-2011, 07:31 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by 28firefighter View Post
Well, my bogging problem is still very much present after having driven about 1000 miles with the new MAF. I can reproduce this issue rapidly once at highway speeds, and no one seems to know what to do about it. The mechanics I've talked to are all split between it being a software corruption and/or some mechanical issue. We are literally out of parts to think of throwing at it.
I'm baffled as to why your mechanic is baffled.

I have personally witnessed the BMW Diagnostic Software pin point a shorted transistor in less than a minute. If your mechanic is not plugging his computer into the Data Link Connector, then you need a new mechanic. Anybody that can't find a problem with a BMW hasn't got the proper diagnostic package. Or, they do have it but don't know how to use it.
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:57 PM   #28
28firefighter
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My mechanic is using a GT1 or maybe Autologic. One of the two.

It is throwing no faults and everything looks perfectly normal according to the data readout. Every other mechanic I've taken it to told me to take it to him since they could not figure it out.

I just find it hard to believe that every steptronic 330xi does this...

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Old 04-27-2011, 09:10 PM   #29
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i still think there is a vacum leak i know you got a smok test done but was it CONDUCTED correctly. most shop wil plug in the smoke tester at the MAF intak boot but FAILED to open the throttle (buttler fly flap) to let the smoke travel throughout the intake system. if you don;t open the throttle then you are only checking 10% of the intake system (intake boot to throttle body).
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Old 05-06-2011, 02:48 PM   #30
willsbma
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Vanos seals?
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Old 05-07-2011, 01:09 PM   #31
fwthompson1984
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I have a 2004 325i that has the same problem you are having. I have no codes tho. I just had a fuel pump fail and replaced it but now have a small yet annoying hesitation.
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Old 05-07-2011, 01:23 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrientBlau View Post
Fuel injector services do little to nothing.
agree

Quote:
Originally Posted by 28firefighter View Post
Well, my bogging problem is still very much present after having driven about 1000 miles with the new MAF. I can reproduce this issue rapidly once at highway speeds, and no one seems to know what to do about it. The mechanics I've talked to are all split between it being a software corruption and/or some mechanical issue. We are literally out of parts to think of throwing at it.
All the symptoms to me sounded like a cam sensor, but you said you tried replacing that

maybe its a coil

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Originally Posted by Hukerfaker View Post
Did you try changing wire harness, like I said?
I have never in all my years of work with and on bmw's have heard of someone replacing that harness
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Old 05-08-2011, 02:04 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by 28firefighter View Post
Thank you all for responding. All the rubber pieces have been checked and the car has been smoke tested more times than I'd like to think about.

The DISA is new and functioning and the ICV and throttle body are both clean and functioning properly. Thus all I could come up with was the MAF.

The idle issues seemed to clear up when it was unplugged but it is hard to tell for sure since it was really random when it happened. The limp home mode really made it so I couldn't do very much in terms of testing it.

Last question: I came across an aftermarket replacement for about $99. Would getting this be a huge mistake?

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Aftermarket MAFs are a big mistake, - you need the proper (mine was a) Bosch MAF. It cost me 200euro from a bmw specialist, from the dealer it was about 350euro.
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Old 05-09-2011, 06:12 PM   #34
eFourSix
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Bavarian VOO DOO in my 2003 325i e46
I just installed a new Stewart High Performance Water pump, all Belts, tensioners , updated to Aluminum pully and aluminum thermo housing and on my 2003 e46 .. Well the car sat in my garage for over 3 weeks with out starting.. I installed all parts my self with no problems. When I went to start my car, It immediately went into limp mode / Safe Mode with the gear and explication point (" ! " ) light came on.. I tried unplugging the battery and doing a "hard reset"
What would cause limp mode to come on after sitting so long?
Note: I did unplug 3 sensor and plug back them back in that start from the thermostat housing to the engine. With out unplugging the battery.
Also: The RED oil light flickers on and off at low rpms. I know enough I may have to replace it. I bought one and will replace it tonight. ..
I will keep you guys posted.
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Old 05-09-2011, 06:31 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by mack89 View Post
^NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO failing MAF will fail anyway, cleaning MAF is only part of a maintenance!
but a dirty MAF is only a dirty MAF; it is not a failing MAF.
Why not clean it first? it's free.
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:09 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by mack89 View Post
Well, MAF stands for Mother-of-All-Fking-problem..Why don't you try local BMW shop, swap the MAF and monitor the result? That'll save you some money and reduce your stress
lol
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:29 PM   #37
laz878
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Sorry to bring this thread from the grave but I'm having very similar problems as the OP and it doesn't seem like he ever came to a solution.

I have an 04 330ci stick shift 6 speed with 109k miles on it. I've replaced all intake boots, and throttle body gasket in the past so I know it's not a leak issue, at least concerning those parts. So my car started with hesitant acceleration very subtly this past week. Then last night when I tried starting the car up, it took a good 4 key turns to get the engine to fire up. Everything turned over fine but it took more attempts then normal to fire up the engine. Anyway, pulled out of my garage and drove to my buddies house with no issues until right as I was parking the car, the engine starting having very erratic rpm levels. Really rough idle and the engine dropping in rpm's and bouncing back up with th engine shaking like it was going to cut out. Turned it off and came back to it hours later when leaving my buddies house. Car starts up fine. On the way home though, I can feel the car hiccuping in power. Just keeping a steady cruise at 40mph in 4th gear, every minute or so I could feel like the car was losing power for a split second and the catching itself and running smooth again. After feeling that driving on a long straight back road, I come to a light and the engine starts shaking with the rpm's dropping to a few times to nearly the engine cutting out. I take a right turn at the light and as soon as I let the clutch out and put a load on the engine, throttle response turns to non existent and the rpm's drop to the point to the engine cuts out. I start the car back up in the middle of the road and once again try pulling off after letting the clutch out and again the engines throttle is completely unresponsive and the car dies.

That was last night and now I got the car towed to my garage and I am trying to figure out what is wrong and so far the two main culprits could either be the fuel pump going out or a bad MAF. But I didn't think a bad MAF would cause the engine to completely lose power. Just cause rough idle and sluggish performance. I can start the car up no problem right now. But after it warms up and idles for a minute or so the rpm's drop and jump erratically until the engine dies. If I out a load on the engine it dies immediately.

Pardon the complete lack of structure and grammar and punctuation in this post. I am posting this from my phone while I am trying to figure this mess out in my garage and just want to get this posted ASAP to hopefully get some advice on what may be the problem. Thank you in advance to anyone who can give some input on this. If possible I'd like to save myself the hundreds of spend buying parts chasing the problem.
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