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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 11-21-2013, 02:36 PM   #21
mcopenha
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My Ride: '01 325xi, '73 2002
my problem is that the transmission (A5S 390R) in my 325xi is slow to engage first gear sometimes when the weather is very cold.

OP suggests that this symptom occurs on AWD cars like mine and therefore might be due to a bad TCC solenoid.

Anyone else experience this problem on their xi?
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:56 PM   #22
lszlszx
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Originally Posted by esberelias View Post
Where do you guys buy the "24327532013 Pressure regulator,convert.lockup clutch" from??
I bought mine at the dealer, it was $160, reaoem lists it at about $110.
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GM No Reverse - posts 427, 439

"Would the codes indicate if it's the carburator?"
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:05 PM   #23
lszlszx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcopenha View Post
my problem is that the transmission (A5S 390R) in my 325xi is slow to engage first gear sometimes when the weather is very cold.
OP suggests that this symptom occurs on AWD cars like mine and therefore might be due to a bad TCC solenoid.
Anyone else experience this problem on their xi?
I have not seen the slow cold engagement problem linked to the TCC solenoid, but if it is caused by a solenoid, it could be any of them.
It's possible to test them, the solenoid is supposed to click when 12V is applied to them.
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Old 11-25-2013, 07:35 PM   #24
SeattleGraugrun03
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brrrr... P to D

@mcopenha: Although I don't have an xi, I'm dealing with the "no or slow engagement from P to D" during a very cold morning start after being parked overnight. It's not Reverse specific, and when warmed up the tranny shifts just fine after it "catches." Fluid and filter done about 10k miles ago, level is fine. Valvoline MaxLife was used, compatible with the BMW spec fluids.

Before I attempt to replace the solenoid I'm going to my local independent to apply the SIB/TSB to my transmission programming (Also have the A5S390R), I do believe this specific SIB applies to your xi as well.

If you Google "Automatic Transmission Delay New 2008 SIB 24 07 03" you'll find a copy of the SIB. Note that this appears to be the latest version, the early SIB recommended tranny replacement if customer complained of the issue (under a new-vehicle warranty)

I verified that I have the standard programming on my tranny software (EGS module) so we'll see if this upgrade does anything.

If it's still happening after the software upgrade when temps drop to low 30s I may swap out the TCC solenoid and see if that helps any along with another fluid swap.
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:32 AM   #25
swordsman11868
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DIY: Replacing TCC Solenoid on GM 5L40E (A5S 360R/ A5S 390R) - Fix GM No Revers

Sub'd.

I'm having the start of the same cold shift problem into drive. - slight delay.

In for the results. Thanks guys.



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Old 11-28-2013, 09:47 AM   #26
swordsman11868
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DIY: Replacing TCC Solenoid on GM 5L40E (A5S 360R/ A5S 390R) - Fix GM No Revers

Sub'd.

I'm having the start of the same cold shift problem into drive. - slight delay.

In for the results. Thanks guys.



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Old 12-03-2013, 04:53 AM   #27
AlecSE46
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DIY: Replacing TCC Solenoid on GM 5L40E (A5S 360R/ A5S 390R) - Fix GM No Revers

Further proof that a solenoid can do the trick!

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1014812


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Old 12-06-2013, 12:02 PM   #28
SeattleGraugrun03
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cold start update

I recently had the SIB software flashed onto my EGS, but two days later the same cold-start shift issue. The car would freely rev but move in D very very slowly... or roll backwards in the driveway. Getting down the street it would eventually warm up "catch" and shift just fine after that. Issue occurs when temps drop to freezing... never had an issue when it's been warmer.

Last night I drained the pan, dropped it, replaced the TCC solenoid, changed to a new filter and filled with new fluid. Filter change and two drain and fills were done about 10k ago, so the old fluid and filter were in good shape but I swapped the filter and fluid anyway. The pan magnet didn't have much on it. Since I had everything apart I put in a few oz of AutoRx to clean things up. Going to do another drain and fill when the cleaning cycle is over in a few thousand miles. Visually the old TCC solenoid looked fine, none of the filter screens were obviously clogged or broken.

Left the car parked outside last night since the temps were dropping. It was about 25F this morning and she started up fine and engaged D without any drama immediately. Drove around the block and it behaved as expected. This isn't the car I drove normally but I'll monitor to see if the cold-start issues reappear....

So to sum it all up..... BMW SIB applied to EGS (slow D engagement), TCC solenoid replaced, new filter and new fluid. Fluid used was Valv MaxLife ATF compatible with the original fill for this tranny.

If the issue reappears I'm out of ideas.
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:28 PM   #29
wildcat293
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Hi guys

Mine is still going strong. I first noticed this problem back then trying to drive up ramps in the winter... really had to rev to get it up. got worse from there a few weeks later when I could not move past the end of my driveway until the car warmed up. sounds similar to what you are seeing. That being said if it isn't a huge hassle right now might not want to tackle it. worse thing that happens is you get stuck somewhere for 10min while the tranny warms up. Also its a lot more fun to do this work when it isn't cold out!

BTW first things first, check the fluid level!

Last edited by wildcat293; 02-04-2014 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:59 PM   #30
kpgary
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Smile GM trans no reverse fix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcat293 View Post
good to know people still have options if solenoid alone doesn't fix it
I bet the gasket is the same for all 5L40E, some googling might find it

the disintegration of that paper gasket is probably the cause, clogging up the solenoid and sometimes more than that.

I have been good for over a year after changing just the solenoid
After changing the solenoid and cleaning out the valve body the problem returned after 1 month. My battery started acting up so I replaced it. And have not had the problem ever sense. I was talking to a BMW instructor and a friend was having the no reverse trouble and after he changed his battery the problem was gone. We came to the conclusion that it was 1. A voltage supply problem or 2. Disconnecting the battery reset the transmission control module. Either way I'm very confident it's fixed. Hope this helps someone else.
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Old 09-27-2014, 01:13 AM   #31
cgadd04@yahoo.com
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I have a 99 323 I with a broken accumulato spring in the valve body, and have a terrible time figuring out how to aquire another one. Any help?
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Old 09-27-2014, 01:20 AM   #32
cgadd04@yahoo.com
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I have a 99 323 I with a broken accumulato spring in the valve body, and have a terrible time figuring out how to aquire another one. Any help?
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Old 01-29-2015, 11:35 AM   #33
Multibimmer
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I have an 04 325i (RWD) with 137K miles, and for the past year or so, its transmission has been slipping pretty badly on cold mornings, either in Reverse, or in Drive. Once the car warms up, the problem goes away, and it shifts fine. The problem doesn't seem to be getting worse over time. It seems to be worse if I put it into Reverse first to pull out of my driveway (which is on a slope), and then shift it into Drive, versus putting it into neutral first and letting it coast to the street before putting it into Drive, or, if I park it on the street overnight, which enables me to start off in Drive. In other words, driving in Reverse initially seems to make it slip worse when driving in Drive. But under no circumstances does it not slip when cold, even if I don't drive in Reverse before putting it in Drive.

I read through this thread, and even though my symptom don't exactly match what's described here, I thought it was worth risking the $110 or so to replace the TCC (and of course change the fluid). I last changed the fluid about a year and a half ago, so about six months before the slipping started, so I don't think that fluid change had anything to do with the problem. I even disconnected the battery for a couple of hours during the job, based on the experience of one of the people who responded to this thread. Unfortunately, this doesn't seem to have helped my problem at all - it's behaving exactly the same - no better, no worse.

Do I have any other options other than replacing the transmission? The car is worth so little that it doesn't make economic sense to sink that much money into it, and the fact that the problem isn't getting worse over time gives me a glimmer of hope that there's something else wrong that's fixable. Thanks.
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Old 03-01-2015, 11:59 AM   #34
Multibimmer
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Well, I went ahead and replaced the TCC on my car with a new one, and unfortunately it didn't help my transmission's symptoms. I ended up replacing my transmission with one from a salvage yard with 21K fewer miles, and I removed the new TCC from my old transmission. It has at most 200 miles on it. So, if anyone with a transmission giving symptoms like the ones described in this thread is thinking about replacing their TCC, but doesn't want to shell out the $70-80 for a new one, I'd be happy to sell you mine for $50 plus shipping. If it doesn't work, you can always sell it to someone else, essentially eliminating the risk of checking if your TCC is the problem.
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Old 03-29-2015, 07:07 PM   #35
Tweeks802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Multibimmer View Post
Well, I went ahead and replaced the TCC on my car with a new one, and unfortunately it didn't help my transmission's symptoms. I ended up replacing my transmission with one from a salvage yard with 21K fewer miles, and I removed the new TCC from my old transmission. It has at most 200 miles on it. So, if anyone with a transmission giving symptoms like the ones described in this thread is thinking about replacing their TCC, but doesn't want to shell out the $70-80 for a new one, I'd be happy to sell you mine for $50 plus shipping. If it doesn't work, you can always sell it to someone else, essentially eliminating the risk of checking if your TCC is the problem.
Do you still have the TCC for $50?
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Old 06-09-2015, 01:59 PM   #36
bskehan
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I am having a problem figuring out exactly which Tranny I have. Aamco told me I had the GM but the production month says it should be the ZF. Anyone know somewhere I can go and enter my Vin to find out for sure?
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:29 PM   #37
latitude39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bskehan View Post
I am having a problem figuring out exactly which Tranny I have. Aamco told me I had the GM but the production month says it should be the ZF. Anyone know somewhere I can go and enter my Vin to find out for sure?
Realoem.com, using the last 7 characters of VIN. Also, the part number on the transmission pan, plugged into realoem should confirm.
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Old 07-18-2016, 01:53 PM   #38
JamesZ
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No Reverse Follow up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kpgary View Post
After changing the solenoid and cleaning out the valve body the problem returned after 1 month. My battery started acting up so I replaced it. And have not had the problem ever sense. I was talking to a BMW instructor and a friend was having the no reverse trouble and after he changed his battery the problem was gone. We came to the conclusion that it was 1. A voltage supply problem or 2. Disconnecting the battery reset the transmission control module. Either way I'm very confident it's fixed. Hope this helps someone else.
Hi kpgary,

I'm about attempt a valve body rebuild on my 2000 E46. I was wondering if your rebuild solved the "no reverse" issue or did it return?

Thanks and cheers,
-jz
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Old 07-18-2016, 06:20 PM   #39
kpgary
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Yes it did return but after I changed my battery it was fine from there on.
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