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Old 02-25-2012, 12:17 PM   #1
CH715
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Unhappy Hard start and stalling!!!

Hi Guys firstly absolutely great forum, long time bmw lover first time poster. I am in need of some help and do not fancy getting ripped of by my local bmw garage in sunny England. My ride is a brillant 2000 bmw 325ci.

this is my first coupe and I am having serious problems already car is on 140k so i expected some problems but looks so good I couldn't resist buying.

Anyways here my problem.

First bought the car after week engine light came on and the car seemed to be struggling to get over 3000RPM and had a very irratic idle bouncing up and down constantly also was getting very poor MPG around 16mpg in town. Unplugged maf car ran fine so thought it was the Maf. Cleaned the Maf then the car ran great for a few day then symptoms re-appeared.

I then replaced the Maf albeit with a cheap replacement not OEM (never again) and the car ran great MPG got better rough idle completed eliminated,I now notice that when I accelrate rpm go up then dip down then up again even though my foot is right down on the accelerator but not too much of problem car still shift. Now 4 weeks later...

Car is very hard to start its like engine about to catch but doesn't eventually car does start. when does start as soon as press the accelerator the car complety dies. on occasions where i can drive the car stalls silently while driving slowly (VERY DANGEROUS) I unplugged the maf and the car seems run ok.

Is this a maf problem again? or something else im trying not to stump up for an original part as MAF is almost 300 quid. Iv checked for leaks in the intake and i cant see any. after much searching i think my problems could be the following;

1. Air leak in intake hoses or CVV hose
2. Fault Intake camshaft,
3. Faulty Exhaust Camshaft
4. Faulty 02 sensors
5. Spark plugs?

The car has been heavily modified by the previous owner, Remapped, KN Air filter, wolfrace quad exhaust, lowered. I bought this from a local garage who now say the car was fine when they had it!

any help would be much much appreciated before I go buy all the parts as I am short of cash at the moment.

thanks

The has problems starting very hard motor kicks
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:29 PM   #2
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Smoke test that engine(check under engine compartment also) , could be your valve cover gasket and yes many other stuff, but since u went cheap about unknown maf brand... U better purchase the real part oem with same part number.

I once tried other MAF from 325 but since the part number was different the car wouldn't even start as for the sonata 2001 maf. I would start but keep ses on an still come on after erased but still drive..

So I figured maf is really big deal on this cars, could cause those symptoms you have on ZHP.


Vaccum line? From 2nd air pump..
Idle control valve ELBOW? Oil separator leak? Disa o-ring? Intake manifold gasket? The exhaust ,torx to spec?

Any CEL ?

Last edited by Gus330vrum; 02-25-2012 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:12 PM   #3
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Hi thanks for the reply mate im going to try and source the oem maf, the weird thing is the problems interiment , i took the car out for a spin today and it started and ran fine apart from the usual slight dip when hard accelrating.

Surely if it was a leak of sum sort it the car would have symptoms all the time?
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:19 PM   #4
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Should read over the link in my signature below - Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle

Hard starting may also be fuel related, camshaft sensor related or air/vacuum leak related??

But what is hard starting? Cranks over fine, no ignition, or cranks over slow?

You also need to rule out battery/charging as well, but it is hard to tell for sure from your description. Also get codes read with a BMW specific scan tool.
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:51 PM   #5
CH715
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Yeh in terms of hard start its like it turns over fine but at last minute doesnt catch? If that makes any sense after a few times cranking it will start, whats got me confused is sometimes its complety fine,

Im defo going to get the codes read to get a better idea
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Old 02-25-2012, 05:17 PM   #6
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If you do decide to replace the MAF don't bother with the $400 OEM one. Get the Hyundai Sonata replacement for $150 (see http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=783659)

Neil
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:39 AM   #7
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Hi guys today i notice Some tape from a pipe near the engine the one nearest the water resvoir for screenwash looks like it connects to the radatior, i removed the tape and found it was completly snapped! Does anyone know what it does and could this be causing my problems?

Also as per previous comments re secondary vacum pump iv noticed that if i leave the car running for about 2mins then drive off it does not stall? Also can hear a whislte under hard accelration any ideas please
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:13 AM   #8
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Replace that hose for one.

Remove the hose from Sap going to valve and check the inlet for the valve for gunk clogging it...from the decomposed SAP hose...pull gunk out with dental pick/tweezers if you see it. Happened to me too...at least very similar symptoms.

I does sound like an intake leak also, and that might also be because the hose from the valve (tiny vac line) is also cracked.

There's a diy smoke test you could try...if you have a cigar around!

Realoem.com for all part numbers.

HTH
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:56 AM   #9
CH715
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Hi Guys this is going to sound stupid but i dont think i have a secondary air pump, iv watched a few videos and it is located right next to the screen wash reservoir however in my car there is just a space where the part should be!

correct me if am wrong but i thought all e46 have secondary air pumps, I thinking its been removed by the previous owner.

Does anyone else e46 have no SAP? i think i may have found the problem
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:06 AM   #10
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IDK if Emissions isn't included on UK models...though later cars had the pump elsewhere. You've seen the pictures of the pump...6" diameter black cylinder around 8" high or so?

After the car is warmed up, though, SAP plays no role...unless you have a leak in one of the hoses. You may also only have one hose, though...again, later models have pump but the valve, I think, it integral to the engine somewhere...but I'm not sure.

Pic of that hose you found with tape on it?
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CH715 View Post
Hi Guys this is going to sound stupid but i dont think i have a secondary air pump, iv watched a few videos and it is located right next to the screen wash reservoir however in my car there is just a space where the part should be!

correct me if am wrong but i thought all e46 have secondary air pumps, I thinking its been removed by the previous owner.

Does anyone else e46 have no SAP? i think i may have found the problem

In america we all e46 owners have 2nd air pump, plays big part on the o2 sensors on warm up time.



http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...03&hg=11&fg=45

it should be 1 big hose going to the valve attach outer RIGHT side engine , then from valve the small hose is going to the back intake manifold connecter sensor.. then from connecter sensor there is 3 more SAME SIZE hose , going to some other pump and locations underneath the intake manifold.
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:32 PM   #12
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Hi Guys heres a picture of my engine bay and the snapped hose in question, any thoughts?
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Old 02-26-2012, 02:41 PM   #13
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I'm not seeing what your cracked hose is...if your hand is on it in the second picture, thats an AC pipe and the black cap is where you'd attach a hose for filling/evacuating it.

I noticed some green gunk around the temp sensor on the lower radiator hose...looks like something is green there anyway...I always notice green! The intake air temp sensor o-ring will fit on that sensor...and you can just pull it out without worrying about cooling coming out. None will. Disconnect the connector, squeeze tabs, wiggle a bit, pull up, replace o-ring.

You can't go to a dealer and ask for the o-ring on the cooling temp sensor, though...you have to ask for the IAT one...just saying.

If it is the AC hose that's cracked...that's not leading to your stalling issue...unless, either the AC tensioner or compressor is seized...that'd hold back things enough to maybe lead to your symptoms. Easy way to test that would be to just remove that belt...spin things to check condition of pulleys...if one is bad, replace both tensioner pulleys and the idler...just coz they'd all fail around the same time.

But, don't think any of that is leading to your issue.

Search realoem by your vin and see if you have an emission air control pump...it'd be under 'engine.'

So, which hose are we talking about?
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:09 PM   #14
CH715
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Thanks for clarying dmax, yeh the snapped hose is the one iv got my hand on the ac so thats probably not the issue pulleys and belts seem ok, im still thinking its ethier an air leak or the crappy maf i put in is not suitable. Strange thing is its when i installed it seemd to have solved my probs for a few weeks, the green gunk was actuallt the tape that ws holding the ac pipe well spotted!

Im going to remove the upper intake boots and check for rips and give the throttle body a good clean and see if that helps, if not think il go to the garage for a smoke test to eliminate air leaks then go from there,

Wts the best way to determine if the maf is kaput?
Cheers
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:27 PM   #15
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Disconnect the maf. If your car runs better, it's either maf or an intake leak...odds are against it being both.

You could plug the intake boot with plastic bag and rubber band then stick a hose in the intake tube...maybe in the upper boot where the hose/hoses leave it. Blow smoke in and see where it comes out. I hope you smoke! Not good for you, but good for diy smoke testing!

That's a start anyway...something to keep you occupied!

If you clean the TB, might as well do icv too. Maf can also be cleaned...with maf cleaner. Use tb cleaner on tb and icv.

Then there's disa also in the neighborhood. The o-ring on them leaks too...if you have an o-ring...some I hear just have a factory rtv seal.

Think of the three things your car needs...air, fuel, spark. Get codes read if you can and report them here.

In the US, Autozone reads them for free...not sure about in the UK...maybe a local fanatic in your regional forum has a code reader or PC with proper software to save you some money.

Oh, your original maf might be good too...and it was just an intake leak...so part of your playing around might include cleaning that and trying it too...especially if you find an intake leak. Usually, aftermarket electronics don't play nice with our cars...that's the rumor, anyway.

Fuel...could be a bad fuel filter...signs of fuel pump going out...a batch of bad gas, clogged injectors (Techron is nice if you can get it...or some other injector/fuel system treatment--bmw has it here at dealers if you can't find it. It won't fix you 100%, though some have found running a couple of consecutive tanks of it helps a lot.

Don't forget the cleaning of icv...and go crazy doing that...get at least a whole can of cleaner just for that...and clean it until you can hear the valve clicking hard. You'll understand when you start cleaning it...but I like the icv for stalling when starting.

I think you'll find an intake leak though, but might as well do the rest while in the neighborhood anyway...won't hurt...not expensive to clean stuff.

Finally, as $$$ allows, you can get a gasket for the TB, o-ring for disa too.

There are many places you can leak air in after the maf, and hopefully the smoke will get you closer. You have a good led flashlight and inspection mirror?
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:27 PM   #16
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Thanks mate iv actually got some hope i can fix this problem myself, iv got a normal flash light but if i remove the boots should i be able to see the rips? Also was took a drive on the highway doing about 70mph an i swear i could heae a whistle coming from the maf area especially when accelrating hard could just be my imagination though

Cheers.
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:34 PM   #17
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whistles at speed seem to often be that elbow off the lower intake boot. Hard to see, even with inspection mirror, honestly.

If going there, pick up the boot anyway for $12 or so (usd).

You'll want a 6mm socket to loosen the clamp which is hiding below the boot...loosen, swing it up top, and then use a long screwdriver to loosen it enough to remove it...is what I did anyway.

But, other intake leaks would or could whistle also. The lower boot is just our most popular leak is all...but there are vac hoses, and things like disa/tb/brake booster...and then, things like the oil cap or dipstick 0-rings too.
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Old 03-02-2012, 06:06 PM   #18
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Hi guys jusy thought id update, im going to carry out the above repairs/checks tomorrow changing the intake boots an checking for further air leaks,

Just bn driving an iv noticed the car drives ok when cold but once the engine is warm and i turn off ignition then try to restart this is when i get hard starting problems and stalling, any ideas? Could it be related to the possible air leak?
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:36 AM   #19
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Bump
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:05 PM   #20
CH715
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sorry for the very late post, I usually hate it when the person who asks the question never bother to put how the problem was solved. In this case it was new Camshaft position sensors both exhaust and opp side. Also fitted a new maf which solved the rough idle
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