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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 08-02-2013, 01:38 PM   #21
lmr2wil
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The other check for the stuck heater valve is to turn on the air conditioning right after starting the car in the morning. If the temperature is still lopsided, then the issue is not likely to be the heater valve.

Luke
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Old 08-02-2013, 01:42 PM   #22
turnerg1
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Originally Posted by lmr2wil View Post
The other check for the stuck heater valve is to turn on the air conditioning right after starting the car in the morning. If the temperature is still lopsided, then the issue is not likely to be the heater valve.

Luke
The only difference Ive noticed is that the AC will be working fine one minute, there is a slight woosh sound and then its blowing warmer air.
If I select one of the arrow buttons for upper middle, or lower, it will blow air out that vent for a minute then woosh no air. Only a mad rush out the defroster.

Greg
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Old 08-02-2013, 05:21 PM   #23
lmr2wil
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Originally Posted by turnerg1 View Post
The only difference Ive noticed is that the AC will be working fine one minute, there is a slight woosh sound and then its blowing warmer air.
If I select one of the arrow buttons for upper middle, or lower, it will blow air out that vent for a minute then woosh no air. Only a mad rush out the defroster.

Greg
That sounds like a different issue entirely. In both the stuck heater valve and the low refrigerant scenarios, you should be getting air flow out of all open vents chosen by the heater controls. However, the temperature of that air will be different between the driver's side and passenger's. Are you actually getting blocked airflow rather than warm?

Luke
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Old 08-03-2013, 07:50 AM   #24
turnerg1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmr2wil View Post
That sounds like a different issue entirely. In both the stuck heater valve and the low refrigerant scenarios, you should be getting air flow out of all open vents chosen by the heater controls. However, the temperature of that air will be different between the driver's side and passenger's. Are you actually getting blocked airflow rather than warm?

Luke
when in auto mode or with just the fan speed selection I get air out of all vents but its warmer in the center console.(yes I know the red/blue dial) If I select one of the directional buttons (upper lower middle) it will blow to that section for a moment until something happens (i hear the woosh sound) and all air is directed out the upper defrost.
Now if the AC is working properly none of the above happens and its ice cold working fine. This is only random.
I had the dealer look at it at purchase and they said it was the blend flap behind the dash and they fixed it (they said) but that lasted only 4 months. I suspect it is the same thing again but I was hoping not.
Im not sure how to get to that flap.
The other issue I notice is when I have the AC on in auto and turn the temp up to say 80 or 85F when the outside temp says 70. I still get cool air not warm and the fan speed never goes slow. It stays at say 5-6 bars.
I dont think these are related.

Thanks,

Greg
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Old 04-14-2015, 03:35 PM   #25
jpflip@videotron.c
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Amazing this site!!! Again another answer to my problem....I had cooling only on driver side and my problem was low refrigerant pressure...Thanks again guys for your help!!!
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:06 AM   #26
BaliDawg
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Sounds like you need to check the flaps.
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Old 06-21-2017, 09:45 AM   #27
needafix
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Originally Posted by always-there View Post
Expansion valve. Have a a/c expert/tech replace it, vacuum it and recharge it, you're good to go.


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I have had the compressor, dryer/filter, orfus tube (i think that is the expansion valve located around the steering wheel behind dashboard) changed. Still experiencing no air conditioning.

Last edited by needafix; 06-21-2017 at 09:46 AM.
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