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The Showroom
This is the place to show off your BMW to other members of the community. Post pictures and videos of your car and the modifications you have done to it. If you need a picture of something on a coupe, sedan, convertible or touring you will probably find it here!

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Old 03-21-2017, 12:36 AM   #1
01_325ci
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My Ride: 2001 325ci 5-speed
2001 325ci 5-speed [maintenance thread]

I was thinking to create this threat since I bought the car in Feb. It is a German built 325ci w/ 156k miles, bone stock +17" wheels, HID`s and Harman/Kardon audio

I am picky w/ maintenance and do all by myself saving $$ as possible, will update with jobs done, pictures and details as it comes by.

Car has a minor leak in the transmission, poor torque in lower revs and a rusty exhaust. I was thinking it was the VANOS seals but didn't improve after the repair. Even so car improved 10-15% after all work done.

Parts replaced (brand):
2016 by previous owner
-MAF sensor (SIEMENS 5WK9 608)
-fuel pump (VEMO)
-fuel level sensor/sending unit (Genuine)
-fuel filter w/ pressure regulator (Koolman)
-spark plugs (NGK)
-air filter (MANN)
-all rotors + pads and 2 sensors (Fremax-Jurid F/ Zimmerman-Textar R/ Genuine)
-crankcase vent valve/oil separator + hoses + DISA valve (unknown/aftermarket)
-6x ignition coils (ENA)

Feb 2017 to now
-interior & carpet hygienization
-cleaned throttle body, ICV and MAF
-manual transmission fluid (Genuine)
-differential fluid + bolts w/ washers (Genuine)
-fuel injectors cleaned on ultrasonic machine + upper and lower o-rings + micro filters (VDP/Bosch)
-vanos seals repair kit (i6motorworks)
-valve cover gasket (Victor Reinz)
-both intake/exhaust cam sensors (Genuine)
-oil filter housing gasket (Genuine)
-vanos oil line w/ washers (Rein)
-idler and tensioner pulleys + both serpentine belts + hydraulic tensioner (Mayle/Contitech/INA)
-cabin air filter (Meyle)
-power steering reservoir o-ring (Genuine)
-clutch delay valve delete
-cooling system overhaul:
metal water pump (GEBA)
thermostat (BEHR)
expansion tank + cap + mounting bracket (Genuine)
lower hose on exp tank (Rein)
coolant level sensor (Genuine)
BMW coolant w/ distilled water
pack w/ 20 o-rings for all cooling system hoses/sensors (Ebay kit)
radiator blue plastic bolt w/ o-ring (Genuine)
engine block drain bolt w/ washer (Genuine)
-fixed left fog light and external temp sensor wiring
-fixed front seat forward/backward adjustment lever

------------------------
To do:
-ecu update
-shifter and drive shaft seals (leaking)
-guibo
-shifter rebuilt kit
-rear crankshaft seal seems to have minor leak
-stainless catback.. sport suspension.. bushings.. clutch kit w/ single mass flywheel ($ome day in the future...)
-window tint/ smoked indicators, blinkers, taillights
-black or grey wheels






















Last edited by 01_325ci; 04-24-2017 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 03-21-2017, 12:06 PM   #2
lllRazorlll
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Nice. I recommend you do aluminum/silver ZHP cube trim for the interior and get clear corners/indicators/tails for a nice clean look
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Old 03-25-2017, 03:05 PM   #3
01_325ci
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Originally Posted by lllRazorlll View Post
Nice. I recommend you do aluminum/silver ZHP cube trim for the interior and get clear corners/indicators/tails for a nice clean look
Thanks, I will leave interior as stock as I like how it looks, also the orange indicators, the things I plan to do aesthetically is new light smoked tail lights (my left side looks terrible) and medium or dark window tint on the sides/rear.
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Old 03-25-2017, 03:24 PM   #4
01_325ci
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Injectors cleaned w/ new o-rings and filters, I felt a good improvement on car's performance and throttle response.

Two of my old micro filters were damaged and open, probably parts of the filter went to the injectors.. and for people who like using these injectors cleaners on the tank here is my advise: these products are great to clean the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter... but guess where all the junk stops at..? yes, check below..

Engine oil, transmission and differential fluids also replaced. I don't know why most car manufactures claim these to be life-time, my transm fluid was kind OK (might had been replaced before) but the diff looked like a black goop..

Here is some pics of what was done so far:




]





Last edited by 01_325ci; 04-12-2017 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 03-25-2017, 03:30 PM   #5
01_325ci
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Still missing some parts, they should arrive soon

Last edited by 01_325ci; 04-12-2017 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 04-02-2017, 11:50 PM   #6
01_325ci
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So I did the vanos teflon/viton o-rings repair along with the valve gasket, my old o-rings were pretty bad being not flexible and the pistons were moving freely; After the repair I noticed a slight better response but nothing spectacular, still missing torque at WOT/lower revs. Resistance test on VANOS solenoids came 11ohms both, I don't know the specs but as they came exactly the same I assume they are OK.

Thinking now to reset the ECU/throttle pedal sensor, do a vacuum test and also check both cam sensors operation.

There was also sludge forming on the top of the intake cam plastic cover and above on the valve cover itself (this was a real pain to clean ) I guess this happened due oil separator failure w/ previous owner. But it looks good for 160k miles.









Last edited by 01_325ci; 04-12-2017 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 04-04-2017, 07:08 PM   #7
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Here is some updates:
Vacuum test passed as expected, needle steady/perfect; then jumped to wiring and checked voltage/ground on both VANOS solenoids (also signal wire on those) and the exhaust cam position sensor, the intake sensor was hard to get without taking stuff apart so I skipped it; everything is good as supposed, wiring fault is unlikely to happen but it is a quick-easy test to do.

Monitoring both STFT and O2 sensors while driving/WOT seems all correct between specs, I still going to reset the ECU but really want to update it to the latest version.. hope the dealer will do it for a reasonable (coff coff ) price..

Searching on forums I found intermittent problems on these cam sensors causing exactly same symptoms as mine. I am pretty sure they would throw a code but as people reported not having any and even still fixed/improved after replacement, I went ahead and ordered both @FCPEuro for $90, they say OEM but without brand description, let`s see what is going to arrive here..

Here is the remaining parts that I need to replace;


Last edited by 01_325ci; 04-12-2017 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 04-10-2017, 12:16 AM   #8
01_325ci
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My Ride: 2001 325ci 5-speed
Done this weekend:
Both cam sensors / housing gasket + vanos oil line / belts + pulleys + tensioner / cabin air filter / cleaned battery / power steering reservoir o-ring.

About my last post, FCP Euro is indeed sending genuine sensors for half a price. I have compared with my old ones and they are identical, the BMW logo was removed but the rubber cover doesn`t lie haha.

Update about performance:
Not a single change this time.. wasted money on these sensors.. tested voltage on the intake side and it is OK as spected, then I took the MAF out in order to discover what brand it was (as the top doesn't say a thing) and for my surprise it is genuine, but code ends on 608/Hyundai version..? I was reading this topic, can anyone confirm? http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=752597












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Old 04-11-2017, 07:31 AM   #9
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I'd check to make sure your CCV isn't leaking any oil before you replace the pan gasket. I'd also check to make sure you vanos oil line isn't leaking either.

I probably wouldn't have replaced the sensors if they weren't throwing a code... but that's just me.

Looks like you've got a really nice car. Happy to see other doing all this type of work!
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:59 PM   #10
01_325ci
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Originally Posted by shoman24v View Post
I'd check to make sure your CCV isn't leaking any oil before you replace the pan gasket. I'd also check to make sure you vanos oil line isn't leaking either.

I probably wouldn't have replaced the sensors if they weren't throwing a code... but that's just me.

Looks like you've got a really nice car. Happy to see other doing all this type of work!
Thanks, CCV should be good as the previous owner replaced it completely 5 months ago but I will check.. the leak/sweat is more present on the passenger side. Vanos oil line has already been replaced.

Sure thing on these cam sensors, as I said above this was exactly my thinking process.. but online research tricked me hoping for a quick/easy fix... it is why we should never replace a part without a proper diagnostics, I am trying to figure out this MAF part numbers now before spending more money... testing on a OBDII Bluetooth adapter it seems to respond correctly.

Car runs great after 3.000rpm, before that even at WOT it doesn`t feel like a BMW.. has no torque... reset on the ECU brought no changes.. guess next steps will be testing the TPS and fuel pressure, also thinking on these cheap ENA ignition coils that the PO installed... any other ideas are welcome. Cyl compression test passed as expected -all between 185-192PSI.

Removed the clutch delay valve yesterday, I highly recommend this 20min job it if you drive a manual... car feels completely different and sharp @launches


Last edited by 01_325ci; 04-13-2017 at 01:42 AM.
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Old 04-13-2017, 08:09 AM   #11
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FYI your title says "maintenance threat" instead of "maintenance thread"
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Old 04-13-2017, 09:41 AM   #12
01_325ci
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lllRazorlll View Post
FYI your title says "maintenance threat" instead of "maintenance thread"
Fixed!
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Old 04-15-2017, 06:29 PM   #13
mrdad1
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Sounds like mine I replaced the fuel pump and it's great


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Old 04-16-2017, 12:11 AM   #14
01_325ci
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More work today

Replaced expansion tank w/ cap and sensor, mounting bracket + its hose (this was leaking), water pump and thermostat; plus main hoses received a good clean + new o-rings then finished with 50/50 BMW coolant-distilled water.

Thermostat was almost leaking by the gasket, a fine sandpaper didn't cleared the imperfections completely so I ended using some RTV to make sure.

Level sensor was definitely bad/broken inside, all colored in red lol. Had the "add coolant" light turning on-off intermittently when cold/heater on. Should be solved w/ the new sensor lets wait and see...

My expansion tank had the famous crack on the side, it was not leaking there but it revels itself when pressed..

Was also good to see that the oil filter housing/pan is clean as I left when installed the new gasket. Also took a better look on the oil pan and the sweat seems to be from a power steering hose.. pan looks dry in general

















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Old 04-16-2017, 01:34 AM   #15
01_325ci
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Sounds like mine I replaced the fuel pump and it's great


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Thanks I have this listed to check, update on performance so far:
I was coming back from work last Thursday and car suddenly restored full power BUT only until I got home... 2~2.5krpms in a hill 3th gear, hit the gas and felt a bunch of torque like never before! started to film to have a base and kept accelerating, downshifted to second, stopped-launched and yes it was finally pulling like it should

Unfortunately it didn't fixed itself, I got home shut-down and next start was back on low torque.. I think one of the VANOS solenoids are not activating somehow.. will get some electrical cleaner and spray on those connectors as I know solenoids resistance seems ok and there is voltage available on both..

Some notes are, this day was warmer around 60F and I have switched to a different gas station the night before -Shell to PB.

Relating to fuel pump;
I switched gas stations because Shell messed up my fuel gauge (maybe it is just a unfortunate coincidence).. it is marking 3/4 instead full tank now and cluster reset didn't fixed.

Previous owner had this exact same problem and replaced both fuel pump/sending unit/fuel filter and wiring in a specialized shop. I should have checked this when bought the car.. will take the rear seat out tomorrow and do a voltage drop/resistance test on all wiring there and a visual inspection.. then will check fuel pressure too.

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Old 04-24-2017, 10:22 PM   #16
01_325ci
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Here is some updates;
Fuel pressure came 60PSI steady @idle, was unable to do a run test unfortunately. Removed seat and tested wiring, all in good shape both "pumps" are new.

I was paranoid about this performance issue so recorded a video pulling until 6.5k rpm in first, second and third gears, then downloaded some 325i acceleration videos from youtube and compared pausing by frame in a video editor software.

Results are interesting, first and second gears are too fast and hard to define a base, but 3th gear starting from 4500rpm (shift point from sec) until 6300rpm (second mark before 6500) gets 5.20~5.30sec on most of them, including my car that did in 5.22.

So as I thought acceleration is good @higher revs, just feels sluggish to launch and I am thinking it might be due the hole in the exhaust or clutch/driveshaft related even it has no noises-slipping… IDK, covered the basics and everything seems to be working properly. Will have to drive another 325i to compare.

Did few days ago:
-Proper oil change, was surprised to see that Mobil1 is not approved by BMW anymore
-Fixed driver seat that was not moving forward/backwards (broken plastic pin)
-Fixed left fog light and temperature sensor wiring (plastic cover was broken /wiring damaged)

Parts here to do next:
-Shifter repair kit, mine is very loose sideways
-Transmission shifter and drive-shaft seals + guibo

This will be fun due actual exhaust status... I might need to replace this whole thing anyway..









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Old 04-25-2017, 05:42 AM   #17
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Your work is amazing.....

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Old 04-25-2017, 09:55 AM   #18
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You said aftermarket unknown disa valve. Have you checked it's operation? Everything else looks good, looks like you're covering everything. Amazing for me to see rust like that on the trans and dif.


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Old 04-26-2017, 10:54 PM   #19
01_325ci
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Your work is amazing.....

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Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BKMrSteel View Post
You said aftermarket unknown disa valve. Have you checked it's operation? Everything else looks good, looks like you're covering everything. Amazing for me to see rust like that on the trans and dif.
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Yes, removed DISA and checked operation using a snap-on scan tool (self-test) and it is ok, o-ring ok. I didn't really check if it is OEM or not just assumed due poor looking plastic.. will take it out again to confirm.

Unfortunately 90% of cars here in Michigan look like that underneath.. there are exceptions of course but I couldn't let pass this coupe-manual the moment I saw it

It looks terrible but as far as I saw it doesn't go deep, stays like dirty/superficial, will need extra care tough.

I am surprised with the suspension for its age/rust, feels very solid, no vibrations @higher speeds, has new control arms/bushings and no leaks on the OEM struts plus all wheel bearings are in good shape, only problems I noticed is some rear bushings and a tiny crack on the famous E46 points.. as it is just one and really small I rather not mess with it right now.

Here is more rust on the exhaust..


but.. I will miss its current "V8" sound..

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