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Which RTAB would you buy?

33K views 30 replies 19 participants last post by  sakumaxp 
#1 ·
I need to replace my RTAB's and am having some trouble finding the sturdiest one of all:

Lemfoerder PN 33326770786

(Half/Half casings)

Lemfoerder PN 33322228153

(Single casing)

OEM M3 PN 33326770817


Meyle PN 33322228153



I'm noticing that there are models with "split casing/housing" and others in "full casing/housings". See attachment... I'm guessing that the full housing will retain the rear-toe more in spec during heavy cornering and acceleration?

I don't want a flimsy floating feeling, what is the recommended RTAB?

Thanks
 

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#4 ·
I would highly recommend either the OEM M3 or the Meyle HD, part # 3003332104/HD, which uses a similar construction. Note that this Meyle part number is different than the one you listed above - not sure but that may be the old BMW part number that you listed. The flanged design is the older design that BMW has moved away from, the split casing is the newer design. When installed, the 2 halves of the casing are squeezed together compressing, and stiffening, the rubber interior.

You won't have a flimsy floaty feeling with either of the above recommended new bushings but if you want additional toe control that will also help the bushings last longer, I would also recommend that you pair them with a set of Vorshlag limiters:
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_8_29&products_id=59

I'm running these limiters with OEM M3 bushings and it's a great setup.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I would also recommend that you pair them with a set of Vorshlag limiters:
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_8_29&products_id=59

I'm running these limiters with OEM M3 bushings and it's a great setup.
For the Vorshlag limiters, are these just plastic washers that go at the ends of the RTAB's WITHOUT any drilling?

I'd recommend the lemforder M3's over the Meyle.
Thanks jpr. PelicanParts shows the Lemforder M3 bushing as the old PN 33322228153 and the old single piece housing. What do you think?




And the OEM M3 from PelicanParts (33326770817)
 
#5 ·
I think I will go for the Meyle HD (3003332104) and as backup the OEM M3 (33326770817). The UUC's are just too stiff for my huse and I don't want to deal with the possibility of creaks.

For some reason, autohausaz.com only shows me the Lemfoerder M3 bushings and not the OEM ones. Does anyone have recommended places for the Meyle HD RTAB's?
 
#22 ·
Was supposed to put in the M3 RTABs with Rogue Engineering shims today but ran out of time. Flexing both RTAB brackets with the original RTABs (half-casing) still felt very firm.

So I just installed the shims on the original RTABs just to check out the difference. What I noticed after installing the shims was that even with the RTAB bolt torqued to the spec 81 ft-lbs, with some force I could rotate the bracket around the RTAB unlike before. I noticed this while trying to do the 16mm bar (pre-loading) routine in the TIS and Bentley. So instead of the RTAB metal sleeve being fixed and unmovable relative to the bracket like before, the bracket and shims are now sliding/rotating against the RTAB rubber protrusions.

So basically it now acts like a bearing instead of a springy bushing. Is this the correct behavior for the shims or did I get ones that are a tad too thick and caused the bracket not to lock with the RTAB metal sleeve? :hmm:
 
#26 ·
The way the bushings are supposed to work is that the rubber is supposed to do all the flexign the metal inside and outside is supposed to remain stationary in resepect to the part they are bolted to. That way there is no wear on the metal parts
 
#28 ·
Hello BMW Experts!
I had m3 RTABs + limiters, and they felt very good at first. Mine were totally shot at ~ 43k miles, though.
So I recently put in UUC red urethane RTABs, which have a 75A hardness rating, softer than the powerflex (85a & up) ones, etc. They also have big channels which should help hold extra grease, making the intervals between re-greaseing longer & lessening the noise potential (mine are silent).
Of course these things are hard to really compare, but I think they make the car more stable than the m3/limiter combo. They should last much longer without deteriorating (if greased properly initially) also. They might take some kinds of bumps a little harder, but generally they have no NHV drawbacks.
YMMV!

Murf :woot:
 
#31 ·
I have had them for a little under or just about a year, and no noise, and about the durometer # sorry I don't, I just told my shop what I wanted and they took care of the rest. Once you get them in you can feel a big diff, the rear will feel more planted to the ground
 
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