E46 Fanatics Forum banner

Car veers left and right

6K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  WDE46 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi so I've been noticing that my car kind of veers left and right, aka if it veers to the left a bit, i correct it and then it will veer to the right abit, it isn't alot of veering, but i would have to correct it a bit, and the car wouldn't really go straight(not touch the steering wheel for a while). I had thought it was just me, until i let my mom and dad drive my car, and they said it too it was happening.

I had replaced all 4 tires(staggered) on the car before this problem, and the tires were "balanced". I had also got the car a "alignment job".

Would this issue be the tires aren't balanced correctly or the alignment job was bad?
I have the specs for the alignment.
<a href="http://imgur.com/vvuqD"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/vvuqDl.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com" alt="" /></a>
 
#6 · (Edited)
Balancing would cause vibration, not pull. Check to make sure that your tires were mounted in the correct treadwear direction. Sometimes tire places can mix up sides. Alignment looks decent enough to where it wouldn't cause pull. If tires are fine check front control arms bushings and rear trailer arm bushings for wear or cracks.


Defective tires can cause pull but I have never experienced that in 12 years of car ownership.
 
#7 ·
I just checked the tires and they are directional and have the "v" thread pointing towards the front of the car. Tires are hankook ventus v12 so i don't think they are defective.

Also i forgot to mention, that on the alignment job report, it states that he heard a slight ticking noise coming from the passenger side, but was okayed on a basic inspection. Could this potentially be the arm bushings you said?
 
#8 · (Edited)
Two ways to check the bushings:
1- roll windows down. If you hear a slight knock come from the front as you come to a complete stop or accelerate from a dead stop they are bad.
2- take your wheel wrench and loosen one of your bolts on your front wheels while the car is on the ground. If you notice the wheel moving back and forth while the rest of the car stays in place they are bad.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Bushings are easy. If you buy them pre pressed the fronts will take no more than a couple hours with a 3 jaw puller and the rears another 2 hours with the bushing puller from bimmerworld. You'll save a ton of money.

If he does bushings and arms at the dealer it will be almost $1000.

Anyway, he needs to replace the front control arms, front control arm bushings, rear trailing arm bushings, and the steering flex coupler (guibo). the car will drive like new after that.
 
#11 ·
Impropperly balanced tires usually only create a vibration.
There are numerous things that can cause the symptoms you mentioned, and it is probably not one single item. I suspect that none of the suspension components have been replaced in your car, and they are all probably past due. Start with the control arms and FCAB's, and the RTAB's. You probably want to change the shocks and struts as well, and all of the mounting hardware, especially the rear shock mounts. The last items to address would be the front hubs and bearings, and the rear bearings, as well as the sway bar bushings and the front and rear swar bar connectors. The front sway bar connectors really should be changed along with the front struts. All of this does not need to be done at once, but you should probably attack it in the order I listed, to get the most bang for your buck.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Hi i'd like to give a update. I've been looking around and i kinda stumbled on this thing called the "steering coupler" on how if it is worn it would cause the steering wheel to have some "play" in it.
I to be honest never even noticed the "play" until i saw a video of this guy who supposively has a bad steering coupler
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1EyPwb8dWk, <- not me :>
and i went to my car, and i did a test drive and i have the exact same problem. And i guess this is why it is hard for me to drive in a straight line lol.

The problem i have is the diy seems alot harder than any of the diys i have done before (i didnt do much diy but i did replace the rain tray and replaced the pulleys and belts). It also seems to have more of a "risk" of me messing stuff up. Aka my alignment :<

Has anyone replaced the steering coupler? How hard was it? What are my chances of screwing something up, i'm kind of scared because this is my steering im dealing with.
Link to DIY: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=13077875

Also i might look into bringing it into a indy shop or dealer to check out my control arm bushings.
ATM the car is "drivable" i adapted to controlling the car with the play in the steering wheel.
 
#25 · (Edited)
I mentioned the steering guibo in my previous post in this thread. I just replaced mine this weekend and my car drives so much better. I still need tierods but the guibo helped immensley. The repair is not that hard. Here is what you need to do.

tools:

#2 Phillips
8mm socket and small ratchet (I used a ratcheting combination wrench, it was perfect)
PB Blaster
Long Flathead (at least 15 inches total length including handle), this is to knock out the old piece.
Rubber mallet

1. either lift the front of the car on jack stands or use ramps (the wheels don't have to be unloaded), and lock the steering wheel by turning it a bit when the car is off.

2. remove plastic cover

3. use the 8mm wrench on the bolts holding guibo to the rack and column and remove them (these may need PB blaster also).

4. Spray clamp area on column and rack with PB blaster (wait 15-20 minutes).

5. take your huge flathead and come in from the front where you just removed the plastic cover. You can see the coupler through some engine parts. Put your flat head edge in the right angle joint formed by the metal piece that the rubber attaches to.

6. wack the **** out of the flathead handle until the couple pops off.

7. install new coupler in reverse of the old removal. after you get the coupler to slip on the column and rack, install new bolts with threadlocker if not applied already.

8. replace plastic under cover

9. drive car with new steering feel and control

Tip: if you cant get the new coupler to slide onto the rack's splines, you will have to unlock the steering wheel and let the coupler turn to the next spline over. This will make your steering off center, but a front end alignment can take car of this later. You may be able to keep the wheel locked and use an adjustable wrench to apply torque to the column and get the coupler to slide on (I thought of this after I already put it on).
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top