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Suspension Quick Reference Thread

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84K views 41 replies 23 participants last post by  lupin..the..3rd 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Since we finally have a forum for suspension and brakes, it's time to crap it up with threads. First order of business is giving people a place to start. These are just a few things to get the ball rolling. Now that the E46 is a more affordable option for people, the community can only grow. We need quicker access to information so new people don't crap up the forum. This thread is for posting useful links to information about suspensions bother generally, and focused on the E46 chassis.

General Suspension Resources

E46 Suspension Information (Many thanks to JPR)
 
#3 ·
I wish I could edit so I could add more as I go...
 
#7 ·
Here's some more suspension goodness -

Swaybar noise solutions - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=380005

Sway bar upgrades using factory BMW parts - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=371422

BMW Performance Suspension Kit - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=537216

What coilovers perform the best while not slamming the car itself? - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=539125

Bulletproofing your Suspension: What next? - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=523207

** simsima325 - consolidation into the top post would be beneficial, thanks for offering to take care of that
 
#8 ·
Oh JPR, you're the man!
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
Do I need a front/rear strut tower bar?
Short answer : No
Long answer : If you have a few hundred to burn, then go ahead. The front bar has some minute effect, as does the rear. Putting in a front bar looks cool, and will have little/no negative impact on your vehicle. 323/328 vehicles need updated strut hats with longer studs. Rear bars take up trunk space, and don't do much. You will get mixed reviews, but as a whole they won't net you any real benifits.
 
#13 ·
Toe-in or -out

I was looking at the alignment specs and the alignment sheet from my dealer and it appears that my car (2002 330Ci) has toe-out on both the front and rear axles. Is this correct? Every other car I have had had toe-in, espcially in the rear. I have used toe-out for track events but not on the street.

Bob
 
#14 ·
I was looking at the alignment specs and the alignment sheet from my dealer and it appears that my car (2002 330Ci) has toe-out on both the front and rear axles. Is this correct? Every other car I have had had toe-in, espcially in the rear. I have used toe-out for track events but not on the street.

Bob
Bob -
I believe you are misunderstanding the specs. Toe in is cited as a positive number, toe out is cited as a negative number. The toe specification for all E46's calls for toe-in front and rear.
 
#15 ·
Thanks JPR for the quick response. I thought that would be the case but it pays to make sure. Unfortunately I now have to look for another cause of the squirrely handling that I have. I had the car aligned after I replaced the bushings and control arms. The car is a 2002 330ci with 55k miles, It has UUC rear trailing arm bushings and Powerflex front control arm bushings. I replaced the front control arms last summer. Tires are Goodyear F1 Asymetrical. The car trammels terribly. Uneven roads cause it to pull to the left or right, quite hard sometimes. In hard corners it is pretty stable. Not sure what the problem is.
Any suggestions where to look would be appreciated.
 
#16 ·
Just because you got the alignment done does not necessarily mean that you got a good alignment done. If you haven't done so already, check out the links to alignment info in this thread, then if you've got a copy of your alignment report, post it in a new thread and we'll take a look at it.
 
#17 ·
I have 2002 330ci convertible and trying to replace the rear shocks. In the rrepair manual and couple of other sites say that we can reach the upper mount of the shock from the "top storage compartment". Where is it? Is at reachable from the trunk or where? Is it a big space and easy to work at?

Any help appaciated.

Thanks

Kubi
 
#19 ·
I would argue with the post about not needing a strut tower bar, my passenger side pinch weld has a hairline crack and a friend just had both of this fail...

Popped in here to hopefully find some information, I'll keep on searching...
 
#20 ·
Hi.. I'm no expert but I have had cars geo'd for track which can cause darting and / or tramlining

Check your settings against recommendations, specially camber and toe.

....and if you have lowered it a lit check caster

Check everything ;-)

Sent from my HTC Incredible S using Bimmer App
 
#21 ·
As a leading suspension Warehouse Distributor here in Texas (for B&G, Eibach, H&R, KONI, Prothane - and even Air Lift with air suspension), we have some great tips and info on suspension we can contribute to this thread. They're very, very common questions that we asked day-after-day-after-day 365 days per year. This stuff will help you decide which suspension to go with based on what you need, what you like, where you live and what you think fits your car. Oh, and then there is the oh-so-common, "Can I run lowering springs with my stock shocks?" Is that not the age-old questions on suspension or what? Here we go - check it out!

SPRINGS WITH SHOCKS VS. COILOVERS VS. AIR SUSPENSION

You see tons and tons of threads asking what suspension one should go with on their vehicle. Much like a set of wheels, a good steak, a cold beer (or even a hot woman), very few men want the same thing from their suspension. We're pretty much all different, have different driving habits, want to go in a different direction with our projects, drive our cars more or less daily (or weekly) than the next fella, and last, but not least, live in different parts of the country (or state) where driving conditions make all the difference in the world with the suspension you decide to go with. We'll go out on a limb here and say that we're probably one of the few (if only) shops around with *in-house* shop cars that run on every darn combo you can think of - air suspension (Air Lift), coilovers (both KONI and B&G) springs with shocks (Eibach Pro-Kit with Bilstein HD), springs with shocks (NEUSPEED Sports with KONI Adjustable Sports) and yet another vehicle on a different combo of springs with shocks (a KONI FSD Eibach kit), ranging from a MK1 VW, a MK2 VW, a MK3 VW, an Audi B6 A4, a Suburban tow vehicle, two VW Corrados, a Mazda3 and an RX-7. Oh, and we'll be picking up a 335xi inside the next 180 days as a Bimmer project (our first) and it'll be on a set of coilovers that are TBA once we obtain the car. Yes, we like to collect cars and take up useless (or would that be precious?) space with them. The point? That we have the best of all worlds right here at our facility on each of our own in-house cars, drive them every day (and drive them hard), giving you hands-on experience and real world situations with air vs. coilovers vs. springs with matched shocks (both adjustable and non-adjustable). Without a doubt, there is a benefit and downside to each and no two people want the same thing from their suspension, hence why we have different vehicles here within our in-house projects all with different setups on them. Below will give you the breakdown of each:

SPRINGS WITH SHOCKS:

Because of cost, this is by far the most popular combination when choosing a performance suspension for your vehicle. This setup can pretty much give you the same benefits of coilovers without the ride height adjustability (that is if using KONI Sport Shocks). Rebound dampening adjustability (if using KONI Sport Shocks) can also be tailor-mated to the spring of your choice, again, giving you the same exact options of a good coilover kit. The downside, however, is that unlike coilovers or air, you cannot adjust the ride height. Determining what drop is right for you (i.e. .75", 1", 1.5", 2", etc) and deciding on what springs to go with (B&G, Eibach, H&R, Vogtland, NEUSPEED) is the biggest challenge. How low (or not low) do you want to go? Do you want the option of adjusting them for softness or firmness, or would you simply like a non-adjustable shock like the KONI Street (Orange) Shocks or Bilstein Sport Shocks?

COILOVER KITS:

No different than a spring with shock combo, but with the ability to adjust ride height and rebound dampening adjustability (kit dependent). Some kits on the market today offer rebound dampening and some do not (the difference being $$$$). All will offer ride height adjustments, though. Typically used for racing (most notably for corner balancing), coilovers are going to typically cost more than a spring and shock combo, but not typically as much as an air ride system. Most "real world" coilover users today are typically buying coilovers for the "idea" of having them and not necessarily for what they're intended for (racing and corner balancing). What we've found with a majority of our customers is that they're buying coilovers for their cars, dialing them in with ride height and dampening (where applicable) where they like it, then never, ever touching them again. That is nice and all, but somewhat defeats the purpose of spending $1000+ (or more) on a "racing" suspension, no? If you're comfortable with the 1.5" to 2" range (which is where a majority of your daily drivers are), why not just do a good spring with shock kit? A quality spring and shock combo (for a lot less money) will get you the same exact results with improved handling and steering response - and again - that adjustability should you go with a KONI Sport Shock. Ultimately, it's the end user's decision on what he wants to do, but nowadays it seems that most people just want to be able to say, "I have coilovers!" as opposed to actually using them for the track or the other types of racing they're intended for.

AIR SUSPENSION:

Obviously, air is going to be the most superior in "adjustability" options when it comes to suspension. Air ride is not a full-on "racing" suspension, but nor is a spring and shock combination necessarily one, either. For real world conditions (i.e. daily driving with occasional "spirited driving"), an air setup can be the perfect solution for those wanting comfort and ride height adjustability. Air will indeed ride the best in respect to comfort, but also comes with a price tag and minor trunk space loss that springs with shocks or coilovers do not have you sacrificing (hopefully you don't play golf). Even then, however, there are kits available with small compressors and tanks where a good portion of your trunk can be retained with false floors, hiding components, etc (something we can do for you here in-house at MJM). We recently removed coilovers on one of our cars (our B6 Audi A4 1.8TQ as seen in this month's "Eurotuner Magazine") and replaced it with air and two things were immediately evident:

1) The handling did not change whatsoever.

2) The ride comfort did indeed get better after changing over to air.

Air ride, however, is not for everyone, but on the particular car we did it on here at our facility, we would not go back to any other suspension setup and the difference is night and day over coilovers. In hindsight, we wish we would have made the decision to bag one of our cars a lot earlier than we did. It's cool for only about 101 different reasons, but not exactly something we want on each and every one of our 9 in-house project cars here at MJM, and again, it's certainly not for everyone (as they say, to each his own).

Suspension makes up for a fair percentage of our business here and we have experience with pretty much every single combination of setups you could imagine. Feel free to email us through our site (www.mjmautohaus.com) for some 1-on-1 consultation on what would work best for you based on your driving style, driving habits, road conditions, performance desires and budget for suspension modding. From Air Lift to B&G Suspension to Eibach to H&R Special Springs and KONI Shocks, we here in South Texas keep more *in-stock* suspension part numbers than any single distributor in our region and have experience with any setup your little heart desires (and have experimented with every combination imaginable). Whether you want the "static" of the firm and denture-loosing setup of something like an H&R Race Spring (or Eibach Sportline) with KONI's famed adjustable Sport Shock or the OEM + and OEM feel of an KONI FSD Shock Kit (that rides better than a factory car), we're here to serve you with what most folks want to do first with their car - THE SUSPENSION! Feel free to hit us up if we can help or if you have any questions.

CAN I RUN STOCK SHOCKS WITH MY NEW LOWERING SPRINGS? WILL I BLOW THEM?

Yes, any aftermarket sport spring with a more aggressive spring rate than your stock springs can certainly blow your OEM dampers with time (dependent upon a few factors). Obviously the type of spring you're running (i.e. a mild Eibach Pro-Kit vs. H&R Race) will determine how fast, or if at all, your shocks decide to go. In addition, the mileage and condition of your stock shock, as well as how you drive, will always factor in to these things. Fact is, your stock shocks' valving just isn't equipped to handle that of an aftermarket performance spring. Are there thousands upon thousands of cars running the street today with aftermarket lowering springs mated to stock shocks? Yes, there are; tons and tons of them. Just give it some time, though; they'll eventually (with time) start to feel harsh and the ride start to get worse and worse. Ask anyone with over 15K miles on a stock shock mated with lowering spring on how they feel like they're car rides and watch what they tell you. Now obviously, however, if you put a set of performance springs on a new car (or one with low mileage), your window of opportunity to drive on it like that is much bigger.

Being the sole Warehouse Distributor the Southern US for B&G, Eibach, H&R and KONI (together), we here at MJM have tons of experience with each and every suspension setup you can think of (we even do Air Lift air suspension here in-house) and can certainly steer you in the right direction on what setup would be best for you based on your driving styles, driving habits and what springs and shock combo you want to go with. From non-adjustable KONI STR.T Shocks (which can be used on either OEM or performance shocks) to KONI FSD to Sport Shocks to Eibach, H&R and KONI Coilovers, we've got you covered. Feel free to email us through our site (www.mjmautohaus.com) with any questions you may have and we'll get you taken care of.
 
#31 ·
Go on then rob, please explain. Mechanical knowledge yes, suspension designing no. I bow to your expertise, enhance my knowledge. By the way the boinging has decreased somewhat but now noticed one of the rear shock bottom bushes has failed as well. Trying to source a pair now.
 
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