No offense, but this is how my rear suspension is setup. Solid billet aluminum subframe bushings, solid billet aluminum differential bushings, Red Poly UUC RTABs, Adjustable Lower Control arms, Red H&R race springs.
btw it seems not many have been in a car with a welded diff , theres no chatter like a clutch type diff Which you can indeed hear while driving , you only hear it when your doing slow tight turns
IF you can hear your welded diff while driving you should get it towed home , since the diff is probly about to explode.
I have never been in a car with a clutch-type LSD.
I have a welded, and I notice that my car makes some funny knocking/clunking noises when letting off the gas/coasting while making a tight corner. I think it is just the axles and drive shaft knocking against the small amount of play in the gears and splines due to the tire-chatter. Anyone else with a welded hear noises like this? I have found that the best way to corner with a welded is under slight throttle... sometimes left-foot braking if needed.
do u have alot of body roll just running springs? im on kw coilovers which i found are pretty pricey , there super nice and i love them but its an inconvenience for me to try and adjust dampering on them , kinda looking toward a true coilover setup with edfc but i cant seem to find any for a sedan ,
omg, i love this thread, everyone seems to be really friendly here...
btw
everybody know that tax money will come, i was thinking about to get lsd for my car, what you all guys think ? which one is the best bung ? (instead of swap with m3 subframe) and how much it cost ?
Went to the 1/4 mile track last night. When I first bought my car it was an auto that weighed 3340lbs and ran a 16.5 at 83mph. Last night it weighed 2770lbs and ran a 14.9 at 93mph. Thought I'd post this here so you guys can see how much not only a 5 speed but weight reduction can help your performance. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1020692
Thanks man. They are just universal brackets that I drilled new holes in to accomidate the e46 lopsided seat mounting. Just make sure you get some with decent welds. It's a life and death part. Just like making sure you buy decent hardware and harnesses. Not that I'd think you would cheap out but just reminding you.
Been away from the forums for some time. I keep getting alot of PMs regarding hydro ebrake setup. Please follow this guide here: http://my350z.com/forum/drift/524847-hydro-ebrake-writeup.html as it relates to our vehicles as well, for the most part.
I have lol just street stuff , should be pulling my diff tomorow to weld it , the event i sponsored got rained out , so it set my budget and timeline back , we have a drift event on the 21-22nd so ill be drifting that one
well no it still really is drifting , and just because you have an open diff or VSLD doesnt mean it wont get sideways lol mind you a locked diff is better but i know people that have one events in stock diffs , if you can steer and control your car , you can drift it
Don't get me wrong. I agree, since I've done quite a bit of sliding with an open diff. It's just that you have to make huge sacrifices with an open diff to keep the car sideways. It's drifting, but such a different technique. For example, with a welded. I just throw the car and power through the corner adjusting angle as I please. With an open, the only thing keeping the car sideways is pretty much the initial momentum.
...So to keep it sideways, you have to reduce the angle, gain more speed, then throw the car back out(a good example is the video I posted above). If you pay attention, notice how the car seems to gain and lose speed quickly. That's the result of me getting full lock angle and then straightening out slightly to gain speed for another full lock angle. It requires so much steering work it's ridiculous.
Welded/LS Diff = the ability to keep a constant curved drift with mostly throttle input and less steering input.
Open Differential = Continuous flicks/sawing of the steering wheel during a single corner to keep the car sliding sideways
I only use my hydro to save my ass, or to be lazy, or if I'm just not good enough to do it without it haha. I try and extend everything with throttle and then using big angle to slow me down. I drove this past weekend as well.
I only use my hydro to save my ass, or to be lazy, or if I'm just not good enough to do it without it haha. I try and extend everything with throttle and then using big angle to slow me down. I drove this past weekend as well.
Glad we're on the same page regarding the hydro David. New paint job is :drool: dude. I drove Greencove's Drift & Mud day this weekend as well. Your advice regarding using angle to scrub speed helped me so much during transitions this weekend. The speeds are much faster for me at Greencove when compared to OSW since the Greencove sweeper put me in 3rd gear. Should have video and pics to post in this thread soon.
nice , i like it , ill be in houston for a 2 day drift event this week , pretty stoked. no hydro as it did not come in yet but that will be ready for round 2
Have any pics of them installed? Hard to tell from the pics in the eBay ad. Do they adjust the roll center like the SLR adapters do? i.e. do they lower the mounting point of the LCA to the knuckle? Thanks!
Have any pics of them installed? Hard to tell from the pics in the eBay ad. Do they adjust the roll center like the SLR adapters do? i.e. do they lower the mounting point of the LCA to the knuckle? Thanks!
No to both questions. These do not change geometry of the front end in any way other than putting the tie rod pick-up closer to the center of the hub. The new tie rod pick-up location is at the same height that it was at it's old location. That's partially why these adapters sell for so cheap when compared to the SLR half kit.
Here is what they look like installed on the hub but without the tie rod mounted in the new hole. You can see the new tie rod pick-up hole about midway between the two nuts.
hmm interested i wonder how much i could get out of using those plus cut knuckles , they didnt post it but what is the angle your receiving? have you measured?
I haven't measured it, but it's obviously quite a bit more than stock. I know for a fact you won't be able to use these if your knuckles are not stock. These adapters use the original tie rod and control arm locations to mount to the car. Then your tie rod goes into a new third hole that is closer to the center of the hub. I had to cut down my inner tie rod just to get the tie rod short enough to bolt up into the new pickup location.
Both my hub and steering wheel are MOMO. I bought the hub directly from MOMO online, and the steering wheel is a MOMO mod 08 that I bought brand new in package from seller who never installed it on his car from ebay.
nice , when i get my knuckles ill pm you so we can post pics , i wana see the measurements lol ill measure stock to , fyi we have the same car so thanks for drifting
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