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Old 02-09-2015, 08:56 PM   #21
evanr614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben99 View Post
Well, I am fairly certain all e46's came with m52tu or m54, both with dual vanos (hence the tu). My car was made december 98 and I have dual vanos. I think you may be confusing the two engines I mentioned above with the one from the e36 which is single vanos.
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:09 PM   #22
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Ok... now enter vin in realoem.com, click on engine, then cylinder head vanos and read the first item.

Now click on this :https://translate.google.com/#de/en/doppel%20vanos
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:18 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ben99 View Post
Ok... now enter vin in realoem.com, click on engine, then cylinder head vanos and read the first item.

Now click on this :https://translate.google.com/#de/en/doppel%20vanos


Oh interesting, i'm sure could understand why I was mislead.

Thanks for pointing that out.........but no thanks for being a snippy douchebag
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Old 02-09-2015, 10:03 PM   #24
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While your vanos sounds like an issue.. i would also do your spark plugs if you have not recently. I just did mine and it fixed my rough cold idle
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:30 AM   #25
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Don't listen to any of the idiots thus far.

Vanos system in your car is indeed the problem. I've had the same exact problem for months and after all of my research, I had to replace the vanos system O-rings and bearings. This job is not so easy to do if you don't have any sort of experience. My suggestion is to buy a whole new vanos system. Reason why I say this is because I've replaced just the o-rings and bearing of the vanos and the problem went away. However, couple of months later, it came back again because the hosing of the vanos worn out over time. My car has 216,000 miles on it still running strong, with the new vanos system. I got it for $400 on turnermotorsport.com This will save you time and money because the o-ring and bearings were $100. I've learned my lesson the hard way. I'm letting you know to get the new vanos system. The new vanos system installation is much much easier. heres a link to get to the vanos system. Even though its an asian guy who speaks German, he really shows you how to take it apart._nr_
It make ZERO sense to advise someone to spend $400 on a part and advocate them opening up their engine and removing major components when the OP hasn't stated whether or not he's changed his spark plugs, fuel pump and coil packs. All the aforementioned are less labor intensive than a VANOS rebuild, less expensive, are known to cause idle/drivability issues, and will have to be done eventually anyway.

Like jfoj said, it seems like the go to response when someone is having idle/driveability concerns that their VANOS is the culprit. I too initially suspected my VANOS, but after lots of research I decided to start with the cheapest and easiest items to replace (i.e. plugs, boots, fuel pump, etc). If you haven't addressed all your basic maintenance needs/issues, it makes no sense to blame a major engine component.

That said, VANOS seals could very well be the culprit. However, it would definitely suck to go through the trouble of rebuilding or replacing the VANOS unit only to find out that the issue persists and is the result of something simple like spark plugs.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:30 AM   #26
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It make ZERO sense to advise someone to spend $400 on a part and advocate them opening up their engine and removing major components when the OP hasn't stated whether or not he's changed his spark plugs, fuel pump and coil packs. All the aforementioned are less labor intensive than a VANOS rebuild, less expensive, are known to cause idle/drivability issues, and will have to be done eventually anyway.

Like jfoj said, it seems like the go to response when someone is having idle/driveability concerns that their VANOS is the culprit. I too initially suspected my VANOS, but after lots of research I decided to start with the cheapest and easiest items to replace (i.e. plugs, boots, fuel pump, etc). If you haven't addressed all your basic maintenance needs/issues, it makes no sense to blame a major engine component.

That said, VANOS seals could very well be the culprit. However, it would definitely suck to go through the trouble of rebuilding or replacing the VANOS unit only to find out that the issue persists and is the result of something simple like spark plugs.
The entire vanos unit is expensive, however, the vanos seals repair/upgrade is fairly affordable and can easily be DIYed. Also, it is a very common thing on our cars due to the material that was used to make the vanos piston seals. It is something that should be done at some point in time anyways, if you care anything about your car performing at its top level
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:31 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by brea View Post
It make ZERO sense to advise someone to spend $400 on a part and advocate them opening up their engine and removing major components when the OP hasn't stated whether or not he's changed his spark plugs, fuel pump and coil packs. All the aforementioned are less labor intensive than a VANOS rebuild, less expensive, are known to cause idle/drivability issues, and will have to be done eventually anyway.

Like jfoj said, it seems like the go to response when someone is having idle/driveability concerns that their VANOS is the culprit. I too initially suspected my VANOS, but after lots of research I decided to start with the cheapest and easiest items to replace (i.e. plugs, boots, fuel pump, etc). If you haven't addressed all your basic maintenance needs/issues, it makes no sense to blame a major engine component.

That said, VANOS seals could very well be the culprit. However, it would definitely suck to go through the trouble of rebuilding or replacing the VANOS unit only to find out that the issue persists and is the result of something simple like spark plugs.
Brea, I completely agree with you as you are not the only person to tell me this. I believe my spark plugs were replaced around anywhere from 5-10k miles ago when the valve cover gasket was done. As far as the fuel pump goes, I could almost garuntee it is original. The fuel pump is something I would look into doing but it this something that I should do as preventative "maintenance" or is there a chance that is a waste of time/money as well? Also, could you briefly elaborate on what the coil packs are?

All of that being said, one of my indy shops have quoted me at 3.7 hours to replace my vanos seals and valve cover gasket/spark plugs, so i'm not fully opposed to getting that out of the way. Does this seem like a fair amount of labor time? He quoted 2.2 hours for the seals and 1.5 for the valve cover gasket...my only issue with the quote is that im fully aware it takes virtually no extra time to replace the valve cover gasket while you are doing the vanos seals.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:35 AM   #28
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Brea, I completely agree with you as you are not the only person to tell me this. I believe my spark plugs were replaced around anywhere from 5-10k miles ago when the valve cover gasket was done. As far as the fuel pump goes, I could almost garuntee it is original. The fuel pump is something I would look into doing but it this something that I should do as preventative "maintenance" or is there a chance that is a waste of time/money as well? Also, could you briefly elaborate on what the coil packs are?

All of that being said, one of my indy shops have quoted me at 3.7 hours to replace my vanos seals and valve cover gasket/spark plugs, so i'm not fully opposed to getting that out of the way. Does this seem like a fair amount of labor time? He quoted 2.2 hours for the seals and 1.5 for the valve cover gasket...my only issue with the quote is that im fully aware it takes virtually no extra time to replace the valve cover gasket while you are doing the vanos seals.
Here is a pretty in depth thread about the fuel pump.... check it out

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:36 AM   #29
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Here is a pretty in depth thread about the fuel pump.... check it out

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:11 AM   #30
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evanr614: Fuel pump is definitely PM. They fail. I've never had it happen to me, but it happened to a friend. He turned the car off to get gas one day and the car would not fire back up afterward. His car had 110k. That, along with the countless threads on here was enough to convince me that I should replace mine. Siemens fuel pump can be had for about $165 shipped, check out FCPEuro.com. I would recommend you pull the spark plugs and make sure they are the proper NGK/BMW branded plugs. I said coil packs and meant ignition coils. My bad. They're the black square looking things that are bolted down on top of the spark plugs. Remove them one by one and check for oil on the tip of the boot where it connects to the spark plug, look for cracks or damage on the boot. You can question your indy on the hours, but 3.7 seems reasonable to me for plugs, VCG and VANOS.

Blisssss: I am not telling him to not change his VANOS seals eventually, I was simply saying that it is cheaper and less labor intensive to start by replacing his fuel pump (if it's original), spark plugs (which he has since said were replaced recently), and inspecting his coils before looks into a VANOS rebuild. All are much easier DIY's than a VANOS rebuild. And personally, while I care about my car performing at it's peak, I care more about not being left stranded on the side of the road. Worn out VANOS seals won't leave you stranded. A failed fuel pump will. Again, this is just MY advice to OP. Everyone has different priorities and opinions.
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:47 AM   #31
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For the OP, if the CCV is original on the car, which is may be, it should be replaced LONG before you worry about something like the VANOS seals.

Even if you "think" things like spark plugs have been changed, until you pull and inspect them you have no idea what is going on.

I have seen SO many of these cars with their original fuel filters at 15+ years it is enough to make me crazy.

Fuel pump, not if it will fail, but when. As someone so clearly pointed out the fuel pump failure WILL leave you stranded, but soft failed fuel pumps can cause cold start and other performance issues before they fail. Although I like FCPEuro, they offer Lifetime Warranty on all parts they sell regardless of what the manufacturer offers, the fuel pump can be purchases last I looked for $125 shipped from www.bmaparts.com using SPECE30 discount code. Not sure you would really benefit from a FCPEuro Warranty on the fuel pump as it should last 8-10 years+. But FCPEuro may price match?

I think the point I and others are mentioning is something like VANOS seals should be about dead last on the list if items to address on a 15 year old car. There are a lot of VANOS fanboy cases where often times the main problem that was resolved was due to either a leaking/cracked valve cover or other cracked or broken vacuum hoses that were also replaced during a VANOS seal repair. Also since the VANOS seals are a fairly major repair often DIY folks usually wholesale replace many other PM items at the same time, so it is anyones best guess as to what specific part/repair actually corrected the problem they expected new VANOS seals to resolve.

I am not saying do not consider replacing the VANOS seals, I am saying understand their priority in the big picture, not sure they are the cure all that everyone claims they really are. In some cases they can make a difference, just not so sure they are the main cold start/idle problem with most of these cars. I think it has been well documented that there are many cold start/idle problems solved without replacing the VANOS seals.

Just saying.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

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Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299

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Old 02-10-2015, 12:20 PM   #32
evanr614
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For the OP, if the CCV is original on the car, which is may be, it should be replaced LONG before you worry about something like the VANOS seals.

Even if you "think" things like spark plugs have been changed, until you pull and inspect them you have no idea what is going on.

I have seen SO many of these cars with their original fuel filters at 15+ years it is enough to make me crazy.

Fuel pump, not if it will fail, but when. As someone so clearly pointed out the fuel pump failure WILL leave you stranded, but soft failed fuel pumps can cause cold start and other performance issues before they fail. Although I like FCPEuro, they offer Lifetime Warranty on all parts they sell regardless of what the manufacturer offers, the fuel pump can be purchases last I looked for $125 shipped from www.bmaparts.com using SPECE30 discount code. Not sure you would really benefit from a FCPEuro Warranty on the fuel pump as it should last 8-10 years+. But FCPEuro may price match?

I think the point I and others are mentioning is something like VANOS seals should be about dead last on the list if items to address on a 15 year old car. There are a lot of VANOS fanboy cases where often times the main problem that was resolved was due to either a leaking/cracked valve cover or other cracked or broken vacuum hoses that were also replaced during a VANOS seal repair. Also since the VANOS seals are a fairly major repair often DIY folks usually wholesale replace many other PM items at the same time, so it is anyones best guess as to what specific part/repair actually corrected the problem they expected new VANOS seals to resolve.

I am not saying do not consider replacing the VANOS seals, I am saying understand their priority in the big picture, not sure they are the cure all that everyone claims they really are. In some cases they can make a difference, just not so sure they are the main cold start/idle problem with most of these cars. I think it has been well documented that there are many cold start/idle problems solved without replacing the VANOS seals.

Just saying.
Picked up the fuel pump with the discount code, free shipping and no tax...(opposed to ECS Tuning). Saved close to 50 bucks, thanks man! I actually did my fuel filter a week ago or so. As far as the CCV goes, I could use some guidance on where to find this on real OEM so that I can find the right p/n. Is this is a pretty easy DIY?
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Old 02-10-2015, 12:28 PM   #33
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#1? Pressure regulator valve?

That's all im finding.

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Old 02-10-2015, 01:41 PM   #34
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Since you are new here, you should be aware of these parts pricing tools:

http://www.bmwpnpc.com/

http://www.furiousmethod.com/

www.realoem.com

I think I picked up my CCV kit from ECS Tuning, it was a really complete kit with throttle body and ICV gasket, dipstick O-rings all CCV hoses and valve. The valve was OEM. Might even had the lower intake boot as well???

Simple one part number order as I recall.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299

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Old 02-10-2015, 04:36 PM   #35
evanr614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Since you are new here, you should be aware of these parts pricing tools:

http://www.bmwpnpc.com/

http://www.furiousmethod.com/

www.realoem.com

I think I picked up my CCV kit from ECS Tuning, it was a really complete kit with throttle body and ICV gasket, dipstick O-rings all CCV hoses and valve. The valve was OEM. Might even had the lower intake boot as well???

Simple one part number order as I recall.
Thanks, I was aware of these websites. I have the part numbers gather I am struggling to find a good DIY currently.
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Old 02-10-2015, 04:45 PM   #36
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Thanks, I was aware of these websites. I have the part numbers gather I am struggling to find a good DIY currently.
heres a whole list of DIYs

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=799196

and more specific to a CCV diy:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=643639
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Old 02-11-2015, 02:10 PM   #37
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After much research I've decided to just have my shop take care of new spark plugs, and the vanos seals, vanos gasket and vcg, as well as inspect my ignition coils. Doing this so that I'm only looking at about a day of downtime. I will also be installing a new fuel pump sometime this week. (Thanks jfoj) I will also be changing out oil and transmission fluid within a week or so.

After that's all settled i'm going to tackle the CCV job with a new cold climate oil seperator, all new tubes, and new lower intake boot. I will also most likely swap out my DISA valve while i'm at it.

I need advice on if I should invest in a new "updated designed" dipstick or if I should clean my exsisting one.

One last note, I have noticed the shifting sypmtoms typically do not appear until the car has warmed up. Does this point in the direction of anything in particular to any of you?

I'll keep this updated to see what might actually fix my cold idle issues and hiccupy shifting/downshifting.
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