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Old 05-07-2016, 02:46 PM   #1
muzzasee
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 7
My Ride: BMW 325Ci
Revs dipping/stalling, 325Ci

Hi folks, would just like to introduce myself and say what a great and helpful site this is for info and advice. I have went from knowing absolute ZERO about car problems, to diagnosing a coolant leak and replacing my radiator and cooling sensors in my recently purchased 325Ci, easily and without problems all just from researching on the forum and watching D.I.Y. videos, and for that I thank the members.

Really enjoyed fixing it myself and learning about the engine, and now itching to solve the next issue, which is a bit more complicated for me to diagnose. When i press on accelerator the revs are dipping slightly before climbing, sometimes dipping so much it stalls.

I've uploaded a video of the symptoms -

Car has done 104k, these symptoms are intermittent and usually only occur when the car is warm. i.e. Nip to supermarket, start car from cold, 10 - 15 min spin, no symptoms. Back in house for 10 mins, realize i have forgot the milk, go to nip back to super market and when i start the car i get these symptoms. Sometimes the car will stall its so bad (annoying at traffic lights), but after doing a few miles in the car the symptoms disappear, although I have had power loss in 2nd gear when it hits about 4-5k revs happen to me a few times.

Any help or advice is much appreciated, but go easy on me as my only experience is changing a radiator in my BMW today. (Thanks to you guys).

p.s. this is my first time joining a forum so not sure if i'm even posting this properly
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:29 AM   #2
markusmarkus
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Location: USA
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The first step in diagnosing a problem in a modern car is to have the engine management computer (aka ECU and DME) scanned for codes. The code reader plugs into the connector that's on the underside of the dashboard. The Service Engine Soon (SES) (aka Check Engine Light (CEL)) light doesn't have to be illuminated for codes to be present. The SES/CEL light is illuminated only when there's an emissions related problem.
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Old 05-08-2016, 08:16 AM   #3
muzzasee
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Thanks for the info. Any idea how much it would cost the get the codes? I don't have a reader. I see there are guides online to get the codes without a reader and I'm a give it a try kinda guy lol so might have a go at it if taking the car to a garage is costly. (I'm tighter than 2 coats of paint ha)
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:27 PM   #4
muzzasee
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Location: Scotland
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/151806182574 Is this a good enough reader to get the codes?

Or this one? (Way cheaper) https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/360501632875

Last edited by muzzasee; 05-08-2016 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 05-08-2016, 10:46 PM   #5
YoitsTmac
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Codes can be read for free at auto zone right? Someone correct me, I just use PA Soft (BMW software I highly recommend you getting). If you get no codes, and the idle drops are in the cold, you could be looking at VANOS seals.
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Old 05-08-2016, 11:29 PM   #6
BustinMyWallet
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Autozone, Advance, O'Reillys and other chain auto parts stores will scan your car for codes for free (at least the ones by me do, not sure about other countries). Whatever codes you get out of your car is a good place to start. Code readers are fairly cheap too, you can get a basic one for around $25, and it should be able to scan engine codes. More expensive code readers will actually tell you what the code is on the screen - for example, it might say P0306 - Engine cylinder misfire cylinder #6. A basic scan tool will only give you the code, you'll have to google what the code means.

RPM's dipping at idle or surging at idle could be caused by a dirty or faulty idle control valve - checking it is free, so that'd be a good place to start. Someone on bimmerfest made a pretty good write-up with pictures on how to clean the ICV, you can find it here: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=248979

There's other things that could cause those symptoms too, but I've had idle issues in the past with other cars and usually it's been related to the idle air control valve. Good luck, and get those engine codes scanned.
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Old 05-09-2016, 06:48 AM   #7
markusmarkus
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Revs dipping/stalling, 325Ci

Quote:
Originally Posted by BustinMyWallet View Post
Autozone, Advance, O'Reillys and other chain auto parts stores will scan your car for codes for free (at least the ones by me do, not sure about other countries). Whatever codes you get out of your car is a good place to start. Code readers are fairly cheap too, you can get a basic one for around $25, and it should be able to scan engine codes. More expensive code readers will actually tell you what the code is on the screen - for example, it might say P0306 - Engine cylinder misfire cylinder #6. A basic scan tool will only give you the code, you'll have to google what the code means.

RPM's dipping at idle or surging at idle could be caused by a dirty or faulty idle control valve - checking it is free, so that'd be a good place to start. Someone on bimmerfest made a pretty good write-up with pictures on how to clean the ICV, you can find it here: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=248979

There's other things that could cause those symptoms too, but I've had idle issues in the past with other cars and usually it's been related to the idle air control valve. Good luck, and get those engine codes scanned.

OP is in Scotland!!

The dipping idle is an indication of a vacuum leak. But, as noted, have the engine computer scanned for codes. That ALWAYZ the first step. Also, please remember that codes are SYMPTOMS and not solutions.

OP, if you have a smartphone you can buy the app called OBDFusion. It's available in iTunes and the android App Store. You'll need an interface device that plugs into the obd2 port under the dash.
- iOS: wifi
- android: Bluetooth
OBDFusion allows you to check and clear codes, log various data streams (i.e., O2 sensors, air flow rate) and export the logged data. Very useful app!

Last edited by markusmarkus; 05-09-2016 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 05-09-2016, 07:45 AM   #8
BustinMyWallet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markusmarkus View Post
OP is in Scotland!!

[...] Also, please remember that codes are SYMPTOMS and not solutions.
I realize this, that's why I said
Quote:
(at least the ones by me do, not sure about other countries). Whatever codes you get out of your car is a good place to start.
The code could be a p0505 (idle air control system malfunctioning), which could indicate a faulty IAC and be a starting point for diagnostics.

It could also be a p0442 (small evap leak) or a p0455 (large evap leak), or it could be any number of other DTC's as well, which would again be a starting point to diagnose the issue. I never said that scanning codes was a solution, just that it's a place to start diagnostics.
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:37 PM   #9
muzzasee
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Scotland
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Thanks for all the info guys. Think I will buy a reader as it's useful to have and also get the OBDfusion app.
Got no time at the moment to deal with it as I'm working 12-14hr shifts 7 days a week, which sucks because the hot weather is here which brings the engine up to temperature within minutes which brings on these symptoms. So correct me if I am wrong, but if the car isn't doing this when cold I can rule out a vanos problem?
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Old 05-12-2016, 06:25 PM   #10
Anthr76
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My Ride: Alpine White 325Ci
Revs dipping/stalling, 325Ci

Looks like a faulty intake cam shaft sensor. Had it happen to me

Last edited by Anthr76; 05-12-2016 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:41 AM   #11
muzzasee
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Scotland
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Hey folks, took the car to garage to get codes and got:

41 - camshaft signal inlet
BF - insufficient heat output, oxygen sensor behind catalysator bank 2

Mechanic suspects it to be vanos problem and said it could just be dirty oil and persuaded me to let him do an engine flush/oil change. Ran the car for a week and the symptoms were showing less often, but still there.

Took it back to get it hooked up to computer again and the same 2 codes showed up so the mechanic is now saying he is "90% sure" it's a vanos problem.
Cost me 150 all in, for getting the codes and flush/oil change.
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Old 05-24-2016, 02:09 PM   #12
Anthr76
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Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
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My Ride: Alpine White 325Ci
Quote:
Originally Posted by muzzasee View Post
Hey folks, took the car to garage to get codes and got:

41 - camshaft signal inlet
BF - insufficient heat output, oxygen sensor behind catalysator bank 2

Mechanic suspects it to be vanos problem and said it could just be dirty oil and persuaded me to let him do an engine flush/oil change. Ran the car for a week and the symptoms were showing less often, but still there.

Took it back to get it hooked up to computer again and the same 2 codes showed up so the mechanic is now saying he is "90% sure" it's a vanos problem.
Cost me 150 all in, for getting the codes and flush/oil change.
Still sounds like intake can shaft sensor. Had same symptoms. It's about 100$ give it a shot
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