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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 07-30-2016, 09:10 AM   #21
lingon300k
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyneff View Post
Well now the entire system is replaced and it's no longer overheating but now I have a leak coming from underneath the brand new expansion tank I put in a month ago. I Can't win
Your expansion tank wasn't pressed down properly.

Read this: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...42&postcount=5
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Old 07-30-2016, 07:27 PM   #22
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The ET isn't sitting down properly - I realize it's frustrating - perhaps use some lube on the o-rings on the bottom of the ET to get them to slide down and lock
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Old 08-04-2016, 03:44 AM   #23
codyneff
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Sorry it took so long for an update guys but I've been caught up at work and low on funds. Now I've done an entire overhaul with damn near everything oem parts. (Radiator, water pump, expansion tank, cap) however the thermostat I got from oreillys just for times sake and it is STILL overheating after multiple bleeds with ignition on heat on 91 fan speed on low and front raised. At this point I was at my wits end so I decided to have it towed to a European car mechanic. When he called me at about 4 he said he had pressure tested the system and said there was no leaks and that the leak I was seeing was from the system over pressurizing and coming out of the et cap. Has anyone ever heard of this before?
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:06 AM   #24
BaliDawg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyneff View Post
Sorry it took so long for an update guys but I've been caught up at work and low on funds. Now I've done an entire overhaul with damn near everything oem parts. (Radiator, water pump, expansion tank, cap) however the thermostat I got from oreillys just for times sake and it is STILL overheating after multiple bleeds with ignition on heat on 91 fan speed on low and front raised. At this point I was at my wits end so I decided to have it towed to a European car mechanic. When he called me at about 4 he said he had pressure tested the system and said there was no leaks and that the leak I was seeing was from the system over pressurizing and coming out of the et cap. Has anyone ever heard of this before?
Have a compression test done on each cylinder. It could be a blown head gasket, which often pushes cylinder gases into the cooling system causing overpressure and usually overheating.
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:30 AM   #25
gtr_gtti
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Originally Posted by BaliDawg View Post
Have a compression test done on each cylinder. It could be a blown head gasket, which often pushes cylinder gases into the cooling system causing overpressure and usually overheating.
i think i have this problem
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:42 AM   #26
codyneff
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Just got a call from my mechanic and he said I have a warped/cracked head. Guess it's time to start looking at my options. It was nice for the month it lasted.
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:46 PM   #27
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That's too bad. I feel for you. Happened to a friend of one of my kids. Po had tried to hide the leaking head using head gasket stop leak. Eventually the pressure buildup came back and hoses would blow off. One of the things that is a good sign of a suspected snake oil head gasket fix is a lack of heat at idle on a warm engine. The sealer clogs the heater core and little heat enters the cabin unless the rpms get very high. I always test heaters at idle when checking used cars.

Karma will get the guy.
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Old 01-14-2017, 02:41 AM   #28
codyneff
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Just some extra information for you guys and to hopefully get some insight on what this may possibly be I'm going to give an update on this. After a few months of not being able to work on the car I have been messing with some possibilities the past few days. Turns out the heater core is clogged for some reason so as I worked on getting that unclogged I drove it for a good 40 minutes or so without overheating. And unfortunately it started again. I have figured out the thermostat I replaced was faulty. I'm thinking I may not have gotten all of it out of the heater core so I need some advice for after I replace the heater core. If that does not fix the overheating issue what are some more possibilities of what could be causing my overheating here. The car can idle all day long and will not overheat but as soon as you start driving that's when the overheating starts. There is no loss of power. Is there any sensors or valves that could cause this? I really appreciate the help
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Old 01-14-2017, 06:20 AM   #29
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Cody - The previous owner likely used Stop Leak - that has jammed the heater core but that isn't causing the overheat. See my earlier post.

Unfortunately there is no fixing this issue by replacing peripheral parts. The head gasket is leaking. Whoever sold the car to you tried to hide the head gasket leak by using a snake oil solution which inadvertently also clogs the heater core. Don't throw any more money at it unless it is for a head gasket or engine replacement.

The use of Stop Leak by the previous owner destroyed your heater core and caused other coolant component issues. The small tubes in a heater core have spiral bars inside to slow down the flow of coolant and transfer more heat to the metal. Stop Leak Sealer clogs this. One of the reasons I always test the heater of a used car at idle is to see if the heater blows hot air. If it doesn't often the core is blocked from a sealer - usually to mask symptoms of a blown or leaking head gasket.

What happens is gases from the cylinders are leaking into the coolant via the blown head gasket and causing the pressure to build in your cooling system - this pressure will blow plastic parts up.
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Last edited by BMW-North; 01-14-2017 at 06:26 AM.
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Old 01-14-2017, 09:25 AM   #30
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Put a good used low mileage 330 engine in there. You can find a 75k mile 330 motor for around $1,500 on car-part.com.
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