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General E46 Forum
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:55 AM   #21
dillymanilli
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Re: Enginge temp OK, no heat at all

It sounds like the e46 cooling system is very sensitive. One small leak will mess up alot of ****. Im having an issue of not having any heat inside the car and im pretty sure theres an airlock in the system. Is bleeding the system pointless if theres air finding its way back in? Thats what I think is happening to me but cant pinpoint the exact location. Also when you see coolant coming out of bleeder screw you tighten it then you need to take some coolant out of the expansion tank
To bring it up to level?
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:35 AM   #22
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Just an update. I had no heat coming through the vents. The only time i would get any kind of heat is if i bled the system. I would drive around with good heat then it would start blowing cold and continue blowing cold.

Today i replaced everything in the cooling system. No leaks. I even tested the heater control valve. Looks good there. I ran compressed air through the heater core. Got flow through heater core. I bled the system. After all that monkeying around i stilll had the same issues. Blew hot air for the first little bit the nothing but cold air. I dont know what else it could be. Im seriously lost here.

I think theres an electrical problem here or theres still air in the effing system. If the problem is electrical what should i look for. People say to blow the grill next to hvac control unit but what woould that do? Any input would be great. The weather here drops to -30 celcius. I cant have this continue.
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Old 01-15-2014, 01:01 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Dronshaw View Post
It's been getting pretty cold and usually I don't have to drive my car much, as I can walk to school. Unfortunately, I got in my 2002 325i last night and while driving I noticed the engine temperature needle was dead center, meanwhile the air blowing from my car was extremely cold. I had the heat set to 91F and it was still blowing, what felt like, AC air.

I have read thermostat failure is usually an issue when the engine temp isn't getting to where it should be, but this didn't seem like the case and I'd like to self-repair this when I get back to my hometown and have access to tools + a garage
Perhaps the heater core.

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Old 01-15-2014, 01:02 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by dillymanilli View Post
Just an update. I had no heat coming through the vents. The only time i would get any kind of heat is if i bled the system. I would drive around with good heat then it would start blowing cold and continue blowing cold.

Today i replaced everything in the cooling system. No leaks. I even tested the heater control valve. Looks good there. I ran compressed air through the heater core. Got flow through heater core. I bled the system. After all that monkeying around i stilll had the same issues. Blew hot air for the first little bit the nothing but cold air. I dont know what else it could be. Im seriously lost here.

I think theres an electrical problem here or theres still air in the effing system. If the problem is electrical what should i look for. People say to blow the grill next to hvac control unit but what woould that do? Any input would be great. The weather here drops to -30 celcius. I cant have this continue.
Only place I know that can suck air is at the temperature sensor on lower radiator hose. Have you changed the o-ring there?

To be sure, you may rent a cooling system pressure tester and check for pressure drop, leaking coolant, and air bubble by spraying soapy liquid around the suspected areas. It may not have a right adapter for E46 though.
Asking dealer or shop to do just pressure test is an option.

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Old 01-15-2014, 01:04 AM   #25
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Here, you prove it again that you don't have any diagnostic knowledge or skill.
Let me say it again: you are a mere part changer.

If there is air pocket in the system, first symptom will be overheat.
If coolant is low, there will be warning provided his/her coolant level sensor is working.

No amount of new cooling parts will fix the no heat problem in the cabin if the heater valve is bad.

Which is the right order for diagnostic and repair?
1. Spend about $1,000 on cooling system parts and a couple of days of work, but find the heater valve is defective.
2. Spend a couple of hours inspecting the heater valve, but it is working ok. So, go to the next possible cause.
This. Is true. Minus the insult, I'm staying out of that one.

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Old 01-15-2014, 01:14 AM   #26
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Have you replaced the thermostat? I just remember my friend had this issue as the heater wasn't as potent and was barely warm, but after replacing it all was good. Replace t-stat and do a proper bleed, please.

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Old 01-15-2014, 01:24 AM   #27
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Yes I did put in a new t stat. The funny thing is, is that the car does produce heat but only for a few blocks. I think the system has air in it but is not coming out with the cold engine bleed procedure. I'll give it another go tomorrow. Will post back.

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Old 01-15-2014, 01:25 AM   #28
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And yes I've replaced the o ring at the lower rad sensor.

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Old 01-15-2014, 01:27 AM   #29
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Have you tried to vacuum any possible dust/crap on the vents on either side of the climate control? Apparently, this has been an issue and it usually solves the issue.

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Old 01-15-2014, 01:32 AM   #30
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...21&hg=64&fg=20

I believe it's the two small vents that need to be vacuumed.

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Old 01-15-2014, 01:33 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by dillymanilli View Post
And yes I've replaced the o ring at the lower rad sensor.

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What's coolant temperature reading through OBC?
Does outside temperature reading correct? shanneba said something about that in previous post.
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Old 01-15-2014, 01:41 AM   #32
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Yes ive heard of vacuuming out those little vents but i havent tried it yet. Ill try that tomorrow. What exactly do those vents do?

The temp reading for t stat on OBC is 93 - 96 celcius if i remember correctly. Outside temperature reading is correct aswell.
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Old 01-15-2014, 01:47 PM   #33
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I bled the system real good this morning. Brought the car up to temperature and still no heat. I looked under the hood while the car was running and it might be just me but the pulley attached to the water pump looks a little wobbly.

The old water pump, i forgot to add had a definite wobble to it. Would loose tension in the drive belts cause the water pump not to pump efficiently allowing it to go through heater core?

Also both hoses going to heater control valve are hot but the hose that exits the heater core to the expansion tank is relatively cool. What does the mean?
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Old 01-15-2014, 03:46 PM   #34
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Wow feel like im talking to myself here lol. So i think im onto something with this no heat issue. Bled system again and had the car idle till it hit 96 celcius. Good operating temperature. Started having great heat. The heat only lasted 10 min or so as usual and then gradually got cooler. Hoses to and from water valve were hot. Hose from heater core to expansion tank was hot too but only when i was getting heat through the vents. As the vents started blowing cooler air, that hose from the heater core to the expansion tank started to lose heat and go cooler too. As i was moving that hose around i noticed dripping from the fitting from hose to exp tank. Small leak? Air getting into that hose? Im gonna replace it and see if that helps? What are your thoughts?
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Old 01-15-2014, 04:26 PM   #35
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Did you ever vacuum the vent?

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Old 01-15-2014, 04:43 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by dillymanilli View Post
Wow feel like im talking to myself here lol. So i think im onto something with this no heat issue. Bled system again and had the car idle till it hit 96 celcius. Good operating temperature. Started having great heat. The heat only lasted 10 min or so as usual and then gradually got cooler. Hoses to and from water valve were hot. Hose from heater core to expansion tank was hot too but only when i was getting heat through the vents. As the vents started blowing cooler air, that hose from the heater core to the expansion tank started to lose heat and go cooler too. As i was moving that hose around i noticed dripping from the fitting from hose to exp tank. Small leak? Air getting into that hose? Im gonna replace it and see if that helps? What are your thoughts?
You maybe onto something there.

Don't feel bad!
You are actually doing good by experimenting and documenting your work, so everybody can learn and help each other.
Probably 95% of Qs in this forum are not followed up.

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Old 01-15-2014, 04:48 PM   #37
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Solved the issue by replacing the thermostat recently. I'd have replied earlier but I'm tracking down this awesome vacuum issue that started once I replaced my VCG. good luck!
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Old 01-15-2014, 05:08 PM   #38
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Vacuumed out the little vents
Made no difference. I put in a new thermostat couple weeks ago. The fact that I have heat sometimes leads me to believe it's not the t stat.


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Old 01-16-2014, 04:42 PM   #39
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Good news everyone. I spent all day inspecting the hoses for leaks and made sure everything was put together the way they should be. This morning i checked the coolant level and it was in between min and max. I started up the car and let it reach operating temperature. Around 96 degree Celsius. I had the car running without the air filter box so i can look hard into the engine bay looking for signs of leaks and help massage and squeeze the hoses. When the car was around 80 degrees celsius (i was watching on the OBC) i decided to crack open bleed screw to see if i was getting any air bubbles. A few air bubbles did come out and as soon as it was a constant stream of coolant i screwed the bleed screw down. I did that procedure every 5 - 10 min and each time more bubbles came out then turned to a stream. By the time i did it the fourth time no bubbles came out, just a nice stream. The heat was on full blast with blower running mid range so i can feel the heat. Also i paid close attention to squeezing the hoses that run to the heater core while bleeding. The car was producing fantastic heat. From all vents. I turned the car off with a huge grin on my face. Im gonna leave the bimmer sit till tomorrow morning, top off coolant and hopefully no more issues. Fingers crossed.
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:53 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by dillymanilli View Post
Good news everyone. I spent all day inspecting the hoses for leaks and made sure everything was put together the way they should be. This morning i checked the coolant level and it was in between min and max. I started up the car and let it reach operating temperature. Around 96 degree Celsius. I had the car running without the air filter box so i can look hard into the engine bay looking for signs of leaks and help massage and squeeze the hoses. When the car was around 80 degrees celsius (i was watching on the OBC) i decided to crack open bleed screw to see if i was getting any air bubbles. A few air bubbles did come out and as soon as it was a constant stream of coolant i screwed the bleed screw down. I did that procedure every 5 - 10 min and each time more bubbles came out then turned to a stream. By the time i did it the fourth time no bubbles came out, just a nice stream. The heat was on full blast with blower running mid range so i can feel the heat. Also i paid close attention to squeezing the hoses that run to the heater core while bleeding. The car was producing fantastic heat. From all vents. I turned the car off with a huge grin on my face. Im gonna leave the bimmer sit till tomorrow morning, top off coolant and hopefully no more issues. Fingers crossed.
This is my favorite tool (this one is $117 in Amazon, though I have more expensive one, and it is not used very often) for this kind of reason. It sucks to a certain vacuum level and check for leak before refilling with coolant. No need to monkey around for multiple bleeding or risking overheat. Usually I need to top it off with 1/4 Quart next day after some driving to fully circulate coolant.

http://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-A...t+fill+machine

This got very high reviews.


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