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Old 08-15-2014, 03:09 AM   #1
kubomon17
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Lexington, KY
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My Ride: 2001 BMW 323i
Exclamation Misfire and rough idle, desperately need help!

Hey guys I'm new to the forums here and in need of help with my 2001 325i. For a few months now the car has had a rough idle that gets worse and develops into a misfire if I let the car sit and idle for a bit. It is independent of ambient temperature and vehicle (coolant, oil etc) temperature. When the misfire / rough idle occur, the car shakes, sounds awful and sometimes sputters and dies. If I'm driving and don't let the revs drop below 1k everything's fine and the car runs well. But if it idles for even a minute it always develops a misfire which makes the car run horribly, think shaking and total loss of power. If I turn the car off and then immediately start it back up its fine again, as long as the revs get to zero if even for a second. At this point I have replaced the coils, spark plugs and o2 sensors. Nothing has seemed to have helped. I checked the adjuster unit and it is also not the issue. I am beyond annoyed and fairly dejected at this point. I'm going to get my codes read again tomorrow but last time they were too lean bank 1 & 2, random misfire and bad o2 sensors (but I just replaced those tonight so that should no longer apply). If you guys have any suggestions I would really appreciate it, I'm at my wits end and feel as if I've run out of reasonably inexpensive things to try to fix this. Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-15-2014, 03:45 AM   #2
jfoj
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Posts: 21,919
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First things first, you must have a smart phone? You need to purchase YOUR OWN OBDII scan tool. For $35 or less you can get an OBDII smart phone App and interface and then you can have the tools you need to sort out the issues with your car.

Tell us what smart phone platform you have and we can tell you what App and interface you need.

Second, you need to read the first 2 links below in my signature.

Unfortunately your O2 sensors were not the problem. Most codes that mention sensors, do not mean the sensor is bad. The problem is not likely ignition coils or spark plugs either.

Need to see Freeze Frame data so 20 questions do not need to be asked. Freeze Frame data will only be available when the SES/CEL/MIL is lit. Once codes are cleared, so is the Freeze Frame data.

What you are describing is most likely a vacuum leak that causes the engine to run Lean, then to misfire, then the misfire with fuel cut off occurs. This is why shutting the engine off and restarting it helps. This is normal and how the car is designed to protect itself.

Most common problems that you have probably missed are all outlined in the first link in my signature. Short version, Intake Boots, CCC Hoses (lower CCV oil return line is the most common problem), Cracked Valve Cover, Leaking Power Brake Booster. There may be a possibility that the O2 sensor wiring is the problem or a contributor as well.

What brand O2 senors did you purchase? Were they direct plug in or did you need to splice wiring?

Read the links in my signature.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:18 AM   #3
BartenderPlease
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Vacuum leak or leaks. You should perform a smoke test and track down the smoke when it appears. Youtube "cigar smoke test". This will tell you where the air is getting into the engine and you can replace any failed or broken part.
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:21 AM   #4
kubomon17
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I will read through everything on my break at work today. Surprise surprise the dealer told me the wrong info. Idiots. And I'm on iOS...
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:26 AM   #5
BartenderPlease
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The dealer shouldn't be allowed near the car. Any time you get a check engine light, go to AutoZone and get the codes scanned and get Freeze Frame data at idle. Then come back on here and post all the information. We are the only ones trying not to let you to drop a thousand to fix it.
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Old 08-15-2014, 08:11 AM   #6
markusmarkus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kubomon17 View Post
I will read through everything on my break at work today. Surprise surprise the dealer told me the wrong info. Idiots. And I'm on iOS...

Get OBD Fusion and a wifi adapter that plugs into the obd2 port under the driver side dash. Report back with the stream of data.


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Old 08-16-2014, 04:11 PM   #7
kubomon17
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Ok update time. I did a smoke test and found a leak in the central part of the engine. You can see smoke coming from underneath the intake manifold, if I'm calling it the right thing (sorry, still kinda new to doing my own repairs). There's also a loud hissing noise coming from this area. Please take a look at my pics at the link below. Any ideas what could be the culprit? Is it easier to go at this from the top or the bottom of the car? Thanks in advance guys.

https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A4JEsNWnGiiNHo
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Old 08-16-2014, 06:22 PM   #8
kubomon17
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From the research I've done so far it looks like I'm gonna have to remove the intake manifold, which seems like a fairly sizable project. Is there really no alternative?
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Old 08-16-2014, 07:32 PM   #9
lszlszx
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Removing the alternator is less work and you can get to the CCV system.

You can check the lower hose (#4) from underneath, that's a common problem:




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Old 08-16-2014, 10:10 PM   #10
BartenderPlease
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Since you are removing the intake manifold, you should replace the manifold's gasket and the throttle body gasket with dealer replacements while it is all apart.
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'02 JR/Naturbraun 330i M-Tech I | M-Tech II Fr. | Supersprint Headers | Remus Sport |
.....| SM Flywheel Conv. | 18" CH'ish reps | Short Shift | Orion V2.5 | RCR LED Tail |

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Old 08-16-2014, 10:31 PM   #11
JoeRoundel
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You don't need to remove the intake manifold. Your leak in coming from a failed crank case breather hose. Replace the crank case breather valve and all connecting hoses. There are several writeups on how to do this without removing the intake manifold (which wont help you much anyways).
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