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Old 12-17-2015, 10:07 PM   #1
tbarb13
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2002 BMW 330i problems :(

Ok here we go. On monday I bought this car with 130k miles on it. She drove like a beast! There was no slip, lag, or hesitation in performance. It didn't have any serious problems at first.There was an oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket and it was making a squealing noise, in which it figured it was a belt or pulley (easy stuff to work on). Well I decided to just give it a tune up since I don't know how it was treated in the past. I was going to do an oil change, change the valve cover gasket, spark plugs, serpentine belt and all pulleys, and do a coolant flush.

Well, I decided to start with a the valve cover gasket since it seemed to have the most serious consequences if not changed soon. I seemed to be going pretty good so I decided to change the spark plugs while I was in there. Well I put it all back together and it immediately started running rough. The car was having a damn seizure. I cut it off as quickly as I could and ran some codes. These codes came up:

P1350- Misfire During Start Cylinder 5
P0313- Misfire Detected with Low Fuel
P1343- Misfire Cylinder 1 With Fuel Cut-off
P0313- Misfire Detected with Low Fuel (came up twice)
P0174- System Too Lean (Bank 2)
P0171- System Too Lean (Bank 1)

I thought it was the spark plugs as I bought the single platinum, but later learned I needed the double platinum. So I go to the store and buy a new set of NKG's finest double platinum plugs. Took the old plugs out, 4 are wet with gas, 1 is slightly wet, and 1 is just bone dry. I put them in and start it up, but it still runs rough. I crack down and just get a whole new set of boots as well, but it still didn't change a thing.

While I was changing the valve cover gasket I broke the vacuum hose on the secondary air injection check valve when I tried to move it out of the way. The hose was rotted so I just put a new one on and didn't think anything else of it. Well after it was running rough I decided to do a smoke test to see if there were any other leaks. When I blew the smoke in the line I immediately see smoke coming out the back right side of the engine near the bottom of the intake.. I thought the other side of the line I changed may be rotted as well so I changed it out (the one that connects the check valve to the secondary air solenoid on back to the intake). Did the smoke test again and still see smoke coming up. I'm stumped.

My questions to all you e46Fanatics are:

What do you think may be the problem?
What would a cylinder get low/no fuel?
Where would the smoke be coming from?
What do you think made my engine start running rough like this?
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Old 12-17-2015, 11:44 PM   #2
vali02
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Sorry to hear you're having so much trouble with your new car. I'm not sure why your car would be running rough after the tuneup you've done to it. Vacuum leaks and bad fuel pressure can cause some of the things you've mentioned obviously. Since you've done a smoke test and found leaks you can address those first. I'm assuming you're talking about the drivers side of the engine (the right side when you look at it). There are a few plugs on the back of the intake as you can see in this picture:


Also down there is where the brake booster connects to the sucking jet pump (a little below the manifold). Another one is the fuel pressure regulator hose 1/8 inch ID goes from the f connector in the top intake boot down under the drivers seat where the fuel filter with the pressure regulator are. I'm not sure if you're aware but you can easily remove that plastic cover that covers the brake master cylinder right behind the brake booster. After you remove the cabin filter and the filter holder, unplug the brake booster line and pull the weather trimming off. There are 2 plastic clips at the top that hold the plastic cover in place you just have to rotate them 90 degrees counter clockwise and they come out. Then you just have to maneuver the plastic cover off. When its off you'll be able to get a much better look down there.

Btw the fuel pumps on these cars are notorious for going bad sometimes they give you low pressure if the fuel tank is below 1/4. Make sure you have above 1/4 fuel just in case. If your rough problem is still there I would do a fuel pressure test as a sanity check. There is a Schrader valve at the front of the fuel rail if you remove the engine cover.

Hope this helps. Good luck getting her running.

Last edited by vali02; 12-17-2015 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 12-18-2015, 04:22 AM   #3
tbarb13
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I don't think it's the fuel pump since i just filled up the day before this happened. Its still on full. But yes that's the plug in taking about. The other 2 plugs to the left of that one also have good hoses on them as well so I don't think it's either one of those. The smoke looks like it would be coming from somewhere under one of those two plugs on the left. I did remove the air filter housing but I didn't know I could remove that. Thanks for the advice I'll try that as soon as I get off from work.
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Old 12-18-2015, 07:02 AM   #4
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3 of the codes are because of low fuel during the misfire.
2 of the codes are from the vacuum leak.
The last, misfire code is likely the leak as well. Double check your head gasket. If your miles are that high I would refresh the intake boot and hoses anyway as GM.

I'm no help on secondary air, I deleted mine but doesn't sound like u are leaking there after changing the hoses.
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Old 12-18-2015, 07:22 AM   #5
tbarb13
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Could a vacuum leak cause misfire?
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Old 12-18-2015, 08:10 AM   #6
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If the vacuum leak is severe enough.

Does the car have the original fuel pump. I'd change it with a pump and a filter from bma parts or FCPEuro. Make sure it's a Siemens fuel pump.

Are the new spark plugs NGK BKR6EQUP? Those are the ONLY plugs for the M54 engine. They're what BMW specifies for this engine.
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Old 12-18-2015, 08:24 AM   #7
tbarb13
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Originally Posted by markusmarkus View Post
If the vacuum leak is severe enough.

Does the car have the original fuel pump. I'd change it with a pump and a filter from bma parts or FCPEuro. Make sure it's a Siemens fuel pump.

Are the new spark plugs NGK BKR6EQUP? Those are the ONLY plugs for the M54 engine. They're what BMW specifies for this engine.
I'm not exactly sure what the part number is for the spark plugs I bought but they were the NKG laser platinum ones with the 4 tips. Looked exactly like the old ones I pulled out. I'm not sure on the fuel pump though. If it were the fuel pump, why would it go out spontaneously after I changed the spark plugs, boots, and valve cover gasket?

Last edited by tbarb13; 12-18-2015 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 12-18-2015, 10:25 AM   #8
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If they were NGK laser platinum with 4 tips they are the correct ones (BKR6EQUP). The fuel pumps on these car is notorious for having problems. You can look at it from the top and you might be able to figure out if its original. If it is original at 130k miles you should change it as PM regardless. This is a good video of how to get to the fuel pump:


The original fuel pump will be clamped with a clamp that doesn't have a screw on it. Its like a clip style. If its the clip style and it doesn't look mangled at all then its original pump and you should change it. Fuel filter is good PM to do as well and it'll relief some stress on the electric motor on the pump. Total cost of both is about $200.
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:48 AM   #9
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A vacuum leak will cause the MAF to under report the air flow into the engine, resulting in less fuel injected (lean condition)
Fix the air leaks from the smoke test then- re check your work on the valve cover gasket if you still have a problem.
4 wet plugs would indicate your are getting fuel (fuel pump problem less likely) but not spark.
Before you throw parts at it hoping for fix (fuel pump) check the fuel pressure. The fuel filter has a hose that runs up to the engine from the fuel pressure regulator on the filter, check that hose too.
You had the O2 sensors disconnected, make sure they are reconnected properly and you do not have the connections for bank 1 and 2 switched.
Check the crankcase vent hose that connects to the valve cover. Could cause an air leak (lean condition) would not emit smoke from the smoke test on the manifold, it connects to the crankcase.
Make sure the ground wires are connected on the top of the valve cover.
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Last edited by shanneba; 12-18-2015 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 12-18-2015, 04:56 PM   #10
tbarb13
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Ok guys remember how I thought that squealing noise was a belt or pulley? Well I found out it was coming from that back of the engine bay instead of the front. And the noise changed in pitch when I revved the engine slightly. I imagine the noise is coming from air being sucked in from the same spot the smoke is coming out.

Also I unplugged the MAF for a few seconds while it was running and it immediately ran like there was no problem. Although the high pitch noise remained. What does this mean? And I still wanna know why the heck all this happened after I changed the spark plugs and gasket haha.
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Old 12-18-2015, 05:05 PM   #11
vali02
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If it runs better with MAF unplugged this usually means a vacuum leak. I'm assuming the rough running might be because with the new valve cover gasket its leaking less air into the engine so it needs some time to adapt to the change in air coming in, or you have multiple problems. Find the vacuum leak and fix it. Then run the engine if it runs a little rough with no codes it might be ok. You'll have to drive it around a little and it should adapt quickly. With vacuum leaks the engine will run rough at idle, under partial throttle and at low rpm. If the problem is solely due to vacuum leak it shouldn't run rough at higher rpm > 2000 with throttle open. This is because the ration between air leaking in and air passing the MAF is smaller than at idle or partial throttle.
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Old 12-19-2015, 01:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbarb13 View Post
Ok guys remember how I thought that squealing noise was a belt or pulley? Well I found out it was coming from that back of the engine bay instead of the front. And the noise changed in pitch when I revved the engine slightly. I imagine the noise is coming from air being sucked in from the same spot the smoke is coming out.

Also I unplugged the MAF for a few seconds while it was running and it immediately ran like there was no problem. Although the high pitch noise remained. What does this mean? And I still wanna know why the heck all this happened after I changed the spark plugs and gasket haha.
Just like the SAP hose, you probably broke or cracked a vacuum line while you were changing the VCG. Just fix the vacuum leak where the smoke is coming out and go from there. If you can't see it, remove parts to gain access, use a mechanics inspection mirror, and get lots of light in there. Fix that first, then report back.
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Old 12-19-2015, 11:57 PM   #13
andriyselezen
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There is a hose that connected to the valve cover at vanos - make sure its sits correctly
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Old 12-20-2015, 01:03 PM   #14
tbarb13
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Originally Posted by BaliDawg View Post
Just like the SAP hose, you probably broke or cracked a vacuum line while you were changing the VCG. Just fix the vacuum leak where the smoke is coming out and go from there. If you can't see it, remove parts to gain access, use a mechanics inspection mirror, and get lots of light in there. Fix that first, then report back.
Ok I took the air intake off and found out it had a large hole in it. Would this cause the noise and other problems I was having?

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Old 12-20-2015, 02:40 PM   #15
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^ Yes, that'll definitely cause a vacuum leak.

Here's the image for others to see: https://i.imgur.com/J73QmLT.jpg

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Old 12-20-2015, 04:45 PM   #16
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That would cause everything.
You now need to clean your Idle Control Valve (ICV). Just do a search on this forum for a DIY.
The hole in that part of the boot has probably gunked up the ICV to the point where it can function correctly, which make the engine perform like crap.
Had the exact same issue as you described. 1 hour, and some throttle body cleaner, and all good.
Get to work, and report.
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:11 PM   #17
tbarb13
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Well I put everything back together cleared the codes and it started and idled an normal. I asked it for about 10 minutes to make sure no codes came up. It was fine but as soon as I started driving I could feel less powerful. I could really feel it while going over an inclined bridge then the church engine light came on. By the time I got to the bottom of the bride I hit a red light and whole sitting there the car stalled. I started it back up and got it home but 4 different codes came up. Does anyone know what these are/mean?:
P1343
P1349
P1351
P1353
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:22 PM   #18
tbarb13
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I forgot, the noise is still there and now I'm starting to think it's coming from the front. Here's a video, tell me what you guys thin:

Also the battery keeps dying. I thought it was because it's been really cold lately and the glove box light wouldn't turn off when the box was closed. Now all this makes me think that it's the alternator causing the battery dying, the misfires, the noise. Is this possible?

Last edited by tbarb13; 12-20-2015 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:27 PM   #19
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I believe those are all misfire codes on different cylinders. Is the engine problem intermittent or is it always running poorly now? If its still a vacuum leak I believe if you remove the MAF sensor it should run better at least no misfires.
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:36 PM   #20
tbarb13
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But the codes p1741 and p1474 are gone which indicate the banks are too lean. I believe the air leak is fixed but the misfires have spread. I'm thinking alternator.
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