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General E46 Forum
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:31 PM   #21
Russianpegs
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Getting the pedals ready. Pressed the bushings in. First polished them with my dremle, then pressed it in (very tight fit) and greased them. Glad I polished them because they are smooth considering how tight they went in. I put grip tape on the pedals and had it before. The grip is awesome. Also have comparison pics with auto and manual pedals
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:22 PM   #22
love2drive330CI
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Subcribed!!!

Man I wish I was close by (opposite coast) as I would love to observe/help when I could on a rebuild!!!
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Old 07-26-2016, 09:26 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russianpegs View Post
Getting the pedals ready. Pressed the bushings in. First polished them with my dremle, then pressed it in (very tight fit) and greased them. Glad I polished them because they are smooth considering how tight they went in. I put grip tape on the pedals and had it before. The grip is awesome. Also have comparison pics with auto and manual pedals
Does that help with the sloppy clutch pedal?

Also I hope you can help me on the one.
Im going to change my clutch on my 330i non zhp 6 speed. When shifting to 2nd I can hear a little gear noise but it only does it sometimes.

By the way keep thr updates coming.

Sent from my SM-G925P using Tapatalk
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Old 07-27-2016, 05:06 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by love2drive330CI View Post
Subcribed!!!

Man I wish I was close by (opposite coast) as I would love to observe/help when I could on a rebuild!!!
Thanks! It's a lot more work than I thought. Then again, people tell me I'm a perfectionist so I'm trying to get everything perfect before I consider the project finished.
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Old 07-27-2016, 05:10 PM   #25
Russianpegs
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Does that help with the sloppy clutch pedal?

Also I hope you can help me on the one.
Im going to change my clutch on my 330i non zhp 6 speed. When shifting to 2nd I can hear a little gear noise but it only does it sometimes.

By the way keep thr updates coming.

Sent from my SM-G925P using Tapatalk
These bushings keep the clutch pedal from feeling wobbley and prevent future squeeking (brass bushings impregnated with oil). Hmm, sounds like it might be somthing to do with the shifting linkage. I'm no expert in this though, I'm still learning new things about this car everyday.
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Old 08-05-2016, 02:28 PM   #26
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Ok, so the car's a shell now. Pretty much chassis except for the fuel tank and rear end. Took the dashboard/steering frame and clear coated it (was raw metal). The tar was removed, also made firewall plugs from aluminum. They will create a perfect seal with the addition of some gasket maker or silicone.

Question: will I suffer with fog?

Has anyone with blower delete had fog problems in the car?
I'm planning on using anti fog on ever window inside the car. Any input is highly appreciated
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Old 08-06-2016, 02:28 AM   #27
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i am very, very sad

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Old 08-06-2016, 09:25 AM   #28
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i am very, very sad

Why is that?
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:01 AM   #29
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Getting closer to finishing this build! Made a better merge collector, 12 degree angle to megaphone 2.25 to 3 inch single outlet. Should scavenge well, hope to hear and feel the difderence. The merge collector has clamps that both hold it to the mid pipes and are suspended with the oem exhaust hangers.
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Old 08-15-2016, 05:24 PM   #30
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Got the car started yesterday. I, being used to an automatic, forgot to push the clutch in and was worrying I had electrical issues. Now all that's left is interior and perfecting little issues with the car.
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Old 08-15-2016, 05:43 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Russianpegs View Post
Getting closer to finishing this build! Made a better merge collector, 12 degree angle to megaphone 2.25 to 3 inch single outlet. Should scavenge well, hope to hear and feel the difderence. The merge collector has clamps that both hold it to the mid pipes and are suspended with the oem exhaust hangers.

Your new Merge Y-Pipe looks like a good copy of the Burns Stainless...

It's almost identical to my Burns Stainless that I've been running for years.


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Old 08-15-2016, 06:05 PM   #32
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For anyone that's interested:
Differences between auto and manual-
1. Wiring harness (there's no clutch sensor on an auto wiring harness, so car will start regardless of pushing in the clutch or not, there are some other plugs an auto wiring harness has that are not included in manual cars)
2. Key ignition (the back of the key igniton - there is a cable that pushes a pin in the key lock, allowing to completely turn key to off position and pull the key out in an auto)
3. Rear axles (manual axles are tapered at both ends, auto are a thinner, single guage)
4. Brake pedals (auto pedals have larger ends)
5. Clutch (not just the pedal but the whole assembly including the hose connecting to the brake fluid resuvor and the line going to the clutch cylinder, but the framing the holds the pedals themselves is the same on both auto and manual cars)
6. Radiator (auto radiators have transmission oil coolers built in under the expansion tank, manuals do not. Autos have drain screws on the radiator, manuals have drain screws on both expansion tank and radiator.)
7. Fans (non-m manuals have electrical fans between the engine and radiator, autos have the auxiliary fan, fan shroud and mechanical fan.)
8. Threads (the chassis of an auto has threads pressed into the chassis that hold the gear shift unit above the transmission.)
9. The ecu box cooling fan (it's located to the left of the pedals, not sure why but the structure is slightly different)
10. Drive shaft (my auto driveshaft was shorter)
11. Exhaust hanger (manuals have an exhaust hanger on the bottom of the transmission)
12. Mechanical differences (obvious stuff: transmission, shift knob, clutch pedal)
13. Plugs (the chassis have holes that have rubber plugs (insulation holes tear out and can't be plugged back the way they used to be) for stuff like the gear shift cable, the clutch line and clutch hose to brake fluid reservoir.)

Those are some of the major differences, if there are more feel free to list them.
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:07 PM   #33
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Very nice. Now don't park next to any trees.
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Old 08-17-2016, 06:17 PM   #34
Russianpegs
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Originally Posted by Rob43 View Post
Your new Merge Y-Pipe looks like a good copy of the Burns Stainless...

It's almost identical to my Burns Stainless that I've been running for years.


Rob43
That's the brand I was originally going to go with, but decided the check around and found a local company called spd (specialty products design). Turns out they were clearing some inventory including the size of merge collector I needed.
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Old 08-17-2016, 06:18 PM   #35
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Very nice. Now don't park next to any trees.
They seem to be everywhere where I live. If it happens again, I'm going to travel by helicopter. Damn trees...
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Old 08-18-2016, 11:11 AM   #36
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14. Throttle pedal (auto has a notchy feel towards full throttle, while manual throttle pedals are smooth all the way to full throttle)

Last edited by Russianpegs; 08-18-2016 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 08-18-2016, 04:46 PM   #37
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Auto pedal is notchy because it had a kick down switch just before full throttle
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Old 08-19-2016, 09:14 AM   #38
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While the pan was open I decided to go ahead and weld the oil pump nut. Was thinking about it and figured I would lightly tighten the oil pump nut before welding, that way there is less force on the spindle (and hopefully less chance of it shearing off).
That's a bit of a mistake. You misunderstand the fundamental principle behind torquing nuts and bolts.

The purpose is preloading and clamp force. If your clamp force is less than the force that the bolt/nut will see, then the joint will move and can expand under load. This subjects the bolt/nut to cyclic loading which fatigues the material. That is very bad. When the clamp force is higher than the experienced load, then the bolt/nut never sees cyclic loading. This is the intended function.

Hopefully it's still tight enough to prevent cyclic loading.

The pump nut/stud shearing does not happen on these cars anyway. The nut falls off. So you were implementing a "solution" for a problem that doesn't exist. Be careful...
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Old 08-19-2016, 11:57 AM   #39
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That's a bit of a mistake. You misunderstand the fundamental principle behind torquing nuts and bolts.

The purpose is preloading and clamp force. If your clamp force is less than the force that the bolt/nut will see, then the joint will move and can expand under load. This subjects the bolt/nut to cyclic loading which fatigues the material. That is very bad. When the clamp force is higher than the experienced load, then the bolt/nut never sees cyclic loading. This is the intended function.

Hopefully it's still tight enough to prevent cyclic loading.

The pump nut/stud shearing does not happen on these cars anyway. The nut falls off. So you were implementing a "solution" for a problem that doesn't exist. Be careful...
I saw some welded nuts that sheared off which made me think the oil pump nut can be over tightened. That along with the heating that came from welding not properly tempered/annealed can cause the metal to become brittle where the weld is.
I figured if I tighten it up enough to hold the sprocket but minimal amount as not to stretch the spindle holding the sprocket, it would be the strongest approach.
If the sprocket can move around on the spindle, I agree it will cause damage aka cyclic load. But the torque specs for these nuts are only around 18 ft lbs. This makes me think there's not much force on the sprocket, but rather high frequency harmonic vibrations that vibrate the nut loose.
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Old 08-19-2016, 12:10 PM   #40
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Correct. It's high freq vibration that causes them to back off. I probably wouldn't weld them though just cause it's a lot of work and largely unnecessary. Permanent thread locker should add a nice layer of security. Wire tie seals the deal.

From the factory, ZHPs get an encapsulated nut as a fix. You don't really hear about those backing off.
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