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Old 10-02-2016, 05:30 PM   #21
Dappman
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Toronto
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My Ride: E46 325xi
O2 sensors, before or after the cat aren't going to fix this problem. You have bad idle during open loop. O2 sensor information isn't used during open loop.

Last edited by Dappman; 10-02-2016 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 10-02-2016, 10:25 PM   #22
jfoj
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I think I clearly outlined the list of many problems the OP's vehicle has.

Lazy Pre-cat O2 sensors were one of many problems. This is likely the classic 10+ year old E46 with the majority of original parts still installed.

I also mentioned that the fuel management system was in error the entire time Logs were generated as well. The engine fuel management system never went into Closed Loop due to system faults or problems.

BUT what seems to continue to be overlooked is there is clearly a DTC for the Idle Air Control system. Whether this is a total failure of the ICV, a ICV that is carboned up, a problem with the ICV wiring or something else, only a proper removal, cleaning and inspection of the ICV will give anyone an idea as to what is going on.

Not sure that this simple suggestion to remove, inspect and clean the ICV is not on the top of the TODO list, it is beyond me.

There is too much focus on the wrong areas and at this point it will just prolong the inevitable.

Resolving the P050 code should be high on the priority list.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 10-04-2016, 09:42 AM   #23
Marty330xi
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OK, I have a new problem. And it is much more concerning than the others. I drove the car about 1 mile to go to but some windshield fluid. At the shop, when I started the car a plastic burning smell invaded the cabin and smoke was coming out of the middle vents. I immediately shut off the engine and removed the key. I started the car back up and shut the cabin temperature module off. When I parked the car and shut it off, but still with the key on the acc mode, I kept hearing a buzzing noise coming from the middle vents. Now I am utterly scare of the car catching fire.

Now there is also different conditions to this episode. First the fans usually don't work, but this time they worked for a minute then died and after they started only to smell like burned plastic. The car also did not stall on the cold start and the idle *dancing* was way less present than described in the original post.

So I will begin to be sleepless and call my insurance to get the fire protection. Also can BMW help me or is my car just too old?

Thanks a lot guys

Last edited by Marty330xi; 10-04-2016 at 09:43 AM.
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Old 10-04-2016, 11:12 AM   #24
jfoj
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Search here for the term FSU. This is the Final Stage Unit or the fan resistor pack that fails often and will cause the HVAC fan speed to vary and the fan will even run with the car shut off and drain the battery.

I am guessing the FSU shorted and needs to be replaced. Many, many DIY's here and on YouTube.

Might want to disconnect the battery if the car is sitting so the battery does not run down. I will not say a failed FSU is not a fire hazard, but many fail without causing fires.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 01-26-2017, 01:10 PM   #25
328ci-lemon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
You have about 4 separate problems from my initial take.

This is only one snapshot of data, so not sure we can solve all the problems with one wave of the magic wand.

To start, I will break it into sub sections to address.

1. Engine RPM is unstable, there is a P0505 IAC code, my first recommendation is to remove the ICV and clean it out. It should move very freely and rattle around when you shake/rotate it. If it does not rattle, it needs to be cleaned or replaced.

When you remove the ICV, make 100% you FULLY seat the valve back into the grommet, this is a mistake almost every nube makes.

2. There is a MAP thermostat code, I would not rush on this one, but it most likely means the thermostat needs to be replaced. You are up North so not sure how quickly the cold weather is coming your way. This will have limited impact, if any, on cold start idle performance.

3. SAP Pending code. My view of the Cold Start Log shows that the SAP may not be working very well. But I am also seeing that the Bank #1 Pre-cat O2 sensor is a bit lazy. There are also some faults in the Mode $06 chart is the Diagnostic Report as well, these may be due to the Bank #1 Pre-cat O2 sensor being lazy. I would recommend replacing BOTH Pre-cat O2 sensors with Bosch Direct Fit O2 sensors. Make sure you label and VERIFY the Pre-cat O2 sensors wiring is connected properly. Make no assumptions that they are corrected properly at this point. We can get into this later.

4. The SAP system may also have a bad vacuum hose or hoses. Very common problem, there is a vacuum hose that runs along the valve cover to under the rear of the intake. A bit of PITA to replace, but this is almost always a problem. The large hose from the output of the SAP pump is probably brittle and cracking as well. These should be checked and replaced just because. The SAP system not working properly should not have much to do with the idle stability on cold start.

5. Until we get the Pre-cat O2 sensors replaced and solve some other problems, I will wait on making a final determination about the MAF. The MAF may be over reporting slightly, most of these engines have a MAF reading at 700 RPM on a warm engine around 3.8.-4.2 g/s. Yours is slight high.

Not sure if you can DIY, if you can, these are all fairly easy things to do and you will be around $120 USD in parts or less unless you need to replace the ICV or MAF.

You might try starting the engine cold from overnight with the MAF disconnected and see how the idle is, if no change, pull the ICV and clean it for sure. If it idles better, just make note of this and still pull and clean the ICV.

I would put intake boots, fuel pump and fuel filter on the short list as well.

Welcome to a 15 BMW or just a 15 year old car!

BTW, forgot to mention that for the warm idle Log, the Bank #2 Post-cat O2 sensor was at a very low Voltage. This could mean the Bank #2 converter is not working correctly, or it could mean there is something else is up. Not sure we can make a firm decision based on just the one set of Logs. But something to keep an eye on.
Jfoj, after finding this thread a month after the fact, and encountering limp mode, p0505 code and a dancing rpm on very first start up (when Cold), what other steps can be taken to remedy the p0505 apart from cleaning and re-seating the icv?

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