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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 11-05-2016, 10:28 AM   #1
Qwest
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Iowa
Posts: 20
My Ride: 2004 330xi
No start/no crank

As of the start of this year in my car I've replaced: alternator, battery, starter, ignition switch, and spark plugs. Walked out to my car one morning after driving it the night before and it wouldn't start. It wouldn't crank at all so I went ahead and ordered a new starter. Two months later (the all acclaimed "use a box wrench" method for getting the starter bolts off ruined any chance of them coming off so I had to drill them off). After replacing the starter I had the same issue. No start no crank. So today I replaced the ignition switch, again no crank at all, but I can hear a click (starter solenoid?). My taillight dash lights turn on saying they aren't working, but they do (probably the bad ground issue most people get) but that is also the symptom for a bad ignition switch, but like I said I just replaced it so I thought that would take care of the issue. I'm honestly lost for what to done to. After 3 months of being without my car and winter approaching it's getting frustrating.
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Old 11-05-2016, 01:26 PM   #2
Qwest
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current dash lights.


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Old 11-05-2016, 05:12 PM   #3
jfoj
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What is the battery Voltage while the ignition is on?
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 11-05-2016, 05:17 PM   #4
Qwest
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I'm assuming it's where it should be as I've been leaving the charger on it but I'll report back when I check it.


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Old 11-05-2016, 05:38 PM   #5
jfoj
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Need to verify the battery is actually good. You cannot properly charge a bad battery.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 11-05-2016, 05:43 PM   #6
RayBao99
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My Ride: 2006 E46 330ci ZHP
Check the cam and crank sensors


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Old 11-05-2016, 05:50 PM   #7
Qwest
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@jfoj battery should be good. Fresh this year. But will double check. Only left the charger on because trying to start was draining it


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Old 11-05-2016, 10:37 PM   #8
jmo69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayBao99 View Post
Check the cam and crank sensors


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Wouldn't cause the engine to not crank.
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Old 11-05-2016, 11:31 PM   #9
Swiff
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Is the car manual or automatic.
If your car is automatic then I don't see the the park (P) indicator on your cluster. Check all of the fuses in the glove box especially F30.
If it is manual then check F9 , F14 still check all the fuses. Clutch position switch could be bad. You could jump it out.
Also see if your hazard lights work as you may have a bad ground.
Have you tried jumping the starter from under the hood? Maybe broken / pinched wire somewhere or missing signal wire.
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Old 11-06-2016, 09:04 AM   #10
Qwest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swiff View Post
Is the car manual or automatic.

If your car is automatic then I don't see the the park (P) indicator on your cluster. Check all of the fuses in the glove box especially F30.

If it is manual then check F9 , F14 still check all the fuses. Clutch position switch could be bad. You could jump it out.

Also see if your hazard lights work as you may have a bad ground.

Have you tried jumping the starter from under the hood? Maybe broken / pinched wire somewhere or missing signal wire.

It is a manual, hazard lights still work fine. I haven't tried jumping the starter because it's such a pain to get to. Haven't check the clutch switch. When I first had this issue I could hear the switch engage/disengage but I'll try bypassing it.


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Old 11-06-2016, 09:19 AM   #11
Qwest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Need to verify the battery is actually good. You cannot properly charge a bad battery.

Battery is 12.2v under load


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Old 11-06-2016, 10:06 AM   #12
Qwest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swiff View Post
Is the car manual or automatic.

If your car is automatic then I don't see the the park (P) indicator on your cluster. Check all of the fuses in the glove box especially F30.

If it is manual then check F9 , F14 still check all the fuses. Clutch position switch could be bad. You could jump it out.

Also see if your hazard lights work as you may have a bad ground.

Have you tried jumping the starter from under the hood? Maybe broken / pinched wire somewhere or missing signal wire.

Bypassed clutch sensor (or at least I think I did), still no start. All fuses appear to be fine.


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Old 11-06-2016, 01:10 PM   #13
Swiff
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You need a multimeter / digital powerprobe for this.
Notes: A reading consists of anything between 0v - 12v. No reading = open circuit.
Since your car is a manual you would have to push in the clutch to check these values. Providing your clutch starter safety switch is working. 4 pin connector at starter safety switch pin#3 violet/yellow gets power from fuse F9. Pin#1 is a ground. Pin#2 (black/blue wire) goes to pin#23 on DME. Jump pin#2 and pin#3 so that you dont have to hold in the clutch pedal. See if the car starts.
Ignition switch has 3 fuses F105-pin#5, F106-pin#6, F50-pin#7 which should have power present at the ignition switch connector. Check resistance between pin#8 from ignition switch (black/brown wire) to pin#3 on EWS to ensure wire not broken anywhere.
EWS has 2 fuses F67-pin#10, F14-pin#11 at the EWS connector. If it reads the EWS ring antenna then the (black wire) pin#1 should have a reading while in cranking position.
DME connector x60003 pin#12 (black/yellow) should have a reading while cranking.
If everything is good up to this point then the starter is no good or you forgot to put a wire back on. The black/yellow wire goes to the inside smaller 8mm nut. The black wire goes to the outer 10mm nut.
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Old 11-06-2016, 01:37 PM   #14
Qwest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swiff View Post
You need a multimeter / digital powerprobe for this.

Notes: A reading consists of anything between 0v - 12v. No reading = open circuit.

Since your car is a manual you would have to push in the clutch to check these values. Providing your clutch starter safety switch is working. 4 pin connector at starter safety switch pin#3 violet/yellow gets power from fuse F9. Pin#1 is a ground. Pin#2 (black/blue wire) goes to pin#23 on DME. Jump pin#2 and pin#3 so that you dont have to hold in the clutch pedal. See if the car starts.

Ignition switch has 3 fuses F105-pin#5, F106-pin#6, F50-pin#7 which should have power present at the ignition switch connector. Check resistance between pin#8 from ignition switch (black/brown wire) to pin#3 on EWS to ensure wire not broken anywhere.

EWS has 2 fuses F67-pin#10, F14-pin#11 at the EWS connector. If it reads the EWS ring antenna then the (black wire) pin#1 should have a reading while in cranking position.

DME connector x60003 pin#12 (black/yellow) should have a reading while cranking.

If everything is good up to this point then the starter is no good or you forgot to put a wire back on. The black/yellow wire goes to the inside smaller 8mm nut. The black wire goes to the outer 10mm nut.


Following a dyi on here I spliced the blue/brown wire into the yellow/purple to bypass the clutch switch but still be able to use my cruise control, but for me it was pins 1 and 4. Is this correct?


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Old 11-06-2016, 01:48 PM   #15
Qwest
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Also pin 8 is a blue/black wire for me


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Old 11-06-2016, 02:15 PM   #16
Qwest
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No start/no crank

On the clutch sensor harness I get 8v between the two wires I connected. I'm assuming that means I basically connected the ground to the 12v power? Not good with electronics sorry, will have to be babied a bit in that aspect


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update: I'm an idiot and what I thought was the clutch sensor wasn't. I've connected pins two and three on the actual clutch sensor and now my tail light out dash lights aren't on anymore. However the yellow/purple wire that I disconnected from before and the blue/red wire aren't connected. Because I'm dumb.

Last edited by Qwest; 11-06-2016 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 11-06-2016, 04:09 PM   #17
Swiff
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At the ignition switch connector#x33 the color for pin#8 is black/brown. It goes through a connector that changes the color to black/blue. At the EWS connector#x1659 pin#3 is black/blue. If the wire color is different on your vehicle it's ok. As long as the connector# and pin# is correct. This wire you were just checking for continuity to make sure there were no breaks in the wire.
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Old 11-07-2016, 10:22 AM   #18
Qwest
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No start/no crank

Car is also throwing two codes:
P0456 evaporative emission system leak detected (very small leak)
And
P0128 coolant thermostat (coolant temperature below thermostat regulating temperature)

DME codes:
2D multifunction steering wheel, monitoring interface
3E activation, solenoid valve, secondary air

DSC codes:
61 steering-angle sensor, identification
5A brief power interruption

Last edited by Qwest; 11-07-2016 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 11-07-2016, 11:10 PM   #19
Swiff
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Did the car start. From items being unplugged with the key on it will store codes. Clear the codes and when you turn the key back on see if they come back.
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Old 11-07-2016, 11:37 PM   #20
Qwest
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Still no start, these codes are all from clearing all codes once, and then reason again. Some went away and these are what remained


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