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Old 02-07-2017, 07:38 PM   #1
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One bad downshift ---> fuel issues and misfiring. Any advice?

So today started off quite lovely. Went to the gym, late class go canceled so I decided to go on a short cruise with the local car club. Coming around a pretty sharp harpin in I end up going from the top of second straight into first.

She did not like that!

Gets loud. All hell breaks loose. Batter light comes right on. Bit of black smoke. Anger.

I immediately throw it back into neutral, then second and third.

Battery light stays on, CEL comes on. she is running rough! I find a spot to pull over and start checking the suspects. Belt is still there and a fine, plenty of tension. Pretty potent smell coming from the engine bay though. Hard to make out. But from initial inspection everything seems to be okay and in place. No smoke, steam, leaks, broken stuffs. But I start it up and man it sounds rough. Like I'm driving on 5 cyl or it's not getting enough fuel rough. I check the codes.



Only the p1345 came of first. The second one didn't show up until I made it back to the rendezvous.

at which point I realized that I had my computer with me and decided to see what pa soft had to say.

As follows....



The drivability problem seemed to be sporadic. for a short while it even seemed to go away and run fine (minus the battery light still on). then once I started hitting 60ish on the highway the misfiring seemed to come back. Sometimes better and sometimes worse.

I stopped at advance and had them check my alternator on the way home. Diagnosis was "low voltage." Not surprised, the power spike must have fried it.

As far as the other issue, I am fairly convinced that it is fuel related. My guess/hope is that either the coil or the injector in the #2 cylinder sh*t the bed.

Now before you start saying CCV/Disa/MAF/Lower intake boot, please keep in mind that all of those have been replaced in the last year or so.
Anyone ever had something similar happen to them or have any advice? It would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 02-07-2017, 07:45 PM   #2
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Old 02-07-2017, 07:51 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Groznyy_Volk View Post
So today started off quite lovely. Went to the gym, late class go canceled so I decided to go on a short cruise with the local car club. Coming around a pretty sharp harpin in I end up going from the top of second straight into first.
How high did you see the revs? You could have tagged the exhaust valves with the pistons if she saw really high RPM. (My guess would be very high if you were already at 7000 RPM in second gear and then found first gear) Honestly I would do a leak down or compression test before you go any farther and make sure this isn't the case. Good luck and let us know.
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Old 02-07-2017, 08:07 PM   #4
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How high did you see the revs? You could have tagged the exhaust valves with the pistons if she saw really high RPM. (My guess would be very high if you were already at 7000 RPM in second gear and then found first gear) Honestly I would do a leak down or compression test before you go any farther and make sure this isn't the case. Good luck and let us know.
Researching now...

I'm praying that I didn't bend any valves.

I was at the at between 5-6k just before shifting. Don't remember how high it jumped.
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Old 02-07-2017, 08:20 PM   #5
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Probably bent valves unfortunately. Compression test first. #2 is probably going to be low or no compression. Check them all and if any are low you could do a leak down test. Are you able to remove and install the cylinder head?

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Old 02-07-2017, 08:45 PM   #6
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Probably bent valves unfortunately. Compression test first. #2 is probably going to be low or no compression. Check them all and if any are low you could do a leak down test. Are you able to remove and install the cylinder head?

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Old 02-07-2017, 08:54 PM   #7
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Researching now...

I'm praying that I didn't bend any valves.

I was at the at between 5-6k just before shifting. Don't remember how high it jumped.
If you were churning out 5000 to 6000 rpm in 2nd, and shifted into 1st, then you killed the engine.
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Old 02-07-2017, 08:55 PM   #8
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You don't remember how high it jumped because there are no numbers to display such an event.
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Old 02-07-2017, 08:56 PM   #9
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If you were churning out 5000 to 6000 rpm in 2nd, and shifted into 1st, then you killed the engine.
This is the part where I go cry in a dark corner.
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Old 02-07-2017, 11:45 PM   #10
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Old 02-08-2017, 12:51 AM   #11
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Old 02-08-2017, 04:46 AM   #12
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If you were churning out 5000 to 6000 rpm in 2nd, and shifted into 1st, then you killed the engine.
OP, JD's right... figure about 1000 RPM / gear, so you easily jumped to between 6 and 7K (and that's really probably closer to 7K, since it should be able to handle ~6500 for as short a time as you describe).

Maybe it's something simple like you killed injector 2, spark plug 2, or, less likely, fried coil 2 (dunno how an overrev could lead to that, but...).
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Old 02-08-2017, 05:08 AM   #13
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OP, JD's right... figure about 1000 RPM / gear, so you easily jumped to between 6 and 7K (and that's really probably closer to 7K, since it should be able to handle ~6500 for as short a time as you describe).

Maybe it's something simple like you killed injector 2, spark plug 2, or, less likely, fried coil 2 (dunno how an overrev could lead to that, but...).
I think going from 6000rpm/2nd to 1st gear would easily rev the engine past 8500rpm
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Old 02-09-2017, 11:19 AM   #14
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Easily past 8500 RPM is right. 6000 in second is equivalent to 10144 rpm in first. 5000 rpm would be *ONLY* be 8453 in first, still not getting away with it unless you got the clutch back in before it peaked.
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Old 02-09-2017, 11:26 AM   #15
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Old 02-09-2017, 12:08 PM   #16
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Sorry to say but you have moneyshifted.

I went from 6th to 2nd at 80mph instead of 4th. Bent valves.

New valves and head gasket and all has been ok since. This was 6 years ago.
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Old 02-09-2017, 12:47 PM   #17
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If your car is only misfiring on one cylinder it didn't over rev as bad as it could have been. It still runs so that is good. If it is not knocking or making any other type of abnormal noise from the bottom end (crankcase area) then the worst case is probably just a few valves bent. If the rpm was high enough for long enough you would have bent valves on multiple cylinders or all cylinders. You just briefly touched the rpm required to float the valves. You said you can do the job your self. Shouldn't cost more than a gasket set, head bolts and probably some new exhaust manifold hardware and a few valves. And the labor for the machine shop to do the valve job. You will also need the cam timing tools but they are not expensive for Chinese knockoff on ebay or amazon. Do a compression test FIRST before anything else. If you have bent valves don't drive it home or wherever 5hrs to fix it with a misfire like that. You will damage the catalytic converter which is expensive. Aftermarket ones don't last and oem price WILL make you go cry in the corner

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Old 02-09-2017, 01:23 PM   #18
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If you bent valves you really, really should be checking rod length and replacing that set of rod bearings, at minimum.
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Old 02-09-2017, 01:39 PM   #19
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Engine is done in my opinion. Have someone drive you to advanced auto or advance auto parts and rent a cylinder compression tool. Use this vid to check the compression

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Old 02-11-2017, 07:02 PM   #20
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If it comes down to bent valves, I may as well put her up for a year and save up for an S54. Hoping it doesn't come to that though.
I swapped out the alternator today. Figured that I should start with the known issue and get that out of the way. Also noticed that my intake boot was ripped. Praying that is my only problem at this point. In any case I plan on doing a compression test before driving her anywhere.

All future updates will be on my "build"/ownership/maintenance thread here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...1082236&page=4
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