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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 10-17-2010, 03:33 PM   #81
OrientBlau
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Update:

My 8 year old BMW OEM battery died Friday night. Ive been meaning to get a new one as I knew I was on borrowed time at 8 years (7 yrs/11 months to be exact). When I turned the ignition, the xenons did all sorts of weird things like blinking and moving up and down. Dashboard lit up like a christmas tree. I heard the pump but the car wouldnt turn over in the least. A jump started it right up though, but it wouldnt hold the charge. I went to dinner with some frinds and needed a boost an hour later. The eye was still green though. I think others have said that theirs were green too, when it died.

Anyway, read plenty about the battery choices and was gonna do this before it died, but never got around to it. I ended up just picking a new one up from the dealer. It was an Exide stamped SEPT 2010, so thats good enough for me.
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Old 10-17-2010, 04:10 PM   #82
Crossfire05
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After reading this thread I went to Wally World and bought the 94R Max rated at 765 cca. It was $77 and was a perfect fit. Oh yeah and its black!
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Old 10-17-2010, 04:22 PM   #83
SweTurbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALPIN3 View Post
Just a quick update on my end...

After only 5 months of use, my Everstart Maxx 94R battery has dropped down to 14.0v (when the car is running) instead of the normal 14.3v it should be at. My DSC, ABS, and brake lights are coming on intermittently due to it. I thought it was due to a wheel speed sensor at first, but it seems that the 94R has already taken a dive and can't supply the DSC system with the proper voltage...hence the dash lights flickering on and off.

So...in about and hour I'm going to be heading back to the store to swap it out for a new one. We'll see if this new one is still holding a charge 5 months down the road or if the same thing happens again.
Dude , the battery's normal voltage is 12 give or take a few hundred millivolts.

The 14.2+/- 500mv is generated by the alternator , a dip in generator efficency (say by adding things to the charging system or by a worn voltage regulator) will cause a drop.

As long as you have over 13.8 volt's of charging you're fine.

A lower charge could however indicate that the battery has been severely drained or it has internal damage.
But in these cases you wouldn't be able to start your car.

You americans must have some wierd battery holders , i can drop pretty much any battery in my car and hook it up(in fact im running a 64Ah starter battery and a 88Ah Maintnence battery for the accerssories)
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Old 10-17-2010, 05:33 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by Pir4t View Post
Dude , the battery's normal voltage is 12 give or take a few hundred millivolts.

The 14.2+/- 500mv is generated by the alternator , a dip in generator efficency (say by adding things to the charging system or by a worn voltage regulator) will cause a drop.

As long as you have over 13.8 volt's of charging you're fine.

A lower charge could however indicate that the battery has been severely drained or it has internal damage.
But in these cases you wouldn't be able to start your car.

You americans must have some wierd battery holders , i can drop pretty much any battery in my car and hook it up(in fact im running a 64Ah starter battery and a 88Ah Maintnence battery for the accerssories)
I don't know, seems odd to me that after only 5 months, the battery itself will now only hold a charge of 12.3v (brand new it was at 12.7v)

It took my OEM battery 6 years to get to that point.
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Old 10-17-2010, 06:29 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALPIN3 View Post
Just a quick update on my end...

After only 5 months of use, my Everstart Maxx 94R battery has dropped down to 14.0v (when the car is running) instead of the normal 14.3v it should be at. My DSC, ABS, and brake lights are coming on intermittently due to it. I thought it was due to a wheel speed sensor at first, but it seems that the 94R has already taken a dive and can't supply the DSC system with the proper voltage...hence the dash lights flickering on and off.

So...in about and hour I'm going to be heading back to the store to swap it out for a new one. We'll see if this new one is still holding a charge 5 months down the road or if the same thing happens again.
How do you know the 0.3V difference is the cause?
The nominal voltage of these batteries is 12V. So, 14V is plenty good enough. I doubt this is the cause.
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Old 10-23-2010, 01:03 PM   #86
///M sloWbus
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i put one of these batterys in my 2001 330ci and the piece of crap wouldn't even keep my interior lights on! everything was hooked up correctly(i have an aftermarket flipscreen dvd player and hid headlights). anyway my buddy came over and put in his optima yellow top and the car roared to life, it loved that battery..it was like someone put a defibrillator on its chest and gave it a billion jiggawatts lol. the only problem is the optima yellow tops are expensive
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Old 10-23-2010, 02:30 PM   #87
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still got my oem since 2004 .. and i push it since i have a 3000 wat sound system ... i kno im crazy!
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Old 11-24-2010, 12:23 PM   #88
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My battery just died after 9 1/2 years. Only symptom was a slow turn over one day and no start the next! So I'll add another choice for a replacement! Sam's sells the same battery as Wall Mart but with an Energizer label. It's an E94R, 912 CA, 730 CCA, 8 year warranty, $85 and is a perfect fit. I asked the salesman, what's up with all these various batteries sold under different labels and they look the same. He said they are all made by Johnson Controls. Did a little surfing and found out that Johnson Controls markets Varta batteries in Europe! Guess who makes BMW OEM batteries! So, there is a reason why Everstart, Energizer, Exide and maybe Auto Zone batteries all look alike! One thing to be careful about. These batteries come with vents in both ends. The hose vent connects on the positive end. Must remove the plug from the vent on the negative end of the OEM battery and re-install in the new battery. Otherwise you'll be venting into the trunk! Have not seen this mentioned anywhere in this forum.
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:32 AM   #89
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Originally Posted by ///M sloWbus View Post
i put one of these batterys in my 2001 330ci and the piece of crap wouldn't even keep my interior lights on! everything was hooked up correctly(i have an aftermarket flipscreen dvd player and hid headlights). anyway my buddy came over and put in his optima yellow top and the car roared to life, it loved that battery..it was like someone put a defibrillator on its chest and gave it a billion jiggawatts lol. the only problem is the optima yellow tops are expensive
The batterys are very simple. The alt voltage should be over 13.5 V and if it isn't you are either overtaxing it or it is Kaput. The battery only stores energy that the alt produces for a later use such as starting, and the occational surge. If your battery is rated adequatley for CCA (cold cranking amps) and amp hours the problem is elsewhere. Check your charging voltage.
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:03 PM   #90
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i had to buy a new battery after I had the duralast 49dl for a little over 4 years. I went to autozone, and they gave me a credit for the rest of the warranty, and plus, they gave me the price for the battery that I paid 4 years ago. Instead of $100 for a new battery, it was $37.
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Old 12-05-2010, 03:15 PM   #91
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I went to get my MIL's battery changed (not a BMW) to Advance Auto Parts, and out of curiosity, asked them if they have batteries for the 330Ci. They had a battery "94RH" with 730 CCA, and all the tubes etc., for $144 installed. (had specific install steps for the Bimmer in their system).
I know there was a lot of discussion on the Auto Zone and WalMart batteries, but has anyone tried the AAP battery? It's made by AutoCraft (Johnson), and the model number 94H suggests to me that it might be closely related to the Walmart 94 series batteries ???

EDIT: Here's a screenshot of the AAP site after searching for 330Ci batteries:

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Old 12-05-2010, 03:31 PM   #92
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I think 94 is refering to the size not the brand.
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Old 12-05-2010, 03:45 PM   #93
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You're correct - it says right there it's the Group Size
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Old 12-05-2010, 06:05 PM   #94
Vinnie Vega
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My original battery took a dump at around 8 years old. A buddy of mine had a 99 323i that he believed had a faulty battery (obviously original battery) and replaced it, later to find out that it was actually his alternator. He gave me this battery, 9 years old at the time, minus around 3-4 months of the battery being out of the car, and now its pushing 12 years still cranking strong, I'm on the original alt. too.
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Old 12-05-2010, 07:21 PM   #95
Master Po
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The Walmart battery, at a reported $77 is still the one to beat.

People, a battery is a battery. This is pretty low tech.
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:27 PM   #96
rlanzone1
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Interstate H7 is exact fit and CCA for under $ 100 with 85 month warranty. Why bother with Walmart or Duralast
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Old 12-06-2010, 11:49 PM   #97
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the one at Walmart works great. 3 year warranty.
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I can honestly say that because of Griffin, i am desensitized to alot of wierd stuff!
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Old 12-07-2010, 11:50 PM   #98
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Interstate H7 is exact fit and CCA for under $ 100 with 85 month warranty. Why bother with Walmart or Duralast
Because it costs less?
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:50 PM   #99
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I got the walmart battery nine months ago works great! My car died at 10pm and had to take the wife's car and pick on up there since there open 24/7. No problems... a battery is a battery!
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Old 12-08-2010, 10:56 PM   #100
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where can you get the venting tube if it the battery doesn't come with it?
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