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Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > E46 Convertible

E46 Convertible
The E46 vert forum. Talk about dropping your E46 top here.

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Old 09-27-2012, 01:40 PM   #21
taylor192
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If you're low on hydraulic fluid you have a leak, find it before it ruins your top (if the bow cylinders are leaking).

If you need help removing the trunk lining, you should probably have a shop perform this repair. Its held in by a couple plastic rivets that you can easily see. After removing those, just pull it out.
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:57 AM   #22
klixtokw
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Removing trunk liner

Quote:
Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
If you're low on hydraulic fluid you have a leak, find it before it ruins your top (if the bow cylinders are leaking).

If you need help removing the trunk lining, you should probably have a shop perform this repair. Its held in by a couple plastic rivets that you can easily see. After removing those, just pull it out.
It is not as easy as just "pull it out". You basically have to RIP it out w/o breaking it. And this includes bending the hard part (against our common sense) w/o damaging so you can get it out from under the other linings.

I went to a body shop and ask the guys there to tell me how to do this and this guy went into my trunk and in front of my eyes RIPPED this lining out in two seconds. FREE!
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:59 AM   #23
klixtokw
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low fluid

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Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
If you're low on hydraulic fluid you have a leak, find it before it ruins your top (if the bow cylinders are leaking).

If you need help removing the trunk lining, you should probably have a shop perform this repair. Its held in by a couple plastic rivets that you can easily see. After removing those, just pull it out.
Is it not possible for some to evaporate after the years??
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:43 AM   #24
raxs
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Hi Guys

I seem to have the same issue, the roof lifts about 2-3inches but not any further, checked the canister in the boot, and seen the underside curcuit board look like water has entered there bit brown also gets very hot, has anyone else seen this before i shell out for the part?

thx for you help
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:31 AM   #25
taylor192
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Originally Posted by raxs View Post
Hi Guys

I seem to have the same issue, the roof lifts about 2-3inches but not any further, checked the canister in the boot, and seen the underside curcuit board look like water has entered there bit brown also gets very hot, has anyone else seen this before i shell out for the part?

thx for you help
The roof stopping in that position is usually a broken wire near the front of the roof. Check the electrical troubleshooting sticky at the top of the forum.
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Old 06-17-2013, 11:55 AM   #26
raxs
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Hi Taylor
thanks for the reply, i will have another look at the wire at the front, appreciate the response.
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:14 AM   #27
raxs
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E46 convertible roof issues

Hi Guys,

Found i need to replace the hydraulic pump bmw part (8234530) motor in the boot(trunk), does anyone have instructions /procedures required to do this, or is it a simple procedure of exchange?


the hydraulic pumps lower cuircuit board is burnt out, looks like water got into this area, may be a leak around the trim of the trunk.

Crazy that this part is exposed!

thanks
raxs
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:30 AM   #28
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It's very easy. The hydraulic pump is on the left side (towards the rear seat) of the trunk. Hidden behind the lining.

Once you see the pump, you will know if you can fix it or not. Sorry no pics. Also, you will need the hydraulic fluid. I got it from the Mercedes dealer. Don't recall the name of the fluid, but google should help.

I regret not doing mine myself. But I wasn't 100% sure it was the hydraulic pump that was bad and didn't want to get stuck with a $1000 part. I just had the shop do it. But almost paid $500 more than What I could have done it myself.
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:49 AM   #29
taylor192
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Re: 2003 E46 318 convertible roof issues

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Originally Posted by raxs View Post
Hi Guys,

Found i need to replace the hydraulic pump bmw part (8234530) motor in the boot(trunk), does anyone have instructions /procedures required to do this, or is it a simple procedure of exchange?


the hydraulic pumps lower cuircuit board is burnt out, looks like water got into this area, may be a leak around the trim of the trunk.

Crazy that this part is exposed!

thanks
raxs
Read the sticky about hydraulics, I cover how to get at the pump and remove the lines. Klaus has covered the options for fluid several times, search to find his posts.

Water shouldn't get in your trunk. There's lots of other modules in the trunk that can get ruined from water too. Fix that first.

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Last edited by taylor192; 08-07-2013 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 08-07-2013, 03:25 PM   #30
raxs
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E46 roof issues

Guys,

Would like say thanks for the post, mps thanks for the heads up on fliud and taylor192 notes are so well documented easy to follow, i will replace this over the weekend (hopefully will be sunny in england). The unit i have has fluid already in cylinder. so i should be able to swap the unit in and out quickly and test, will feedback my results,

but thanks again guys
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:16 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raxs View Post
Guys,

Would like say thanks for the post, mps thanks for the heads up on fliud and taylor192 notes are so well documented easy to follow, i will replace this over the weekend (hopefully will be sunny in england). The unit i have has fluid already in cylinder. so i should be able to swap the unit in and out quickly and test, will feedback my results,

but thanks again guys
Please drain and refill the fluid, don't trust the fluid in the pump is good. It is cheap protection to ensure nothing contaminates the system.

Good luck, hopefully it works!
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:34 AM   #32
raxs
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Guys,

Thanks again, fixed the roof works better than before!!!
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:43 AM   #33
huskyrossy
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the last few weeks ive had this red flashing light problem with no movement what so ever.
stripped all the panels down to check wiring etc and not found anything. i then decided to take it to an indy which cost 40 plus vat for diagnostic. i would recommened this as you probably wont diagnose a failed sensor yourself.
if it flashes red, then there is a short, so either a wire is broken or sensor down.
amber light is to do with the storage compartment in the boot, if it is pushed flat it means the soft top cant store anywhere so will stop it from opening, make sure this compartment is down and if still is an amber light, then prob the sensor in that storage is failing.

anyway, it was diagnosed with a sensor down, located on the nearside lid, which opens vertically for the hood to drop into. its basicsally the catch which holds the lid shut whether open roof or closed.
it has a plated sleeve on the catch mechanism with a sensor , and plugs into a connector underneath the top interior panel on the rear passenger side (very close to the small passenger window)

i bought a second hand catch with plastic sleeve cover and sensor for 20, but on ebay around 25-30, i manually put the hood down and opened the lid, and replaced the plastic cover sensor onto my existing catch, (easier to replace sensor alone, rather than the whole catch, trust me), i then connected it up and resynced it by hold the close button and hold it whilst turning the ignition to position one, keep hold until it shuts the lid and then performs the fully closed function.
all working in original order.

also, i noticed that my rear window demister was not working during my failed sensor, apparently it will only demist and work if there is no short circuit or failed sensor.
so if a motor has broken then im assuming the demister will still work. just thought id mention this as now my roof is fixed, my rear window demister is working again.
hope this helps
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Old 06-07-2014, 01:08 PM   #34
TheMagicalHindu
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Fluid reservoir is only supposed to be half way when I have the top all the way open?
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Old 06-07-2014, 02:34 PM   #35
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Fluid reservoir is only supposed to be half way when I have the top all the way open?
No. When the top is open all the fluid is returned to the pump, so the pump should be full to the indicator.


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Old 06-14-2014, 12:23 PM   #36
TopHydraulicsInc.com
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMagicalHindu View Post
Fluid reservoir is only supposed to be half way when I have the top all the way open?
Quote:
Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
No. When the top is open all the fluid is returned to the pump, so the pump should be full to the indicator.
TheMagicalHindu, if your fluid level is NOT full to the indicator with the top down, then you have a leak somewhere. If you have a low fluid level, then you should try to find the leak before things get worse.

To refill the pump, use FeBi 02615 or Mercedes p/n 0009899103 (aka A000989910310). These fluids are basically identical to BMW fluid. FeBi 02615 is used for some power steerings - don't let that deter you from buying it online. It can be had for as little as $10/quart plus shipping. For example: http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._D18BD03A.aspx.

The fill plug is a metric Allen bolt. It is the one closest to the level marker on the reservoir. Make sure to have a fitting Allen wrench, so that you do not strip the inside hex of the plug.

I will list the most likely places for leaks below, more or less in order of likelihood:

1) Hydraulic cylinders:
Bow Tension Cylinders: p/n 54347025599 (left side) and 54347025600 (right side) - they lift the rear portion of the top. If they leak, then you will eventually find fluid dripping onto the vinyl of the storage cover.
Tonneau Cover Cylinders: p/n 54348236956 (right side) and 54348243269 (left side) - they lift the storage cover. They are located in the trunk area. You would find them moist underneath if they were leaking.
Main lift cylinders: p/n 54347025593 (left and right) - they lift the main part of the soft top. Fluid would eventually be dripping out in front of the rear tire if they were leaking.
If you see ANY of these cylinders leaking, then it would be wise to have them ALL upgraded by Top Hydraulics at the same time. The original seals in these cylinders are all made of the same material, and it decays with time. Top Hydraulics' rebuilds make them better than brand new at a fraction of dealer price.

2) Hydraulic lines:
We have seen pretty much any hydraulic line on E46 verts fail for various reasons, and we offer replacements for all of them. The most common failure is a leak of lines 23 or 24 (going from the Hydraulic Valve Block aka Control Unit BMW p/n 54347025592 to the right main lift cylinder), on account of faulty installation. Lines 23 and 24 will typically spray near the valve block, right behind the left door. p/n 54347025598; see http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=976708 for more details.

3) Hydraulic pump aka hydro unit p/n 8 234 530 or 54347025595 or HB70346-002
Some of these pumps have external leaks (you may find the foam casing soaked in hydraulic fluid). The most common source for external leaks on these pumps are the port seals. Port seals are tiny seals of special shape that are sealing the hydraulic lines when they are plugged into the pump. The port seals are behind brass bushings. These bushings are pressed into the pump housing, and they are made to 1/100 mm precision. Any DIY repair attempt would destroy the bushings. Top Hydraulics replaces the original port seals with an improved version made of Viton, which has practically unlimited shelf life. Before assuming that the pump is leaking externally, check the hydraulic lines going into the pump to make sure they are dry.
(Edit - another comment about hydraulic pumps that need rebuild: The most common failure symptom on used BMW E46 hydro units is a gradual loss of pressure and power. There are various possible reasons for gradual power loss inside the pump/hydro units, ranging from degrading electric motors through pump pistons wearing out and check valves bypassing, to pressure regulators failing. Top Hydraulics will check that all these components meet or exceed factory specs and exchange or upgrade them if necessary. Bench testing includes all valve functions, pressure test, flow test, extended load test, and test for leaks, to make sure that factory specs are exceeded before the pump ships back. Beware when purchasing used pumps that those may actually be units that are still pumping, but are not able to complete the convertible top's opening or closing cycle without manual assistance.)

4) Hydraulic valve block
The hydraulic valve block (aka control unit p/n 54347025598) is located behind the left door. Leaks from this unit are massive once they occur. You will normally see the top slowing down significantly even with full reservoir and a good pump before the valve block actually leaks externally. The failure mechanism causes internal leaks in the valve block first.

Location diagram:


Links:
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/e46bowcylinders.pdf (tension bar cylinder removal)
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/e46storagecylinders.pdf (tonneau cover cylinder removal)
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/e46m...tcylinders.pdf (main lift cylinder removal)
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/e46line23guide.pdf (line replacement)

http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/56-bmw-e46
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/b...6-chassis.html
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/b...ulic-pump.html
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/b...trol-unit.html

Klaus

www.tophydraulicsinc.com
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Some BMW E46 hydraulic cylinders, pumps, and valves that we rebuild and upgrade at Top Hydraulics:
54347025593
54347025600
54347025599
54348236956
54348243269
543454347025595 (hydro-unit, sticker p/n is 8234530)
54347025592 (control unit)
54347025598 (improved hoses manufactured at Top Hydraulics)
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/56-bmw-e46
www.tophydraulicsinc.com


Last edited by TopHydraulicsInc.com; 06-14-2014 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 01-12-2016, 03:05 PM   #37
Thymeg
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Top wont open post new airbag install

Hi guys,

Appreciate all insight...My 2004 325ci top was working fine...now, when I press open, I see the orange light solid. I dont hear the motor running, Ive checked the fuses...Perhaps it's the hydro fluid? If so, how do I remove the device, seen in the pic attached?
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:34 AM   #38
taylor192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thymeg View Post
Hi guys,

Appreciate all insight...My 2004 325ci top was working fine...now, when I press open, I see the orange light solid. I dont hear the motor running, Ive checked the fuses...Perhaps it's the hydro fluid? If so, how do I remove the device, seen in the pic attached?
Start here
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Old 02-28-2016, 11:23 AM   #39
Mike.ellingson
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I had a hydraulic cylinder start to leak and I lost most of the hydraulic fluid. I pulled the cylinder out and had it rebuilt by Top Hydraulics(saved a ton over buying a new one). I refilled the fluid reservoir replaced the cylinder and reconnected everything. I tried to raise the top and it only when part way. I was expecting this, due to air in the lines. After a little back and forth, I manually assisted the operation and the top went completely up. However, after several attempts, I still have the issue with the top starting to work and then stopping. I know that there is hydraulic fluid in the pump. How many times will I have to attempt to lower the top before the air is bled out?
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Old 02-28-2016, 12:21 PM   #40
taylor192
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Just a few, if you're at several then likely something else is wrong.
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