Hey, I need some help if I can get some. I have a 99' BMW 323i.
And, here is the problem: When I turn it on in the morning or whenever it's off more than 2 hours, doesn't have to be in the morning; it will shake and theres a popping/cracking noise under the hood somewhere. Can't figure it out.
It think it's a misfire, because it accelerates on its own a little bit when in Park.
However, here's another thing: When I'm at a stop light, or slow traffic, it will begun to rough idle and it won't perform as expected. When I release the brake, and press on the gas, there is no power. The pedal is all the way down, and it only goes to 20 MPH. Which is weird. Now, this happens every other day..
Sometimes, it runs smooth, and sometimes this happens: which what I said above.
I replaced the O2 sensors, but I don't know what I can do to fix it...Please Help!!!:woot::tsk::yikes:
Might I suggest you check the lower intake hose connections as well as examine them to see if they have any tears or cracks. Just my two and a half cents worth...
I just bought a 1999 323i bimmer and I'm having nothing but problems.
I have the same issue as the OP, when I start my car after its been off for a while it shakes 5-10 times more than normal.
I give it gas and have no power. Car jerks and the problem seems to go away if I turn off my car and start it back up a few times.
Other problem I notice is that my car wont do donuts. I rev my engine, pop it in first gear, and my car sounds like its about to break so I quickly hit the clutch pedal. Anyone know whats the problem? I should be able to do donuts no problem in a bimmer!
Other issues my car has is the driver side Halo lights don't work properly, my instrument cluster buttons don't work. I can't set the clock or reset the trip odometer.
Also my car seems to be loud but I'm not sure if its suppose to natural sound that way or not.
I just ordered a Service Manual for my car to help me figure some of my issues out.
IF anyone knows any solutions to my problems, I will be grateful!!!!
Other problem I notice is that my car wont do donuts. I rev my engine, pop it in first gear, and my car sounds like its about to break so I quickly hit the clutch pedal. Anyone know whats the problem? I should be able to do donuts no problem in a bimmer!
PML!!! I would get in touch with BMW and tell them their cars don't meet with your expectations. As for the "problem"? They'll probably point you to the nut behind the steering wheel.
If you haven't changed spark plugs yet, I suggest you do so. Could be running on 4 or 5 cylinders right now. Had a similar problem a couple months back. Are you throwing any codes? I would check them regardless.
I checked the plugs, they look ok. What i did was disconnect each plug while the rest are still connected and the car running. Each time I did it, my RPMs would slightly change and my car's idle was a little rougher which tells me all my plugs are working.
I've got 2 codes coming up, 1188 and 1189 come up.
Also my check oil light comes on and shuts off shortly after I start my car.
I checked the plugs, they look ok. What i did was disconnect each plug while the rest are still connected and the car running. Each time I did it, my RPMs would slightly change and my car's idle was a little rougher which tells me all my plugs are working.
I've got 2 codes coming up, 1188 and 1189 come up.
Also my check oil light comes on and shuts off shortly after I start my car.
Those codes can be a number of things related to anything from o2 sensors (but not likely) to plugs, MAF, air leak in the boots, etc. I would check everything that applies.
i have a 2001 330ci, my car doesnt throw a check engine light...i have a serious loss of power..in fact it takes forever to accelerate. in park the car revs normal, sometimes it idles weird, but i cant accelerate at all. i feel like its driving like a grandma would, while im pressing the gas to the floor. doesnt make any since. i feel like it might be my catalytic convertor? maybe its bad? i recently found a leak in the throttle body hose, but i fixed that and its still driving horrible. today i was driving and i went to gas it and the RPMs took forever to get up, and my car wasnt accelerating at all! still no codes here! i dont know what it could possibly be! any help? anyone experienced this before?
Hey i have the same problems. Did you ever find out what was the problem? I have no codes or check engine light, but my car has a major power lost in acceleration.
has anyone found the solution to this problem, a lot of people say wats wrong but has anybody solved this, i can find the solution anywhere and i really dont want to buy the throttle body!
You might only have to replace a oil-weakened and broken hose that goes from the oil separator (a.k.a CVV) down to the dipstick tube. It was the only thing wrong with my 2000 323i with P1188 and P1189 codes.
You'll find details and pictures on where to locate the hose here:
You also mentioned no power at some points. If the check engine light comes on and it loses all power, it has probably gone into "limp home mode". In my case, LHMode was caused by a sticky idle control valve, which can be cleaned with brake fluid cleaner (best to remove it from car first--look for diy). (BTW, I could get out of the LHMode by turning the car off and restarting it... until the valve stuck again... but it might get you home safely.)
How many miles do you currently have and when was the last time you replaced your pre-cat oxygen sensors? They should be changed every 100,000 miles...
I have 152K now. I bought car with 118K. I didnt replace O2 sensors. Dont know if previous owner did that. But wouldnt i get codes for O2 sensors instead of these lean codes. Also could DISA valve be the problem? I dont know if i still have original DISA.
When I do a simple search concerning these two codes I get the following: P1188 - Oxygen Sensor Heater High Resistance Upstream
P1189 - Oxygen Sensor Heater Type 1 Low Resistance Upstream. Which indicate a possibility of O2 sensors needing replacement.
No, not off the top of my dome, I'll poke around and do some research... O2 sensors are inexpressive replacement parts that should be done at 100k without exception. Simple search produced the following results: Automotive Oxygen Sensor Testing
By Mandy Concepcion
The O2 sensor measures the oxygen content of the exhaust. The O2 sensor***8217;s sensing ability comes about by producing a small voltage proportionate to the exhaust oxygen content. In other words, if the oxygen content is low it produces a high voltage (0.90 Volts - Rich mixture) and if the oxygen content is high it produces a low voltage (0.10 Volts - Lean mixture). Although theoretically the O2 sensor should cycle between 0.00 volts and 1.00 volts, in reality it cycles between 0.10 volts and 0.90 volts.
A GM O2 sensor signal stuck at 450 mV is an indication of an open O2 sensor circuit (signal wire) or faulty O2 signal ground. The 450 mV value (GM) is called a bias voltage and it is not the same for all manufacturers. Some manufacturers employ a dedicated O2 sensor ground. Such a ground lead is attached to the engine block or chassis and feeds an ECM O2 ground pin only. The O2 circuit is then grounded through the inside of the ECM electronic board by this ground wire. A loss of this ground would also put the O2 sensor signal at around 450 mV, which also makes it look like an open circuit. The same holds true for Chrysler, but these use a different O2 bias voltage, which is usually 2.00 to 4.00 volts
1) A few key issues are very important in the analysis of O2 sensor signals. 2) An O2 sensor will cycle between 0.10 to 0.90 or almost 1 volt. 3) An O2 sensor has to reach the 0.8x Volts amplitude mark while at full operation. 4) An O2 sensor also has to reach the 0.1x Volts amplitude mark while at full operation. 5) Full operation means the engine is fully warmed up, O2 sensor above the 600 deg. F. operating temperature, and no fuel or mechanical problems present. 6) The O2 sensor must cycle at least once per second, which would show 3 cross counts on the scan tool PID. 7) Silicone is the leading cause of O2 contamination. 8) It is easier for an O2 sensor to go from rich to lean than vise-versa. 9) O2 sensors tend to fail on rich bias. In other words, they tend to shift their cycling to the upper side or rich side of the voltage scale. 10) Contrary to what many people think, an O2 sensor WILL NOT cycle by itself. The O2 sensor cycle is a direct result of the ECM response to the changes in the mixture. 11) Any time the O2 cycles and crosses the 0.450 volts mark, the system is in CLOSE-LOOP. 12) Even though an O2 sensor is cycling and crossing 0.450 volts (ECM in close loop) it DOES NOT mean that it is working properly. 13) O2 sensor operation is extremely important not only to keep HC & CO emissions low but also to the *** as well. 14) Proper O2 sensor cycling will determine the catalytic converter***8217;s efficiency. The catalytic converter needs the O2 sensor cycling at its proper amplitude and frequency for it to function at its maximum efficiency. 15) An O2 sensor with a high voltage reading does not necessarily mean that the mixture is rich or high in fuel content. An EGR valve problem will send the O2 signal high as well.
The O2 sensor measures the oxygen content of the exhaust. The O2 sensor***8217;s sensing ability comes about by producing a small voltage proportionate to the exhaust oxygen content. In other words, if the oxygen content is low it produces a high voltage (0.90 Volts - Rich mixture) and if the oxygen content is high it produces a low voltage (0.10 Volts - Lean mixture). Although theoretically the O2 sensor should cycle between 0.00 volts and 1.00 volts, in reality it cycles between 0.10 volts and 0.90 volts.
A GM O2 sensor signal stuck at 450 mV is an indication of an open O2 sensor circuit (signal wire) or faulty O2 signal ground. The 450 mV value (GM) is called a bias voltage and it is not the same for all manufacturers. Some manufacturers employ a dedicated O2 sensor ground. Such a ground lead is attached to the engine block or chassis and feeds an ECM O2 ground pin only. The O2 circuit is then grounded through the inside of the ECM electronic board by this ground wire. A loss of this ground would also put the O2 sensor signal at around 450 mV, which also makes it look like an open circuit. The same holds true for Chrysler, but these use a different O2 bias voltage, which is usually 2.00 to 4.00 volts
1) A few key issues are very important in the analysis of O2 sensor signals. 2) An O2 sensor will cycle between 0.10 to 0.90 or almost 1 volt. 3) An O2 sensor has to reach the 0.8x Volts amplitude mark while at full operation. 4) An O2 sensor also has to reach the 0.1x Volts amplitude mark while at full operation. 5) Full operation means the engine is fully warmed up, O2 sensor above the 600 deg. F. operating temperature, and no fuel or mechanical problems present. 6) The O2 sensor must cycle at least once per second, which would show 3 cross counts on the scan tool PID. 7) Silicone is the leading cause of O2 contamination. 8) It is easier for an O2 sensor to go from rich to lean than vise-versa. 9) O2 sensors tend to fail on rich bias. In other words, they tend to shift their cycling to the upper side or rich side of the voltage scale. 10) Contrary to what many people think, an O2 sensor WILL NOT cycle by itself. The O2 sensor cycle is a direct result of the ECM response to the changes in the mixture. 11) Any time the O2 cycles and crosses the 0.450 volts mark, the system is in CLOSE-LOOP. 12) Even though an O2 sensor is cycling and crossing 0.450 volts (ECM in close loop) it DOES NOT mean that it is working properly. 13) O2 sensor operation is extremely important not only to keep HC & CO emissions low but also to the *** as well. 14) Proper O2 sensor cycling will determine the catalytic converter***8217;s efficiency. The catalytic converter needs the O2 sensor cycling at its proper amplitude and frequency for it to function at its maximum efficiency. 15) An O2 sensor with a high voltage reading does not necessarily mean that the mixture is rich or high in fuel content. An EGR valve problem will send the O2 signal high as well.
323ifever,
the popping you hear is the intake manifold - when your car is running lean, (correct me if im wrong) detonations will occur in ur manifold.
Need some help with solving a CEL. Came on about 4 months agowith a 1189 code after I did not put on the gas cap correctly. Reset using my ODB II and all has been fine until recently. Check the gas cap and seemed ok so reset again. This time came up with 1188 and 1189 after about 50 miles. I reset again and the light came on again after abou 10 miles with 1189 only. I did a frame freeze dump and have the following info.
Error Code: P1189
Possible Causes:
Freeze Frame Information:
1. DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored - P1189.
2. Fuel System 1 Status - Closed Loop.
3. Fuel System 2 Status - Closed Loop.
4. Calculated LOAD Value - 10.20 %.
5. Engine Coolant Temp - 199.40 °F.
6. Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 - 15.63 %.
7. Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 - 8.59 %.
8. Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 - 13.28 %.
9. Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 - 10.16 %.
10. Engine RPM - 2,349.00 Rpm.
11. Vehicle Speed Sensor - 22.99 Mph.
Monitor Information:
1. MIL - ON.
2. Misfire Monitor - Complete.
3. Fuel System Monitor - Complete.
4. CCM Monitor - Complete.
5. Catalyst Monitor - Not Complete.
6. Heated Catalyst Monitor - Not Supported.
7. EVAP Monitor - Complete.
8. Secondary Air System Monitor - Complete.
9. O2 Sensor Monitor - Complete.
10. O2 Sensor Heater Monitor - Complete.
11. EGR Monitor - Not Supported.
12. NMHC Monitor - Not Supported.
13. *** Adsorber Monitor - Not Supported.
14. Boost Pressure System Monitor - Not Supported.
15. Exhaust Gas Sensor Monitor - Not Supported.
16. PM Filter Monitor - Not Supported.
I do have a slight rocker gasket oil leak - could this be the culprit? and could the gas cap also cause this problem? I am not experiencing any performance problems or gas mileage problems - it is just a pain having the light on, and I really DO NOT want to take this into the dealer to solve...I had enough problems with them trying to fix a headlamp flicker problem - a simple grounding issue (they wanted to replace both LCM's at a total cost of >$2k!!!)
Ideas and any help would be appreciated on this one..
Avglushk,
You post alot in other people's threads about your problem to everyone, not everyone's problem for codes isthe same. There is numerous possibilities.
Get a fuel pressure test and a smoke test.
Or your going to waste a lot of money in the long run if you go off of other people's expeiences.
Refer to past problems to find a connection, or a stand out symptom to further diagnose with specific tests. These forums are good for reference and direction.
These guys help out with the checks you can do on your own , like finding a hole in your lower boot, but I can guarantee no one on this forum can read about a problem and 100% nail the problem and fix without proper tests.
You have already thrown parts at your car, (ccv and all hoses) (200$)not to say it's not good preventative maintenance, because it is.
You could keep doing your stratedgy and you will spend more on parts and time, then you would by getting a proper diagnoses.
Just look at those threads were guys list off thousands of dollars in parts they have tried over months and months of banging there heads against the wall, they all end up taking it in for better diagnoses.
Say this guy solves his problem with a fuel pump being the issue, then you go and buy a pump, replace it, find out it doesnt fix the problems. Instead... You should spend 50-80$ on a smoke test and fuel pressure test specifically , and you find out you have a leaking/broken hose. You replace it for 10$ yourself.
well... dude from firestone just called me. He said they did smoke test. No leaks. WTF. :banghead: He said he's gonna call some technician and see what else could it be. I'll post update after he calls me again.
Avglushk,
You might feel bad that you couldn't find A vaccum leak, but don't be discouraged, you now ruled out 75% of the possible parts being the issue.
You can no move your thoughts over to fuel delivery. (fuel filter,fuel pump,fuel pressure regulator)
Have you ever changed your fuel filter? I would regardless if it is the issue anyways, you can find them online for 10-20$. It's general maintenance and your car is going to love It.
What are all your exact codes again?
And when's the last time your plugs were changed, have u pulled them and taken a look?
No offense but, why did you bring it to Firestone??? Chances are they aren't going to find anything! Please keep us updated on what they find.
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