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DIY: CCV, DISA, ICV, Oil Separator. STEP BY STEP - PICTURES

319K views 223 replies 123 participants last post by  Arcsaber 
#1 · (Edited)
This is a DIY an other member (Elbert) put together and I assisted with by email last year. Seeing how there are many issues with the OS due to the cold weather I thought I would post the DIY here for everyone to use. He is on bimmerfest.com and I am here on e46fanatics.com so we're trying to help everyone out.

Hope this help some people save money in these tough times.




DIY removal of the:
***8226; Oil Separator Valve (also known as: Pressure Regulating Valve, or Crankcase Ventilation Valve ***8211;CCV, PVC valve)
***8226; Idle Control Valve (ICV)
***8226; Intake Manifold Resonance Valve (also known as DISA Valve)

This is a journal of the work I did on my car-a 2001 BMW 325i E46 sedan, auto transmission. To the best of my recollection, the following tools, parts, and procedures are what I used in working on my car. Your particular car model might differ.

Tools
***8226; T-40 & T-25 Torx
***8226; 6mm, 10mm, & 13mm sockets
***8226; Ratchet ***8211;1/4***8221;
***8226; Extension bars, various lengths ***8211; 1/4***8221;
***8226; Universal joint ***8211; 1/4***8221;
***8226; Throttle body cleaner
***8226; Mirror
***8226; Long screw driver
***8226; Magnetic pick up tool (you***8217;re a bound to drop something)
***8226; Small blade knife
***8226; Optional (nice to have but not absolutely necessary)
o 6 mm reversible ratchet wrench ***8211; For less than $10.00, this will pay for itself to facilitate removal of the hard to access lower air intake boot clamps
o Assembly lube
o Electrical connector cleaner and dielectric lubricant
o Hose cutter, i.e. PVC pipe cutter

Shopping List
***8226; 11617501566 Oil Separator 1 47.95
***8226; 11611432559 Oil Separator Hose to Valve Cover 1 22.97
***8226; 11157532629 Oil Separator Oil Dip Stick hose 1 8.48
***8226; 11617504535 Oil Separator Connecting Hose 1 32.90
***8226; 11617504536 Return Pipe from Connecting Hose 1 31.49
***8226; 13541435627 Air Intake Boot; Lower 1 12.43
***8226; 11431740045 O-Ring Oil Dip Stick Tube to Oil Pan 1 0.70
***8226; 11611716174 Throttle Housing Gasket 1 4.92



***8226; If your funds are low, and considering how unreasonably expensive these hoses are, try removing the Return Pipe from Connecting Hose without breaking it. If you are successful and decide to reuse, flush clean inside of hose with throttle body cleaner and blow air through the hose to make sure it is clear of any blockage




Helpful suggestions

***8226; It is best to order all 4 plastic related oil separator hoses. These plastic hoses get brittle with age. The older the car, the greater the likelihood the connector/hose will break during removal. These connectors are easy to connect but could also be a challenge to disconnect due to seizing and the restricted working area. Another benefit of having the parts is you can practice how they connect/disconnect to each other. In addition, to facilitate removal, it is sometimes better to cut the hose or the connector
***8226; Either drive the front wheels on a ramp or raise the front wheels. This working position is easier because the access to the work area is more convenient than stooping low. In addition, you may need to access the car from underneath, although I did not have to this. I just like the car being higher; it is easier on my back
***8226; Unlike the upper air intake boot, the lower air intake boot will likely need replacement. The small elbow tube of the lower air intake boot is susceptible to splitting.
***8226; Although the wiring harness connectors are keyed to prevent cross connection, it is good practice to place a label on the connector and the unit that it attaches to. Also, count the number of wiring harnesses you are disconnecting. It is easy to miss a connector during installation.
***8226; The wiring harness connectors have a metal locking wire clip that is pushed down and pulled to disconnect. To re-install, hold connector without touching metal clip and insert connector until you hear it click.
***8226; It also a good practice to label all screws and bolts, replace to its location, or tape it to the removed part. The more diligent you are in doing this, the smoother your installation process will be.
***8226; Take several digital pictures as you go along during removal to serve as reference during installation just in case you forget how things go.
***8226; Lubricate the ports of the new hoses with assembly lube to ease assembly
***8226; Clean all electrical connectors with electrical cleaner and use dielectric lubricant.
***8226; Check the condition of surrounding vacuum lines and hoses while you are there





It is best to REMOVE the following parts in the order given. Underneath each heading are the fasteners and instructions for removal of the part.


1. Micro-filter housing assembly. Photo 1
a. Micro filter cover - 3 half-turn clips
b. Micro filter
c. Cable harness cover - lift clips to open
d. Micro filter housing base - 4 T-25 torx screws, location is underneath the micro filter and towards the firewall


2. Fuel rail cover. Photo 1
a. 2 plastic caps
b. 2 10mm bolts underneath plastic caps



3. Front air duct. Photo 1
a. 3 plastic expanding fasteners. Raise middle pin and pull out expanding fastener


4. Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) Photo 1
a. Disconnect wiring harness to MAF sensor
b. Loosen hose clamp between MAF and upper air intake boot
c. Leave MAF connected to the air filter box


5. Air filter box assembly. Photo 1
a. Detach wiring harness behind air filter box
b. Remove 2 10mm bolts on air box base
c. Remove both air filter box and MAF as a unit


6. Air intake boot -upper. Photo 1
a. Loosen hose clamp
b. Disconnect vent hose coming off the top of the upper air intake boot or leave it connected and just lay the upper air intake boot on top of the intake manifold


7. Middle boot connector
a. Loosen hose clamp


8. Oil dipstick guide tube
a. Detach or slice off hose from the dipstick to the oil separator
b. Unhook wiring and vacuum lines from oil dipstick guide tube
c. Remove 13mm bolt holding oil dip stick bracket
d. Clean surrounding area and base prior to pulling dipstick assembly off. Replace o-ring at its base. No oil catch pan required as long as the oil pan is not overfilled
e. Insert a plug on the hole to prevent anything from falling in
f. Clean passage way of guide tube going to the oil separator with a thin piece of metal such as a clothes hanger wire and spray clean with throttle body cleaner



9. Heat shield. Photo 1
a. 2 quarter-turn twist fasteners
b. Move hose and weather strip out of the way, and lift heat shield



10. Lower air intake boot. Photo 2 & 4a
a. Before removing this boot, with the aid of a small mirror, notice this part has large rubber tab at its base. This tab aligns between 2 raised guidelines located on the outside bottom of the throttle body port. Align the tab when installing the new boot
b. 2 hose clamps ***8211; 1 clamp for the throttle body port and the other for the Idle Control Valve port


11. Intake Manifold Resonance Valve, also known as DISA Valve. Photo 3
a. Disconnect wire harness
b. 2 T-40 Torx screws
c. Spray clean the inside flaps


12. Wire harness box, Photo 3 & 5
a. 3 10mm nuts. One of the nuts is located at bottom right of the throttle body, next to one of the throttle body bolts. You will need a mirror as an aid to view location
b. Remove additional electrical connectors, not all, so you can move the wiring housing aside


13. Fuel Tank Venting/Breather Valve and mount bracket. Photo 5
a. Disconnect wire harness
b. Slide out fuel tank venting valve from mounting bracket. There is no need to remove connecting hose


14. Fuel Tank Venting/Breather Valve mount bracket. Photo 5
a. Remove 2 T-25 mount bracket screws


15. Idle Control Valve ICV. Photo 5
a. Disconnect wire harness
b. 2 T-40 screws
c. The other port end of the ICV is held via friction to a rubber grommet - pull out ICV to remove. Clean rubber grommet and lightly coat with assembly lube. Spray valve ports clean with throttle body cleaner


16. Throttle Body. Photo 4a
a. Disconnect wire harness
b. 4 10mm bolts ***8211; outside corners
c. Clean ports and butterfly plate with throttle body cleaner


17. Return Hose - Photo 6 & 7
a. The connector that is close to the firewall is difficult to remove due to very restrictive space. Insert a screwdriver between the fuel rail and locking ring to pinch ring and coming from the opposite position press the other side of locking ring with your finger and pull out hose. Another option is to cut locking ring off with a blade. Without the locking ring, pull connector out.
b. Remove other end of connector that is attached to the connecting hose


18. Oil Separator Hose to Valve Cover. Photo 7
a. Notice 90 deg elbow of this hose goes to the valve cover and the other end goes to oil separator
b. Squeeze locking ring and pull out. If the lower connector is difficult to remove, cut hose and leave connector attached to the oil separator


19. Oil Separator Connecting Hose. Photo 6 & 7
a. Unlike the other hose connectors, the connector going to oil separator does not use a locking ring. Curl the flex hose to get clearance if necessary and turn connector about 50 degrees or slightly over ¼ turn counter-clockwise until it stops. Then pull out hose to disconnect


20. Oil separator. Photo 8
a. 2 T-25 screws
b. Important: One of the ports has a rubber plug. Remove rubber plug and transfer rubber plug to the new oil separator. If your car has a hose attached, ignore.




Installation tips

1. It is best to re-install the parts in reverse order given
2. Fasten the oil separator first to the engine, then insert the connecting hose through the intake passage way. Important: Tug the hose to make sure you have it on securely. Also get a visual confirmation you have it attached properly; use a mirror if you have to
3. Position air intake hose clamp nuts for easier access for future projects
4. Pre-install oil separator oil dipstick hose to dipstick guide tube before assembly
5. Insert the oil dipstick o-ring onto the base of the guide tube before installation. Before fully inserting the guide tube to the engine port, tuck in the o-ring into the chamber and fully seat the guide tube



This job has a high level of difficulty. Some have rated it as a 7-8 based on oil change as level 1 and engine rebuild as level 10. Do allocate at least 5 - 7 hours of work depending on your level of proficiency. Hopefully the instruction above brings the level of difficulty down by one and shave off an hour or two off the project.
 

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#66 · (Edited)
this is an awesome DIY write up. Very informative and easy to follow. Kudos for your work. Did anyone have any problems with the dipstick tube being stuck. I can't seem to get it out without it bending. I see that there is some corrosion at the base from all the salt on the roads. Any suggestions? I dont want to go bending it too much for fear it will either break or crack and cause more problems.

Also....can someone explain how to unlock the throttle body electrical connection? I cant seem to figure this one out and I don't want to pry on a tab too hard and risk breaking it. it seems like all the plastic parts are a little brittle on my car. i guess that's what 10 year will do.
 
#69 ·
...This diy isn't for the faint of heart, lots of patience is needed for this one.
+1 Not for the faint of heart! Just did mine this past weekend and I spent a total of 12hrs replacing the Oil Separator and Oil Filter Housing Gasket. Wore me out, but it feels good to accomplish this long diy project. Thanks to the OP and everyone that added comments. :thumbsup:
 
#74 ·
FVCK! I was almost loosing patience.... it finally came out but I was hoping and praying there were nothing to break when pulling like a gorilla on steroids.
I put a very tiny droplet of engine oil before reinstalling, went in nice and smooth.
My car should be top shape by tomorrow, after reinstalling the whole cooling system.
:woot: my first car, my very first "mechanic" experience... before that I only had two oil changes and an air filter change under my belt. Feel accomplished now.
 
#73 ·
Nicker-great job on details, required tools, and process steps! Your information helped me finally rid my wife's car of the "service engine soon" light due to the CCV. For all you other researchers out there-my codes were P0171 & P0174 with occassional P0313. One last note, be cautious when trying to install and uninstall the CCV lines that you do not disconnect the Fuel Tank vent line from under the intake! This was nightmare on locating where it was to connect and actually getting to it! The line runs under the intake and comes up directly above the intake manifold support from block. There is an elbow for vacuum line to master cylnder and the fuel tank vent line connection-which is directly behind it and close to engine block. Very difficult to find and push the
line on so...don't let it disconnect.
Thanks again Nicker -You the man!
 
#75 ·
#76 · (Edited)
First off I wanted to say thanks a million for this one, I was having some VERY intermittent problems which I was inclined to believe was my CCV and this DIY made replacing it a lot less work than I had expected. I will list the problems I was having and some TIPS I would suggest at the end.
These are the problems I was experiencing although they were all VERY intermittent:
1. Smoking at startup after sitting overnight (or any extended period of time more than a few hours)
2. Car would not hold idle starting in the morning cold mornings.
3. Randomly while driving the car would lose power, When the accelerator would be pressed you could feel hesitation in the engine sputtering and smoking on take offs. (This one was the most random sometimes would go a week or two and not happen then twice in a week or twice in a day it would Happen)
4. Car would stall randomly while driving
I first started looking into vacuum leaks when I was experiencing these problems, I noticed a cracked hose coming from the CCV to the Oil Dipstick so I replaced this hose and the problems subsided a week or so (Although they were so intermittent to begin with this was almost normal)
After finally deciding that I had to do something about the problem and reading some post on this Forum, I decided I should replace the CCV. Glad I did, This job took me 2.5hrs to remove and 1.5hrs to reinstall. I cleaned the DISA and Throttle Body while they were off and also replaced the two hoses coming off of the Middle Air Intake Duct. So my total time was 5hrs, and this included a trip to BMW Parts Dept. for the return hose/valve cover hose and a Bojangles Lunch Break.

My Tips for a Smooth DIY:
I would swap steps 8 and 9 during removal and reinstallation. Removing the heat shield before the Oil Dipstick guide tube makes it easier to turn/jerk lightly on the Dipstick Guide tube to enable its removal.
If you are REPLACING the CCV and hoses not trying to save any, Cut the hoses and u can break the CCV at the Small Part between chambers and save about 20mins on removal. If not remember the Connecting hose is NOT a snap on connection its a 1/4 connection!!!
When reinstalling the Oil separator DO NOT ATTACH THE OIL SEPERATOR to the engine until after first attaching the Connecting hose pictured in Photo 7 or 8. This hose is NOT a snap on connection; it is a 4 turn connection. It is easiest to put this hose on by holding the CCV in your right hand in the position it will be mounted and holding the Connecting Hose in your left hand with the engine side facing the Ceiling, press the hose onto the CCV and turn this hose clockwise until the tip has turned ¼ turn and is now facing you. This is easier than trying to make the connection after the CCV is reattached and risking breaking the Old Brittle Hose or a New Hose from over stressing the Joint.

Be patient, the whole project is in a knuckle busting tight area. Be sure to clean the wire connections prior to reinstalling them, the ones on the front of the engine behind the radiator fan etc. are prone to dirt/grime.
 
#195 · (Edited)
If you are REPLACING the CCV and hoses not trying to save any, Cut the hoses and u can break the CCV at the Small Part between chambers and save about 20mins on removal. If not remember the Connecting hose is NOT a snap on connection its a 1/4 connection!!!
When reinstalling the Oil separator DO NOT ATTACH THE OIL SEPERATOR to the engine until after first attaching the Connecting hose pictured in Photo 7 or 8. This hose is NOT a snap on connection; it is a 4 turn connection. It is easiest to put this hose on by holding the CCV in your right hand in the position it will be mounted and holding the Connecting Hose in your left hand with the engine side facing the Ceiling, press the hose onto the CCV and turn this hose clockwise until the tip has turned ¼ turn and is now facing you. This is easier than trying to make the connection after the CCV is reattached and risking breaking the Old Brittle Hose or a New Hose from over stressing the Joint.
I just finished this job. My '01 330i wouldn't start and there were no codes. Right before it stopped working, it had started idling very roughly. I had fuel and spark so I suspected a large intake leak. There was a lot of oil under the CCV so it was my prime suspect. After this repair, the car runs great. The instructions in this thread were invaluable and better than the ones on bavauto. I have just one thing to add:

The above discussion about the 1/4 turn connection is a red herring. It's true that you need a quarter turn to disconnect the hose. However, reconnecting is simply push-on. I figured this out after wrestling with it for 20 minutes trying to do it in the manner discussed above. All you have to do is position the CCV, and then push the hose on. You can verify this with the parts off the car before installing them.

Hope this helps somebody!
 
#77 ·
Some additional tips: lubricate the connections on the oil seperator really well before installing the hoses. Make sure not to pinch the seals or o-rings when installing those hoses onto the oil seperator. If you do, you will get a vacuum leak (like I did). also, save ALL of the parts that you pull out so in case anything goes wrong, a mechanic can have an idea of what might be going on in there. It really helped when I had my mechanic diagnose my self-imposed vacuum leak. Of course had i lubed up my connections better, I would not have had this problem. I would also echo the advice of previous DIYers to take photos throughout the process and make notes as to where certain hoses were placed. Definitely make bags for each section with the parts and label them. This will save you time. It seems like a big repair, but if you tackle it in small sections, you'll get there and know your car inside and out. I noticed a couple other items that were leaking while I was in there so I was able to fix those as well. normally those areas would not have been accessible so try to kill a couple projects with one wrench. Enjoy
 
#79 ·
Thank you OP & everyone else who has contibuted. I have been putting this off for a while. I had a VGC oil leak & did that plus the vanos seal in the fall with the hopes that that was my only issue. Now that the warmer eather is coming I deperately need to do this as the symptoms are getting stronger.

I have purchased the ccv & houses through www.bimmerspecialists.ca after reading through this diy :

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=536123

but now that I have read through this one a couple nights ago I have put the job off for another week so I can purchase some additional items:

***8226; 13541435627 Air Intake Boot; Lower 1 12.43
***8226; 11431740045 O-Ring Oil Dip Stick Tube to Oil Pan 1 0.70
***8226; 11611716174 Throttle Housing Gasket 1 4.92

Thank you again for all the little details.

btw - some other links just for reference ...

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=643639<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=773551<o:p></o:p>
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=323335 (same OP info, differnt forum)
http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/thread.jspa?threadID=9267&tstart=60<o:p></o:p>
 
#80 ·
Needless to say that I am a slug & I have not yet done this DIY.

I did find a six part series on youtube that may be helpful to some:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axFTZp9uMKc
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>

I have one question: Has anyone found a need to replace the Rubber Grommet between the ICV and the Intake Manifold?
My Bentley book recommends it.

It's item # 10 in the pic - 1161 1437 453

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EV33&mospid=47720&btnr=11_2879&hg=11&fg=40

 
#82 ·
Steve, i replaced the grommet for $10 and i figured for $10, after spending a day pulling it apart and $300 in other parts, why the heck not!? When I pulled the grommet (mine was on a 328ci and it looked more like a snorkel), it was not worn at all. I really did not need to replace it. But, I was trying to fix a long term issue so I was not taking any chances. It was not easy to get out. I had to pull for awhile to get it lose. Plus, if you open up the car and you need a grommet, then you have to wait while the part arrives. I doubt this is something even a dealer stocks.
 
#84 ·
I called the dealer yesterday & they didn't have one but they were able to order it in for me from the warehouse overnight. I picked it up today.

$39.95 CDN + 13% tax

And yes, it looks like a snorkel. I was a little worried since the Bentley doesn' t show it that way. Thank you for making the comment. Now I know I have the correct part.
 
#86 ·
Does anyone know if the CCV can be accessed by removing the Oil Filter housing? Or do you need to get the throttle body out to access the CCV bolts? Just wondering because I'm about to do the Oil Filter housing gasket and was thinking that if it was easily accessible I would change the CCV as well. If I have to pull the throttle body I will, but I may leave that for another day if I can't access it with the OFH out.

Thanks
 
#87 ·
I did CCV project and then, later, replaced the OFH gasket (2 projects). By taking the OFH body off you'll have more room. However, I can't say that this is an alternate way to do the CCV without removing the throttle body. I recall that the throttle body has to come off in order to get to the dipstick guide tube to replace the o-ring. Here's a pic:
 

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#89 ·
Great info OP! Did the separator/hoses/DISA and cleaned the ICV and MAF today. Took about 5hrs total. Having the car on ramps really saved my back. BavAuto video was helpful in understanding how to deal with the 1/4 turn piece. Very satisfying to get this job out of the way.

BK
 
#90 ·
So when replacing the oil seperator, is it a common cause for a later oil leak? I bought my car not too long ago and the dealer said they had just replaced the PVC valve which I have read is the same thing as the OS, and I have recently noticed a small oil leak. I have cleaned up my car nice and I think it is coming from a bad oil housing filter gasket. I put in half a quart every 2 weeks or so, and it only leaks when I drive it.
 
#93 ·
Possible damage to engine???

Two days ago, I was driving my car (2004 325Ci) down the road and suddenly had the 'check engine' light come on. My car immediately had a rough idle and was so bad that the car was nearly shaking. I read numerous posts on here concerning rough idle and found one that suggested the DISA and ICV needed to be cleaned. I removed the CAI, MAF, DISA and ICV from the car and cleaned them all with appropriate products. Not thinking, I started the engine with all these parts REMOVED. The engine barely turned over...then roared up loud...then there was a very loud 'pop' (like a miny explosion)...I believe a spark/flame shot out from under the hood...and then the engine shut off. All this occured in the span of about two seconds. I immediately freaked out and was sure that I'd just blown my engine. I carefully re-installed all the parts, (prayed) and then started the engine again. It started up fine and there weren't any codes/services lights on. I have not had any further problems, but am paranoid that there might be some unseen damage that occurred during the 'explosion'...to the engine itself of maybe to my plugs and/or ignition coils. I would really appreciate any feedback on what might have caused said 'explosion' and/or what damage might have been done. Thanks!
 
#94 ·
CCV, DISA, ICV, Oil Seperator

In my opinion, what I think you saw/heard was exactly what your engine does! It produces "explosion" of air/fuel mixture and with your DISA and other items off-this exhausted through the intake (possible valves not fully seated). If the car is running and not showing any signs, I would think you are okay.
What was the codes thrown when the engine light came on? If you didn't capture it-how did you know what to start cleaning? My guess-with rough idle would be inspect the DISA for worn or brken vane. It is notorious for failure as you read threads and can cause a rough idle when failing. Always capture codes first-it can tell you where and possible what the problem is! Its a DIY's dream tool!
 
#95 · (Edited)
just completed this over the last 2 days, I would say it takes around 5-6 hours and a lot of this time is taking things apart leaning how they work.

The top hose only took about 3 mins maybe less to connect, Bolt the CCV in place 1st, feed the pipe through and then get your hand in there and push it on as hard as you can until you hear a click. Job done! Its not as bad as it may seem.

If your worried about taking on this DIY, don't. If you can take of a bolt you can do this DIY, it is a little scary in regards to the amount of equipment your taking off the car but just label everything, keep some notes on what connections are what and you will be fine.

The part numbers for my 1999 328iSE Saloon (EURO EHD) was:

PRESSURE REGULATING VALVE 11617501566
Vent pipe 11611432559
Connecting Line 11611440317
Lover Vent Hose 11157532649
Return Pipe 11157520035
Vacume Hose Long 11727545323

Accelerator Cable 35411166204
throttle boady gasket 11611716174
Lower Intake Boot 13541435627

Just as a note I would recommend doing an oil and filter change, I had 1000's of small bits of plastic that had come from the broken CCV/Hoses, best to get everything nice and clean again.
 
#96 ·
I started this project over the weekend even though I did not have the parts yet. I just wanted to make sure I took my time cleaned everything really well and let it all dry before reassembly. I got all my parts today and am really happy I went with the level two oil seperator kit. I live in wisconsin so I got the cold weather kit, and all the extra padding on the hoses couldn't hurt. here a couple of links. If doing this gasket I highly recomend doing this as well if your budget allows. As for my project, everything is going back together quite well other than I ripped the o-ring for the dip stick and the cold weather ccv was a really tight fit. also I am waiting on a torque wrench so progress is halted. I am just thankful I have the oprortunity to take my time as I am learning so much about these cars.

here are the links, PLEASE MAKE SURE TO CHECK REAL OEM AND CROSS REFERENCE PART NUMBERS FOR YOUR SPECIFIC MODEL!!!!!

M54 Oil Separator Kit - Level 2
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-325i-M54_2.5l/Engine/Emission/Oil_Separator/ES1905407/



M54 Oil Separator Kit - Level 2 (COLD CLIMATES VERSION)
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-325i-M54_2.5l/Engine/Emission/Oil_Separator/ES1905414/
 
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