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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 03-17-2017, 04:12 PM   #21
M Rated
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and for numbers with s52 cam here you go -



the car in this video is a stock 2.8 with s52 cams and turner motorsports software. the dyno shows almost 30hp gain from 2.8 stock numbers.
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Old 03-17-2017, 04:19 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by M Rated View Post
and for numbers with s52 cam here you go -



the car in this video is a stock 2.8 with s52 cams and turner motorsports software. the dyno shows almost 30hp gain from 2.8 stock numbers.
It shows nothing of the sort. It lacks baseline runs.

That said, when doing dyno runs for testing purposes, there are a LOT of variables that one must work hard at negating. Even things as simple as how you strap the car down and fluid temps can change dyno results.
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Old 03-17-2017, 04:37 PM   #23
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look there's plenty of m52b28's (e36 and e46 chassis) making more than 300hp w/o increased displacement or forced induction, thats a fact. Dont believe me, research and find out for yourself.
What reality do you live in???

There is a NA E46 non-m race car somewhere in the world that is running ITB's and it had a motor build cost ($$$$$$$$$$$$) to the moon, this one of a kind bmw was NOT streetable in any way. If this is the car you're referencing that broke the 300 + WHP number on a NA 3L E46 engine, you're smoking the funny stuff.

And JFYI, building a max HP NA build cost much more than FI. So your argument is worthless.
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Old 03-17-2017, 05:18 PM   #24
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look there's plenty of m52b28's (e36 and e46 chassis) making more than 300hp w/o increased displacement or forced induction, thats a fact. Dont believe me, research and find out for yourself.
Just no.


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Old 03-17-2017, 05:28 PM   #25
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look there's plenty of m52b28's (e36 and e46 chassis) making more than 300hp w/o increased displacement or forced induction, thats a fact. Dont believe me, research and find out for yourself.
even if this were possible it sure isn't happening for under $1,500 that the OP said is out of his budget on his M52TUB28.
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Old 03-17-2017, 06:44 PM   #26
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I know there are plenty of posts on this forum already about people trying to get more power out of an N/A engine. I have a 323i with a 328i engine (don't ask me why I did that, I was stupid) and want more power.
People's opinions change constantly on what is safe to do to your car in order to increase HP. I'm going to start with a injen short ram air intake because that's around a 10 hp gain supposedly. Plus it rains a lot in my area, so don't wanna go for the longer cold air intake.
I have no muffler.
Those are the only two things I've thought of so far. What are some suggestions you guys might have for decent HP gains? I don't want to turbo and kill my engine, plus don't have $1500 laying around for a decent kit before install and tune.
Once again, the only reason why I started this thread is because I feel like people experiment a lot and figure out safer ways to gain HP/Torque daily.

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1. No hate for an engine swap. Actually that was probably the most hp per $ you could get.
2. LOL at 10 hp from an intake. Not gonna happen.
3. LOL at $1500 for a "decent" turbo kit

Anyway, there is no cost effective way to get significant power from an NA engine. If you think $1500 is a lot, then you won't get getting anything at all. I suggest you settle for what you have or get another car with a more powerful engine.
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Old 03-19-2017, 04:03 AM   #27
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This thread got kind of hostile lol. I did not intend to start such a debate. I just want to make the basic improvements in order to get the most out of my stock engine. I don't need 300+ horsepower anyway, I find it kind of silly. It's hard to utilize even the >200 hp of the stock engine, why would I want 300. With that being said, I just want some improved acceleration and lower rpm performance.

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Old 03-19-2017, 04:12 AM   #28
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Already on the wrong path. More in a bit.



I'm gonna call BS on that one. You're suggesting 50-60bhp from a intake manifold and camshaft and CAI? Unless you can supply multiple reliable dyno runs (a good operator can skew dyno results if they know what they are doing) I absolutely call BS.

I've built a money no object NA street engine and don't believe these numbers to be real for even a second.



I know, right?

OP...

Air filters and short intake pipes will do nothing but lighten your wallet and make your car louder. Removing the muffler is another placebo.* And for the love of God, don't remove your cats except possibly if you run a header (mainly because nobody makes a header for the E46 with close coupled cats that I know of). Cats don't rob power either, although the close coupled cats do restrict the length of header tubing, but that's another story since this doesn't exist for the E46 (so far as I've ever seen).

Power comes from improving the breathing of the engine. Unlike common thinking, there are no real restrictions in the stock system that matter. In fact, air restriction is a red herring. Period. I've seen a YouTube where they did a dyno test, denting in one or two header tubes more and more between tests and they had to almost close off the header tube to get any real reduction in power. Don't waste your time and money chasing phantom air restrictions.

So, how do you improve breathing? Resonance tuning. That is how headers work and that is what makes a long-tube CAI work. That said, the people making them have to a) know what they are doing and b) test results of various iterations on a dyno.

I know of zero documented tests showing improvements from a long-tube CAI ([edit] for our cars - I've seen plenty for other cars). That said, I know for a fact AEM designs theirs on a dyno (I've described this process several times before and this is getting long, so if you want to know details, search).

Real gains are going to come from headers (remember, these are illegal and makes your car a polluter because they eliminate the cats). You should be able to make a little power from a long-tube CAI, but no proven performers yet (and the variable intake lengths on our cars complicate this matter). A retuned ECU (DME) will net some power. There are a few choices, e.g. Dinan, Shark Injector (I'm sure there are a few more). From there it gets expensive as real gains will now come from the cylinder head and camshafts. Any camshafts for our cars that I've seen are pretty expensive, but good cams like Schrick should make reliable power (I've yet to see dyno tests).

That about covers NA.

You could go nitrous. That is at least proven, although you're limited to what you have in the bottle.

After that, forced induction is the only other way to see serious gains.

*Note regarding making your car louder... IMHO, you may think it's cool, but really? On the way home yesterday I shared the road with a Mustspank that was louder than hell, but what was funny was that for all the noise, it really wasn't getting out of its own way. To me it looked and sounded stupid. It's amazing to me the number of cars (typically, but not always domestics) that are loud but NOT fast. ROTFLMAO. It may sound cool to you, but IMHO, be cool and have a little more self-respect. YMMV. Your car. Your life. Just trying to give it to you real.

BTW, I'm not for a second saying more power cannot be made. Racers do it all the time. It's just hard and very expensive to make meaningful gains. Racers (building to a rule book) must do ALL that they can because the next guy will. But for a road car, our cars especially, the dollar trade-off just isn't generally worth it.

Glad you asked?
Removing the muffler was one of those things I did as a newer owner of the car. It was probably a childish mistake, but I love listening to the car as I rev it up in the tunnels near my house. The best part about it is that removing the muffler didn't make it significantly louder. It's actually a really nice deep sound. With that being said, I don't know if I lost power doing this cheap change.
Is a CAI or short ram intake not worth it? My airbox is kinda messed up at the moment and I just wanted to replace it and clean the area up. If it's wiser to go with a stock box, I'll do that.
I've thought about an ECU flash, will look into that further. I guess I'll just settle with what I have for now.
Really appreciate the help. And once again I apologize for the behavior of the other member. I really don't like when my threads turn into attacking debates.

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Old 03-20-2017, 07:41 AM   #29
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This thread got kind of hostile lol. I did not intend to start such a debate. I just want to make the basic improvements in order to get the most out of my stock engine. I don't need 300+ horsepower anyway, I find it kind of silly. It's hard to utilize even the >200 hp of the stock engine, why would I want 300. With that being said, I just want some improved acceleration and lower rpm performance.

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I'll repeat myself -- read a few threads on diff upgrades! Buy one the boneyard. Relatively short money and should deliver exactly what you indicate you're looking for, " improved acceleration and lower rpm performance." Effective Horse power upgrades are cool but pricey! And they also require a lot of care and feeding. Diff swap done properly should be plug and play!

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Old 03-20-2017, 12:15 PM   #30
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I'll repeat myself -- read a few threads on diff upgrades! Buy one the boneyard. Relatively short money and should deliver exactly what you indicate you're looking for, " improved acceleration and lower rpm performance." Effective Horse power upgrades are cool but pricey! And they also require a lot of care and feeding. Diff swap done properly should be plug and play!
I'll check it out. You mean swapping the diff to a LSD?

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Old 03-20-2017, 01:09 PM   #31
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I'll check it out. You mean swapping the diff to a LSD?

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While that is an option (rather pricey, won't find one in a junkyard) that's not what he's referencing.

Increasing your final drive ratio will effectively give you more usable torque. Better acceleration, etc.

Edit: This may only be of use provided you have a manual. I believe manuals came with 2.91 and 3.08 final drives, while automatic coupes and convertibles came with 3.38 and 3.46 final drives, respectively. If you already have an auto, you probably won't see much of a difference with a diff swap.

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Old 03-20-2017, 03:41 PM   #32
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While that is an option (rather pricey, won't find one in a junkyard) that's not what he's referencing.

Increasing your final drive ratio will effectively give you more usable torque. Better acceleration, etc.

Edit: This may only be of use provided you have a manual. I believe manuals came with 2.91 and 3.08 final drives, while automatic coupes and convertibles came with 3.38 and 3.46 final drives, respectively. If you already have an auto, you probably won't see much of a difference with a diff swap.

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I do have an auto. I'll look into it further. I wish I knew how to drive a manual, would have switched to the m3 a long time ago.

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Old 03-20-2017, 04:03 PM   #33
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I do have an auto. I'll look into it further. I wish I knew how to drive a manual, would have switched to the m3 a long time ago.

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Everyone has to learn at some point! I've only known how to drive manual for not even two years now, and I still don't have much experience.

SMG isn't a bad choice for an M3, if you're still considering one. But for your 328i, if you want more power I'd recommend catless headers, maybe an intake (see Dinan long tube) an electric fan swap, power pulleys and a tune (shark injector / Dinan). Granted, on the best day that'll maybe make 20 horsepower, but it'll make the car a lot more enjoyable! Then manual swap when you're feeling up to it. Hands down best way to make these cars more fun without F/I.

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Old 03-21-2017, 02:42 PM   #34
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Everyone has to learn at some point! I've only known how to drive manual for not even two years now, and I still don't have much experience.

SMG isn't a bad choice for an M3, if you're still considering one. But for your 328i, if you want more power I'd recommend catless headers, maybe an intake (see Dinan long tube) an electric fan swap, power pulleys and a tune (shark injector / Dinan). Granted, on the best day that'll maybe make 20 horsepower, but it'll make the car a lot more enjoyable! Then manual swap when you're feeling up to it. Hands down best way to make these cars more fun without F/I.

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I can't do a CAI because I live in Southern Alabama and it literally rains every few days here. I've read online that there's a risk about sucking water into your intake if you drive into a puddle. There's puddles here everywhere, I'd rather not do it. I'd rather go with a short ram intake, like the injen one or maybe a K&N.
Apart from that, converting to a manual sounds like a pain? Wouldn't you rather just buy a manual? Why go through the hassle of turning an automatic into a manual?

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Old 03-21-2017, 03:35 PM   #35
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I can't do a CAI because I live in Southern Alabama and it literally rains every few days here. I've read online that there's a risk about sucking water into your intake if you drive into a puddle. There's puddles here everywhere, I'd rather not do it. I'd rather go with a short ram intake, like the injen one or maybe a K&N.
Apart from that, converting to a manual sounds like a pain? Wouldn't you rather just buy a manual? Why go through the hassle of turning an automatic into a manual?

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What part of Southern Alabama? I'm originally from Birmingham, and my dad used to make work trips to Bay Minette so we frequented that area when I was younger.

Anyways, in regards to a long tube CAI, driving through puddles or rain really isn't going to affect you that much. You'll only have to worry about hydrolocking your motor if you drive through a "6+ puddle for more than a second, and even then that can be remedied by fitting a bypass valve farther up on the intake. (think sucking through a straw with a hole in the middle, you won't get any drink up)

A lot of guys around here go with the manual swap because it's easier to keep your mods on your own car instead of taking them off and then selling, and then you don't have the piece of mind on your maintenance and what not. Plus we all get pretty attached to our cars. I personally couldn't ever sell mine because I know it's been well maintained, and I'd be hard pressed to find another E46 kept up as well as mine has been for the price I got it. So I'd rather manual swap than risk buying a car that I don't know much about. Plus manual transmissions are cheap and common, since someone is always parting out their car.

The manual swap is likely a pain, but there are two very well written DIY's that I know of here for the 5 and 6 speed swaps, and a whole community always willing to help out with questions. You could get it done in a week (or a very busy weekend) easy provided you have the wrenching skills and proper tools / knowledge.

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Old 03-21-2017, 04:30 PM   #36
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Aventador, go buy a zhp auto 3.64 diff on ebay for $250 or less total. This will give you a 5.4% increase over what you now have, you will need to swap over the flanges, not a big deal.
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Old 03-23-2017, 01:05 AM   #37
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Aventador, go buy a zhp auto 3.64 diff on ebay for $250 or less total. This will give you a 5.4% increase over what you now have, you will need to swap over the flanges, not a big deal.
How harsh is this swap? I can look it up but everything looks easy online. What about for a newbie?

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Old 03-23-2017, 01:11 AM   #38
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What part of Southern Alabama? I'm originally from Birmingham, and my dad used to make work trips to Bay Minette so we frequented that area when I was younger.

Anyways, in regards to a long tube CAI, driving through puddles or rain really isn't going to affect you that much. You'll only have to worry about hydrolocking your motor if you drive through a "6+ puddle for more than a second, and even then that can be remedied by fitting a bypass valve farther up on the intake. (think sucking through a straw with a hole in the middle, you won't get any drink up)

A lot of guys around here go with the manual swap because it's easier to keep your mods on your own car instead of taking them off and then selling, and then you don't have the piece of mind on your maintenance and what not. Plus we all get pretty attached to our cars. I personally couldn't ever sell mine because I know it's been well maintained, and I'd be hard pressed to find another E46 kept up as well as mine has been for the price I got it. So I'd rather manual swap than risk buying a car that I don't know much about. Plus manual transmissions are cheap and common, since someone is always parting out their car.

The manual swap is likely a pain, but there are two very well written DIY's that I know of here for the 5 and 6 speed swaps, and a whole community always willing to help out with questions. You could get it done in a week (or a very busy weekend) easy provided you have the wrenching skills and proper tools / knowledge.

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Going through the pain of the manual swap isn't likely for me. I'll actually just switch to the m3 if that is what I want. I love my car so it's not likely I'll ever leave it. But I might get another on the side since my love for E46 is growing.
I'm from Chicago, but I've lived in Mobile Alabama for 8 years or so. Bay Minette isn't far from here.

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Old Yesterday, 08:41 AM   #39
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1. U can buy m54b25 intake manifold and just instal it, u will get small gains.
2. U can buy full m54b30 intake, manifold, intake cam(optional), maf, ecu, get your ecu tuned and car will run better than ever for not such big money.
3. Do turbo
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Old Yesterday, 11:39 AM   #40
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