Icv sticks after cleaned

Originally Posted by dmax

Um...PB Blaster is a penetrating, rust dissolving solvent, and I don't think it's intended as a lubricant...though I do think the same company makes a lubricant...be careful what you get. I'd go to an auto parts shop and tell them what you want to lubricate. That said, I just cleaned mine really well...using 1.5 cans of cleaner, and it's been fine now for maybe 3 years. Sounds like it's beginning to want another cleaning, so I'll get to that one of these warmer days...and then use lubricant too.

What'd you use?

Originally Posted by dmax

The oiled filters, when overoiled, foul the maf. If you can use a dry filter, you'll eliminate that as a possible issue...just spray your maf clean with maf cleaner after shifting to paper.

Lower intake boot is most common air leak...but there are many vac lines too. See under cabin air filter housing behind mani for some of the hidden ones too.

You can 'smoke' test diy by spraying carb cleaner around...you'll hear the engine rev a bit when you find a leak sight...it'll suck the cleaner into the intake...might help you isolate possible location before tearing stuff apart.

thanks, I have cleaned maf multiple times to no avail, it was also replaced six months ago along with vacuum tubing, DISA, camshaft position sensor, k and n filter, ICV, CCV and hoses. TB was also cleaned. I did find a vacuum leak in the manifold where the hose going to the vacuum canister in the exhaust was not connected, I plugged it up and this fixed the e3, e4 O2 sensor adaptation limits I was getting and gas mileage has improved. However, limp mode persists and the only codes with peake I have on my car is the recurring d3 ICV and f5, f6 secondary oxygen which I believe has nothing to do with the ICV. Btw, f5,f6 I diagnosed to bad solenoid which is on it's way. I don't have a lower intake boot, my system is completely different. I don't have any major leaks, I have inspected everything and carb cleaner does not pickup minor ones. A smoke test will be like $80 or so. My next step is checking the car with the pa soft 1.4 I just ordered after having used the peak tool I have. Also, cleaning the new ICV I bought 4 months ago, maybe it gunked up somehow. Then smoke test at AA autowerks, a bmw tuner shop

So I presume the icv was OE...don't know what f5 f6 secondary oxygen, is, but maybe that will help you with your idle issues. Love your sig!

Originally Posted by dmax

So I presume the icv was OE...don't know what f5 f6 secondary oxygen, is, but maybe that will help you with your idle issues. Love your sig!

What'd you use to clean your icv?

Ah, at the time I think I used parts cleaner...later heard carb cleaner was better. I used a can and a half from every angle I could think of. I have not lubricated it as I said, but 3 years later, I need to get down there and clean it again I think. My mechanic also says it should be lubed...not wd40 though...sorry wd40 fans...I read and believe what I read here once...that there's always something better for a particular application.

Happy New Years!

Originally Posted by trentcdrums

What'd you use to clean your icv?

I would use throttle body cleaner. IMO both carb cleaner and brake parts cleaner could be too aggressive for the stuff down the line (though many people have used both successfully). WD40 just doesn't make sense for cleaning.

Terra, the wd40 was discussed as a lubricant, not cleaner.

Now that you mention it, I might have used TB cleaner for the ICV. I have too many posts to see what I used, as it was a while back, but have since learned that brake/parts cleaner is very aggressive, so wouldn't ever use that on anything like disa, icv, tb, or anything electronic.

I don't know what lubricant would be best, and I can't imagine that any spray would really last for a particularly long time with air getting blown over it constantly.

The car did it again the other say. so I went and bought seafoam and PB blast, which one do you suggest that would work best.

Lunch bump

Originally Posted by trentcdrums

The car did it again the other say. so I went and bought seafoam and PB blast, which one do you suggest that would work best.

You have another problem. If you cleaned your icv properly it wouldn't be sticking so soon.
Clean it with tb cleaner.

how clean the icv??

Originally Posted by peytonracer4

You have another problem. If you cleaned your icv properly it wouldn't be sticking so soon.
Clean it with tb cleaner.

I cleaned it with carb cleaner, and lubricated it with WD-40. So I will use PB blast next time it does this. Maybe just wanted to act funny, because it has been a few days and it has not done it since. Thank you

Originally Posted by trentcdrums

I cleaned it with carb cleaner, and lubricated it with WD-40. So I will use PB blast next time it does this. Maybe just wanted to act funny, because it has been a few days and it has not done it since. Thank you

PB Blaster is used to dissolve rust and I don't think it's good as a lubricant. TB cleaner is a cleaner, and I've heard it said that it has a lubricant built into it.

I've got a bad feeling about using pb blaster on the icv.

Originally Posted by dmax

PB Blaster is used to dissolve rust and I don't think it's good as a lubricant. TB cleaner is a cleaner, and I've heard it said that it has a lubricant built into it.

I've got a bad feeling about using pb blaster on the icv.

I could not find fb cleaner..

Originally Posted by trentcdrums

I could not find fb cleaner..

Trent,

AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, etc. all have tb cleaner available in IL. I got tb/maf/Brakleen/Seafoam Deep Creep cans from Advance's website (they usually have a % off sale and are the cheapest), then picked it up at the local store.

i feel like that being a lubricated part with wd-40 would attract and stick dirt to it more/quicker.